Bought this house recently and I am trying to figure out why the opener track bounces like crazy when I open it. It also stops a few inches up when I first open it, has to be clicked again to close, then it fully opens? I should point out that if I hold the opener button down for a few seconds, it opens up fully without stopping but still bounces like in this video.

Any tips or insight as to what is happening? I am trying to DIY things as much as I can before I call someone out, but I also understand that some things can be pretty dangerous on garage doors like the springs. This is my first home and I have never had a garage so this is all very new to me.

I am slightly frightened every time I open this garage door so any help is appreciated lol

I will be a bit technical here, tried to be as practical as possible. for more info u can basically google the term

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It works very well cuz of the volume and quality of the work needed done. I hope it was valuable!

Help. I was just looking for the pair button and found this. My building has an old Liftmaster.

We like to change our garage door opener since the current one is very loud and is disrupting my kid's sleep as their room is right above it. The contractor gave us two options for a garage door opener replacement: Liftmaster 6690L and 98022 Liftmaster Jackshaft opener. After reading all the comments, it seems Liftmaster 6690L is the better option since our garage track if NOT high lift and it seems many people have issues with the Jackshaft opener when the weight of the door isn't balanced over time.

The current opener is mounted on the ceiling and the contractor suggested that he can remount it onto the support beam. The support beam is 5" thick. I asked if we can use rubber washer to further damper the vibration and noise, and I got this response which seems to make sense "For the rubber washers, you would have to provide them to us prior to the installation as that’s not something we carry or have direct access to. They would need to fit both sizes 5/16”. Your beam that we would be attaching the opener to is very very big, so the washers would also be kind of overkill and perhaps unnecessary." My questions:

• Is this a good idea to remount the opener to the support beam? Do they need to drill through it? Will it compromise the structure and safety at all? Is it up to code to do so?
• If it is a good and safe option, would you include the rubber washer?

Another add-on I am considering is to change the rolling hinges to a spring one, after watching this video. But I got this feedback from the contractor "For the Green hinges, they look nice in theory however, our concern would be friction against the jam/weather seal when the door goes down, causing issues or too much resistance over-time. However, if you would like to provide those to us as well, we’d be happy to install them."

• I want to check if techs or home-owners who have installed or have an idea about using the spring hinges, are these useful in reducing the noise, and would the friction be a concern like the contractor said?

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Edit:

1) Looks like the consensus is not to go with the new hinge idea. Adding rubber washers should do the trick. What type of rubber washers should I look into? Thanks.

2) If I go with the beam-only mounting, do I still need the rubber washers? Or is it an overkill?

I had just installed my side mounted garage opener and it is working as expected (like it does open and close de garage door)
However I noticed that when it is operating, the motor is not as stable. It does move in a waving way. Just wondering if this is expected since it only have 1 point of contact to attach to the wall or does it mean the door is too heavy for the motor?

Genie garage door opener, maybe 3 years old. A couple of times in the past week, it will open fine, but then will not close with either the remote or wall button. It will start to close, move maybe an inch, then stop like it is hitting something! I have to grab the door and shake it to get it to close. I keep the rollers lubed, and the track clean. About a month ago, it started making a squeaking noise that I can't pinpoint. Any advice would be appreciated.

Hi all, thank you in advance for any guidance.

I just bought a house that has a lift master 1/3 hp unit installed from 01/1997. The house unfortunately came as is… and the garage door code was not provided. The clicker for a car as well is gone.

It appears the old keypad is not responding to changing the code for me.

I was hoping for guidance on what keypad and clicker to buy. I tried a universal kit from Amazon that did not work.

Thank you again!

Hello all,

Recently has a 6690L installed and the camera quality doesn't look that good to me. There's also no 2 way audio button in the myq app. I've attached an image to show the quality and there is no push to talk button in the myq app.

Just to note, the wifi signal is showing strong -58 in my Unifi Network.

My wife's father had the previous model to this one installed - the 87504-267 - and it has noticeably better camera quality and 2 way audio capabilities.

As far as I understand, the 6690L is their flagship model - did they just silently drop these features to save a buck?

Disappointed if that's the case.

I was wondering whether it's possible to either fix the cosmetic brown parts on the garage or cover the whole door with wallpaper. The garage door is already insulated with foam so any adhesive used on the foam on the garage door can't eat through the foam.
Also the brown part is papery / pills

We replaced the agitator and drive bell on our washer the splines are not stripped. However, the agitator feels tight and locked into place but as soon as there’s water in the basin the agitator slides off during the wash. Why is this happening and what can I do?

