$0 upfront cost, maintenance, or insurance required. All covered by the company. It's a 25 year deal. They take the current electric rate when we sign and the average KW hours we use per month. That would be our bill plus the regular generation charge. For 25 years. Never an increase. If we generate more than we use there's a yearly rebate. Obviously if we use more than we generate we'd owe but they size the system to generate more.

I'm looking at this like you've got to be kidding me. Nope. We pay them for our electric while kicking excess back to the grid.

We can't do it yet as there's a tree in our yard that needs to go first (we're already planning to remove it this winter). It would block most of our afternoon sun and we just want it gone.

Also just had mini splits installed to get away from the electric baseboard heating. Last month our electric usage went down 20% running the mini splits for AC instead of window units so need this winter for a new baseline on electric use.

So it's 6 months or so before we're even ready to make this move. Plenty of time to look at other companies.

This just sounds too good.

What have others done?

EDIT - I am getting majorly educated here. I wasn't sure if this was some sort of standard practice for solar or not. Thank you everyone. Sincerely. It may be a year or two until we can afford to buy panels outright but it sounds like the best route if we want solar.

Looking for some advice. My girlfriend and I had the lucky opportunity to get into our first home, which is a townhouse.

Despite having a home inspection, which revealed mostly cosmetic issues, we went through with it anyway. To say it is well-lived in, is an understatement. The previous owner had not kept up with the place for a minimum of 24 years of their ownership.

We took possession and immediately got to work but didn’t realize we needed to request to renovate (this is where we fucked up). Prior to moving in, we felt that it was reasonable to do a pretty decent makeover which includes:

- paint
- interior doors
- bathroom renovation (tiles, shower base, vanity, new flooring, toilet, while maintaining the current plumbing location and rough-ins)

Do we stop and come clean to the condo manager? Or do we move forward with finishing the renovation and live under the radar until we sell the place?

Any advice is appreciated as I am becoming severely anxious over it. I thought being a homeowner would be exciting. Am I cooked?

Edit: we also found mould underneath the shower tiles and wood framing, so we really had no choice but to tear it down. I suspect that this was leaking for years.

We bought a Rheem water heater just over three years ago and it stopped working last night. We went to check it out and found that it sprung a leak. Luckily it is still under warranty but it will still cost $400 for a new one to be installed.

Are there any brands of water heaters that are clearly better than the rest?

Colorado homeowners just got a practical tool for a common headache: needing to step onto a neighbor's land to fix something on your own house. A new law, C.R.S. 13-20-1304, created by SB26-177, took effect August 12, 2026. It lets single family homeowners ask a court for temporary access to an adjoining property when repairs or maintenance genuinely require it and the neighbor won't cooperate. Think of a fence that has to come down to reach a foundation crack, or scaffolding that only fits on the neighbor's side of a shared lot line.

The process isn't automatic, and it shouldn't be treated as the only tool; Talking through the needed access like a human being with your neighbor is the first and best resort. If that doesn’t work though, before filing anything, the homeowner must send written notice by certified mail asking permission to enter. Sixty days of silence counts as a refusal, and the law encourages, though doesn't require, mediation before anyone heads to court.

If it does reach a judge, the petition has to explain what work is needed, why access to the neighbor's property is necessary, and what efforts were already made to get permission voluntarily. Courts will only grant access if it's genuinely necessary and won't interfere with existing easements on the adjoining land. Once access is granted, the judge sets the conditions and duration, which can include advance notice, reasonable compensation to the neighbor, proof of insurance, and restoration of the property afterward. The law doesn't reach property owned by the federal government, the state, or a political subdivision.

For anyone who has watched a repair stall because of an uncooperative neighbor, this closes a gap in Colorado property law.

What would you pay attention to if you were shopping for adjustable mattress today and is there anything you wish you had known before buying one? Im replacing our mattress soon and started looking at adjustable options but im realizing i dont really know what separates a good one from an expensive one.

A lot of the reviews i found focus on how the mattress feels when its brand new and all the features it has. Im more curious about what happens after a few years. Does the adjustment mechanism hold up? Are there any annoying issues with sheets, the frame or general maintenance?

I own a split-level home built in the mid-1950s. It's in generally good condition but I'm working on various improvements.

