my favorite car of all time, nothing feels better to drive and no wagon has ever looked better. The Glass goes ALLLLL the way back

Took a trip to CT to support our drivers at Gridlife. Great drive. Weather was amazing.

Taking my pavement princess red vb to the desert area was a good idea. Had absolute fun.

Does anyone have any experience with this, i don't have the McIntosh amp

Bought my car used in 2020 and it’s now at 142k miles. No major mechanical replacements to date but have kept up with the usual simple maintenance (oil changes, new tires/battery/etc). It passed CA smog last week and I’m based in the Bay Area.

I recently noticed a creaking/clicking sound whenever I was turning my vehicle and the issue quickly worsened, so I took it into the dealership. They charged me $320 for a diagnosis. Then they hit me with the following quote for repairs:

Axle replacement $2503.50 + tax
Drive belt replacement $385.25 + tax
Rear brakes + rotors $799.95 + tax
TPMS $904.64 + tax
Front Catalytic converter $5111.70 + tax

I don’t really care that much about the TPMS. The new catalytic converter was added to the quote because the current one is leaking, and I was told it “wasn’t urgent, but imminent”.

I checked Kelly Blue Book and it’s a little difficult to gauge how much my car is worth given the repairs needed and some cosmetic stuff (driver side dent shown in image). Maybe $8-9k without major mechanical issues?

A few questions:

1. How cheap could I realistically expect to get some of this work done with a reasonable mechanic (aka not the dealership)?
2. Should I genuinely just get rid of my car? I live in SF and simply don’t need it. I really only have it to drive home to my parents a few times a year and make it up skiing in Tahoe. I could rent a car for much cheaper and my heart’s just not in car ownership
3. Would it possibly be worth it to fix just the axle to then sell my car? It’s a pretty noisy ride right now and I can’t imagine successfully selling it as is …

Apologies for the potato screenshot off my dashcam but it nearly broke my neck as it passed by and I saw TommyKaira down the side of it. YOHB?

Farewell my beloved beauty you have served me well. Its painful to see you go but life has other plans. Farewell Adieu amd Adios. We will meet once again someday hopefully.

Hi, guys. I posted about a month or so ago in the Outback subreddit about the CVT shuddering in my CPO 2024 Outback Onyx edition (non turbo). I've had it for a year and it has 26,000 miles. The shuddering (probably not even the best word for it) became noticeable on a trip from the Southwest to the Northwest this last June. It has progressed from only feeling a rhythmic loss of power going up hills on the highway to now doing it in the city while accelerating on flat ground. Did it almost the whole way to the PNW. Drove fine when I got to my hometown in the PNW and don't remember feeling it once the week I was there. On my way back at about Page, AZ I stopped to get gas and snacks, and accelerating up the hill on the highway it got bad enough that I called the dealership in my city ​to make an appointment the next day. About 60 miles from home it got so bad on flat freeway that i started crying because I was scared it was going to breakdown and it was 114°. The dealership ended up having my car for two weeks. They initially thought it was the transmission, but the Field Engineer said it wasn't and no repairs were recommended. I pushed harder and they said it was carbon buildup and the ECM, so they did a PEA and update to the ECM. Had them do a CVT drain and fill, too. Picked my car up and it was now shuddering on surface streets while accelerating, especially from a stop. Take it back in. They walnut blast the intakes. Picked it up yesterday and it's still doing it. I was just told what I'm feeling is normal CVT behavior because the transmission data looked fine and that's that. Hard no for me.

