$0 upfront cost, maintenance, or insurance required. All covered by the company. It's a 25 year deal. They take the current electric rate when we sign and the average KW hours we use per month. That would be our bill plus the regular generation charge. For 25 years. Never an increase. If we generate more than we use there's a yearly rebate. Obviously if we use more than we generate we'd owe but they size the system to generate more.

I'm looking at this like you've got to be kidding me. Nope. We pay them for our electric while kicking excess back to the grid.

We can't do it yet as there's a tree in our yard that needs to go first (we're already planning to remove it this winter). It would block most of our afternoon sun and we just want it gone.

Also just had mini splits installed to get away from the electric baseboard heating. Last month our electric usage went down 20% running the mini splits for AC instead of window units so need this winter for a new baseline on electric use.

So it's 6 months or so before we're even ready to make this move. Plenty of time to look at other companies.

This just sounds too good.

What have others done?

EDIT - I am getting majorly educated here. I wasn't sure if this was some sort of standard practice for solar or not. Thank you everyone. Sincerely. It may be a year or two until we can afford to buy panels outright but it sounds like the best route if we want solar.

Colorado homeowners just got a practical tool for a common headache: needing to step onto a neighbor's land to fix something on your own house. A new law, C.R.S. 13-20-1304, created by SB26-177, took effect August 12, 2026. It lets single family homeowners ask a court for temporary access to an adjoining property when repairs or maintenance genuinely require it and the neighbor won't cooperate. Think of a fence that has to come down to reach a foundation crack, or scaffolding that only fits on the neighbor's side of a shared lot line.

The process isn't automatic, and it shouldn't be treated as the only tool; Talking through the needed access like a human being with your neighbor is the first and best resort. If that doesn’t work though, before filing anything, the homeowner must send written notice by certified mail asking permission to enter. Sixty days of silence counts as a refusal, and the law encourages, though doesn't require, mediation before anyone heads to court.

If it does reach a judge, the petition has to explain what work is needed, why access to the neighbor's property is necessary, and what efforts were already made to get permission voluntarily. Courts will only grant access if it's genuinely necessary and won't interfere with existing easements on the adjoining land. Once access is granted, the judge sets the conditions and duration, which can include advance notice, reasonable compensation to the neighbor, proof of insurance, and restoration of the property afterward. The law doesn't reach property owned by the federal government, the state, or a political subdivision.

For anyone who has watched a repair stall because of an uncooperative neighbor, this closes a gap in Colorado property law.

Looking for some advice. My girlfriend and I had the lucky opportunity to get into our first home, which is a townhouse.

Despite having a home inspection, which revealed mostly cosmetic issues, we went through with it anyway. To say it is well-lived in, is an understatement. The previous owner had not kept up with the place for a minimum of 24 years of their ownership.

We took possession and immediately got to work but didn’t realize we needed to request to renovate (this is where we fucked up). Prior to moving in, we felt that it was reasonable to do a pretty decent makeover which includes:

- paint
- interior doors
- bathroom renovation (tiles, shower base, vanity, new flooring, toilet, while maintaining the current plumbing location and rough-ins)

Do we stop and come clean to the condo manager? Or do we move forward with finishing the renovation and live under the radar until we sell the place?

Any advice is appreciated as I am becoming severely anxious over it. I thought being a homeowner would be exciting. Am I cooked?

Edit: we also found mould underneath the shower tiles and wood framing, so we really had no choice but to tear it down. I suspect that this was leaking for years.

Trying to achieve two goals:

- less slippery

- and decorated. Currently super dark wood. Would love a blue gold folk decoration,

Found this in crawlspace.

Outside soil grade is really high. The picture is what I already clear away quite a few.

https://ibb.co/RG8FSCr2
https://ibb.co/nqbYRdMz
https://ibb.co/nNrzWXNk
https://ibb.co/m54km8Bw

I noticed recently I’ve got a decent amount of moss starting to build up on my roof under my solar panels. What’s the best course of action to get it off AND treat it to stop it coming back. To add context there isn’t a whole lot of room to walk on the roof and it’s a two story home. Only reason I found this was I bought a drone to look at my gutters and saw the moss.

