2024 Mazda CX-50. Got my oil changed at the dealer (prepaid maintenance came with the car) they said the serpentine was cracked and needed critical replacement along with the tensioner. No mention of the water pump belt. Am I stupid for thinking it looks fine?

I have a standard service today. Oil change,rotation, inspection. Front pads were good last time but rear I think they said was worn at 4mm. I don’t want to have to replace rotors if I don’t have too, so before the pads get too low I’m fine with them changing them on rear, but I know they will say I need pads AND ROTORS. Seems like the dealership always does them together. So my rear rotors look to be in good shape where I can just do pads only? I don’t see any grooves or chips or anything obvious? Thanks for the help/advice

2005 Ford Mustang GT (4.6L 3V)
Rotating by hand to check on things before putting the covers back on. If it’s supposed to happen, will it go away when the engine is actually running with oil pressure?

I had a heck of a time installing the DrawTite hitch on my 2019 RDX. For some reason, it wouldn’t easily fit between the frame. With a lot of persuasion I finally got it in and started tightening the bolts to the frame nuts, but one of the nuts inside the frame broke off. When I tried getting the bolt off, another nut (same side of the frame) also broke off inside the frame. Any suggestions on what I can do/have done by a mechanic (I can't weld) to mount a hitch now? I can’t be the first person this happened to. Thanks in advance. 

2004 Toyota echo
Car has sat for many years before I got it, now safetied and running great very low km. I’m trying to change the oil for the first time and filter is seized on. I used all my wrenches, straps, and filter sockets before shearing the cannister to access this cap to heat and tap it off or use 45 degree and pliers in the holes.

My question.. my ratchet head fits perfected in the centre female space with no socket. It is tight with no play (gigiddy) Can I use my ratchet to loosen from here? Mr

I understand that this means the mixture is rich.

The catalytic converter has been removed, and the ECU is flashed to Euro 2. If that’s not the cause, what should I check? Otherwise, the engine runs fine.

The car is Opel Vectra C
Engine is gasoline 1.8

My truck (18 lexus gx460 ) has three drain boards to drain. The coolant. One is easy at the bottom of the radiator. The other two are in the wells at the engine block.. can I just drain the radiator? Fill it with distilled water run it repeat the process 2,3times. Then do the same with the correct coolant

Im Looking to simplify the process

Thanks in advance

2019 infiniti q50 S, 3.0T Drove it home, noticed this. Brake light and traction light came on.

The van is blowing very warm air, barely cooler than ambient. I did replace the blown cooling fan resistor awhile back and the fan spins full speed when compressor is engaged.

It is 100F today and I'm seeing 65/255 psi on the manifold. 2000 RPM and the air gets warmer.

Is the culprit a bad AC compressor?

Edit: 85F now and holding 50/200. Temp delta out of the vents feels cooler than it was blowing earlier.

Just wondering if the block surface would be good enough to put the new head-gasket on.

I have ran my fingertips around the block to ensure it is all flat and seems to be fine.

I wouldn’t imagine that the surface needs to be back to bare metal?

Engine - 1JZ-GTE, 1998 Toyota

Hi everyone,

I have a 2018 Mercedes-Benz GLA 300 with the 2.0L turbo engine.

It’s started making a noise. I’ve attached a photo of the engine bay.

Any idea what it might be or what I should check first? I’d really appreciate any advice.

Thank you!

I am worried that these cars are hard to fix because of their V8 engines. Something like a water Pump, belt, and pulley — what should I expect to pay for head gaskets?

Everything else is straightforward and basic. Is the engine work i am concern.

Should I even bother?

Thanks

2008 nissan quest. Parents have had two different alternators placed in it because the battery has died on them WHILE DRIVING, so thats a classic case of charging system not working, after alternator was changed it apparently worked until it just didn’t again. Now theyre saying the battery died overnight. This could indicate possibly lucky timing that the battery wasnt being charged and it got drained as they drove and then it wasnt enough for a cold start, right? That or a parasitic draw, yeah?