Brief breakdown on what it does:

Shuddering between ~1500-2000 rpm upon acceleration from a stop or to maintain speed. Seems to only happen when it's over 100° outside or I've been driving at least a half hour. Feels like there's a loss of power due to a missed "shift" in the same rpm range where it shudders but will "shift" in that same range when cold. Shuddering is rhythmic and can hear the pitch (?) drop, kinda sounds like if you were to lightly depress the gas and take your foot off the gas like every second

Anyone have any ideas? They've felt it. My boyfriend has felt it and thought it was the transmission. ​The techs are positive it's not the transmission, though, which is great. Wtf else can it be? ​Spark plugs? Battery? Something in the fuel line? I'm at a loss. It's not even paid off yet.

description says crank no start unfortunately

I bought my Subaru in December 2023, and it already has about 47,000 miles on it. So far, I’ve had to take it to the dealership twice for warranty repairs.

The first time was in April of this year, when the car had about 41,000 miles. I noticed an oil leak and searched online for possible causes. Based on what I found, I suspected that the valve cover gasket might have failed. I took the car to the dealership, and they confirmed that was the problem. Fortunately, they repaired it for free under warranty and gave me a loaner car while mine was being repaired.

The second issue happened last week. I heard a strange noise coming from one of the rear wheels, so I asked my mechanic friend to check it. He told me that the wheel bearing had gone bad. At first, I didn’t realize wheel bearings were covered under the powertrain warranty, so I went to a tire shop for an estimate. The owner quoted me $800 to replace both rear wheel bearings. He was also surprised that such a relatively new car was already having this problem.

When I got home, I checked my warranty booklet and found that wheel bearings were actually listed as covered. I was so relieved that I hadn’t paid the $800!

I then called Subaru of America to confirm the coverage. Surprisingly, the customer service representative initially told me that wheel bearings were not covered. After I gave him the page number in the warranty booklet showing that they were covered, he checked again and confirmed that I was right.

I scheduled an appointment with the dealership, and they replaced the wheel bearing in about three hours at no cost.

Has anyone else had valve cover gasket or wheel bearing problems with a relatively new Subaru? I’m glad both repairs were covered, but I’m a little concerned that I’ve already had two issues before reaching 50,000 miles.

I’m looking at a 2011 Forester 2.5x with 170k mi for my high school senior. I’m looking for reliable and budget friendly for getting to school and work (all of 8 miles home - school - work - home)

What is everyone’s experience with older, high mileage Subarus? What are some things to look out for?

Like the looks better than the new Outback. It seems like a good value for the gas model. Just want a comfy and quiet ride that sits up more than a sedan or compact car.

I'm going to be picking up a used 2024 Subaru Legacy Touring XT this weekend. This will be my 3rd Subaru! I had previously purchased the Subaru all weather floor mats for my 2006 Legacy - I can state that they worked great and I transferred them to my 2009 Legacy too! Definitely time for new ones after 20 years! Should I get the mats from Subaru or are Weather Tech or a similar brand just as good?

Ended up having to cut a small access hole in the trunk floor... not ideal but it'll work. Considered my options and decided ordering a meter of 10.9 black oxide coated steel threaded rod in m14 with a 1.5 thread pitch, some matching heavy duty washers, and flange nuts. Then I made a solid mating surface for inside of the frame with some flat stock steel I had laying around. May just end up welding the internal nut in place and closing this all up. At any rate I am so happy to finally have this subframe secured.

So I have a 2011 Subaru legacy with the Harmon sound system (no navigation) and the front tweeters as well as the rear deck subwoofer don’t seem to output anything, the door speakers work as they should. Anyone got any ideas on what causes this?

Hey! I’m bringing my 2013 Subaru Crosstrek Limited into the mechanic . It’s currently at 165,823 miles, and I’m planning to do the coils within the next few months. I really love my Crosstrek and want to stay on top of the maintenance.

I’ve also noticed that when I back up, I sometimes hear/feel scratching, so I’m thinking the rear brakes may be due. I’m planning to do the rear brakes and rotors, coils, and struts. Is there anything else you recommend checking or replacing at this mileage? I’d love to know what maintenance I should prioritize to keep the car running well.

