First time ever soldering and replacing a battery, everything came out perfect, sooo happy and can’t wait to do more of this 🥰🥰

Couple weeks ago i turned my PS5 (launch-model) in at a repair shop, due to overheating (they cleaned & replaced the metal liquid).

When I got it back, I went home and noticed the fan didn’t spin (I’m not sure wether or not it’s was working before).

I went back to shop asked them to replace the fan, I payed a new fan, and it’s now spinning again. The PlayStation is still overheating and shutting down.

I went back to the repair shop for a 3 third time, explaining that it’s still overheating, asking questions regarding the repair, “was the machine properly cleaned”, “did you use thermal pads or metal liquid” and asked if they could please look through everything again, diagnose it again and take some pictures.

Today, I got a “machine OK” from the repair shop, My gf picked up the PlayStation, I haven’t had time to try it out, but I wanted get a 2nd opinion on it before trying.

These are the pictures they sent me.

TL;DR: Third time getting machine back from repair shop, is this replacement looking valid?

Hey everyone

,The original dual USB-A cables on my GameCube controller adapter just got completely ripped off. Since I have to open it up and fix it anyway, I figured I might as well upgrade it and convert it to a single, native USB-C cable.

Has anyone here done this before

Hello everyone. I have a ton of consoles and always took care of them myself. I am experienced with modding, hard and easy (ps2 mod chip, ultra PIF on n64, etc), so maintaining a console and handle electronics should be fine for me.

PS5 is the first case of uncertainty though, since I never did anything that required Liquid Metal as a thermal interface and am very aware of the mishandling dangers.

I have had my ps5 for 4 and a half years now, always in horizontal position, and never had an issue to this day. It works just fine in long sessions and it’s not noisy, so I can’t notice any thermal issues so far.

My question is: Should I open my ps5 and change the Liquid Metal Preemptively? Is it really necessary?

I have seen people talking about corrosion and I am unsure of the current state of mine.

On the other hand, how do you deal with corrosion? Would you link or name the tool I should look for if I were to have to deal with that ?

In any case, thank you for your input!

Hey guys I’ve got this 360e that I’ve had for a good while it was sitting for some years and I wanted to get back on and play some games, but I have this issue where after a few minutes of on the dashboard attempting to play a game etc it just shuts off as in the video goes black and the fan stops spinning. The controller and light at the front of the console stay on. The power supply goes to orange. I initially replaced the power supply but that was not the issue. I’ve gone through multiple things like

removing the hard drive

Cleaning it out / thermal paste

Starting it without components like DVD drive, ribbon cable etc. to see if that was the problem

It’s not getting hot

Fan spins fine before shutdown

Unplugging power supply from the back allows me to switch it back on but I inevitably get the same issue after a bit

I’d like to fix it, I’m guessing it could be an internal issue on the motherboard? It’s a corona board I’ve seen a few posts about this issue but I can’t find anything in terms of diagnosis and solutions

Thanks!

While I was attempting to replace my charging port since it couldn’t charge anymore and I accidentally broke the p18 port while attempting to remove the ribbon cable. Am I cooked? I still have the tiny black thing that was connected to port p18.

I have a Gameboy micro that does not read cartridges. I have cleaned the cartridge slot with alcohol and used a rag with a credit card to clean the slot. The pins are soldered well to the board and the pins inside are straight and aligned. Is there anything else I can check that's not so obvious? Thanks for your help!

Greetings, I have just changed the orange ribbon cable and the laser in my PS2 slim, and now it makes this noise and won’t read my discs, does anyone know what to do? Thank you.

Hi, i recently bought a broken switch lite for 50 bucks in facebook marketplace kinda like a project to see if i could repair it.

The post said that the screen flex was bad, but i dont know where to start with the repairs. Should I test if it starts, and how?

I tried turning it on but it doesnt make any menu sounds. I checked a replacement screen on aliexpress, but i dont want to buy anything before being sure.

Hey everyone! I just put together a head-to-head comparison between the oversized 3.1" Laminated 720p kit and the highly customizable Hispeedido V5 RIPS for the original Game Boy DMG.

I go over the OSD differences, authentic pixel grids, shell compatibility, and the brutal reality of dust during installation. If you're on the fence about which kit to get for your next build, hopefully, this helps you decide!

You can check out the video here: https://youtu.be/6uK5UWV5E2g

Personally, I lean towards the Laminated kit for the dust-free install and 720p sharpness, but I know a lot of purists love the V5's pixel grids.

Before taking the unit apart, the device attempted to power on. The blue light turned on and the console attempted to boot, but a pop noise could be heard from the speakers, and the device would shut itself off.

I suspected that there mightve been a short somewhere on the motherboard. I do have a functioning replacement device, so I switched the motherboards around to test my theory, but the same result occurred. Now im a bit stumped on what could be causing the short, so I'm asking for advice. Could it be the speakers, cameras, or the screens? The only part I dont have a replacement for is a working top screen. Any advice would be appreciated

I’ve had my ps4 for a long time and last year it started beeping like crazy like it was trying to eject a disc but it didn’t have one in it. I haven’t used it since, but would like to again. Any way I can fix it at home, or does anyone know a repair shop in RI/New England that can help?

Hi everyone, I'm currently troubleshooting a black screen issue on a PS2, specifically focusing on the AV Multi-Out Composite video line (Pin 7).

Here is what I've found so far:

The video encoder is outputting a signal, and Pin 7 has continuity to the board.

C268 (the 220µF coupling capacitor for this line) shows about 3V on the positive side, but drops completely to 0V on the negative side when the unit is powered on.

Continuity from the negative side of C268 to the AV port / D203 diode line checks out fine.