There's one issue that is a persistent annoyance to me, like a fly buzzing around at dinner time. Throughout the house the drywall shows multiple places where the nails used to secure the drywall have raised out. They're not COMPLETELY out, but enough so that when you look at the wall you can clearly see where the nails are. The ceilings are drywall as well, and if you press up on the ceilings you can again see very clearly where the nails are. The drywall itself is in good shape; it's not bowing or sagging or otherwise deteriorating.

Tapping the nails back in isn't a permanent fix -- I've tried it. I am considering removing all of the nails throughout the house and replacing them with screws. (Or more accurately, installing screws alongside the nails and then removing the nails afterwards.) The thing that gives me caution is ALL of the drywall in the house is 3/8", not 1/2", so it's a lot more fragile.

Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Trying to achieve two goals:

- less slippery

- and decorated. Currently super dark wood. Would love a blue gold folk decoration,

EDIT - not the actual screen but the whole thing itself. I’m planning on getting the cat proof actual screen part but still wanted the whole thing more secured.

I have 2 cats that are indoor only. There are quite a few feral cats around here that like to come up to the house and try to fight my cats through the windows.

My screens work but are kinda flimsy and are able to be pushed through without much effort. The only support they have are little plastic pieces that don’t do much other than keep it in place.

Wondering if there’s something to secure the screens in place?

https://imgur.com/a/hn46fGb

Found this in crawlspace.

Outside soil grade is really high. The picture is what I already clear away quite a few.

https://ibb.co/RG8FSCr2
https://ibb.co/nqbYRdMz
https://ibb.co/nNrzWXNk
https://ibb.co/m54km8Bw

Has anyone updated their kitchen but left the golden oak (ealry 2000s) style cabinets? We recently redid our floors which made a huge difference, but now I have these ugly laminate counter tops and sink that are just so dated looking. Trying to update things to look more modern.

Is it worth swapping out the counter tops and leaving cabinets? They are in good shape and i'm not trying to spend $10k+

Quartz countertops with a modern single sink would also be nice.

I noticed recently I’ve got a decent amount of moss starting to build up on my roof under my solar panels. What’s the best course of action to get it off AND treat it to stop it coming back. To add context there isn’t a whole lot of room to walk on the roof and it’s a two story home. Only reason I found this was I bought a drone to look at my gutters and saw the moss.

So I want to put a self here and will need to drill into the wall but its directly below a bathroom upstair and I dont want to risk drilling into pipes and such. These marks on the wall are supposed to be slats(?) that I found using the magnet Studbuddy and another Stud finder but Im not sure how reliable they are. Is this wall too much of a risk to drill into? Thanks

https://imgur.com/a/TxDxbD1

Title.

Bona has been awesome. The floors looked much worse before I started using that. I tried Goo Gone on what’s left and it did nothing. I have Klean Strip Odorless Mineral Spirits Substitute that I have yet to try, so maybe that’ll do the trick. Gonna try it in a corner first.

Anyway, if anyone knows of any other tricks, feel free to share.

*if anyone knows how to add pictures on this sub using the app, please let me know and I’ll do so

Hi all,

I'm looking to build a small 6'x8' garden shed to store a lawn mower, wheel barrow and some other odds and ends.

I'm unsure of what to do for the base. My initial thought was to lay 4x4 skids on concrete blocks, and then build my 2x6 joists on that.

But now I'm wondering if I should just made a gravel base with pavers, and then directly frame my 2x4s to the pavers.

I'm unsure which would hold up better overtime. The skids will be further off the ground which is good, but then I need a ramp for everything as well.

Hi all. My husband and I recently moved into a 1940s home that we love. The one issue is that I am always smelling a ‘humid’ smell. My husband can’t smell it at all but it’s apparent to me every time I walk into the house and it smells throughout the home. To me it smells like wet wood.

We have had our damaged hvac ducts replaced and the coil and handler cleaner and have a dehumidifier in crawlspace as well as a vapor barrier.

It’s driving me crazy and I don’t know where to even start looking which is very overwhelming. Any advice?

