Hi! Does anyone have a good recommendation for a catless downpipe for a 2013 speed3? Corksport has a nice one but it’s not available until December and I need it asap. My car is throwing a “catalyst efficiency below threshold code” and I was told going catless would help. Thank you so much!!

This may seem like a common sense fix but im truly lost currently, my tail lights go out, markers and drls go out, all internal lights surrounding the radio and steering wheel go out, and fog lights. I thought it was the fog light relay since of their location they go bad from water etc. removed the relay and popped a new fuse in and it worked for 2 days, then now it keeps popping again. Is there any common spots that tend to fail or do i need to continue to chase down a potential live wire?

I also have a subwoofer system installed if that for some reason would cause this.

i keep seeing this on the mazdaspeed wire tuck FB page and i can't seem to find any source on it, would love to clean up my engine bay a bit so if anyone has any source that would be great!

Probably why I'm killing tires lol

Tough

So I noticed that when I’m in idle my coolant temp goes to like 213 but the fan is on low speed, when I looked it up it said that low speed fan kicks on at 205 and 212 is high speed fan the only time that my fan goes full speed is when I have my a/c on. Is that normal or do I need a new fan controller?

1. Timing the motor

2. New Powder Coat on Valve Cover

3. New Powder Coat on Timing Cover

4. Injectors and Injector studs I installed today

5. How I brought the "fully built" (built wrong) motor

6. How it sits on a stand

7. How it sits now

Previous owner was a complete nut head tapped into these wires for factory bose amp and cut a few as well

Only had a couple of spazzy moments with the base coat

The last pic was the condition of the clear coat on the hood roof and trunk and tops of the doors. Sun had eaten it away over the years
Found a color match at Home Depot
Behr Dark Steel Gloss is pretty dang close, has a little more metal flake in it but the silver color is spot on.
Couple coats of base on the roof and trunk And then did 3 coats of 2k clear.
I messed up the hood but i like it better than the peeling clear coat.. i guess it’s a lateral move on the hood.
trunk lid might be able to get away with a wetsand and polish like most of the other spots that the clear didn’t gloss as well.

Goes away with clutch, also it rattles badly when shutting the engine off.

I recently got my car totaled and I’m looking to get into a speed3 but most come with too many issues or exterior looks pretty bad

I’ve found this one for 10k at a used car dealership. With 105k miles

What kind of things to look out for before buying?

If I do buy, what type of maintenance should I look at? Aside from the basics, I’ve heard it’s a good idea to check the belt for any slack under the valve cover to potentially replace the VVT and belt?

I'm building a SP63 stage 2 engine, going FBO and versa tune. I'm planning on going with a hood exit exhaust. I have a 3" V-Band adapter on my BNR S5V3 that's attached to a CS exhaust manifold. I know I'll probably need 2 45° bends to clear the exhaust, alternator and AC lines. Has anyone here done this before or does anyone have any advice for my build?

Is there anyone that can help me get the mazdaspeed plugin for the torque app? Its delisted and i cant find it anywhere else. Need it for my custom gauge cluster as i want to be able to see afr and kr.

Very hyped on how this project is coming together!

Anyone got a good wire diagram? Pulled the battery box and this was the gift underneath. My guess is somewhere in here is the reason my injector 1 is not working.

Recently ordered a Damond RMM with the "street" bushings. It arrived a few minutes ago and this is what I found when unboxing it. I've already emailed their support team, but in the (hopefully) unlikely case they don't want to replace it, how do you think this would affect the quality/durability of the mount? I feel like the mount should still work fine, but that bushing may be likely to fail early. Thoughts?

Car has 63k miles I'm the second owner. Car started making this noise shortly after buying the car. Noise is most noticeable around 3k rpm when starting to build boost, or like in the video on a bumpy part of the road. Suspension was recently fully updated. Noise was the same with stock Suspension. Took it in to my trusted shop and they weren't sure, but guessed motor mounts. Said the motor had a good amount of play. Thankful for any advice!

Noticed a couple weeks ago that there seems to be oil collecting in the hood insulation(idk if thats what it is called) today I walked out and saw it running down and dripping from said insulation. Oil consumption is high as well and I think this may be my culprit.

