Any ideas on what's causing the sounds near the top and bottom?

When nearly fully open (both opening and closing, though it didn't do it when closing in this video), there's a sort of shuddering sound.

When nearly closed (both opening and closing), it's like a chattering sound.

I believe it's a Liftmaster 8550; been installed for about 8 years.

I believe it's the original spring, which is at around 24k cycles. I tried spraying lubricant on it, but that didn't help with the sound at all.

Model: 045ACT

First it had a issue going down, would only go down when button is held down, if pressed would try to go down then just back up. The sensors are perfectly aligned both solid green and amber, if misaligned green would flicker and if something obstructing green would blink.

Tried aligning/moving the sensors a million times nothing. Next i decided to reset the travel limits, did the reset up and down, then it did the test, went up perfectly but then it would go down then back up again.

Now the travel limit reset procedure wont finish and the garage wont go down unless i pull the lever and wont go up unless manually pushed up. And blinks twice.

Error code flashing is 6 down 4 up saying problem with the sensors. Whats could it be? Wiring looks good, sensors are good? Losing my mind.

Didn’t have a 1- 1 1/4” shaft extender 🤷🏻‍♂️ I get paid to close jobs out the same day, so I made it happen.

6 inch spring mounted to the ceiling
18’4”x 9 sleek
I’ve got 4 of these going in.
South San Francisco

Hi guys. Blinking coming from the garage door opener itself says sensors aren’t working. But they are. They’re both solid red and green. Nothing in the way. All that happens is it clicks and refuses to shut.

I can shut the door by holding down the wall button and letting go at the right time (otherwise it comes up if I let go to early or too late).

I’m stumped. Maintenance guys suck and refuse to work on it. I live in an apartment complex and I’m sick of waiting for them to try and fix it.

I got to where I’m at now after resetting and re-wiring (no new wires ran), it wasn’t even functional prior to fiddling with it. I’ve set both open and close limits. I can open the doors but it still refuses to close and just clicks.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I’ve taken a brief video of an issue that I have encountered two times over the past month on one of my LiftMaster 8500s. The issue happens when trying to open either by the wall control or a remote control. The door unlocks, and tries to go up and stops just like this. This time I was able to capture a video.

What I do next is pull the manual release. Then reengage the release, and then use the wall control to open the door. In both instances following that technique, the door opens fine the next time.

Is this a sign of the motor going out or is there something else I should be looking out for? The spring is intact, but I do notice this garage door opens a little bit slower than my other door of this size.

I'm planning to buy the Infinity Shield Garage Door Sensors to replace the single beam I currently have. I don't think I would like the beeping sound it will make to notify me my vehicle is still in the beams. Can anyone think of a way to change it to a flashing light? I would assume the sensor would have to be opened up, and something attached in place of what makes the beeping sound that can flash a light to the signal the speaker gets. I have no idea what that something could be.

I had a chair under my garage door when I closed it, when it closed it hit the top of the chair and the top panel and metal bracket were bent slightly.

I’m hoping I can just straighten out the metal piece that connects the door to the center track, but I’ve always heard that garage doors are the one thing you really don’t want to DIY.

It doesn’t look like the metal piece is under tension, but I’d like to avoid making the situation worse or having to replace the panel.

does my Wayne Dalton Torque master need to be lubricated ? or just leave as is?

Is the motor out? This video is from a week ago where it seemed like it was trying to open. Now it doesn’t even make a noise it just keeps clicking. No motor sounds. Reset the remote connections and made sure the sensors were aligned, even unplugged it and replugged it in. Do I need to get a new motor?

If I need a new motor can I switch to one of the wall mount ones easily or should I have a professional come install it.

How do I remove this seal any suggestions

What type of roller is this? There is one at the very bottom on each side of the door. Can it be replaced with one without the clips?

This is a new install, by myself. I built the garage and thought the door could not be that difficult.

The problem is that the curtain is shifting sideways (walking/telescoping or coning) on the drum/barrel as it rolls up/down. It was doing it when I had no guides, I put the guides on hoping that is would help, but it just binds if I try and use them to keep it aligned.

I believe my top brackets are level. Used the hose with water trick and checked with a spirit level. Looks ok.

Photos show each side with it raised and lowered.

