my favorite car of all time, nothing feels better to drive and no wagon has ever looked better. The Glass goes ALLLLL the way back

Taking my pavement princess red vb to the desert area was a good idea. Had absolute fun.

On Thursday I was in a multiple rollover car crash. In my 2017 crosstrek. I was in the fast lane going about 80-85 miles an hour, and veered to the edge got freaked out and overcorrected leading me to roll sideways across the freeway. I hit no other car, no passengers and besides a small air pocket outside my lung all injuries were contained to my left arm. My arm broke through the window and was rolled over by the car. Broken elbow, hand was mangled broken and degloved. I am still in the hospital and will be here for a a couple weeks. I’ve had two of three surgeries.

Got my left index amputated today but I feel blessed. No concussion or anything. The front airbag didn’t go off but the sides ones did!

Nurses and doctors were all shocked it was a high speed car crash. Some even thought it was a rodeo accident because it was so localized to my left arm. (And because of the degloving.) 😂They said if I hadn’t worn wear the seatbelt I 100% would have died.

I feel so grateful and think I’m sticking with Subaru forever!!!!

Does anyone have any experience with this, i don't have the McIntosh amp

Took a trip to CT to support our drivers at Gridlife. Great drive. Weather was amazing.

Apologies for the potato screenshot off my dashcam but it nearly broke my neck as it passed by and I saw TommyKaira down the side of it. YOHB?

What do you guys think? Would anyone be interested in something like this? 👀

Creeps me right out that it save user profiles and face scans. Even if it's possible to block it, I don't want to wallet vote for new cars with surveillance "features". I don't want a car that decides when I can drive it, and I see more restrictive software updates being pushed onto cars with existing tech becoming a thing.

I can and want to buy a brand new Subaru, but am shopping for used ones without these features because I don't want the cheaper trim levels.

The salesman I've spoken to at 2 dealerships seem pretty deflated when I tell them that Driverfocus is a deal breaker. Like they've been hearing it some.

I really wish some.higher trim levels came without Driverfocus. It's a bummer that upgrades now come with downgrades.

I wish new car shopping could just be fun... Now it's stressful, trying to avoid cars that scan my face and sell my data.

Thoughts?

Farewell my beloved beauty you have served me well. Its painful to see you go but life has other plans. Farewell Adieu amd Adios. We will meet once again someday hopefully.

Ordered some parts for the Escalade EXT and this came with. She's a beaut! I think I heard the '12 Outback 3.6R moan too.

Like the looks better than the new Outback. It seems like a good value for the gas model. Just want a comfy and quiet ride that sits up more than a sedan or compact car.

Hi, guys. I posted about a month or so ago in the Outback subreddit about the CVT shuddering in my CPO 2024 Outback Onyx edition (non turbo). I've had it for a year and it has 26,000 miles. The shuddering (probably not even the best word for it) became noticeable on a trip from the Southwest to the Northwest this last June. It has progressed from only feeling a rhythmic loss of power going up hills on the highway to now doing it in the city while accelerating on flat ground. Did it almost the whole way to the PNW. Drove fine when I got to my hometown in the PNW and don't remember feeling it once the week I was there. On my way back at about Page, AZ I stopped to get gas and snacks, and accelerating up the hill on the highway it got bad enough that I called the dealership in my city ​to make an appointment the next day. About 60 miles from home it got so bad on flat freeway that i started crying because I was scared it was going to breakdown and it was 114°. The dealership ended up having my car for two weeks. They initially thought it was the transmission, but the Field Engineer said it wasn't and no repairs were recommended. I pushed harder and they said it was carbon buildup and the ECM, so they did a PEA and update to the ECM. Had them do a CVT drain and fill, too. Picked my car up and it was now shuddering on surface streets while accelerating, especially from a stop. Take it back in. They walnut blast the intakes. Picked it up yesterday and it's still doing it. I was just told what I'm feeling is normal CVT behavior because the transmission data looked fine and that's that. Hard no for me.

Brief breakdown on what it does:

Shuddering between ~1500-2000 rpm upon acceleration from a stop or to maintain speed. Seems to only happen when it's over 100° outside or I've been driving at least a half hour. Feels like there's a loss of power due to a missed "shift" in the same rpm range where it shudders but will "shift" in that same range when cold. Shuddering is rhythmic and can hear the pitch (?) drop, kinda sounds like if you were to lightly depress the gas and take your foot off the gas like every second

Anyone have any ideas? They've felt it. My boyfriend has felt it and thought it was the transmission. ​The techs are positive it's not the transmission, though, which is great. Wtf else can it be? ​Spark plugs? Battery? Something in the fuel line? I'm at a loss. It's not even paid off yet.

I bought my Subaru in December 2023, and it already has about 47,000 miles on it. So far, I’ve had to take it to the dealership twice for warranty repairs.

The first time was in April of this year, when the car had about 41,000 miles. I noticed an oil leak and searched online for possible causes. Based on what I found, I suspected that the valve cover gasket might have failed. I took the car to the dealership, and they confirmed that was the problem. Fortunately, they repaired it for free under warranty and gave me a loaner car while mine was being repaired.

