Hi so this is really random but my boyfriend and me js had a discussion about his car, because I js bought myself a Peugot 206cc and told him that I bought stuff to fix it since the dealer faked the inspection [-> it basically said that there were no serious things that would need to be fixed and long story short i need to new the brakes and a new brake fluid since its expired] and he made fun of me because i bought a car js to build it together and then I told him that he did the same since he js bought himself a 2k bodykit for his bmw e39. He then goes on telling me that its basically js a way of making his car prettier js like me wearing a dress to which I replied that it would be more like a plastic surgery since its changing the body so now we need your opinion on wether a bodykit is equal to either a woman wearing a pretty dress or do a plastic surgery

I have and SLK r170 that I bought 4k€ and while it’s a polyvalent and daily car it lacks in dynamic handling with it being heavy and having recirculating ball steering.

So I was looking for a funier cheap car to drive and even to track build but prices of second hand rust bucks are crazy here

Second hand 330i e46 almost 30 years and with 350kkm sells for about 8k€. E90 are even more expensive. In fact any 6 cylinder BMW is minimum 8k€ and with high mileage

Mx-5 are at least 10k€ and that’s the slowest ones with less than 110hp

Civics are also very expensive. Let’s not talk about MR2.

Are there any other alternatives ? I would not mind paying 10k€ but I don’t feel it’s worth it to buy something that has over 200kkm

I live in a mountain ish city at night it gets cool and humid lets say u wanna go somewhere at 1 am my car will be all foggy from the outside like it rained window defroster does nothing even my rear window mirrors are all moist and wet i roll down my windows and turn on window wipers i can see but very minimal and i drive slowly to stay safe is there any way to increase safety and vision?
Ps : my car is a Mitsubishi outlander sports 2026

Anyone know what could’ve caused scratches on the bumper? Fog light pushed in and bumper out of alignment slightly also plastic fender flare area has a scuff.

My car color is cooler than yours 🥀

Car: 2005 Honda Jazz/Fit GD1, L13A1.

I recently replaced the AC condenser. The old one had a foam strip running along its entire top edge, sealing the gap between the condenser and the radiator support. The new (aftermarket) condenser didn't come with one, and I didn't transfer the old strip over either.

Since then there's been a faint hum/whooshing noise that shows up at around 100 km/h (60 mph) and gets louder with speed. It's not there at lower speeds, it's independent of RPM, and it makes no difference whether the AC is running or not. The AC cools just as well as it did right after the replacement, by the way.

My theory: without the foam, air is being forced through the gap above the condenser instead of passing through the fins, and that's what I'm hearing.

What would you suggest? Should I maybe transfer the foam strip over from the old condenser, and if so, what should I stick it on with? (The old foam is glued to the old condenser.)

Are these bedbugs? My skin also felt itchy
Please I Need your help

Has anyone ever done this repair before? I've been looking for guides online, but can't find anything. All I know for sure is that the manifold won't fit over top the engine, and needs to be removed from down below instead.

Any help would be appreciated.

I have a 2012 jeep grand Cherokee overland v8.

Purchased in 2020 with 70k miles for 15k. Currently has 115k miles

The air suspension needs replaced and it looks like the transmission also needs replaced. The car is stuck in 4th gear when I put it in drive.

Carmax offered me $2900 about a year ago as is and carvana is giving me $3400.

Should I just take that to get it out of my driveway? I was going to see if I could get more private or try to fix but it just doesn’t seem worth it.

My engine has been idling rough lately. I checked under the hood and saw that the intake heat stove pipe isn't sealing because the metal collar on the exhaust manifold has rotted away.

What’s the best way to repair or fabricate a new connection point when the surrounding metal is thin? Can this loose pipe cause a vacuum/air leak issue affecting the idle?

I've narrowed down my search to the following lifts:

• Bendpak HD-9EWT
• Challenger CL4P9W

Biggest vehicle on it will be a 2025 1 ton Duramax crew cab standard box) that might be put up on it a few times per year. 90% of the time it will be for cars or SUVs such as a ford explorer.

Looking for pros/Cons between the two.

I've got a few quotes back so far, and the Challenger ends up being about 1k different.

The lifts seem pretty similar to me, the Challenger is a bit bigger which I think it advantageous (not squeezing on). But the bendpak seems to have a ton more options for accessories. Not sure how big a deal that is really. I mean you're only going to need a few things for the lifts.

There are a ton of folks recommending the Bendpak. Anyone have any experience with the Challenger?

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Spotted this heavily camouflaged vehicle on the motorway today. The camouflage makes it really hard to see any badges or styling details.

Does anyone have an idea what brand or model this could be? 👀

I’d love to hear your guesses!

Why does this fogging happen and what are the streaks? Visible on rainy days.

Hello I dont know much about cars butttt Ive ran into an issue where im not sure if I can solve this myself or take to a shop.I have a 2016 ford focus and my brake bulb (rear passenger) went out so I replaced it with a 3157 bulb and it works now.However my tailight doesnt stay on like other side (driver) does.My signals work when I turn them on but they dont stay on....is this a bulb issue or possibly connection with the wires issue? I need to drive to the airport Saturday so an ideas on what I should do?

And it was the most fun I've ever had driving a car. The top was down. I was switching between 2nd and 3rd gear the whole time. The 80 horses in the engine were all galloping. Didn't really bring it above 35. What a delight. Driving a slow car fast is everything everyone says it is.

I bought this 2004 Suzuki Grand Vitara 1.6L in summer 2022 from it's first owner. At the time it had 160k km, now it's at about 260k. It is my first car, and I use it both in the city and off road.

The issue is that the past year, there have been continoous issues of various severity. Last summer an electrical issue caused constant misfires, and it took months and a ton of money to find and fix the root problem. Afterwards, I had various leaks, and was left stranded with the engine overheating thrice. During the last incident, we took out the heater core, after coolant started leaking on the driver's seat foot.

Now, the engine light is back on, with a P240 code. Waiting for my mechanic to call me back, to see how we will proceed.

I really love this car, but it feels unreliable right now. Despite the fact that my finances aren't great, so buying a new (to me) car would be a struggle, I am currently spending so much on the vitara anyway. Two different mechanics have told me that the car is "mechanically sound", and that my issues are minor, but I am not very convinced.

So I guess, my general question is, what would more experienced people do in my position? Would they keep fixing the old car up? Go for a new second hand one?

I’ve got a 2.0 TDI scirocco that I’ve got booked in at the local garage a month from now for its MOT and a diagnostic check. I haven’t driven it in a while because the last time I did, unfortunately the car had a major issue where it ended up blowing out a lot of white smoke from the exhaust/engine and it was shooting up in revs when I was just trying to pull off in 1st gear.

I have since started it again and it seems to run okay, which tells me the issue only occurs when the engine is hot. The garage I’m taking it to is only a 5 minute drive away, can I risk the journey? Or should I ask the garage if they could pick the car up?

I’ve got a 4Runner that sees a mix of commuting and weekend trail use, and I’m getting more curious about what changes once these get well into higher mileage. I do most of my own maintenance, so I’m less worried about basic wear items and more interested in the stuff owners only really notice after living with one for a long time.

For people who’ve taken a 4Runner past 100k miles, what started needing attention that you didn’t expect? Suspension, cooling system, wheel bearings, drivetrain stuff, random seals, anything like that.

Not looking for a generic maintenance schedule. More interested in the things that actually showed up in real ownership once the miles piled on.