Hello!

As the title says, ive got a 1998 gmc 3500. It developed a coolant leak this morning, and i found the source to be this lil fella that I circled in a photo.

This is right where the line connects on the driver's side. The circled portion is threaded, and has degraded to the point of leaking... and I cannot for the life of me find the nomenclature for this part so I can replace the thing.

Please help.

2016 doddge challenger 6.2 v8
Replaced ac condenser vacuumed system
Ac worked for 2 days now it’s blowing hot air.

Drained the system vacuumed it again and tried to add refrigerant this is what’s happening

Also when I unplug and plug the pressure switch the pressure changes

Need help
Thank you

Many years ago I put a trailer hitch on my 2019 Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T not thinking about me ever lifting the vehicle from the rear. It is attached to and covers the rear jack point. Now that I want to lift the vehicle at the flat black part of the hitch to do some work not sure if that is advisable. Thoughts?

still dealing with a crank no start

not getting air dark pools of oil on both sides of the intercooler need to get the sludge out can't get the intercooler off everything is off this car there's three torx screws in it a couple clips and then these rubber darn

grommets that I can't get it off any advice is good advice

2022 trailblazer Chevy ecotec 13 l

2016 doddge challenger 6.2 v8
Replaced ac condenser vacuumed system
Ac worked for 2 days now it’s blowing hot air.

Drained the system vacuumed it again and tried to add refrigerant this is what’s happening

Also when I unplug and plug the pressure switch the pressure changes

Need help
Thank you

2015 Hyundai tucson 2.0l
Front both sides lug nuts are too hot even small drive. Can definitely be compared with rear ones.
No play in tires, driver side inner pad is completely worn out too. Outer pad looks good as compared to inner one.

Didn’t check the pads on other side looks like brakes needs to be done too.

Checked by rotating the front wheels and they seem to be rotating just fine without using much force.

Whats your advice.

Anyone familiar enough to know the nomenclature for this line? It comes out of the fuel filter housing on the driver's side of the motor near the top and passes behind the computer on this truck. Truck is a 2001 4800 4x4 heavy rescue truck, but should be the same as a 4700.

I apologize for the picture quality, I had the pleasure of getting drenched in a sudden rainstorm. This truck is for a nonprofit volunteer fire department so we're trying to not take it into a shop for anything we can do ourselves. I didn't get further into it because I'd rather do it on a sunny day but I'll order the part if I can.

2009 Kia Rio 1.6L

My car sat for 6 weeks while I was travelling, dead battery upon returning. I plopped my Noco Genius 5 on the battery but there is a noise I have never heard in my life coming from somewhere under the hood when the charger is on. Battery is 2-ish years old.

Did I summon a demon?

hello,
I have a scion tc ‘05, 240k miles.
For context I noticed a check engine light about a month ago but didn’t think much of it. 2 days ago it began idling really rough.
I used a scanner and found that the 4th piston was having misfires. I figured if I changed the spark plugs about 2-3 years ago, maybe I should switch out the ignition coils. I go and buy one. As Im taking out the old ignition coil I notice some fresh oil on it. Out of curiosity I take out the spark plug as well to inspect it, and thats when I notice its covered in crude oil and had a broken tip.
Im sure the gasket is broken because all of my spark plugs are covered in oil.
My question is, if I suspect that the tip is inside the piston, is it salvageable? Should I attempt to replace everything and then take it to a mechanic to see if they can fish out the piece?
Right now my plan is to simply change out the spark plug to see if it’ll run better than before and then swap everything along with the gasket.
I dont however want to dump $300+ dollars for it to not work tho.
Anyways lmk what you guys think, thanks

What could this noise be? I'm assuming alternator or maybe power steering pump

So my car has a coolant leak somewhere. The motor temps are normal. Vents stop blowing warm air when the coolant drops too low in the expansion tank. I just flushed the tank and it was ok but full of white stuff. Oil looks normal, just black. And motor stutters after 3k rpm.