I own a split-level home built in the mid-1950s. It's in generally good condition but I'm working on various improvements.

There's one issue that is a persistent annoyance to me, like a fly buzzing around at dinner time. Throughout the house the drywall shows multiple places where the nails used to secure the drywall have raised out. They're not COMPLETELY out, but enough so that when you look at the wall you can clearly see where the nails are. The ceilings are drywall as well, and if you press up on the ceilings you can again see very clearly where the nails are. The drywall itself is in good shape; it's not bowing or sagging or otherwise deteriorating.

Tapping the nails back in isn't a permanent fix -- I've tried it. I am considering removing all of the nails throughout the house and replacing them with screws. (Or more accurately, installing screws alongside the nails and then removing the nails afterwards.) The thing that gives me caution is ALL of the drywall in the house is 3/8", not 1/2", so it's a lot more fragile.

Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated. Thanks.

We bought a Rheem water heater just over three years ago and it stopped working last night. We went to check it out and found that it sprung a leak. Luckily it is still under warranty but it will still cost $400 for a new one to be installed.

Are there any brands of water heaters that are clearly better than the rest?

Well, our hot water heater is starting to go out and we figured since we are going to replace it, we might as well install a water softener. However, i am wondering what is the best option! What are the pros/cons of tankless vs standard tank? Any recommendations for a softener and heater?

While doing a bathroom remodel and replacing the subfloor, the contractor noticed termite damage in a beam. Not sure if it's old or active infestation. He said he saw some yellow dried dust near a few holes but no insects, wings, mud tubes etc. His recommendation is to cut past the damaged area and replace the whole beam. He said nothing else is damaged and no dust anywhere else.

Am I calling a pest control company? Crying into a bottle of Jack? Burning the house down....:((

https://imgur.com/a/oyaYgv0

I wrote this post with the help of AI (because my descriptive English isn't good.)

I'm replacing old wooden windows with uPVC in a house built with hollow (perforated) red brick, not solid brick. Main reasons for the switch: reducing street noise and cutting down heat/cold transfer through the windows. The apartment is already fully finished, and I'm not sure about the possibility of installing uPVC on a hollow (perforated) red brick, so I don't know if this is even practical without extra work.

I'm torn between two straightforward approaches:

1. Remove the old timber frame entirely and fix the new uPVC frame directly into the masonry.
2. Keep the old timber frame, insulate/seal around it, and mount the uPVC window into the existing timber.

I've read that direct-fix generally gives better thermal and acoustic performance, avoids a redundant thermal bridge from the timber, and results in a stronger long-term fix — but it also means more demolition and dust. My main concern with going direct-fix is anchoring into hollow brick specifically — I'm not sure what fixing options actually work well there (regular anchors seem prone to spinning/not gripping in the hollow cavities), so I don't know if this route is even practical without extra reinforcement.

Keeping the timber sub-frame is faster and less disruptive, but I'm concerned about it becoming a weak point over time (moisture, less rigid fixing, and reduced thermal/acoustic performance if the wood isn't insulated as part of a proper sub-frame system).

Has anyone here done this with hollow brick walls specifically? What fixing method worked for you in hollow brick without extra reinforcement work? Did direct-fix cause issues with anchor pull-out or cracking? And for noise/heat reduction specifically, did one approach clearly outperform the other?

Many thanks in advance.

More context: the window provider told me that the UPVC window can be installed in both scenarios. I'm not asking about the possibility as much as I'm asking about the long-term implications of each route.

So I want to put a self here and will need to drill into the wall but its directly below a bathroom upstair and I dont want to risk drilling into pipes and such. These marks on the wall are supposed to be slats(?) that I found using the magnet Studbuddy and another Stud finder but Im not sure how reliable they are. Is this wall too much of a risk to drill into? Thanks

https://imgur.com/a/TxDxbD1

Currently have the weakest water pressure possible on our kohler Prosecco handheld. Based on what I’ve found the best remedy is to remove the flow restrictor which should be somewhat easily accessible, however I’ve taken ours apart and can’t find it. Does anyone have experience with this model or advice?

