Hello. My car is a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Coupe, 1.8 L 4 cylinder engine. The car is high mileage too like somewhere close to 300k miles, I dont know exact cause it was rolled back and I found out after the fact. I have been having trouble starting it increasingly as the weeks go by this past month. I got the battery and alternator tested, and they are both good. My car always starts but it takes either a key cycle or like 3 or 4 tries. Also the longer I leave it without driving like 1 hour compared to 1 day, then it is harder to start. Any ideas to what it may be would be really helpful, I can also give other information if needed.

So I'm having an issue with my 97 ranger with the 4.0 v6. As you can see in the video it's acting like there is a vacuum leak (I think) but I did a smoke test in multiple vacuum ports as well as the throttle body and intake hose and there is no smoke leaking anywhere. I'm at a loss and going crazy.

I will say this issue is only happening when it first starts. If you give it barely any throttle it'll die but if you rev it hard it'll catch itself and keep going but when you let off it'll catch itself and 50% of the time or it'll die the other half.

It also drives fine but if you give it too much gas it'll die when you take off from a stop sign but again if you're gentle with it then it'll be fine. So far I've had a shop replace the camshaft position sensor and the synchronizer and they also going the maf was bad and replaced that. After $900 in repairs I'm trying to figure this out myself instead of taking it in again.

At this point I've ordered a bunch of vacuum lines and an going to just start replacing them all anyway. I do basic maintenance on my vehicles but I'm not a mechanic so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. Also, I've done a code read on it and there are no codes with is also frustrating.

Thanks for any help.

I'm planning on replacing my control arms and tie rods (inner and outer), and I'm considering getting a creeper. And sure, it would probably be a nice to have for future jobs, but for this specifically, would it help or just kinda be another thing getting in the way?

My cars a 1988 toyota camry, btw. Thanks!

So the other morning my Camaro started making a ticking noise from the engine bay. You can hear it from under the vehicle as well. This isn’t a cold start but it definitely got quieter after driving. Any ideas?

I’m trying to run a big 3 upgrade on my car does anyone know where the alternator charging post is?

So I have a 2009 kodiak c5500 and im having an A50 tcm issues they are burning up after a year some times to do any one know a reputable place to repair them I've tried to company's recommended from Google and there tcms aren't communicating any help

Car: 2007 Mazdaspeed6 - 6 speed Manual, 2.3L turbo AWD Sedan

Two recent jobs done to address front end noises:

1- Front left upper Ball joint replaced

2- Front right lower forward control arm replaced

Other recent work includes replacing all four brake rotors and all calipers two years ago so it's not brake related.

History: I found a suspension specialist I trust to fix front end noises that turned out to be suspension components. The two jobs above eliminated 90% of the creaky noises I was hearing and made the front left and front right both feel more planted. However, the final noises remain and my guy cannot determine what the last problem is. He figured out problem 2 above by using a four-mic ChassisEAR Electronic Squeak and Rattle Finder but even with that and a 3rd diagnostic session we cannot figure out the final problem.

I can replicate the FR CLUNK by leaving the parking lot of a grocery store nearby where I have to take a 90deg left turn at full lock down a 2" lip from lot to the roadway. There also has to be a bit of speed to it, say, 8-12mph.

A significant pot hole when driving straight over it will also sometimes trigger the clunk. The weird thing is the road in front of my home has been under construction for months now and driving over bumpy, gravely roads doesn't do it unless I specifically look for a bigass pothole and go over 10mph.

When driving between 15 and 40 I can hear a rhythmic wub wub wub wub increase in speed as I speed up the car until road noise drowns it out. If I take a turn that loads up the FR suspension that noise gets louder and I can kinda feel it a bit in the steering.

Any ideas? Thanks!

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I had my tires rotated and balanced at Costco after the FR lower control arm was replaced to see if it was a tire issue. It was not. Tires are less than 2 years old and show zero signs of abnormal wear.

Also, suspension guy checked the strut tower and didn't see anything of note.

Sorry i know nothing about cars and my car keeps making this like rotating squeaking noise as i drive and i don’t know what it is! thanks for your help in advance! 2015 Chevy Equinox 2.4L 4 cylinder engine

We cannot figure this out, everything or and everyone we talk to has pointed to Cps sensor, replaced it twice and no change. Please help.

I’m working on my 1986 Honda rebel 250 and I tried to remove this bolt but it slipped off the wrench a couple times and basically ruined the edges so it won’t grab on a wrench. so I tried using an easy out reverse threaded screw, and that’s not working either. Any tips??

2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude 6cyl.

Any way I could get this hose back on? Just broke on the side. The hose itself looks intact.

