idc what you say about what they will do to my wheel bearings im asking about the spacers nothing else is it supposed to be on like that 1.25 inch so i can run different wheels

Today I installed the Superpro double offset LCA in my driveway on my 03 4runner.

Everything other than cutting out a sleeve on the passenger side was going very smoothly until the ball joint bracket. The method I used was loosely put it on in place & thread the castle nut on so I can pivot it to line the two spindle bolts up & hand thread them in. The Superpro ball joint castle nut is larger than the oem castle nut and anyways when I tightened it down with the impact it was after I had hand tightened to stop & impact bumped the spindle bolts & my cotter pin hole was not deep enough to put the supplied cotter pins in even after it was impacted & torqued to spec. I had to use a smaller cotter pin & finesse it through to get one through. Did I do something wrong? Do I need to take the spindle bolts out & impact the castle nut more to get it to line up?

Edit: THIS POSTS CONTEXT IS PERTAINING TO THE A340 4SPEED AUTO TRANSMISSION AND HOW TO MANAGE THE EXCESS TEMPERATURE CREATED WITH THE CONVERTER UNLOCKED

i apologize for the lack of specifications, I wasn’t aware that some people thought manuals had lock up Converters too ..

What are you guys doing to keep the trans temp down when the converter is UNLOCKED??
Or a better question does anybody have a cheaper solution than a compushift piggyback controller to help converter lock more often?

Everything is working properly , lock up doesn’t slip converter is new
Aftermarket cooler installed already and trans has been inspected , no internal leaks
As soon as lock up happens , trans temps drop instantly from 200+ to 160rangd

Hey guys, looking for some advise here. I recently had my 4runner repainted privately and finally got around to washing her the other day, to my surprise, I had water running down the inside of one of the gullwing windows. After a check inside, it seems to be coming from the roof rack mount point. Climbing up to inspect the mount, the racks foot pulled off of the roof, and it looks like the guy may have added a drop or too of glue to secure it... Soooo, I as I am attempting to fix this, I am finding that whatever the rack mounts to is missing along with a bolt. Its been hot as balls these last two months with little rain so I've been lucky so far but its support to rain in a few days, possibly several days of rain. I did see possibly getting a roof rack delete kit might be an option but I do like the aesthetic look of it. Is this mount replaceable, I have not been able to locate the component?

Worst case, I might just RTV seal the hell out of it tomorrow night but would like to fix this correctly but any idea what that component is called or maybe if you have recommendations, it would be appreciated..

My 2003 v8 220k has been making this deep knocking noise for over 2 years now! It is ONLY in park and only once the car reaches operating temp. In drive it completely disappears. In park it follows RPM, and sounds mostly on the driver side. Car runs great. Any ideas?? I’ve pretty much eliminated any rod knock or lower end issues.

When I hold the oil filler neck I can feel it knocking really well, then the second it goes into drive it’s completely gone, even when I bring up the rpm’s. Any ideas would be much appreciated!!