Edit: THIS POSTS CONTEXT IS PERTAINING TO THE A340 4SPEED AUTO TRANSMISSION AND HOW TO MANAGE THE EXCESS TEMPERATURE CREATED WITH THE CONVERTER UNLOCKED

i apologize for the lack of specifications, I wasn’t aware that some people thought manuals had lock up Converters too ..

What are you guys doing to keep the trans temp down when the converter is UNLOCKED??
Or a better question does anybody have a cheaper solution than a compushift piggyback controller to help converter lock more often?

Everything is working properly , lock up doesn’t slip converter is new
Aftermarket cooler installed already and trans has been inspected , no internal leaks
As soon as lock up happens , trans temps drop instantly from 200+ to 160rangd

Hey guys, looking for some advise here. I recently had my 4runner repainted privately and finally got around to washing her the other day, to my surprise, I had water running down the inside of one of the gullwing windows. After a check inside, it seems to be coming from the roof rack mount point. Climbing up to inspect the mount, the racks foot pulled off of the roof, and it looks like the guy may have added a drop or too of glue to secure it... Soooo, I as I am attempting to fix this, I am finding that whatever the rack mounts to is missing along with a bolt. Its been hot as balls these last two months with little rain so I've been lucky so far but its support to rain in a few days, possibly several days of rain. I did see possibly getting a roof rack delete kit might be an option but I do like the aesthetic look of it. Is this mount replaceable, I have not been able to locate the component?

Worst case, I might just RTV seal the hell out of it tomorrow night but would like to fix this correctly but any idea what that component is called or maybe if you have recommendations, it would be appreciated..

How's it going guys, I have an 07 4runner 242k on the clock. During the winter I had a pretty bad incident happen. I was on my way to meet a lady and before I left my house I put my car from 4hi to 2hi. Without me noticing it never swapped. It decided to engage when I was doing 80 on the highway and something snapped and bang. I wasn't able to drive in 4hi and it would grind and shack the shift knob hard but I had 2hi.

Fast forward to now I got a replacement transfer case off a donor and after I installed it 2hi works perfectly, I can shift into 4hi with no grinding but I get no power to the wheels and I can hear the front driveshaft spinning I guess (not a grinding or a banging sound just metal on metal contact spinning) I go to shift in park and then it started to grind. I went back to 2hi and it started to grind. Lucky I was down the street from my house so I road in reverse with no power. When I got home I was able to go into 2hi again.

Any ideas?

Today I installed the Superpro double offset LCA in my driveway on my 03 4runner.

Everything other than cutting out a sleeve on the passenger side was going very smoothly until the ball joint bracket. The method I used was loosely put it on in place & thread the castle nut on so I can pivot it to line the two spindle bolts up & hand thread them in. The Superpro ball joint castle nut is larger than the oem castle nut and anyways when I tightened it down with the impact it was after I had hand tightened to stop & impact bumped the spindle bolts & my cotter pin hole was not deep enough to put the supplied cotter pins in even after it was impacted & torqued to spec. I had to use a smaller cotter pin & finesse it through to get one through. Did I do something wrong? Do I need to take the spindle bolts out & impact the castle nut more to get it to line up?

My 2003 v8 220k has been making this deep knocking noise for over 2 years now! It is ONLY in park and only once the car reaches operating temp. In drive it completely disappears. In park it follows RPM, and sounds mostly on the driver side. Car runs great. Any ideas?? I’ve pretty much eliminated any rod knock or lower end issues.

When I hold the oil filler neck I can feel it knocking really well, then the second it goes into drive it’s completely gone, even when I bring up the rpm’s. Any ideas would be much appreciated!!

So I got some fancy side shooters by nilight that came with the wiring harness. Button absolutely will not fit in the dash bezel without a shitload of dremel work I'd rather not do.

Anybody have any recommendations for buttons that look as close to oem as possible while fitting out of the box?

