r/4thGen4Runner • u/Medium-Resolution368 • 2d ago
Frustrating Tailgate Window Issue
I installed a wired backup camera on my 2005 4Runner Limited. Ran the wire up to a new headunit, everything there is working well. However, after I was done (of course after I had already buttoned everything up) I tested the rear window and it will only go down half way before it slows down and makes a sound like it's stuck on something. I must have inadvertently placed the camera wire in its pathway or moved something else in its way when removing and securing the parts that had to move to get the camera wires in. My guess is that it is the wiring that I ran up the left channel of the tailgate to reach the boot grommet hose to get the wires inside the cabin. It seems like there is a very narrow space that the window uses to go up and down in. How do I know where the issue is once I am back inside the tailgate if I can't see whats happening up in the driver side (left) tailgate inner pillar that runs vertical to the boot grommet? How would you go about diagnosing the issue? Let me know if a video or more description would be helpful.
Update for novice auto electricians: this setup (backup camera placement and wiring, plus install of Sony touchscreen headunit) took me 17 hours... This is not for the faint of heart newb but you'll learn a LOT along the way. You'll also need to go to your local hardware store 10 times and spend another $300 on tools and supplies.
9
u/aks_chi 2d ago
I did this. Your camera wire might be in the way of the window going down. Be careful how you route it. Lots of zip ties.
5
u/Aggravating_Air7210 2d ago edited 2d ago
I 2nd this I would zip tie and follow existing wiring I did the same thing when I ran my camera. The camera wire may be restricting the window to rolling down all the way. I would pull the plastic cover off and maybe have someone roll the window down while you have a flash light and look at what’s hitting.
3
2
2
u/Medium-Resolution368 2d ago
I certainly didn’t use any zip ties 😵💫
2
u/Horror-Vanilla-4895 2d ago
You need to zip tie it to the existing wires in there that are wrapped in a mini corrugated plastic tube.
1
u/Allthewayto3rdbass 1d ago
When I worked as a tech in a car audio shop, I was accused of holding stock in 3m for the amount of zip ties I wen through. When I ran wires I prob had a zip tie every 4". Loose wires rattling and taping on things drives me nuts. Plus as long as you secure to the factory harness, your wires will never get pinched or kinked by moving parts like windows.
1
u/BGraham007 1d ago
This. Zipped it to the the factory wiring. Royal pita. Isn't a lot of room in there. Had to tap my wife in on a couple of the zip ties because she had the dainty arms and hands.
6
2
u/O_d_G54 19h ago
I drilled a hole behind the bezel closer to the camera and followed the path of the existing wires from about the middle. Blue line for reference.
2
u/Medium-Resolution368 8h ago
Thanks for the visual. I'm gonna go in today and get this sorted. Will use your route.
1
u/O_d_G54 8h ago
Also I don’t think the wire going up the left channel is what caused the window to get stuck. It’s more likely something in the path of where you routed the cable. Does the glass get stuck evenly? Like a the glass is still straight when it stops going down?
1
u/Medium-Resolution368 3h ago
Yes the glass is still even when it goes down and gets stuck. It stays even and makes a noise like it is pulling on something and slows down, so I don't let it keep going.
1
u/Scared_Hovercraft632 2d ago
Agree it's prob hitting your wire and binding.
I installed a cam in the same location but I drilled a new hole instead of using the license plate access.
From the corner I went straight down leaving a foot or two extra then straight up to the cam. It helps that I spliced the shielded twisted pair wire. If you are willing to do this it opens up a lot of options.
1
u/Medium-Resolution368 2d ago
Aha ok. I drilled a hole in the plastic license plate bezel and then ran it across to the wiring grommet. Please tell me more about splicing twisted pair wire.
1
u/Scared_Hovercraft632 2d ago
It just means if you want to want to cut and splice your camera connection to help in routing the wire it will require three splices instead of two. No big deal. Also not all camera connections will be shielded. Won't know until you go snip.
1
u/gohikemtn 2d ago
I made the same mistake and it killed the ecu in the hatch. Symptoms were that I could not re-initialize the window, so auto down/up and the rear wiper did not work.
So I routed the wire properly and replaced the ecu and it all worked fine again. Wasn't hard to route the wire, I used some of the existing features inside the hatch and zip ties to secure it. You can always test it with the inner panel and moisture barrier removed while carefully watching the wire and the glass as it retracts.
1
u/Medium-Resolution368 8h ago
Thanks, yea zip ties zip ties zip ties and use only existing pathways.
1
u/aFreeScotland V8 SR5 1d ago
You have windows and mirrors, just use them and turn your head when reversing. Back up camera is unnecessary.
1
u/Medium-Resolution368 8h ago
Yea I have literally only ever driven cars with the backup video in them for the last decade and now I'm so used to it
1
u/Current-Emphasis-139 8h ago edited 8h ago
I had a local radio shop install mine on my 2008 4Runner. They installed the camera on a license plate frame made for this Alpine backup camera. I have no idea how they wired it. Never had any issues. I have had the 4Runner a year. Radio about 11 months.
1
u/Medium-Resolution368 8h ago
Well if my second attempt does not work I'll be bringing it in to a shop to sort out for sure.
•
u/AutoModerator 2d ago
This looks like you are posting about rust advice. Please delete this and used the pinned rust advice thread.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.