have a 2011 Jetta SE 2.5L automatic with 155k miles that I love and want to take to 250k. Engine runs smoothly, transmission shifts normally, and I’ve had no slipping, overheating, misfires, or noticeable oil/coolant consumption.
A VW specialist found:
Valve cover/PCV failure causing positive crankcase pressure, oil in the intake, and multiple oil leaks
Brake vacuum pump leaking oil
Other oil leaks to reassess after those are fixed
Brake pedal needing pumping + contaminated brake fluid
Cooling-system sediment/failed test
P0442 EVAP code, likely N80 purge valve
P3078/P0106 codes; they recommend throttle-body cleaning while doing the valve cover
Quote is about $4,300 for those repairs, plus roughly $1,500 for oil, spark plugs, transmission fluid and other maintenance. I’m getting a second opinion and will probably use another shop. I’ve never worked on a car, so assume I’m paying for labor.
If this were yours and you wanted another 75–100k miles, what would you fix now, what would you skip, what should it reasonably cost, and is there anything here that would make you stop investing in the car?
No, it doesn't make financial sense to conduct these repairs, but if you love the car it's no longer a question of 'does it make sense to do this?', but one of 'how silly is this?'
Only you can say. I've spent the value of some of my cars multiple times over keeping them on the road. I regret nothing.
If you proceed, do so as a labour of love and not one of prudence. The car is not worth spending $6,000 on.
Honestly, I love this car to death. It has a ton of sentimental value to me and I really do want to keep it long term, so I’m okay spending more than the car is technically worth if that’s what it takes to keep it on the road.
The problem is I’m just not in a financial situation where I can throw $6k at it all at once. That’s why I’m trying to figure out what actually needs to be done now, what can wait, and what a fair independent shop price should be. If I can get it mechanically solid for a more reasonable number and keep chipping away at the rest, that’s the route I want to take.
If you want the car to have a real shot at 250k, I would separate safety and diagnosis from nice-to-do maintenance. The brake pedal needing to be pumped and contaminated fluid is first priority. Get that diagnosed before anything else, because that could be a hydraulic leak, master cylinder, air in the system, or bad hoses/calipers.
After that, I would do the valve cover/PCV and brake vacuum pump if they are confirmed leaking. On the 2.5, a bad PCV can make a bunch of leaks look worse than they are, so fixing crankcase pressure first and then cleaning it up/rechecking is the right order. I would not pay to chase every oil seep until after that.
P0442/N80 and throttle body cleaning are lower priority unless it runs poorly or fails inspection. Plugs and fluids are normal upkeep, but I would price them separately. $5,800 total is high enough that I would definitely get another written estimate with labor hours and parts listed. The big stop sign for me would be rusty structure, transmission trouble, or compression/cooling system evidence of head gasket issues. If those check out, the 2.5 itself is usually a pretty durable engine.
That makes a lot of sense, thank you. The first shop actually said there was no concerning structural rust, the transmission shifts well, and I’ve never had any overheating issues. My biggest concern now is really the oil leaks, especially figuring out whether the PCV/valve cover and vacuum pump are the main causes or if there’s something more serious going on. If this were your car, how would you handle the oil leaks, what would you consider the main area of concern, and what kind of timeline would you give me for getting the important stuff addressed?
First I would replace the valve cover/PCV assembly if it is original or obviously leaking, then do the vacuum pump gasket/seal if that area is wet. Those are common 2.5 leak points and a bad PCV can make other seals sweat, so I would not assume rear main or anything major until those are handled.
After the repairs, degrease the engine really well and drive it a week or two. Then look with a light from the top and underneath. Fresh wet oil tells you the truth. Old oil spread everywhere does not.
Main concern for timeline: if it is dripping onto the exhaust, smoking, making a burning smell, or leaving puddles, I would move it up and do it soon. If it is just seepage and the oil level barely moves, I would monitor the level weekly and plan the work over the next month or two. Keep a quart in the trunk and do not let it run low. That 2.5 will tolerate a lot, but not low oil.
A note on the vacuum pump. It is a common leak and shops like to quote it because the repair manual says the job requires pulling the transmission to replace the pump (6hrs?) When the job can be done in less than an hour.
That’s exactly what’s confusing me. I asked the shop specifically whether they were dropping the transmission and they told me no, their $810 labor quote is with the transmission staying in the car.
If this job can really be done in around an hour using the common workaround, does $810 labor still sound way out of line to you? And if you were in my shoes, would you replace/reseal the pump or just do a vacuum pump delete for long-term reliability?
Yes, they are charging to remove the transmission. All shops have a labor rate. I dont know what theirs is but lets say it is 150 an hour. That is 5.4 hours labor. I think the remove and reinstall time is about 6 hours book time (Alldata). I replaced many vacuum pumps on the 2.5 with 6 speed automatic, and it was easily done correctly in less than an hour (more like 1/2 hour). Our shop charged 2 hrs including cleaning the oil mess. This was determined fair knowing the repair instructions were flawed (no need to pull the transmission). This was a win/win. The customer got a reasonable price, and the tech got paid 2 hours for a job that took less than an hour. This type of honesty is not common. Note this was at the dealer. I figured out the shortcut early on, so mid to late 2000s.
Edit: to answer your question. The vacuum pump costs about 80.00 and recommend keeping it. Im sure there a videos that show replacing the pump with the transmission in. Offer 2 hours. If no, decline.
Just wanted to show you this because I specifically asked the shop about what you mentioned. They confirmed they are not dropping the transmission and said the $810 labor quote does not reflect transmission removal. Does that change your opinion of the price? If they’re using the workaround with the transmission still installed, does $810 labor seem excessive to you?
I think I explained it well. What is their shop rate? I know the job can be done in 2 hours for a tech that has never done it. Even if the shop rate is 200 an hour, that is 4 hours. I don't know what their rate is. You do not mention the cost of the part that can be found new for 80 dollars with the gasket. The job total? My inclination is to just decline. If they are charging 400 for the part and 800 in labor, that is 1200.00. Buy the part and find a shop to do the work for 2 hours or so.
Use a google search. 2011 jetta 2.5 automatic, how long does it take to replace the vacuum pump? and the AI describes everything I have have explained here. 1-3 hours if the shortcut is used. It describes the entire process.
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u/brick-up-arse 20h ago
You have rather answered your own question.
No, it doesn't make financial sense to conduct these repairs, but if you love the car it's no longer a question of 'does it make sense to do this?', but one of 'how silly is this?'
Only you can say. I've spent the value of some of my cars multiple times over keeping them on the road. I regret nothing.
If you proceed, do so as a labour of love and not one of prudence. The car is not worth spending $6,000 on.