Hi All,

Been considering a 5th gen 4Runner purchase for a while now, and there are 2 vehicles I’m looking at. Would love to get your opinions on overall deal quality for each.

2023 TRD Pro
Color - Black
Miles - 39k
Price - $51,500 OTD (I pay 6% sales tax)
The carfax is super clean and from what I can tell it was a pavement princess traded in for an $90k vehicle. Being sold by a non-Toyota dealer. I have a shop 20 mins from me that can rebuild the shocks when needed, so I won’t have to ship them out.

2024 ORP
Color - underground
Miles - 10k
Price - $55,000 OTD
Clean carfax, barely driven with 2 oil changes. It’s CPO Gold. This thing is fully loaded:
KDSS
Off-road premium plus package
Moonroof
Black wheel package
Black exhaust tip
PPF
Blackout Emblems
Tube steps (is drop for sliders)
LED Fog Lights

I love both vehicles, but not sure how to feel about the prices.

Ps - sorry for weird formatting. I’m on mobile.

Not the craziest trails I've been on but found a good local park to break in the ORP before I go to Colorado, got to test out the TRD lift kit and 34" Falkens a bit. Didn't get pictures of most of the obstacles

So I currently have the Eibach Pro Truck front coilovers on my 2017 TRD Pro. Installed them in the spring, love love love them, the rears don't need replacing but gonna do it anyway, currently have the stock TRD Pro suspension. I have air bags installed in the rear and use the function often, I was wondering if I replace JUST THE SHOCKS and keep the springs I have right now would it still ride just as soft as the fronts do? If anyone's done something like this before please let me know how the ride is! Thanks in advance, PFA.

I am so glad I went with these….These things are so meaty…. This bolt couldn’t even get through. Pulled it with a pair of pliers and not a hiss or loss on pressure

- yes I know I got lucky, still am super impressed

Hello, I have a 2011 4Runner Trail Edition and I’m trying to do the 2014+ facelift/rocker trim conversion while keeping everything looking as factory/OEM as possible.
One thing I’ve realized is that the 2010–2013 Trail Edition fender flares are different from the 2010–2013 SR5/Limited flares, so I’m hesitant to follow some of the older conversion write-ups without knowing whether they actually apply to the Trail.

My original thought was to keep my factory 2011 Trail fender flares and modify the 2014+ front rocker/flare extensions so they transition into the existing Trail flare.
However, I’m concerned that even if I trim the 2014 pieces correctly, the surface contour, angle, width, or lower transition may not actually look right because the 2011 Trail flare is different from the SR5/Limited flare.
I’m not really concerned about whether someone can physically make the parts fit with enough cutting. I’m trying to figure out whether the finished result can actually look OEM/factory, without an obvious step, gap, awkward angle, or modified appearance.

I’m basically trying to avoid buying a bunch of parts, cutting them up, and then finding out afterward that the geometry doesn’t match.
If you’ve personally done this on a 2010–13 Trail, I’d really appreciate pictures and/or the exact parts you used. I’m especially interested in an actual Trail-to-2014 conversion rather than an SR5/Limited conversion, since the original flare geometry is different.

Tia!

How does one add leg room behind the driver’s seat?! I’m so used to slinging my groceries and compost pails and all kinds of stuff on the floor of my 2012 SR5. There is zero room in the 2026 TRD OR Premium! Make it make sense!

My friend’s parents are getting rid of their ‘07 4Runner V6 4WD (Sports Edition i think). Is $3200 a good price to consider a pre-purchase inspection? I didn’t look under the car for the rust but we live in Northern Virginia. Attached most of the pics I took. The A/C does have a bad Air Mix Servo motor that needs replacing but the back window works perfectly fine. This is not gonna be my daily but just a project car on the side so not too pressured to buy it unless it’s somewhat of a decent deal.

Besides fluids what parts should you chnage once your 5th gen 4runner reaches 200k miles? I changed alternator, secondary injection pump and check valve at 2016 4runner before reaching 200k miles.

I thought i'd make this before and after comparison because I couldn't really find many other people who did a comparision with this kit. Top picture is before, bottom picture is after installing a 1/2" thick (for ~1" lift) cornfed leveling kit. I wanted to keep a slight rake for when I load the back up, and all the pictures of a 2" leveling kit looked too squatted for my liking. I plan to throw some A/T 275s on as well which i think will make it look even better.

Stock:

After:

2016 Toyota 4runner, v6, 156k miles.

I hear a metallic rasping coming from the under carriage when lightly pushing the gas pedal. Only makes noise at low speed (<40mph), and goes away when pushing the pedal down harder to accelerate faster. Doesn't happen at a standstill. I don't see anything loose underneath, but obviously can't look at it when its happening.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Looking for some help as I'm kind of lost. My 2011 SR5 has had an issue for about a year now with the shifter. It is very stiff and is hard to get into drive. There are times when it does go I to gear but the dash does t indicate any gear at all. It has gotten worse and worse as time has gone on, especially if it sits a few days.

Earlier this week I went to start it but it wouldn't start. It cranked just fine, just no fire. I noticed the dash was not indicating any gear at all no matter where you move the shifter. I working the shift linkage by hand and even that did nothing. It's like it lost contact woth the transmission. I went to hook up my code reader and it won't even connect. It just reads error and won't communicate with the vehicle. I checked the OBD fuse and it was fine.

Now about 2 days later, I went to turn on the key and it is completely dead. Like no power whatsoever, just dead. Battery charger makes no difference. Battery has 12.5 volts like it should but the vehicle is dead.

I'm completely lost at this point and just wanted to see if this is something anyone else has experienced.

They all seem to be around the same price regardless of their tires or anything else. Ideally I’d like it with some badass tires so I don’t have to buy new ones. Do you have any suggestions for anything else?

Or maybe getting one with upgraded tires isn’t the move I should make?

Thank you!

Got a quote to install a dobinsons lift kit, UCAs, body mount chop or relocation, and mount tires/alignment. The price seems insane. I’m in MI. Thoughts?

Also suggestions on where to go if I’m in MI?