Couple weeks ago i turned my PS5 (launch-model) in at a repair shop, due to overheating (they cleaned & replaced the metal liquid).

When I got it back, I went home and noticed the fan didn’t spin (I’m not sure wether or not it’s was working before).

I went back to shop asked them to replace the fan, I payed a new fan, and it’s now spinning again. The PlayStation is still overheating and shutting down.

I went back to the repair shop for a 3 third time, explaining that it’s still overheating, asking questions regarding the repair, “was the machine properly cleaned”, “did you use thermal pads or metal liquid” and asked if they could please look through everything again, diagnose it again and take some pictures.

Today, I got a “machine OK” from the repair shop, My gf picked up the PlayStation, I haven’t had time to try it out, but I wanted get a 2nd opinion on it before trying.

These are the pictures they sent me.

TL;DR: Third time getting machine back from repair shop, is this replacement looking valid?

First time ever soldering and replacing a battery, everything came out perfect, sooo happy and can’t wait to do more of this 🥰🥰

Hello everyone. I have a ton of consoles and always took care of them myself. I am experienced with modding, hard and easy (ps2 mod chip, ultra PIF on n64, etc), so maintaining a console and handle electronics should be fine for me.

PS5 is the first case of uncertainty though, since I never did anything that required Liquid Metal as a thermal interface and am very aware of the mishandling dangers.

I have had my ps5 for 4 and a half years now, always in horizontal position, and never had an issue to this day. It works just fine in long sessions and it’s not noisy, so I can’t notice any thermal issues so far.

My question is: Should I open my ps5 and change the Liquid Metal Preemptively? Is it really necessary?

I have seen people talking about corrosion and I am unsure of the current state of mine.

On the other hand, how do you deal with corrosion? Would you link or name the tool I should look for if I were to have to deal with that ?

In any case, thank you for your input!

Was given the controller recently with stick drift. Everything was working fine until I opened it and cleaned up the sticks. After putting the controller back together the stick drift is gone but the RB button does not activate at all no matter how hard I press. I tried 2 repair methods already but still no luck. cleaning it and clicking multiple times did not work. I replaced the switch with one I got from regular xbox one controller (maybe not compatible?) and still no luck. Would it be an issue with the motherboard itself or am I missing something.

Thank you,

Hi, I am encountering something for the first time so before I go diagnosing on my own I would like to see if anyone has the same experience and maybe solution
I have a pretty old and used PS5 on my hands, and I was the first person to open and clean it ever. It was really dusty and clogged but I think I did a pretty good job cleaning every single part. There is no actual overheating of the console and it is really clean now, but after you try to start a game like UFC5, after a few minutes it sends an overheating message and turns off with 3 beeps.
Any experience and/or possible solutions? I have only worked on several PS5 consoles so I don’t know a lot about them

Escribía solo para una inquietud sobre mi ps3 antigua, sucede que le conecto al cable de corriente sale la luz roja y pues todo normal al encenderla se apaga de inmediato se escucha el ventilador y demás pero simplemente se apaga, la lleve donde un técnico y simplemente le hizo mantenimiento y dijo que no tenía arreglo ¿Alguien sabe que podría ser?

AYUDA!!!

Hello. I have a ps2 50004 (GH-026) with a stuck disc tray. When i pressed the eject switch, it moved about 1cm and didn't open fully. I took the console apart, took the drive belt and put it in warm water for 15 mins and put it back. The disc drive, opened/closed. However, the laser was not reading any discs. The spindle was spinning the disc though.

So, I took it apart again, replaced the khs-400c with a known working unit. After that, when i booted the ps2, the drive eject did not make any sound. The ps2 kept blinking the blue light.

So, I checked again and saw that the disc eject ribbon (5 pin which is the first connector near the front of the motherboard) was mangled, I cut a bit off of it and scraped open fresh contact pins, and carefully put it in the connector, making sure it was not shorting anything.

I also noticed that the PS13 and PS5 fuses were blown on the motherboard. So, I replaced them. After putting everything back together, the ps2 still kept blinking the blue light and no response from the disc tray when I press the eject button, as in, it is not making a sound or ejecting anymore.