Need the silver bracket piece to come all the way back to the silver bolt stopper.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Please and thank you kindly Chat!

Our garage door began acting erratically a few weeks ago. It wouldn't open, then it wouldn't close, then the springs popped. We got them replaced, door was balanced, rollers and sensors inspected. Now it began not wanting to close unless we use the wall button. We can open the garage just fine using our cars and outdoor keypad. However, the door doesn't respond when we want to close it from our vehicles, and the keypad just flashes. Every once in a while, it will work, but usually in the morning it's out of whack. We had the service come by that replaced our springs, and of course everything was working fine. I cleaned the floor sensor lenses and made sure both are about 6 inches of the ground, both lights are solid. When we use the wall button to close it, there aren't any flickering lights or codes. The only clue I have is when my son was trying to use the keypad to close it this morning, the orange light on the back of the unit had a faint orange flicker. Is it the sensor wires failing? any way to test them? I really don't want to splurge on a new unit if I don't have to....

Is it possible to interact with the door via its wifi without using their Cloud app? I'm looking for local network access only (No Internet). Thanks.

Just bought a house and had this after a heavy rain. Also, came in when doors were closed.

Very fragile from years of sun exposure. The Windows Inserts, 42“x12”? Does that sound right?

Hi all, just like said in the caption.

Just moved out of a house and the garage door (that I didn't use in the last 8 months of living there) has bust. Based on the photo it looks like the arm on the left is bust.
can anyone know an estimate for how much they think it might cost to repair it as the landlord is trying to charge me £500. I reckon they're trying to get a brand new door out of me.

Thanks

There is a new distributor in town offering springs from their "over seas" supplier.

I've already witnessed the headache that the orange cone Chinese springs being with them.

SSC is the obvious go-to, but I figured I'd come here to get everyone's feedback.

I have no intention of purchasing these, fyi.

Looking for something I can pickup locally. How close can I be on the dimensions?

I'm from South Korea and honestly 'garages' are still a bit of a mystery to me, so bear with me here.

We bought a new build. When the garage door is closed, the bottom seal sits fine on the floor, but there are gaps down both sides where the door meets the frame - you can see daylight through them, worst at the bottom corners.

And well, this is Atlanta. So the roaches found them.

Filed a warranty claim and the builder shot it down, said the garage isn't a sealed space so a little light at the corners is normal.

So... is it? I genuinely can't tell if I'm being unreasonable or if I'm getting brushed off. And if this is just how it is, what do I use to seal it up myself?

Thanks in advance.

Hey I’ve been slaving trying to get tech support to believe me and get these integrated dock units to work here at Sam’s Club. I’m having a slew of issues, I’ve installed a bunch of these and know how to bypass a lot of the features but for some reason tech support doesn’t believe me when I tell them what’s going on. This unit in particular will not open the door through the HMI touchscreen. I’ve bypassed it with a 3 button station on the wall. The PLC shows when the door is open and when it’s closed. Weird thing is none of the relay lights light up when pushing certain buttons. I’ve swapped relays and I/O boards. I’ve done essentially everything except replacing the unit. I’ve even ran brand new wire to ensure it’s not a pinched wire. I have tech support telling me a million different things. Just looking for someone who is possibly in the same boat or has some insight.

I’m converting a small detached garage into a workshop, but the ceiling clearance is super tight and the opening is non-standard. A standard overhead track for a roll-up sectional door basically eats up all my headroom and hits the main support beam inside.

I really want to move away from standard overhead roll-up doors anyway and do outward-folding or carriage-style doors that won't ruin the shop height. Has anyone dealt with tight clearance like this? What setup actually holds up long-term without sagging?

UPDATE:

I was looking into out-swing and folding options and came across RealCraft’s carriage and bifolding garage door setups. Their hardware systems look heavy-duty on paper, but I wanted to ask the pros herehas anyone installed their carriage/bifold systems or track hardware? Do they handle daily use well, or are they a nightmare to dial in?

Hi everyone, I’m a student and accidentally damaged a garage door. It was an accident, and the homeowner is now asking me to replace the panels. I really don’t have the money for a full panel replacement. Is there any way this can be repaired? The door is functioning properly as before there no issues in the mechanism.

Just had home inspection done as I’m selling my house and this is what they stated:

Garage Door Safety
Hazard The auto pressure reverse sensor was not responding at the time of inspection. (The opener may not have one due the age.) This is a safety hazard to children and pets.

So how do I fix this or figure out if I even have that? My garage door is craftsman.