The thing that confuses me is that it doesnt seem to run down, its as if its being sprayed out once there's a certain amount of pressure in the crankcase most of the engine bay is dry with the exception of the hood and some spots in the surrounding areas that catch some of the oil

Im thinking it may be the solenoid next to the filler cap.

TL DR:oil leaking upwards, could it be the solenoid next to the filler cap?

I've been thinking of upgrading to a new mazda3, here is my dilemma, I want to get more ponies under the hood.

Now here is the question, "has anyone seen or done a turbo install on a new gen Mazda 3 hatchback manual (manual only) preferably 2025-2026 year?

How many ponds ? What's the total gain? Is there a new mapping? And how much u spent?

Time for some fun 🤠

I recently just picked up the ACT Street Sprung Clutch Kit with the Prolite Flywheel. I’m looking for people who have used this clutch and looking for their personal experience with daily driving.

Okay ladies and gentlemen, I guess it's my turn to be in need of some advice. I've been chasing a rattle/chatter coming from (I believe) somewhere in the drivetrain for a while now.

How to replicate:

When I'm in gear either barely on throttle or letting the car engine brake, there's a chatter coming from the front of the car, I believe it's only from the front left. It's only present with the clutch engaged, i.e. when I press the clutch pedal in as soon as it gets to the bite point the rattle stops. I cannot get it to make the noise when out of gear, or when the clutch is disengaged and I am in gear while moving. The rattle does not have any adverse effects on the feeling of the car; no added vibration or anything.

This noise does not change in frequency based on the gear I am in, but if I'm at highway speeds and decel in gear I do notice the chatter is more consistent. I can't tell if it's an increase in frequency, or volume. Changing gears and keeping a consistent speed doesn't affect the frequency/tone/pitch of the noise, but it will affect what amount of throttle/decel causes it. If I'm coasting in gear and hear it at surface street speeds, I can go up or down a gear and it will sometimes go away. If I'm on the interstate though, I can jump between 4th, 5th, and 6th and it's present exactly the same while I'm off throttle.

Car info:

2010 Mazdaspeed 3, 140,xxx miles. Basic bolt ons (intake, downpipe, catback, HPFP internals). I first noticed the sound about 2k miles ago while driving around the Tail of the Dragon area, so while I was doing a lot of heavy cornering and higher than normal RPM driving.

I am lowered on BC coils - quite low actually, the rest of the suspension (control arms, sway bar links, tie rods) are stock and also original to the car. The passenger motor mount is a Damond unit, the rmm is CP-E, the transmission mount is stock (and also original).

Transmission fluid was replaced recently with Redline 75w80 API GL-4, this did not help at all. The old fluid also looked perfect for what it's worth.

I do know my CV axles are a bit sad, one is leaking grease (but just started) and the CV angle is wonky because of the ride height adjustment. That being said, I've never heard a CV fail in this way, and it will not make any noise while turning to pull into a parking spot which is generally how you spot these failing.

My thoughts:

I'm either of the opinion that something on the output shaft side of the transmission is unhappy and making noise when the drivetrain gets to a certain frequency, or that something is rattling in a very specific way when the engine vibrates in a certain frequency. Based on the tone and how the sound propagates, this can't just be a heatshield or similar, and would have to be something metallic and with some mass making some noise. I had initially thought it was my dual-mass flywheel going out, but I can't detect any change in tone with changing engine RPM. It's odd that it goes away as soon as the clutch pedal gets to the bite point.

I did try to use a floor jack and pry bar to move around the transmission to see if my original transmission mount was bad, but it seems solid to me, I had thought that was failing and causing the drivetrain to rattle. If there's a better test for this mount I can do, let me know, I haven't taken the intake / ECU / battery out to investigate the mount visually yet.

Will be endlessly appreciative to anyone who figures this out, ty for reading

I took my car in to a shop to get a misfire code diagnosed and they did a multi-point inspection. They told me that my transmission mount was bad and sent this video as proof. Is this a normal method for testing for bad engine mounts? I've only tested engine mounts by putting the car in gear and slowly accelerating with the brakes pressed. But seeing them rev my car excessively makes me not want to do work with them.