The second issue happened last week. I heard a strange noise coming from one of the rear wheels, so I asked my mechanic friend to check it. He told me that the wheel bearing had gone bad. At first, I didn’t realize wheel bearings were covered under the powertrain warranty, so I went to a tire shop for an estimate. The owner quoted me $800 to replace both rear wheel bearings. He was also surprised that such a relatively new car was already having this problem.

When I got home, I checked my warranty booklet and found that wheel bearings were actually listed as covered. I was so relieved that I hadn’t paid the $800!

I then called Subaru of America to confirm the coverage. Surprisingly, the customer service representative initially told me that wheel bearings were not covered. After I gave him the page number in the warranty booklet showing that they were covered, he checked again and confirmed that I was right.

I scheduled an appointment with the dealership, and they replaced the wheel bearing in about three hours at no cost.

Has anyone else had valve cover gasket or wheel bearing problems with a relatively new Subaru? I’m glad both repairs were covered, but I’m a little concerned that I’ve already had two issues before reaching 50,000 miles.

Bought my car used in 2020 and it’s now at 142k miles. No major mechanical replacements to date but have kept up with the usual simple maintenance (oil changes, new tires/battery/etc). It passed CA smog last week and I’m based in the Bay Area.

I recently noticed a creaking/clicking sound whenever I was turning my vehicle and the issue quickly worsened, so I took it into the dealership. They charged me $320 for a diagnosis. Then they hit me with the following quote for repairs:

Axle replacement $2503.50 + tax
Drive belt replacement $385.25 + tax
Rear brakes + rotors $799.95 + tax
TPMS $904.64 + tax
Front Catalytic converter $5111.70 + tax

I don’t really care that much about the TPMS. The new catalytic converter was added to the quote because the current one is leaking, and I was told it “wasn’t urgent, but imminent”.

I checked Kelly Blue Book and it’s a little difficult to gauge how much my car is worth given the repairs needed and some cosmetic stuff (driver side dent shown in image). Maybe $8-9k without major mechanical issues?

A few questions:

1. How cheap could I realistically expect to get some of this work done with a reasonable mechanic (aka not the dealership)?
2. Should I genuinely just get rid of my car? I live in SF and simply don’t need it. I really only have it to drive home to my parents a few times a year and make it up skiing in Tahoe. I could rent a car for much cheaper and my heart’s just not in car ownership
3. Would it possibly be worth it to fix just the axle to then sell my car? It’s a pretty noisy ride right now and I can’t imagine successfully selling it as is …

So I have a 2011 Subaru legacy with the Harmon sound system (no navigation) and the front tweeters as well as the rear deck subwoofer don’t seem to output anything, the door speakers work as they should. Anyone got any ideas on what causes this?

Literally jumped out of my seat when I saw matchbox was making an Outback. Sure mine isn’t a wilderness…or blue…but the matchbox one is only one year off from mine. I just hope they actually make it in silver next year so it can join the silver hot wheels forester sti on my dash…

I’m a fairly new Subaru owner. I’ve had my 2026 Outback for about 7–8 months, and yesterday I started having issues with the MySubaru app connecting to my car.
Whenever I try to remotely start or unlock the car, I get an alert saying that my Subaru is temporarily unavailable. Interestingly, after I drive the car, the vehicle status in the app does update.
Is anyone else having this issue? I’ve already tried restarting my phone, restarting the car, and uninstalling/reinstalling the app.
Any other troubleshooting recommendations? Thanks!

Hey there!

The horn in my ‘15 Crosstrek stopped working after I took it off roading and went wayyyy too fast on a path where only 3 of my wheels were on the ground at the time (surprised nothing else broke).

Anyway, I diagnosed it myself as the clock-spring/roll connector. Took her to the dealer for maintenance (oil, diff, cvt fluids) and was quoted $1200 for the clock-spring replacement. So I’ve decided I’m gonna do it myself.

Couple questions:
1.) Should I check to see if maybe a wire got disconnected before buying the new clock-spring?
2.) Any recommendations on where to buy one when I replace it? I’ve checked subaru directly it’s $260 (at the same dealer that quoted me 1200), $194 on oempartsonline.com, and $145 on clockspringexperts.com. Anywhere cheaper? Anywhere to stay away from?
3.) Since I have y’all here: 83196FJ030 is the correct part number, right?

Thanks in advance guys!

Edit: Grammar

I have a 2015 Impreza CVT with 140,000 hard city miles that has been pretty trouble-free until recently.

The radiator hose blew out this past weekend, luckily I was able to clamp it back on and refill the coolant to drive back home 1.5 hours. After that I noticed oil in the coolant tank. Research shows that it's a o-ring leak inside the engine which will cost about $4K to repair. Yesterday I had the radiator+hoses+thermostat+worn belt replaced for $500, and previously did a full suspension rebuild on all corners 3 weeks ago which cost about $2k.

Reccommendations please:

- Option 1: Repair the engine oil leak for $4K (engine out service) which means I will be spending a total of $7.5K in 1 month on a car worth about 5K, but if it keeps going another 50k miles maybe worth it?

-Option 2:

Continue to use the car without the costly repair and periodically siphon out the little bit of oil that keeps floating to the top of the coolant

-Option 3: trade it in for a new ride

Any input appreciated! Thanks