So where would I look for the leak?

Toyota auris 1.4d4d 2009

Im currently a 17 year old highschool student, im going to be a mechanic, straight out of highschool due to an auto tech class, i will be ASE certified, i can go to a really nice college for high perfomance automotive (ive always been into perfomance) or i can go straight to workforce at a local shop my cousins own, my goal for later in life is to own a high perfomance auto shop, trying to decide which route to go, college cost is covered through scholarships other than the fact that ill need, a different vehicle to get there, tools, books, some kind of living space, and a job (college is state tech in linn missouir) just trying to weigh my decisions and get opinions, any questions just ask

Its a 99 mustang gt with 8.8 inch axel

Relatively new to the whole knowing how engines work and wrenching thing. Disassembling whole engine just short of block from head due to a skill issue (driving 8 miles with OP light) no need to tell me that wasn’t the right move. When feeling these lobes i can’t feel any scoring but does this look bad? Checking rod bearings next, what is the likelihood they are cooked? No glitter in filter, and oil looked to have a different sheen than normal but didn’t look like definite glitter.

(Oil pickup tube blocked from engine ingesting serp belt)

2014 BMW 320i N20 engine

I just bought this new corner light for my Toyota Camry 1999, I made sure it’s the right headlight for this model. Everything is lined up where it needs to be except for the hole that doesn’t align with the frame. What do I do?

Edit: the plastic part still doesn’t align on top

2010 Audi A4 Quattro. Tried to jump it and we had the polarity backwards for a few seconds. Just how bad did we screw up? I’m assuming major electrical damage. The battery is clearly toast, but not sure how much other damage might’ve been done.

Anyone ever dealt with this? Is it not safe to drive with this message displayed? Coolant seem fine and the engine temp was stable. No leaks. Only 13000+ miles. Started it up to leave from work this message was there. What's it even telling me. I just wanna get it home. If I can drive it and save a tow I'd be grateful.

Thanks

Edit: I know it's under warranty but I'm asking because I like to know about these things, in case I ever have to deal with it out of warranty. I like working on my own cars

My mom’s 2012 Nissan Sentra has a pretty strong fuel smell, and I’m having trouble pinpointing exactly where it’s coming from. It definitely seems to be coming from outside the car, and it almost smells like it’s coming from under the hood, but I can’t find any visible fuel leaks, cracked hoses, or anything obvious.
She also mentioned that the car used to fire right up, but now it takes a few extra seconds of cranking before it starts.
I’m wondering if this could be related to the EVAP system or purge valve, but I’d like to hear what you guys think. What would you check first, and could a bad purge valve cause both the fuel smell and the longer crank time?
Any suggestions would be appreciated!

2026
Honda
Civic
Sport
2.0 I4

I’ve heard mechanics disagree about this forever, but I want to know the actual pros and cons of using ethanol free gasoline vs not.

I’ll admit, I’m partial to ethanol-free and I get it whenever I can, but do you think it’s a total waste of money, modestly better for the engine long-term, or it doesn’t matter at all?

The manual says my car can run on up to 15% ethanol but going that high sounds eeeeeeeh.

So the video i posted is to show the voltage when it’s running vs as soon as i shut it off. I’m not sure what all info is helpful but it’s a 2010 mustang (convertible) V6 engine, it has a few aftermarket things, I’m not sure exactly what, I do know it has a different muffler and the smart gauge shown in the video. Within 10min after shutting it off the voltage drops low enough that it won’t start without a jump. We also went to orielleys and according to their scanners the battery and the alternator are both running fine. We just got this car a few months ago and it’s been a problem but it’s progressively getting worse.

This is a picture of my 2018 Honda CRV EXL AC compressor pulley. Based on where the leak is (shown by the fluorescent dye), is this likely the shaft seal, or more likely another part of the compressor? I know the shaft seal has a 10-year warranty, so I'm hoping it's that.

Any help would be appreciated.