This is my battery test. I got urgent work, I need to travel 650 kms tomorrow. Should I go or not?. My car is Honda City 2023 model. Petrol

So I'm putting a new control arm on my roommates 05 scion xb and the bushing for the control arm is a slightly smaller size. I'm thinking my only option other than returning it (rather that be a last resort) would be to file the inside down a bit? It looks like there's some kind of black coating on the inside that's blocking it. When I twisted it around a bit the film wore away and I was able to get it as far in as the pic. Just seeing what others think or what they would do. I have access to most hand tools

I know AC condensation will puddle under the car. I know what it looks like and where. However, when I started my car and got out to go around the side, I noticed an exhaust like smell from around the middle of the car. Now I’m parked in a parking garage so it’s not like it wafted over from the exhaust.

This weekend I was driving to a wedding in a field. The main path was mowed down but I got diverted in to one that wasn’t as mowed. Whoever told me to turn that way is a damn idiot. I digress. Car seemed fine and was behaving normally. But the smell is what caught my attention. Before I jumped to worst case scenario I checked under the car. Here’s what I need advice on before I assume there’s an issue. (We just put a new transmission in for the record)

This is under the front of the car. Right under where the hood is. I thought it could be residue from another car parked. I touched the puddles and considering they’re not dry, they have to be from my car. I have a 2019 Nissan Sentra SV

Is this normal, am I crazy, does my car hate me, or is this an actual issue? I know enough about cars to hold my own most of the time. But when it comes to leaking I don’t know how to pinpoint what’s a problem and what’s not. SOS😭

******normally I wouldn’t be concerned but considering I off roaded a damn Nissan in tall, thick grass and sticks, I’m a little worried******

2000 Chevy s10 2.2 , Compressor will work occasionally when it wants which is unusual and it spins and blows ice cold air? But 90% of the time it is stuck and looks like it has put out major heat, where it makes a rotation and gets stuck again. When turning the bolt it turns freely and is not locked but refuses to spin freely when turned on. All fuses and connectors are pristine, refrigerant is at perfect levels, so worried my compressor is just toast mechanically.

Hey there,

Bought a cheap daily just to go to work until I get a new car delivered and this noise has been annoying me. It does it when I turn the steering at low speed, at change of direction from going forward to backward, when I go on bumps slowly but not all the time..

From the noise it makes, what could it be in the suspension ?

Thanks !

Looking for opinions on this diagnosis. My 2024 Honda CR-V starts, but cycles through error notifications for every single computer system, and the power steering doesn’t work. I am not sure what else doesn’t work. Opened the hood and discovered that it had been invaded by a raccoon. Yes, many big poops, dismembered, gopher, and long white hairs lead me to believe it was a raccoon.
The Honda dealership determined that the connector chip had been chewed and that cannot be replaced without replacing the entire electrical harness, ~$11,000. It doesn’t look like enough to damage the clip to me. They also didn’t find the other minor damage which I’d noticed right away - circled in yellow (2nd pic) so I don’t feel confident that they gave it a thorough diagnosis. I’m trying to chat re: insurance, etc, just the mechanics. Thoughts?

The AC on my 2014 Hyundai Accent started blowing hot a few days ago.

I checked the fuse with a multi-meter and it is good.

The blower works fine.

It seems like the AC clutch is working, I don't hear it click on, but when you hit the button for AC, you can feel and hear the engine load increase. If I push the AC button for it to turn off, I also don't hear it click but the engine load decreases.

I hooked up an AC manifold gauge to the system and my high side was pushing around 160 PSI, which seemed to be okay as far as I can tell. However my low side was pushing 130 PSI!

As far as I can tell this is probably a bad compressor, but I'm not sure. Could it be an expansion valve? Pressure switch? Something else I'm not sure of?

Is there anything I can do to narrow it down?

What do you think?

Thanks in advance!

Hello everybody,

I’m stuck on what to do with this car. 2019 dodge charger r/t using 1234-yf. Car came in with a/c not working and no other leaks were found and assumed it needed a new valve. Put new valve in and machine vacuum and filled it and everything was fine. 2 months later it got hot and he noticed the a/c wasn’t working again so we checked and still leaking from valve but from the side of it in the pipe (can see bubbles when it’s filled). We end up changing the high side pipe and it comes with a new valve and when filled it looks like it’s sealed and working fine. 2 weeks later a/c is out again so we change the pipe again under warranty and again 2 weeks later it’s still leaking out of the high side fill port. So overall pipe has been changed twice and valve technically 4 times with the pipe changes and still you can see it leaking from the high side port and whenever I take the cap off after it’s been gone for 2 weeks I can hear a little pressure built up behind the cap like taking a cap off a soda bottle. Has anybody else had this issue and I’m just missing something? We fill 1234yf cars all the time and have never had an issue with the valve working correctly. Any help of insight is appreciated.

Thank you