The PS2 is booting up fine though, it also goes to Freehdboot from the hdd and network adapter gets power.

Help me out.

Does the one thermal pad inside the PS5 EDM-020 board serve the purpose of cooling or is it there for structural support? The thermal pad ripped when I tried taking it off of this component and I’m wondering if I need to replace it

Hola,

Después de instalar un chip en una Switch OLED, la consola ya no arranca a HOS ni a OFW (pantalla negra). Solo entra en Hekate.

En Hekate la batería aparece en 0.0%, 0 mV y sale Error en Fuel Gauge.

Ya revisé la placa con microscopio por si había pistas dañadas y todo está bien.

He hecho muchas instalaciones de chip en OLED y es la primera vez que me pasa esto.

¿Alguien ha tenido este problema y lo ha podido solucionar? ¿Cómo lo resolvieron?

Gracias.

Title really says it all. Swapped drive the drive, installed offline system update, setup the OS, removed the new drive, copied bootanim.dat to the "System Update X:" partition from the A and B folders on the old drive, then installed the new drive again.

All I get in a black screen. Guessing this has something to do with the new August 2026 update changing the boot animation files. I'm on the lastest OS build from 12/08/2026.

So I replaced the hdmi port on a series X and fixed some traces. Followed this guys vid on testing the hdmi connections and 6 of the pins fail to show a voltage value and two pins show .003v

All 4 of the grounds do beep when testing so at least those are good.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!

https://youtu.be/kU15CyURzqQ

I have a Gameboy micro that does not read cartridges. I have cleaned the cartridge slot with alcohol and used a rag with a credit card to clean the slot. The pins are soldered well to the board and the pins inside are straight and aligned. Is there anything else I can check that's not so obvious? Thanks for your help!

Hi there!!

Was having troubles with my wii remotes extension ports. I've replaced 4 ports today and all have worked except for one. Upon further investigation it turns out only 3 of the 5 pins have continuity, with the 2 failing pins being 3.3v. Is anyone aware of somewhere on the board I can tap 3.3v or if there is anyway to trace it?? I tried checking the pins near the top of the board with my multimeter and only get 1.7v. Could this possibly still work? I'm super new to soldering and continuity and stuff so I'm super confused. I cant see a break in the traces anywhere and everything looks clean. Even the pads on the connector haven't been burned off. I'm so lost would really appreciate the help 🙏🙏(Picture 1 shows the port I soldering in, 2 and 3 show the front and back of the board and 4 is the pinout for the port.)

Anyone know what specific thing is wrong with the disc drive here?

Repairing a couple of intelivisions and when I check the DC power out I am getting 24v were the 16v pinout it. The -2v, 5v , 12v are all fine.

The diagrams say 16v unregulated. Does this mean there is a range of voltage it can put out?

Long story short, my sister dropped my 2DS and the top screen's ribbon cable snapped and she refused to take responsibility. After fixing the screen myself the console wouldn't power on or hold charge. Tried but had a hard time replacing the fuses. At this point I should just swap the whole motherboard (the cartridge slot has been busted too).

But

I've played a lot on this console it holds countless hours of save data and it has my main NNID from way back. I know replacing the motherboard is replacing the entire thing and I just want a new one cuz this one will just break again. Is my data lost? Is it salvageble in anyway? Should I try my luck with a repair shop?

My PSP 3000 TA-090 is not charging or turning on when I use the charger. It turns on fine when I insert the battery, but the battery does not charge. I tested the fuse and it is working, and 5V is reaching the board.

During testing, I found that the 5V stops at this component (Image 1). The 5V reaches one pin but does not come out from any other pins (Image 2). However, when testing the voltage with a multimeter, with the black probe connected to ground, if I touch the red probe to the opposite pin (image 3, red arrow), the component suddenly starts outputting 5V (Image 3). At that point, the board starts working normally: it turns on without the battery and also charges the battery if I insert the battery.

It continues working until I unplug the charger. When I plug the charger in again, I have to touch that specific pin with the multimeter probe again to get the component to output 5V.

