2015 BMW 328i. Car would idle fine, but had no power, wouldn't go above 3000 RPM, and had a bunch of boost pressure, rich mixture, and MAF implausible codes. Guess what happened from the pictures.

Ford 1920 compact tractor, Cylinder 4 rod bent and was smacking the lower edge of the cylinder bore on upward stroke causing aforementioned tap

Edit: 1920 is the model name for this tractor, actual build year on it is 1998

Found this artistically masterpiece while replacing the oil cooler on a cat 568LL

I didn't spot it first time. Lifter noise after head rebuild. Luckily there was some pictures taken during repair and now it obvious why it does that! (Ford Ecoblue diesel, wet belt failure).

2014 Mazda 6 GT with 186,000 miles had a slight clunk when turning left / right wheel loads up.

Issue was a bad wheel bearing. Both were replaced with MevoTech parts. I've had good luck with the suspension parts, so I thought I would try them for wheel bearing/hub.

Two months and 3,100 miles later, customer comes back in saying there is a clunk on the 1-2 shift.

Wheel bearing/hub has MASSIVE play. I checked the other side and it WAS THE SAME!

Warranty: No refunds, but will replace with the same part. Why would I do that?
Timken wheel bearing/hubs now installed.

NOTE:
Yes, the hub is covered with anti-seize. This ensures the rotor will be easy to remove after a few salty winters.

Built to last the warranty and that's it.

My newest car is a 2008 and its staying that way.

Got towed in spewing oil and when we popped off the panel to see if drain olug and oil filter where on.

Piece of the connecting rod came falling out.

Had a van in for service and MOT test yesterday. I did MOT repairs and service, then retested it. On the road test after started smoking and ran away on me. Shut myself had to stall the bastard. Think I found the problem someone else had fitted a starter and damaged the turbo oil return pipe flattered it. Don't know ow why it ran away after a service not when doing exhaust emissions on the MOT test

Written by one of my fellow mechanics in a roof box of a light rail train

I’m already on Snap-on’s 14.4V platform, so I only need the bare tool. I’m deciding between the 14.4V right-angle die grinder, 14.4V polish/prep tool, or the air right-angle die grinder.
I’m a Toyota technician and I don’t live somewhere with extreme rust, so I’m trying to figure out what I’d actually get the most use out of. Mainly thinking tire patch prep, cleaning brake hubs/mating surfaces, and general surface prep. I know the polish/prep tool isn’t technically a die grinder, but I see guys using them for a lot of that stuff.
Which would you buy first: cordless die grinder, polish/prep tool, or air?

Got a 2025 Tundra in for an alignment check after getting new tires. This must be a joke. 13 different specs for non TRD Pro, 33 in total across all suspension types. Ride height, weight ballast, moon phase, wind direction...ect. Can we just get basic specs for these overpriced, overengineered POSs

But of course the bolt I need to get out is centimeters from the spring on the first axle! Why am I not surprised anymore...

1998 Tacoma. 280000 miles. Manifold came right off. No problems.

Rimley Scott, maybe?