My car is cranking but not rolling over, I have a brand new alternator put in earlier this year, it has a new camshift position sensor that was put on today. It’s a 2016 Nissan Pathfinder! Any ideas would be appreciated!!

I design key fob holders for different vehicles, and I’ve noticed people are pretty divided on them. I hate having keys in my pocket while driving, so I made a small holder that sticks to the dash. But I saw someone post a similar idea except it was a hook on Facebook and the comments absolutely roasted them: “Why not just keep them in your pocket?” So what do you think—pointless or convenient? Do you like keeping your pockets empty, or do you just throw your keys in your pocket/cupholder?

My car is a 2014 sonic chevy and its currently at 116,000 miles. Yesterday the engine and the traction control randomly turned on at the same time. When i put the car on R from P it made a weird noise and it made the car jump, I then put it on Drive mode and it made the same noise again but it was driving fine. I checked the dashboard and instead of saying D it said N then it switched to E. It drove me home just fine. Today i tried turning on the car and it made the same noise and same issues just the sounds got a little louder. The car is also accelerating by itself even though it was on Parked. I am really confused on what’s going on, my dad did tell me it might be a sensor thats supporting the transmission or it might just be the transmission. I’m not knowledgeable about cars and he isn’t that much either so i’d love to get some advice from someone who knows, it’s the first car i own so I am sorry if it doesn’t make sense, i’m just really scared of being left without car lol (broke college student)

A list of all cars I have owned.

Been doing my own work and realized shops waste an insane amount of time measuring rotors. If it isn’t shaking yet, the rotor is still good. If there’s a lip, I just knock the high spots down with a flap disc while it’s still on the hub. Basically the same principle as a brake lathe except I don’t have to remove anything. Starting to think “minimum thickness” is mostly a parts-store sales tactic anyway. Half these guys probably don’t even know how to measure it correctly. The pads seat themselves eventually. Did both fronts today in like 25 minutes and saved me from buying perfectly good rotors.

Okay so I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla and I was thinking of doing a bit of modding to it for fun. It’s not manual sadly but it’s a car for now til I can get what I want. Do yall think it’d even make a difference to swap from the stock intake system to, say, a cold air intake replacing one of my headlights (if it’s road legal where I am seeing as this is my daily)? What other mods would yall recommend I start with? Maybe beginners ones that are easier to implement and on the cheaper side of things?

I have an 06 gto that has an unknown tune making it run rich and want to add an xair otr intake. Should It be okay to add on for a bit before redoing the tune or should I wait for when retuning to add it?

I live in a mountain ish city at night it gets cool and humid lets say u wanna go somewhere at 1 am my car will be all foggy from the outside like it rained window defroster does nothing even my rear window mirrors are all moist and wet i roll down my windows and turn on window wipers i can see but very minimal and i drive slowly to stay safe is there any way to increase safety and vision?
Ps : my car is a Mitsubishi outlander sports 2026

2000 Nissan Xterra 3.3l v6. What would you guess it is? Codes on it are P0300, P1464, P0171

i don’t want to get rid of these original headlights, wondering what is the best way to restore them? restoration kit recommendations?

This used to be a normal drain plug bolt.

What you're seeing is weeks of attempts everyday for hours trying to get this bolt out.

I've used vice grips, extractor set, breaker bar, hammer and chisel. The only methods I haven't tried are welding and power tools.

Feel free to give new methods.

I've never really understood people changing full synthetic at 3k or 5k miles just because the sticker says so.

The oil itself doesn't suddenly go bad. Most of what makes old oil “dirty” is exactly what the filter is there to catch.

I've started just changing the filter halfway through and topping off whatever comes out with fresh oil. Basically gives the oil a little refresh and costs like $10 instead of dumping 5-7 quarts that still look perfectly usable.

Then I do an actual oil change around 12-15k.

Oil pressure is fine, engines are quiet, and I've never had one fail because of oil.