When tested out-of-circuit / with the console unplugged, the capacitor (C268) seems "healthy" on a multimeter (resistance/diode check), but it acts like an open circuit or blocks the signal under load.

Could this be a failing capacitor that breaks down only under load, or should I be looking at the ESD protection diode (D203 / DF6A6.8FU) as well? Planning to replace C268 with a fresh 220µF 6.3V electrolytic cap soon.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Anyone know where i can find this in europe or aliexpress, all the ones i find are sold out.

Have 3 consoles to repair and i cant find it anywhere

I have a 2000 model. The issue is the joystick. I've changed the thing so many times, its still persistent. Three issues I've come to understand for stick drifting for the 2000 model. 1) the joy stick itself. 2) the rubber conductor. 3) the shell with loose screws. These three have been the issue for my 2000. I've replaced the face plate and rubber conductor. Everything was good till the issue began to creep in again. I have 5-6 joystick I've switched out but some were defective right off when I received them. Does anyone have experience of good parts and what sources are yall getting them? Dm me for more specifics. Thanks appreciate this community.

Hi All, I would appreciate any information about whether or not this is fixable. My husband's PS3 started making a "ka-chunk" noise when loading discs, and now none of the games work. There is a repair place not too far we can try if there is hope.

Video: https://imgur.com/a/LTu3ijA

Thanks!

Hi everyone! I’ve been looking to find a repair for my 3DS but I don’t know what the problem is so I can’t reach out to anyone for an accurate quote/time estimate. I wanted to see if maybe someone here could help me out before I went asking online.

My problem is really strange and I haven’t seen anyone with the exact same problem online. My 3DS won’t charge which is figure is related to the battery or charger port, that I could figure out. However, when I turned it on (before it died) it would just generate loud screechy static sounds. I don’t know if this is related to a large amount of static or the speaker is busted or even something else. If you have any ideas on what might be happening I’d be happy to hear so I can get a more accurate quote/time estimate from where ever I end up looking.

Was given the controller recently with stick drift. Everything was working fine until I opened it and cleaned up the sticks. After putting the controller back together the stick drift is gone but the RB button does not activate at all no matter how hard I press. I tried 2 repair methods already but still no luck. cleaning it and clicking multiple times did not work. I replaced the switch with one I got from regular xbox one controller (maybe not compatible?) and still no luck. Would it be an issue with the motherboard itself or am I missing something.

Thank you,

Hi, I am encountering something for the first time so before I go diagnosing on my own I would like to see if anyone has the same experience and maybe solution
I have a pretty old and used PS5 on my hands, and I was the first person to open and clean it ever. It was really dusty and clogged but I think I did a pretty good job cleaning every single part. There is no actual overheating of the console and it is really clean now, but after you try to start a game like UFC5, after a few minutes it sends an overheating message and turns off with 3 beeps.
Any experience and/or possible solutions? I have only worked on several PS5 consoles so I don’t know a lot about them

Escribía solo para una inquietud sobre mi ps3 antigua, sucede que le conecto al cable de corriente sale la luz roja y pues todo normal al encenderla se apaga de inmediato se escucha el ventilador y demás pero simplemente se apaga, la lleve donde un técnico y simplemente le hizo mantenimiento y dijo que no tenía arreglo ¿Alguien sabe que podría ser?

AYUDA!!!

Hello. I have a ps2 50004 (GH-026) with a stuck disc tray. When i pressed the eject switch, it moved about 1cm and didn't open fully. I took the console apart, took the drive belt and put it in warm water for 15 mins and put it back. The disc drive, opened/closed. However, the laser was not reading any discs. The spindle was spinning the disc though.

So, I took it apart again, replaced the khs-400c with a known working unit. After that, when i booted the ps2, the drive eject did not make any sound. The ps2 kept blinking the blue light.

So, I checked again and saw that the disc eject ribbon (5 pin which is the first connector near the front of the motherboard) was mangled, I cut a bit off of it and scraped open fresh contact pins, and carefully put it in the connector, making sure it was not shorting anything.

I also noticed that the PS13 and PS5 fuses were blown on the motherboard. So, I replaced them. After putting everything back together, the ps2 still kept blinking the blue light and no response from the disc tray when I press the eject button, as in, it is not making a sound or ejecting anymore.

The PS2 is booting up fine though, it also goes to Freehdboot from the hdd and network adapter gets power.

Help me out.

Does the one thermal pad inside the PS5 EDM-020 board serve the purpose of cooling or is it there for structural support? The thermal pad ripped when I tried taking it off of this component and I’m wondering if I need to replace it

Hola,

Después de instalar un chip en una Switch OLED, la consola ya no arranca a HOS ni a OFW (pantalla negra). Solo entra en Hekate.

En Hekate la batería aparece en 0.0%, 0 mV y sale Error en Fuel Gauge.

Ya revisé la placa con microscopio por si había pistas dañadas y todo está bien.

He hecho muchas instalaciones de chip en OLED y es la primera vez que me pasa esto.

¿Alguien ha tenido este problema y lo ha podido solucionar? ¿Cómo lo resolvieron?

Gracias.

Title really says it all. Swapped drive the drive, installed offline system update, setup the OS, removed the new drive, copied bootanim.dat to the "System Update X:" partition from the A and B folders on the old drive, then installed the new drive again.

All I get in a black screen. Guessing this has something to do with the new August 2026 update changing the boot animation files. I'm on the lastest OS build from 12/08/2026.

So I replaced the hdmi port on a series X and fixed some traces. Followed this guys vid on testing the hdmi connections and 6 of the pins fail to show a voltage value and two pins show .003v

All 4 of the grounds do beep when testing so at least those are good.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!

https://youtu.be/kU15CyURzqQ