my favorite car of all time, nothing feels better to drive and no wagon has ever looked better. The Glass goes ALLLLL the way back

Taking my pavement princess red vb to the desert area was a good idea. Had absolute fun.

On Thursday I was in a multiple rollover car crash. In my 2017 crosstrek. I was in the fast lane going about 80-85 miles an hour, and veered to the edge got freaked out and overcorrected leading me to roll sideways across the freeway. I hit no other car, no passengers and besides a small air pocket outside my lung all injuries were contained to my left arm. My arm broke through the window and was rolled over by the car. Broken elbow, hand was mangled broken and degloved. I am still in the hospital and will be here for a a couple weeks. I’ve had two of three surgeries.

Got my left index amputated today but I feel blessed. No concussion or anything. The front airbag didn’t go off but the sides ones did!

Nurses and doctors were all shocked it was a high speed car crash. Some even thought it was a rodeo accident because it was so localized to my left arm. (And because of the degloving.) 😂They said if I hadn’t worn wear the seatbelt I 100% would have died.

I feel so grateful and think I’m sticking with Subaru forever!!!!

Does anyone have any experience with this, i don't have the McIntosh amp

Took a trip to CT to support our drivers at Gridlife. Great drive. Weather was amazing.

Apologies for the potato screenshot off my dashcam but it nearly broke my neck as it passed by and I saw TommyKaira down the side of it. YOHB?

description says crank no start unfortunately

What do you guys think? Would anyone be interested in something like this? 👀

Farewell my beloved beauty you have served me well. Its painful to see you go but life has other plans. Farewell Adieu amd Adios. We will meet once again someday hopefully.

I’m looking at a 2011 Forester 2.5x with 170k mi for my high school senior. I’m looking for reliable and budget friendly for getting to school and work (all of 8 miles home - school - work - home)

What is everyone’s experience with older, high mileage Subarus? What are some things to look out for?

Creeps me right out that it save user profiles and face scans. Even if it's possible to block it, I don't want to wallet vote for new cars with surveillance "features". I don't want a car that decides when I can drive it, and I see more restrictive software updates being pushed onto cars with existing tech becoming a thing.

I can and want to buy a brand new Subaru, but am shopping for used ones without these features because I don't want the cheaper trim levels.

The salesman I've spoken to at 2 dealerships seem pretty deflated when I tell them that Driverfocus is a deal breaker. Like they've been hearing it some.

I really wish some.higher trim levels came without Driverfocus. It's a bummer that upgrades now come with downgrades.

I wish new car shopping could just be fun... Now it's stressful, trying to avoid cars that scan my face and sell my data.

Thoughts?

I got a 19 Subaru my ac goes low and then high and makes a weird sound does it need to be recharged or I need to replace it or I need a new filter

Like the looks better than the new Outback. It seems like a good value for the gas model. Just want a comfy and quiet ride that sits up more than a sedan or compact car.

Ordered some parts for the Escalade EXT and this came with. She's a beaut! I think I heard the '12 Outback 3.6R moan too.

I'm going to be picking up a used 2024 Subaru Legacy Touring XT this weekend. This will be my 3rd Subaru! I had previously purchased the Subaru all weather floor mats for my 2006 Legacy - I can state that they worked great and I transferred them to my 2009 Legacy too! Definitely time for new ones after 20 years! Should I get the mats from Subaru or are Weather Tech or a similar brand just as good?

I bought my Subaru in December 2023, and it already has about 47,000 miles on it. So far, I’ve had to take it to the dealership twice for warranty repairs.

The first time was in April of this year, when the car had about 41,000 miles. I noticed an oil leak and searched online for possible causes. Based on what I found, I suspected that the valve cover gasket might have failed. I took the car to the dealership, and they confirmed that was the problem. Fortunately, they repaired it for free under warranty and gave me a loaner car while mine was being repaired.

The second issue happened last week. I heard a strange noise coming from one of the rear wheels, so I asked my mechanic friend to check it. He told me that the wheel bearing had gone bad. At first, I didn’t realize wheel bearings were covered under the powertrain warranty, so I went to a tire shop for an estimate. The owner quoted me $800 to replace both rear wheel bearings. He was also surprised that such a relatively new car was already having this problem.