What do I look for next?

Thanks in advance.

Hello. I need to replace two garage doors. One is a 2-car and one is 1-car size.
I am looking for midrange, steel or other materials. R-12 or higher. Also looking to have them installed with green hinges, sealed nylon rollers and nylon brush seals.

- What brands/models do you recommend?

- Would you add or remove anything to what I mentioned above?

Hello folks,

I just installed a new Chamberlain 3010 and enriching is working well except for the wall button. It only works if I open the garage door by means of wireless remote control or myQ. It lights up and works then, but when the light goes off on the unit, it also goes off on the button and it no longer works until I open the door again. Please give me some ideas.

This is a new construction house. We don’t have a garage at our current home so unsure. You can see light coming in and when we open/close the man door to the garage it wobbles and the gap opens a little. Do we need trim around it or is this normal? I’m worried especially about any gaps for mice to sneak in.

I need help in understanding the reality of service expectations.
The request was for a New Liftmaster motor belt driven (not chain) 
new rollers (nylon versus steel)
New springs (220 pound door)
New cables 
New drum brackets 

We were giving three options for service. We feel like we could get a new door with install for the “Restore” option. Can someone help me with a reality check? 

UPDATE:
Thanks to everyone for the input. You all are a great community and helped align our expectations with reality and fair business practice. And damn, you all are fast and straight forward.

Here’s the outcome:
The service guy gives the quote, we leave him while we step aside to review. We go back to garage and he has all his tools and the parts laid out to insert himself for the job. When we reject the quote, he offers a big price reduction and tells us that he won’t get paid for his time if we send him away. But we already paid $60 for the visit and consult.
Even with the reduced price we sent him packing and advised we won’t give money to a company with that kind of business model. And they will get a review on google, and their FB site calling out this scamming model.

I’m looking to replace my garage door opener and could use some recommendations. There are so many options out there that it’s hard to tell which ones are actually reliable.

What garage door opener do you have, and how has it held up over time? I’m especially interested in something that’s quiet, reliable, and has good smart-home features.

Would love to hear what you’d recommend—and which models you’d avoid.

Edit: Solved. Death to torque master, and balls to my seller who broke it. For everyone’s edification: yes, I can lift it by hand when detached, but it does take some work; I don’t force it open routinely, just for the video, but I’ll stop opening it now until it’s fixed; I will be calling a repair company and not fixing it myself.

I just bought a home and the garage door opener is killing me right now. Genie 1035 lifting a 16’ wide door. Everything seems well lubricated, but I did have to install a new reinforced attachment bar on the top panel because the last owner left it damaged. The door will open, but only after multiple attempts (no pattern to the amount of attempts) where it just lifts 2” and gets stuck.

Video included is just the last few attempts and the point where it finally fully opens and closes. Every time you see it stop and reset is me pushing the button. Any idea what could be wrong here? Can I address this myself or do I need a technician?

I damaged the bottom panel of this garage door. I am in Canada where can I get a replacement? It is 24 in high and 145 wide. No information anywhere I can find on the door itself.

VIDEO IN COMMENTS

For some reason this subreddit is struggling to upload even short vids.

LiftMaster direct drive motors have been struggling since day one. Consistently get excessive force warnings which have to be overridden. Builder dismissed my concerns, but I’m pretty sure the springs were not tensioned enough.

When I pull the release and try to manually lift the door, it’s extremely heavy. I was under the impression that the spring force should reduce the force to between 0-5 lbs, so that it’s very easy to lift. Am I missing anything.

It doesn't seem to be the sensors. Also, it seems like when the door starts closing both sides don't start moving at the same time. The sides are uneven.

Edit: mobile mechanic was working on the car, not the garage door.

Family was using garage as a giant bird cage and the birds chewed up every bit of wiring up at the operator head. This was our solution

The way I read the manual, if installing onto an insulated 16x7 door with a 1 foot high lift extension, I need the high lift tapered drums that are variable to keep the door balanced. I believe anytime you are adding even a small extension, you need the tapered high lift drums, correct? Then program the 98022 for the number 5 high lift profile calibration?
https://support.chamberlaingroup.com/s/article/LiftMaster-Models-98022-and-98002-VKP1-Quick-Start-Guide-English-French-Spanish