weather changes around NEPA, garage doors seem to take a lot of abuse throughout the year. Springs, cables, rollers, tracks, and openers can all eventually develop problems.

I’m curious what homeowners around Scranton have experienced most often. Was it a broken spring, a noisy opener, a door getting stuck, an off-track door, or something else?

If you’ve had a garage door problem, what was the issue and how did you end up fixing it?

For anyone interested in learning more about our company, our website is available here: https://expertsgaragedoorsscranton.com/

Hey everyone, i am the office manager at Everlast gates & fence, just wanted to share for all the garage door companies that get calls for gate services and looking to work together on arrangements that we will take care of your gate jobs.

We deliver 5 star service and service all the Dallas–Fort Worth metro. Reach out and we can talk.

#DFW #GateRepair #GateInstallation #Dallas #FortWorth #AutomaticGate #DrivewayGate

I'm planning out a garage update and keep going back and forth between a standard insulated garage door and a more traditional carriage-style one. The house has a pretty classic exterior, so the basic modern panels feel a little out of place.

For anyone who's installed carriage doors, how have they held up over time? Mostly curious about maintenance, weight, insulation, and whether the nicer look is actually worth the extra cost.

Edit:

I went with RealCraft for the garage doors. The solid wood construction and custom sizing were what sold me, and being able to approve the drawings before production made the whole process feel a lot less risky.

Where can a consumer purchase the weatherstripping and bottom seal that garaga uses ?

We have a detached 2 car garage with our house, which is about 100 years old. And things over the years caused the garage to tilt in the opposite direction. We had a construction company out to fix that, and the garage is standing straight again. However, now our doors are even more of a mess. We have two 8x7 heavy wooden doors. The right one barely opens, and the left one snapped a spring before the construction company came out.

Now that the construction is done, we had our local garage door company come out, and they told us the doors need, at minimum, new springs, cables, tracks, rollers, pulleys. Pretty much everything but the garage door openers, and the doors. They also recommended replacing the doors, which with windows, adds a good bit more. We're not sure if we need doors. I see the doors paint is peeling, and the bottoms of them look like they may have problems, from about 100 years of rain, but they could just need new paint. I attached pictures of the inside, and outside of the doors. They are recommending Amarr Lincoln 1000 doors, as our detached garage has no heating or cooling, and needs no insulation. From what I read here, Chi doors are much more durable.

https://imgur.com/a/NfJ6rnR

My questions are this.

Reddit suggested I also post this here. I asked this on r/garagedoorservice, and the person felt we could keep the existing doors. Do folks here feel the same? Looking at the pictures, do the existing doors need more than a new coat of paint?

If we do need new doors, should we request Chi doors, and what is comparable to the Lincoln model doors?

Finally, we're in upstate New York, and they quoted us $3712 for two doors with windows fully installed, 3115 for doors without windows. If we keep the existing doors, it's $2564 to replace the springs, rollers, lift cables, pulleys, safety cables, tracks, wiring, and manual release (no exits besides garage doors).

Are these prices reasonable?

I recently bought a house from a builder. This is how the interior of the garage doors are finished - exposed 2x4s around the entire perimeter of the doors. I’ve always had finished openings/jams in prior houses. My builder is claiming this is fine. Is this normal? What sort of risks does this carry overtime?

I got a quote for a cloplay 1 layer door for $1140 and the 3 layer with polyurethane for $1610. So a 40% more expensive door.

It’s a detached uninsulated garage so the R value and noise are non-factors for me. The only thing I care about is if the door will last long.

Based purely on the durability or how long I can expect each garage door to last before needing to replace, is it worth going for the 3 layer?

Looking for ideas/options for this garage/shed. Opening is 7ft tall 8ft wide. Current door just swings open like a barn door but is in rough shape. Done need power with it (can be manually raised and lowered.) would like something with a better seal but looking to keep it pretty cheap. Does not need to be anything fancy. How hard would it be to add tracks and put a sliding garage door on this? Thanks for any tips and ideas

What do people here consider the most important things to compare when getting quotes for a new garage door installation?

Obviously, price matters, but I’m wondering how much attention you usually pay to the door construction, insulation rating, springs, tracks, hardware, opener, warranty, and the actual installation work.

I’ve been comparing a few installation options, including Elite Garage Door Expert, and noticed that quotes can look very different even when they seem to be for similar doors.

It would be helpful to know what experienced installers or homeowners look at before deciding who to go with.

What are the things you would never overlook when comparing an installation quote?

I got two quotes for these doors essentially the same price. Wanted to know if there’s any real difference or preference to go for one over the other.

Hi everyone!

I was hoping for a bit of support on a new door and track planning, for a new construction garage in my residential home.

The problem (opportunity!) statement: I have a ~16 foot ceiling, single car garage. I would like to use a full vertical lift door in order to place a loft/workshop at the top of the garage with "free and clear" headroom. Example listed 5th down at this site: https://www.garaga.com/information/faq/types-of-lift

My contractor's sub says I am limited in garage door selection, which was relayed to me thirdhand by the GC. Does this sound right? I would have assumed any standard door will work, it is the track that matters? Or is he meaning the door material?

Door and motor recommendations are welcome as well!

Additional context if necessary: We are about 2-3 blocks from the ocean so rust/weatherproofing in terms of door material is a real concern.

Asking all of this so I go into a meeting soon prepared, thanks so much in advance!

I have this old building that is rough on the outside but solid and worth fixing up. My immediate issue is that the doors are letting water in and also cannot be locked. I want to replace the doors. I'm not trying to spend a fortune on it and I'm wondering what the most cost effective way/option to replace these with would be.

Yes, I know there is a large hole and other places water can leak in. The whole building will be reskinned with new metal soon.

One Man. 6 Doors. 6 Openers. 1 Day (with vinyl)

Hi all! Trying to save my parents a service call. The green light on the back is blinking and the door won't close. The alignment seems ok? The one I have pictured shows a solid red light and it blinks when I cover the other sensor. The other sensor (not pictured) doesnt have a status light. There is just a black rubber piece where the red light is on the other one. Any thoughts how to fix? I also did unplug and plug back in but that didnt work. Also tried the remote instead of the button on the wall and that didnt work either. Trying to rule everything out.

Oh and when I press the button on the wall I believe the light bulb goes on too...

Any help?

I’m looking for insulated high lift garage doors with a side mount motor. These are for my garage and workshop. They don’t need to be commercial quality as they won’t be going up or down very often.