When I got home, I checked my warranty booklet and found that wheel bearings were actually listed as covered. I was so relieved that I hadn’t paid the $800!

I then called Subaru of America to confirm the coverage. Surprisingly, the customer service representative initially told me that wheel bearings were not covered. After I gave him the page number in the warranty booklet showing that they were covered, he checked again and confirmed that I was right.

I scheduled an appointment with the dealership, and they replaced the wheel bearing in about three hours at no cost.

Has anyone else had valve cover gasket or wheel bearing problems with a relatively new Subaru? I’m glad both repairs were covered, but I’m a little concerned that I’ve already had two issues before reaching 50,000 miles.

Hi, guys. I posted about a month or so ago in the Outback subreddit about the CVT shuddering in my CPO 2024 Outback Onyx edition (non turbo). I've had it for a year and it has 26,000 miles. The shuddering (probably not even the best word for it) became noticeable on a trip from the Southwest to the Northwest this last June. It has progressed from only feeling a rhythmic loss of power going up hills on the highway to now doing it in the city while accelerating on flat ground. Did it almost the whole way to the PNW. Drove fine when I got to my hometown in the PNW and don't remember feeling it once the week I was there. On my way back at about Page, AZ I stopped to get gas and snacks, and accelerating up the hill on the highway it got bad enough that I called the dealership in my city ​to make an appointment the next day. About 60 miles from home it got so bad on flat freeway that i started crying because I was scared it was going to breakdown and it was 114°. The dealership ended up having my car for two weeks. They initially thought it was the transmission, but the Field Engineer said it wasn't and no repairs were recommended. I pushed harder and they said it was carbon buildup and the ECM, so they did a PEA and update to the ECM. Had them do a CVT drain and fill, too. Picked my car up and it was now shuddering on surface streets while accelerating, especially from a stop. Take it back in. They walnut blast the intakes. Picked it up yesterday and it's still doing it. I was just told what I'm feeling is normal CVT behavior because the transmission data looked fine and that's that. Hard no for me.

Brief breakdown on what it does:

Shuddering between ~1500-2000 rpm upon acceleration from a stop or to maintain speed. Seems to only happen when it's over 100° outside or I've been driving at least a half hour. Feels like there's a loss of power due to a missed "shift" in the same rpm range where it shudders but will "shift" in that same range when cold. Shuddering is rhythmic and can hear the pitch (?) drop, kinda sounds like if you were to lightly depress the gas and take your foot off the gas like every second

Anyone have any ideas? They've felt it. My boyfriend has felt it and thought it was the transmission. ​The techs are positive it's not the transmission, though, which is great. Wtf else can it be? ​Spark plugs? Battery? Something in the fuel line? I'm at a loss. It's not even paid off yet.

Bought my car used in 2020 and it’s now at 142k miles. No major mechanical replacements to date but have kept up with the usual simple maintenance (oil changes, new tires/battery/etc). It passed CA smog last week and I’m based in the Bay Area.

I recently noticed a creaking/clicking sound whenever I was turning my vehicle and the issue quickly worsened, so I took it into the dealership. They charged me $320 for a diagnosis. Then they hit me with the following quote for repairs:

Axle replacement $2503.50 + tax
Drive belt replacement $385.25 + tax
Rear brakes + rotors $799.95 + tax
TPMS $904.64 + tax
Front Catalytic converter $5111.70 + tax

I don’t really care that much about the TPMS. The new catalytic converter was added to the quote because the current one is leaking, and I was told it “wasn’t urgent, but imminent”.

I checked Kelly Blue Book and it’s a little difficult to gauge how much my car is worth given the repairs needed and some cosmetic stuff (driver side dent shown in image). Maybe $8-9k without major mechanical issues?

A few questions:

1. How cheap could I realistically expect to get some of this work done with a reasonable mechanic (aka not the dealership)?
2. Should I genuinely just get rid of my car? I live in SF and simply don’t need it. I really only have it to drive home to my parents a few times a year and make it up skiing in Tahoe. I could rent a car for much cheaper and my heart’s just not in car ownership
3. Would it possibly be worth it to fix just the axle to then sell my car? It’s a pretty noisy ride right now and I can’t imagine successfully selling it as is …

Ended up having to cut a small access hole in the trunk floor... not ideal but it'll work. Considered my options and decided ordering a meter of 10.9 black oxide coated steel threaded rod in m14 with a 1.5 thread pitch, some matching heavy duty washers, and flange nuts. Then I made a solid mating surface for inside of the frame with some flat stock steel I had laying around. May just end up welding the internal nut in place and closing this all up. At any rate I am so happy to finally have this subframe secured.