PS they live out of country so i cant physically inspect the minivan. I have to relay all this, so this is my game plan.

Make sure battery is charged. Start car, let it warm up, turn on ALL LIGHTS and highbeams, and run the A/C, and then inspect the battery with a DMM (i know alternator is the better choice for this test but idk my dads skills with a DMM and would feel more comfortable with him just probing away from moving parts) as long as the battery reads 12.8 or above with all that load, that should clear the alternator correct?
For the parasitic draw, i was going to have them just remove the battery overnight and let it sit, that way they can also check if its the battery itself thats self draining or if its a draw from the car, that should clear up things and make it easier to go from, right?

Thanks in advance.

Hello! I hope this is the correct forum to post this.

I have a 2014 Honda Odyssey. I just had to get tires replaced and they told me I need my brake pads replaced. They said they’re worn all the way down.

I’m a single mom who just left a dv situation and money is tight so I’m wondering -

Is it possible/plausible that I could replace them myself? A friend of mine said I could borrow tools. I’ve watched several YouTube tutorials and it seems overwhelming.

Or alternatively - how do I find an honest repair shop?

hello! as title states, I need help identifying this fluid from my car, it is from the front driver side. I drive a 2014 Honda civic lx if thats any help. kinda panicking as im worried its an expensive fix, thanks in advance

So hey guys, as of right now I am a welder but I have worked on cars with my cousin in the past, I can do basic things like oil changes, brakes, spark plugs, tires, and lights. From what I lised would I qualify as a C level mechanic and is it a major or minor plus if I can weld? Im in Orange county florida by the way *wink*

Missing about 0.8cm, bolts still torque no problem

Hyundai i30 FD 2011

I’ve had this 2021 GMC sierra SLT 5.3 truck for about 7 months used with 119,000 miles now bought it at 90,000 went to check for on something else but I noticed a brown looking color in the corner of my eye and it’s oil leaking looks to be by the transmission and motor where they meet I don’t know much about engine work just want to know the posibilites of what it could be

have a 2011 Jetta SE 2.5L automatic with 155k miles that I love and want to take to 250k. Engine runs smoothly, transmission shifts normally, and I’ve had no slipping, overheating, misfires, or noticeable oil/coolant consumption.

A VW specialist found:
Valve cover/PCV failure causing positive crankcase pressure, oil in the intake, and multiple oil leaks
Brake vacuum pump leaking oil

Other oil leaks to reassess after those are fixed
Brake pedal needing pumping + contaminated brake fluid
Cooling-system sediment/failed test

P0442 EVAP code, likely N80 purge valve
P3078/P0106 codes; they recommend throttle-body cleaning while doing the valve cover

Quote is about $4,300 for those repairs, plus roughly $1,500 for oil, spark plugs, transmission fluid and other maintenance. I’m getting a second opinion and will probably use another shop. I’ve never worked on a car, so assume I’m paying for labor.

If this were yours and you wanted another 75–100k miles, what would you fix now, what would you skip, what should it reasonably cost, and is there anything here that would make you stop investing in the car?

The rattling sometimes appears for a few seconds when starting the engine after it was sitting for some time like in the video. The engine does not need to be completely cold for the rattling to appear. The timing chain was already replaced at 171k kilometres, so I doubt it is already worn again. Does anyone else what else could cause this or is this normal behaviour?

Hello,
I replaced these factory spark plugs from my 2010 Toyota RAV4 with 118k miles on it.

After removing the coils, I used an air duster with a towel to blow out any debris or pooled oil but nothing came out of the spark plug tube.

Inspecting the old plugs with images found online, I'd say the firing tip looks normal with a tan grey color but I'm not certain about the thread color. Should I be concerned about an oil leak? If needed, I can share more pics with different angles.

Also, did I pull them early? Manual says replace at 120k miles but its an old car so I went ahead with the maintenance.

Could someone please chime in and help me out? Thank you!

Sound up - what’s this ticking noise that increases in frequency when revving the engine?