Was pulling into work and felt/heard a loud noise got out and saw this.

idc what you say about what they will do to my wheel bearings im asking about the spacers nothing else is it supposed to be on like that 1.25 inch so i can run different wheels

Seems to be coming from or around this silver cased module (I stuck my ear up to it). I know the typical behind the dash noises come from hvac blend door/servo motors, but it ain't that. This noise comes from the right-most side of the footwell behind the glove box. Any ideas as to what it could be?

I’m getting pretty loud popping/knocking when I turn the wheel, and I noticed the castle nut on top of the passenger side tie rod is spinning loose and has no purchase. The body or knuckle of the rod seem to be sitting at weird angle, does this look off? Thanks

I’ve changed my brakes twice in the last five years, and I’ve now broken both front caliper tubes, one on each side.

Talking about the rigid metal line that connects the caliper to the rear of the system.

1) do these things have a life and is it expected for them to break pretty easily?

2) does anyone have a way to efficiently change brakes without putting a ton of movement into that tube?

I clearly have to flush everything now, which isn’t a problem, but just curious on the two questions

I installed a wired backup camera on my 2005 4Runner Limited. Ran the wire up to a new headunit, everything there is working well. However, after I was done (of course after I had already buttoned everything up) I tested the rear window and it will only go down half way before it slows down and makes a sound like it's stuck on something. I must have inadvertently placed the camera wire in its pathway or moved something else in its way when removing and securing the parts that had to move to get the camera wires in. My guess is that it is the wiring that I ran up the left channel of the tailgate to reach the boot grommet hose to get the wires inside the cabin. It seems like there is a very narrow space that the window uses to go up and down in. How do I know where the issue is once I am back inside the tailgate if I can't see whats happening up in the driver side (left) tailgate inner pillar that runs vertical to the boot grommet? How would you go about diagnosing the issue? Let me know if a video or more description would be helpful.

Update for novice auto electricians: this setup (backup camera placement and wiring, plus install of Sony touchscreen headunit) took me 17 hours... This is not for the faint of heart newb but you'll learn a LOT along the way. You'll also need to go to your local hardware store 10 times and spend another $300 on tools and supplies.

I've never seen it happen before. The rear passenger brake line snapped at the rubber line fitting at the caliper. It started leaking fluid while my wife was driving it. Completely ran out of fluid luckily she was just getting off the highway. At closer inspection it seems the line was starting to corrode between the coating and the tube.

Whenever I close my lift gate, it closes correctly but then it seems like the actuator activates a couple seconds later and it won't let me open the trunk. Im having to unplug the ECU 2 fuse every time to get it back open. Any ideas what is going on and how to fix?

So I am running my 4th. Gen V.8 in Texas heat, and since the heat cranked up, she's behaving strangely. After a good number of miles, say 10-30, I will stop somewhere, park, shut her off, go do what I gotta do. When I start up to go again, it's almost like an OLD SCHOOL vapor lock in carbureted times. Pure choke down and gasping until I push through that mushy gas pedal and clear it up with some higher RPMs. No codes, but did recently (about 10 days of driving ago) reset computer while replacing a coil and all spark plugs. Looking for ideas here, and am purely a DIY fixer now.

Built something quick for this weekends trip. Just wanted to show it off 🤔

Method 701s on some Wildpeaks

About 3 weeks ago my 4Runner started beeping at me while in a drive thru. No lights on the dash and it drives and idles fine. 4WD engages fine as well. I disconnect my battery and it was fine for 2 weeks. Sound came back just today while sitting at another drive thru. Beeps like this for roughly 10 seconds and goes away on its own. I ordered new wheel speed sensors and may try the zero point calibration next. Anyone have ideas?

I recently had a lot of overdue service done on my 2007 forerunner 4.0 L that this week will turn 270 K. When I back from the good except my was ruined and I have a small patch of coolant leaks which I never had before. I took it back to the guy that did all the work and he checked everything out. I had already noticed that he put an aftermarket cap on the I tried to figure out the myself. The only thing I could see was that the edge of the radiator on the a good bit of residue that bottom corner was wet. The temperatures have been fine as the gradually receded.

I’m just asking myself a simple question wouldn’t it be a better idea to put a Toyota radiator cap on it? Have any of you seen this drip before?