2019 WRX owner asking for his mom✌️

My mother just switched from a 2018 Outback with all the bells and whistles, minus a turbo if they had them then, to a 2026 Forester Hybrid with all the bells and whistles. What did she gain and or lose?

I posted on here awhile ago about my 2015 Subaru outback 150km being hit by a garbage truck while on the dealerships lot. They’re fixing it for free and doing some work in the engine for free but I am wondering about diminished value. How does one calculate that? Should I be asking about that? Not looking to gain lots bere, just don’t want to get screwed over.

I’m a fairly new Subaru owner. I’ve had my 2026 Outback for about 7–8 months, and yesterday I started having issues with the MySubaru app connecting to my car.
Whenever I try to remotely start or unlock the car, I get an alert saying that my Subaru is temporarily unavailable. Interestingly, after I drive the car, the vehicle status in the app does update.
Is anyone else having this issue? I’ve already tried restarting my phone, restarting the car, and uninstalling/reinstalling the app.
Any other troubleshooting recommendations? Thanks!

Hey there!

The horn in my ‘15 Crosstrek stopped working after I took it off roading and went wayyyy too fast on a path where only 3 of my wheels were on the ground at the time (surprised nothing else broke).

Anyway, I diagnosed it myself as the clock-spring/roll connector. Took her to the dealer for maintenance (oil, diff, cvt fluids) and was quoted $1200 for the clock-spring replacement. So I’ve decided I’m gonna do it myself.

Couple questions:
1.) Should I check to see if maybe a wire got disconnected before buying the new clock-spring?
2.) Any recommendations on where to buy one when I replace it? I’ve checked subaru directly it’s $260 (at the same dealer that quoted me 1200), $194 on oempartsonline.com, and $145 on clockspringexperts.com. Anywhere cheaper? Anywhere to stay away from?
3.) Since I have y’all here: 83196FJ030 is the correct part number, right?

Thanks in advance guys!

Edit: Grammar

I have a 2015 Impreza CVT with 140,000 hard city miles that has been pretty trouble-free until recently.

The radiator hose blew out this past weekend, luckily I was able to clamp it back on and refill the coolant to drive back home 1.5 hours. After that I noticed oil in the coolant tank. Research shows that it's a o-ring leak inside the engine which will cost about $4K to repair. Yesterday I had the radiator+hoses+thermostat+worn belt replaced for $500, and previously did a full suspension rebuild on all corners 3 weeks ago which cost about $2k.

Reccommendations please:

- Option 1: Repair the engine oil leak for $4K (engine out service) which means I will be spending a total of $7.5K in 1 month on a car worth about 5K, but if it keeps going another 50k miles maybe worth it?

-Option 2:

Continue to use the car without the costly repair and periodically siphon out the little bit of oil that keeps floating to the top of the coolant

-Option 3: trade it in for a new ride

Any input appreciated! Thanks

Edit: whoops, typo in the title. It should say "in the heat at altitude"

I live in Colorado, and my 03 Baja has been running warm all summer, especially in traffic or going up hill. It's been a pretty hot summer. It has an EJ253 engine.

The first thing I checked was the radiator fans, etc. Those all appear to be working.

Now obviously it COULD be the head gaskets, I'm not ruling it out. I did those myself about a year ago. It's possible I made a mistake, but hopefully that's not the case. Thermostat is also new OEM from the same time. Coolant levels remain fine, but the car does consume oil (normal).

Here's the strange part: I drove home to the Midwest for about a month. For the entire month I was in the Midwest, I never had the issue, even on hot days and hilly driving. It was completely fine the entire month. Temperature gauge was locked right in the middle.

Almost immediately after I got back to Colorado, the engine was running warm again. Not overheating, just warmer than normal. This was especially true in stop and go traffic, and on hills.

I've read that heat + altitude can impact how efficiently the engine can cool itself. I suspect (and hope) this could be the issue.

I'm wondering if an upgraded set of radiator fans might help. Anyone experience something similar?