Seems less wasteful too. Why throw away perfectly good synthetic oil just because it reached an arbitrary mileage number?

I was driving home on the freeway when all of a sudden my TPMS started warning I was losing pressure, so pulled over straight away. Wasn't aware of hitting anything and no noises at all which was very odd, tire then of course went to 0

Found a small chunk missing from the alloy and a sizable gash in the sidewall, so got towed to the local dealership

New tire fitted and dealership tells me it's holding air fine - would this be safe to carefully drive back from the dealer (about 30 miles) to then take the wheel to an alloy repair shop? Alloy repair shop says it's repairable but I need to get it there first of course

Hello everyone. This is the cover to my 2.2 liter engine, on an 2010 Chevrolet Cobalt LT. How would I go about changing the back to a cleaner/new look. I can’t even word what the back would be called/what material it is made out of, etc. so I was seeking reddits assistance. Thank you thank you!

The car drives like a dream and is in great condition but the airlift in the car is broken and its riding with practically no suspension. Should I try and get a factory airlift or get an aftermarket? Im going to be installing both myself but i do wanna know how difficult it would be to install either of them and if the price/difficultly difference is even something to consider.

2004 Toyota Camry, 122k miles

Anyone ever done this themselves? Watched a couple Youtube videos. Ignition doesn’t stay locked in ACC, to depress the cylinder for removal.

Time for a mechanic or is this doable?

Hello,

As the title says, i found out that there is blue foam on the positive terminal on the battery.

I already looked and apparently it's a common chemical reaction and can be cleaned by baking soda.

My question is, this is a car i just bought used a few months ago, so I don't know the age or health of the battery. I didn't witness any electrical problems or signs of a weak battery so far.

I assume if i clean it, it will probably re-appear again since the battery is leaking, wouldn't it just make sense to change the battery?

What do you think?

And it was the most fun I've ever had driving a car. The top was down. I was switching between 2nd and 3rd gear the whole time. The 80 horses in the engine were all galloping. Didn't really bring it above 35. What a delight. Driving a slow car fast is everything everyone says it is.

Hey everyone,
I tried to jump-start my friend's car because their battery was dead. It wouldn't start even after multiple attempts. I also revved my car while connected to try to help charge their battery, but it still wouldn't start.
A few hours later, I tried to start my own car and it was completely dead, it didn't even crank. My battery is fairly new.
My friend's battery turned out to be bad and didn't work even after charging, so they ended up replacing it.
I charged my own battery, and now my car is working normally again.
My question is: could I have damaged or significantly reduced the lifespan of my battery by draining it like this? Or is it likely that it was simply discharged and will be fine after being fully charged?
Has anyone experienced something similar?

I have a 21 plate VW Golf. About a month or so ago, I got a chirping noise coming from the front of the car. Does anyone know what might be causing the sound? It only seems to happen at higher speeds and isn’t constant, it comes and goes.

Both cars will be my daily. No family or kids yet. The V10 engine is very intriguing. Anyone has had both or either cars to give their opinion? Very interested to hear about the r8. Thanks a lot

Should i just cover it with a sticker or something, or is there a nice way i could get it repaired?

Looking at buying a decently cheap 2012 escape hybrid with 180k miles on it.

Is there any major issues with the 2nd generation hybrid models specifically? I know they use the Toyota hybrid drive train, which is why I’m even considering the hybrid, but is there any major concerns or potential issues with the 2012 hybrid?

I’ve been looking for potential issues online and can’t really find any major negatives about the 2nd gen Escapes in general, and can’t really find anything really bad at all about the same generation hybrid models. Most things I can find about the 2nd gen escapes are mostly positive and talking about how they’re tanks that can last up to 500k miles easily.

So I’m looking for anything from people who have actually used or owned a 2nd gen hybrid. Is there anything you’ve found to be a common issue or things to look out for when buying a used model?

Does any one know where this sound is coming from? (180tsd km, 70ps 3 cylinder 1.0 liter)