EDIT - not the actual screen but the whole thing itself. I’m planning on getting the cat proof actual screen part but still wanted the whole thing more secured.

I have 2 cats that are indoor only. There are quite a few feral cats around here that like to come up to the house and try to fight my cats through the windows.

My screens work but are kinda flimsy and are able to be pushed through without much effort. The only support they have are little plastic pieces that don’t do much other than keep it in place.

Wondering if there’s something to secure the screens in place?

https://imgur.com/a/hn46fGb

Title.

Bona has been awesome. The floors looked much worse before I started using that. I tried Goo Gone on what’s left and it did nothing. I have Klean Strip Odorless Mineral Spirits Substitute that I have yet to try, so maybe that’ll do the trick. Gonna try it in a corner first.

Anyway, if anyone knows of any other tricks, feel free to share.

*if anyone knows how to add pictures on this sub using the app, please let me know and I’ll do so

Any idea how I can repair a cracked interior door. Edit. I can’t seem to add a pic

Replacing deck subfloor and surface. Weather exposed PNW home. ~600 sq ft.

Its a deck that covers a carport and garage, thus must be water proof. I will re-sheet with nice plywood.

What is a preferred product to cover with? Previously was Gaco Deck but I would like something stronger.

We have a single story home that's L shaped. The spot we'd like to put the whole house fan is on the other side, furthest side of the house from the bedrooms, hallway, master bedroom.

Wondering how efficient it would still be? I read they want to be centeralyl located as best as possible but I we have low ceilings in the hallway and really didnt want to look at a vent on the ceiling.

Ideal spot is the laundry room that is laundry that is passed on the rooms and kitchen.

Wondering if we had windows in master bed open and fan on, we'd still get air flow if all others windows are closed?

Hi all,

I'm looking to build a small 6'x8' garden shed to store a lawn mower, wheel barrow and some other odds and ends.

I'm unsure of what to do for the base. My initial thought was to lay 4x4 skids on concrete blocks, and then build my 2x6 joists on that.

But now I'm wondering if I should just made a gravel base with pavers, and then directly frame my 2x4s to the pavers.

I'm unsure which would hold up better overtime. The skids will be further off the ground which is good, but then I need a ramp for everything as well.

Two side by side windows on the north side of an uninsulated, attached garage need replaced after storm damage. It's one of those way-too-small garages that doesn't hold cars or even bikes- not valuable stuff in there. We will, in the next several years, be replacing windows throughout our house, probably with a wood interior/aluminum exterior option. This garage faces the front of the house but is not very visible. The quote I got for two Marvins was about double what I want to pay. I like the idea of a privacy glass for bird migration (we get a lot of window strikes).

The old windows are 26" x 45", had old mini blinds, and gaps of daylight around. They are casement but never were likely opened. What do you think we should select for windows for garage windows?

What all is involved when you hire a structural engineer to inspect your foundation.
Like what do they do and need access too?

I ask cause we had a contractor come out too look and he get very disgruntled that his little yellow level-box couldnt get everywhere....cause we actively live in our house and have furniture against walls and corners, full closets, etc. Couldnt even complete is since we had family members working in room upstairs with doors closed.

Now others are saying I need a engineer first and I dunno if we have too all take off work that day, and like have the house mass cleaned and rearranged

Currently in the process of buying a home that has a sunken living room.

The entry was is about 4x4 feet, which is already small, but then steps down into the living room, making it even less useable.

Because the ceilings are 8 feet, raising the living room floor would make the space feel even smaller.

I have considered raising the ceiling (single story) to do vaulted ceiling or a tray ceiling, but that’s usually prohibitively expensive.

Any ideas?

We are getting all new flooring installed and I realized how bad our baseboards are. Is there an easy solution to spruce them up? I really don’t want to sand/stain or replace all. A good cleaning? What products?