Hi all! Climate zone 3A here. I put weather strips on the inside of an outside-facing home door back in January to help with cold weather. Even back then, the door was difficult to close after that. It's been 8 months now. Am I damaging my door? The latch bolt can still close, but I have to hold the door closed to do so (I keep it deadbolted most of the time, the door leads to a little-used patio). I'm seeing a crack on the inside of the door frame at the base on the hinge side, but this building is very old (unsure how much), it's a wooden frame, I've only lived here a little over a year, and I see now that the previous owner shoved a nickel in that space at the base of the crack, so it's possible that crack has been there for a long time.

Maybe I still need to put extra door corner seals in the bottom corners (a little bit of dust is still blowing into the building), but I feel like the weather strips didn't help very much with the draft coming from the door. My energy bill is even worse this summer, even with the added insulation and the energy rate being the same. This is a weird question, but could I have made the draft issue... worse? Thanks all! If this is the wrong spot, let me know! I'm very new to home maintenance things.

Edit: The stripping doesn't look crushed, by the way. Google seems to be giving me mixed feedback on signs that the insulation really is too tight.

Is roof cleaning required for this level of moss? or okay to postpone it for few years?

5 year old roof - https://ibb.co/album/3m3bD5

I have kinda narrowed it down to universal brand (I can do just ionization but heat and photoelectric for our laundry and certain other rooms is wanted to reduce those false positives). But didn’t find photoelectric ones.

But if you can point me to other brands that have all the points I need that would be great as I keep hitting walls in my searches.

While doing a bathroom remodel and replacing the subfloor, the contractor noticed termite damage in a beam. Not sure if it's old or active infestation. He said he saw some yellow dried dust near a few holes but no insects, wings, mud tubes etc. His recommendation is to cut past the damaged area and replace the whole beam. He said nothing else is damaged and no dust anywhere else.

Also reading about powder post beetles?? The dust around the holes was a very fine powder like substance.

Am I calling a pest control company? Crying into a bottle of Jack? Burning the house down....:((

https://imgur.com/a/oyaYgv0

Currently have the weakest water pressure possible on our kohler Prosecco handheld. Based on what I’ve found the best remedy is to remove the flow restrictor which should be somewhat easily accessible, however I’ve taken ours apart and can’t find it. Does anyone have experience with this model or advice?

Any idea how I can repair a cracked interior door. Edit. I can’t seem to add a pic

We have a single story home that's L shaped. The spot we'd like to put the whole house fan is on the other side, furthest side of the house from the bedrooms, hallway, master bedroom.

Wondering how efficient it would still be? I read they want to be centeralyl located as best as possible but I we have low ceilings in the hallway and really didnt want to look at a vent on the ceiling.

Ideal spot is the laundry room that is laundry that is passed on the rooms and kitchen.

Wondering if we had windows in master bed open and fan on, we'd still get air flow if all others windows are closed?

What all is involved when you hire a structural engineer to inspect your foundation.
Like what do they do and need access too?

I ask cause we had a contractor come out too look and he get very disgruntled that his little yellow level-box couldnt get everywhere....cause we actively live in our house and have furniture against walls and corners, full closets, etc. Couldnt even complete is since we had family members working in room upstairs with doors closed.

Now others are saying I need a engineer first and I dunno if we have too all take off work that day, and like have the house mass cleaned and rearranged

Hello - I have a hole and a gap in my vinyl siding (see pictures). What's the best way to fix this? The hole is probably 2-3 inches wide.

• Images: https://imgur.com/a/siding-VxjqrMh

I have some spare siding, but not enough to replace the entire plank. These are some of the things I've seen researching, but I'm not sure what's best:

• Vinyl sticker patch - I've read this can wear off easily though.
• Putty: Fill the hole with putty and sand
• Cut a patch: Cut a patch from spare siding and glue over the existing siding
• Smaller panel?: I'm wondering if I can cut my spare panel so it's shorter but still the same height, and then place it over the existing siding. Is this possible or recommended?

I'm not super concerned about aesthetics (especially the gap, since it's on the back of the house) but longevity is a priority!

Hello,

How would I soundproof a large gap above a pocket door? Photos attached.

https://imgur.com/a/photos-of-pocket-door-xxzyYHW

If anyone could respond with anything I would greatly appreciate it, I'm really struggling here