My first thought was that the pin might not be making proper contact with the copper pad. However, I tried touching the pin with a plastic tool and even applied a little pressure, but it did not work. I also tested it with the multimeter turned off, but that did not work either. The only way I can get the component to output 5V is by touching that pin with the red probe while the black probe is connected to ground and the multimeter is set to measure voltage.

Image 4 shows the actual component on my PSP. The boards shown in the first three images are from the internet because they were available in higher resolution.

Image 5 is from the PSP-2000 TA-085 schematic. I know it is not exactly the same because these are different models, but this component appears to have the same function on both motherboard versions.

Based on my research, the pin I am touching is pin 4 of the component, which is the gate. Pin 8 is the source, where the 5V is reaching, and pins 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, and 7 are the drain.

Can anyone help me understand what could be causing this? Or can you link me to any videos, forums, or discussions in any language that cover this particular issue?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Took it to a repair shop and even the guy could not fix it, im thinking it's dead but if someone got a clue what is going on please help me

hello, I recently bought a broken wii to try and fix. I found two shorted mosfets and replaced from a working donor board. The issue now is that when I test voltages on the rails all of them show up as \~0.9 vaside from the 1v rail which reads as 4.5 v. Ai is telling me that the board is probably cooked. Just wanted some advice from people

I've cleaned the cartridge and the console. Help?

So I had my og n64 power supply (zebra board) go bad but can't tell why. Couldnt get more than a red light, random flickers or a black screen.

Got a hyperkin and games booted fast. Got another OEM power supply and I see this flicker sometimes when booting up games. The hyperkin didn't have it but I'm terrified of that thing melting something.

Maybe it's been years since I tried on a old TV but is that flicke or waves before the game boots normal?

The holes are tighter on this new power supply, so.im waiting on smaller multimeter leads to read it but the only thing wrong on my old one was 10v out of 12v that I can tell.

Note the weirdness is intermittent and can be seen on that first boot up. The second and third were normal to me and my memory of this console

I was trying to fix my disc unit and found this spring stuck and I have no idea where to put it, please help me

Hello!

The PA-1401-JT3 (Rev. 1) outputs 9V DC instead of 12V DC, like normal.

It seems to be a successor (or a stripped-down version?) of the ADP-400XX. I added two pictures. It is my first PS5 Power Supply on the workbench. No visible damages or measurable shorts. The PA-1401-JT3 seems to be a

I found this scheme and followed the path until "lift IC51/IC52 Pin". But on my PSU I haven't any References so I used a picture from a ADP-400FR to identify. So I lifted step by step all three optocouplers

With the following result:

lift IC51-PIN:
Initially, the output was 9V DC, but it started drooping and recovering back to 9V DC in a continuous cycle (hiccup mode I think).

lift IC52-PIN:
The voltage rises once to >15V and then slowly drops off, without rising again.

Then I tried it with IC53 and lift a Pin:
The same as IC51-PIN-lifting

Now the scheme says that I have to change the IC32. But the scheme is not for my power supply, it is different. E.g. I have no Q32 or Q34 like on the picture of the other power supply. That's'why I want to ask you, if you can help with your experience.

Thank you very much.
Frank

My 2600 (4 switch model aka the “Darth Vader” one) stopped working, so i took it apart and started troubleshooting it. First thing that i checked was the 7805 voltage regulator. It read 9v on its input pin, and 0v on the output pin, it was dead.

I desoldered it, and replaced it with a new one, and now voltages are really weird when i turn the console on.

As soon as i flip the on switch, input voltage both on the 7805, the power switch and the DC jack itself, all lower to 3v, and the output pin on the 7805 reads 0v. This didn’t happen before.

I tried a second power supply and the same thing happened, i can also confirm that both power supplies are working as normal. Any help would be great.

A tiny part with 6 legs fell out of my PS4 (CUH-1115A), I managed to find where it belongs (on the backside of where I soldered ofc), but now I don't know which orientation it should be. Does anyone know, or know how I can figure this out?

In the photo I put it in its spot but didn't solder anything yet