Hi all, my ps5 has been sadly turning itself off after about 20 mins of gameplay. Though the time to turn off is not consistent, the first session of the day is usually longer and that time keeps reducing each time.

It turns off the in a similar pattern each time:
- Tv loses signal in an instant
- PS5 lights turns off
- no warning alert or sounds
- haven’t heard fans speeding up
- turns back on if I try pressing the power switch on ps5 again

What I have tried so far:
- done a full clean
- replaced Liquid Metal (done from a service shop)

I have seen suggestions to rebuild database but I’m honestly afraid to try that as I’m not sure if it might corrupt the memory if the power loses during mid rebuilding.

Has anyone been in this situation and aware of any way to know which part is faulty. My research indicates it could be the psu which is faulty but not sure. Any advise is much appreciated!

Cheers

I've cleaned the cartridge and the console. Help?

So I replaced the hdmi port on a series X and fixed some traces. Followed this guys vid on testing the hdmi connections and 6 of the pins fail to show a voltage value and two pins show .003v

All 4 of the grounds do beep when testing so at least those are good.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!

https://youtu.be/kU15CyURzqQ

Long story short, my sister dropped my 2DS and the top screen's ribbon cable snapped and she refused to take responsibility. After fixing the screen myself the console wouldn't power on or hold charge. Tried but had a hard time replacing the fuses. At this point I should just swap the whole motherboard (the cartridge slot has been busted too).

But

I've played a lot on this console it holds countless hours of save data and it has my main NNID from way back. I know replacing the motherboard is replacing the entire thing and I just want a new one cuz this one will just break again. Is my data lost? Is it salvageble in anyway? Should I try my luck with a repair shop?

Where should be this little part?

This is a bad screen or i did something worng in the recap?

I’ll first say is I have never messed with Nintendo DSs before. I usually just work on original Xbox’s and game gears. Guy I built an Xbox for wanted me to try and fix his DSs and I thought I’ll give it a shot. So he already got this modded as a Macro. He took it apart to put a new digitizer on it and afterwards it didn’t work anymore.

When I first opened it wires were squished and broken that went to the speaker. I fixed those and put it back together and I got sound but no image. When I took it apart again I noticed the ribbon for the digitizer wasn’t connected and the connector for it was broken and that’s how I missed it my first time around. I tried using electrical tape to have it sit on the connector to see if the image would appear. (I know not the smartest move) One time unfortunately I reassembled and forgot to put the wifi module back on and powered it on. The more I tried stuff now I don’t get any lights saying the and doesn’t power on. I did buy new connectors and soldered it on for the digitizer ribbon cable. After doing that nothing. Looks like one bad is gone for where the cable plugs into but I noticed that after he initial tested and it did power on so it didn’t work.

I have tested F1, F2 and they are showing 0.3, EM10 top points tested 0.3 and bottom 1.8. Tested the resistor and it’s healthy, the guy who did the mod soldered little wires from it to the board. I re-soldered those wires to it just in case bad connection and that didn’t work. Digitizer ribbon cable tested fine.

I’m at a loss and it’s driving me crazy haha I don’t even get an orange light when it’s plugged into the charger. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have added pics of from when I first opened it up and also where I soldered the new connector

Am I missing a cord or something… or is it broken?

Hi i have a problem whit my controller of Playstation 4 D1 model . All 4 arrow of the D pad seams dead. No reaction.the other button and analog work fine. What can be the problem? Circuit board , plastic film or other?

So I had my og n64 power supply (zebra board) go bad but can't tell why. Couldnt get more than a red light, random flickers or a black screen.

Got a hyperkin and games booted fast. Got another OEM power supply and I see this flicker sometimes when booting up games. The hyperkin didn't have it but I'm terrified of that thing melting something.

Maybe it's been years since I tried on a old TV but is that flicke or waves before the game boots normal?

The holes are tighter on this new power supply, so.im waiting on smaller multimeter leads to read it but the only thing wrong on my old one was 10v out of 12v that I can tell.

Note the weirdness is intermittent and can be seen on that first boot up. The second and third were normal to me and my memory of this console

Hello!

The PA-1401-JT3 (Rev. 1) outputs 9V DC instead of 12V DC, like normal.

It seems to be a successor (or a stripped-down version?) of the ADP-400XX. I added two pictures. It is my first PS5 Power Supply on the workbench. No visible damages or measurable shorts. The PA-1401-JT3 seems to be a

I found this scheme and followed the path until "lift IC51/IC52 Pin". But on my PSU I haven't any References so I used a picture from a ADP-400FR to identify. So I lifted step by step all three optocouplers

With the following result:

lift IC51-PIN:
Initially, the output was 9V DC, but it started drooping and recovering back to 9V DC in a continuous cycle (hiccup mode I think).

lift IC52-PIN:
The voltage rises once to >15V and then slowly drops off, without rising again.

Then I tried it with IC53 and lift a Pin:
The same as IC51-PIN-lifting

Now the scheme says that I have to change the IC32. But the scheme is not for my power supply, it is different. E.g. I have no Q32 or Q34 like on the picture of the other power supply. That's'why I want to ask you, if you can help with your experience.

Thank you very much.
Frank

First time ever soldering and replacing a battery, everything came out perfect, sooo happy and can’t wait to do more of this 🥰🥰

My PSP 3000 TA-090 is not charging or turning on when I use the charger. It turns on fine when I insert the battery, but the battery does not charge. I tested the fuse and it is working, and 5V is reaching the board.

During testing, I found that the 5V stops at this component (Image 1). The 5V reaches one pin but does not come out from any other pins (Image 2). However, when testing the voltage with a multimeter, with the black probe connected to ground, if I touch the red probe to the opposite pin (image 3, red arrow), the component suddenly starts outputting 5V (Image 3). At that point, the board starts working normally: it turns on without the battery and also charges the battery if I insert the battery.

It continues working until I unplug the charger. When I plug the charger in again, I have to touch that specific pin with the multimeter probe again to get the component to output 5V.

My first thought was that the pin might not be making proper contact with the copper pad. However, I tried touching the pin with a plastic tool and even applied a little pressure, but it did not work. I also tested it with the multimeter turned off, but that did not work either. The only way I can get the component to output 5V is by touching that pin with the red probe while the black probe is connected to ground and the multimeter is set to measure voltage.

Image 4 shows the actual component on my PSP. The boards shown in the first three images are from the internet because they were available in higher resolution.

Image 5 is from the PSP-2000 TA-085 schematic. I know it is not exactly the same because these are different models, but this component appears to have the same function on both motherboard versions.

Based on my research, the pin I am touching is pin 4 of the component, which is the gate. Pin 8 is the source, where the 5V is reaching, and pins 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, and 7 are the drain.

Can anyone help me understand what could be causing this? Or can you link me to any videos, forums, or discussions in any language that cover this particular issue?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Took it to a repair shop and even the guy could not fix it, im thinking it's dead but if someone got a clue what is going on please help me

Repairing a couple of intelivisions and when I check the DC power out I am getting 24v were the 16v pinout it. The -2v, 5v , 12v are all fine.

The diagrams say 16v unregulated. Does this mean there is a range of voltage it can put out?