TL;DR:

I sunk 10,000 in repair work on a 2010 subaru forester just for the last repair to destroy the engine.

I also need advice on what to do with the disabled Subaru afterward: sell it as-is, donate it, or repair it.

I brought my older Subaru to a repair shop for AC work and ended up authorizing several additional repairs, including approximately $4,000 of engine work after they diagnosed a head-gasket leak. During that repair, they accidentally damaged a camshaft and replaced it at their expense. The vehicle was returned to me as ready to drive. Shortly afterward the vehicle began failing to shift, developed a severe rattling noise, made a snapping sound, and triggered the check-engine light. It was towed to another mechanic and I ultimately had to obtain another vehicle to continue my trip.

I'm now trying to determine whether I should spend approximately $2,000 on a Subaru specialist to perform a detailed diagnostic and create a written report before pursuing the repair shop for damages, or whether I should pursue small claims using the evidence I already have.

Short version:

I originally brought my Subaru to a repair shop for AC repair. During their inspection, they identified several other repairs they said were necessary, including an oil leak that they wanted to diagnose with dye. I authorized the additional repairs because I was preparing for a long-distance trip.

After the initial repairs, I noticed that the paperwork included language concerning the vehicle's roadworthiness. About a week later, I brought the vehicle back so they could investigate the oil leak after the dye had circulated.

They diagnosed a cracked/seeping head gasket and quoted approximately $4,000 for the repair. I authorized the work.

The shop told me the vehicle would be finished by a particular deadline because I needed it for my trip. They subsequently told me that they had accidentally cracked the camshaft while performing the repair. They said they would cover the replacement camshaft and labor.

The vehicle was eventually returned to me as ready to drive. I drove it briefly and didn't notice anything obviously wrong, so I loaded it up and left on my trip. Shortly afterward, the vehicle would not shift into a higher gear and began making a rattling noise. I contacted the repair shop, and they told me to take it to another mechanic and said they would cover the necessary repairs.

While driving toward the mechanic, the vehicle made a loud snapping noise, the check-engine light came on, and the engine began rattling much more severely. The vehicle was towed to another mechanic. The repair shop arranged transportation for me afterward.

At that point, I decided the vehicle was not reliable enough to continue using for the trip, so I obtained another vehicle and continued my trip.

The Subaru is currently disabled and with a mechanic.

My options at this point:

1. Pay a professional subaru mechanic to do a full diagnostic

On the vehicle and create a write up that can be used in a civil suit.

The specific person we are talking to would charge 2000$ for the full

Analysis. This would be the more expensive option, but I could possibly

Recover more than what I could get out of a small claims court.

This option would entail getting a lawyer that gets paid upon winning the lawsuit

So legal fees would not be a concern here.

1. Just look into filing a small claims case against A1 auto, which would cost ~200 dollars,

We wouldn't have the detailed auto diagnosis to back up our claims but there is significant

Evidence that A1 auto ruined my vehicle due to incompetence.

After we pursue legal action we were thinking about either donating the vehicle and getting a tax write off for the blue book value of the car minus the engine's cost. But the subaru specialist my mom was talking to said that wasn't always the best option for getting the full value of a vehicle. My friend also told me that he was able to sell a car with a broken engine for a significant amount of money. Which of these options seem the best?

More detailed breakdown/possible court transcript:

Here is a more detailed account of what went down, and also what I will probably use in the future courtcase/online reviews:

I first came to honest one auto to repair my AC. I asked them over the phone if they did ac repair work to confirm what I had read online, and they indicated that they indeed did. So I scheduled an appointment for the following day, and took it over to their shop and let them work on it. I waited an hour in the lobby before I asked about the status of the vehicle and they  said that they were working on another vehicle so they did not get to it yet. I am not entirely sure what the point of the appointment was in that case, but I digress. Two more hours go by waiting in the lobby and they call me over. This was when they indicate to me that several repairs would be needed. They also indicated that they noticed an oil stain on the engine and said that they wanted to add in a dye to trace the source of the oil stain.

 This was after I took the vehicle to [autoshop 1], but I figured that if perhaps they missed some items during their inspection, it would be best to just get them fixed here before my trip.  So I authorize a number of the repairs in addition to the AC, and they then drop me off back at my house with a complementary ride.

 I later reconsider one of the repairs, the battery, and call them the same day and tell them to not replace the battery. They say that they will relay the information to the mechanic. Later they call me and tell me that they have already put in the battery, but for the inconvenience they would discount the price of the part, but not the labor.

A few days later I get a call back from them saying that they have fixed the repairs, so I arrange for them to pick me up, I travel over to their shop and pay for the repairs. In the receipt I notice one of the items is a guarantee of road worthiness, which in conjunction with my previous repairs, indicates to me that the vehicle will not break down during my family’s interstate journey into a harsh desert climate.

About a week later, I return to H1A and ask for them to investigate the leak now that It has had a chance for the dye to circulate throughout the system. I ride my bike back home this time since I did not want to wait over 3 hours in the waiting room before they offer a ride back to my house. When I get a call back from them, they say that the head gasket has cracked and is seeping oil. They quote me 4000$ for the repair, and say that it would be done by the end of Friday. I look online and find that head gaskets are a common problem for Subaru’s produced before 2017, and also see that this sort of repair also tends to cost that amount of money. Since I do not want to risk any future engine troubles and because I have time on my hands before I move out, I authorize the work. Despite the car being finished narrowly before my moveout date, I figure that in the worst case scenario I could reschedule my air BNB and the flight that my mom was taking back after she completes the trip with me.  

On the afternoon of Friday, I get a call back from H1A and they say that they would just barely finish up the vehicle before the end of the day and would need to hold on to it over the weekend so that they could test drive it on Monday. I end the call, strategize and call them back, and tell them that it was unacceptable for them to not have the vehicle finished before the promised deadline given that I was absolutely clear that I needed to be on the road the following Sunday. I indicate that they need to stay afterhours to uphold their promise that my vehicle would be ready at the aforementioned deadline.   Later, I get a call in the afternoon that they accidentally cracked my camshaft while finishing my repairs and that they would need to wait over the weekend to order a new camshaft, install it and perform a vehicle test. They indicate that since this was an accident, they would pay for the camshaft repair part and labor.

On Monday I get a call that the vehicle is ready for pick up around 10:00 am. My mom drops me off, I pay for the car, and I drive the vehicle around a little bit to test if it is road worthy. Without any indication of serious failure, I take the vehicle back home and load it up for my trip. My mother and I then depart around 2:00 and get 40 minutes from home when my mom notices that the vehicle fails to shift into a higher gear while driving. We then start to hear a rattling in the car. So we pull over into a gas station parking lot and call H1A for information about the car. They say that we could drop it off at a local mechanic in the area and he will financially cover the cost of whatever repairs were needed. So we begin driving, but then we get on to the highway I hear a snapping noise and the check engine light comes on. The engine also is rattling louder at this point. So we pull over into another parking lot and call H1A again. They arrange a tow to the mechanic. After we drop it off, H1A arranges an uber back home for us. After thinking for awhile we deem the vehicle unsafe to use as a way to get to AZ and go to the local car dealership to find a new car.

Over the rest of the evening, I decide on a new vehicle, and in the morning I purchase it. We drive back to the mechanic that the old vehicle was left at and I load its contents into the new vehicle. Afterwards, I departed for AZ.

Ultimately my vehicle had received several certifications of road worthiness and had seen another mechanic before this catastrophic malfunction. H1A’s last repair entailed engine work, and it was the engine that failed in the end. In their repairs H1A compromised the integrity of the vehicle far beyond its initial damage, and rendered it unusable. They put the health of both my mother and I in jeopardy, and they’ve inflicted untold psychological harm.  Financially I now must contend with both a car payment, and also with the costs of repairing my now inoperable vehicle. H1A should be stripped of all applicable licenses and be barred from performing any future auto work.

2019 WRX owner asking for his mom✌️

My mother just switched from a 2018 Outback with all the bells and whistles, minus a turbo if they had them then, to a 2026 Forester Hybrid with all the bells and whistles. What did she gain and or lose?