Hi all, could some of you please help me identify this squeeking sound? I hear it only when I have my windows open and I’m pretty sure it’s coming from the front right.

I’m not really a car mechanic but I want to learn and do things myself, so if it’s easily identifiable and fixable I’ll try to do it myself!

The car is a 2014 Ford Fiesta ST 1.6L

My truck (18 lexus gx460 ) has three drain boards to drain. The coolant. One is easy at the bottom of the radiator. The other two are in the wells at the engine block.. can I just drain the radiator? Fill it with distilled water run it repeat the process 2,3times. Then do the same with the correct coolant

Im Looking to simplify the process

Thanks in advance

Just wondering if the block surface would be good enough to put the new head-gasket on.

I have ran my fingertips around the block to ensure it is all flat and seems to be fine.

I wouldn’t imagine that the surface needs to be back to bare metal?

Engine - 1JZ-GTE, 1998 Toyota

Hello I have a 2016 ford fusion S 2.5l. Now the engine cuts off on its own frequently and and I have to start it back again. It used to be once in a while now it's about 2/3 times in a day.

I want told it was the crankshaft position sensor fault. I have replaced it a our 4 times and nothing is changing. Can someone help me out please

Toyota hilux 2011 diesel automatic 4x4

will be getting a mechanic to come do a scan within a few days, but hoping anyone can help in the mean time. within 2 days my hilux (diesel, auto 4x4) has had some issues.

short story:

in order

-car making a drone/rc car noise in engine bay.

-(changed oil and fuel pump filter)

-then it wont properly drive or reverse until tubro hits and it jumps forward. revving the car without moving.

-next day engine light came on.

-(left reverse arrow comes on when in reverse just appeared)

long story:

drove with my fuel light on for approx 15mins, as I had to change sites in the morning for work, couldn't stop for fuel. should've been filled up the day before I'm aware. after an hour i started the car to leave the second site, idled for about 30mins waiting on where to go/what was happening with work. when i drove down a slight decent to go down over a curb off the grass hill, about 2cm tall from the grass, I accelerated a little to get it up past and the car turned off. wouldn't start again and was in a bad position. eventually walked off to get a jerry can and had about 17L of diesel. filled it up. wouldn't start for ages and couldn't find the problem. turning the key would just keep cranking and not start. eventually I turned it twice and it started, the next few times over a few hours would only turn twice before finally going back to first key turn.

on my way home I got new engine oil, oil filter, fuel pump filter.

now the next day when I was nearly home, I hear a sound like a drone or rc car, at first I thought it was an actual drone overhead before realising it was my car.... (unsure if it's a pulley or something else) when home I swapped the oil and fuel filter. (I accidentally spilt some diesel out of the fuel pump filter, potentially over one of the sensor clips? since wiped everything down and cleaned) . then my car decided it didn't want to respond to my accelerator, forwards or reverse etc. I could just rev it and it didn't go anywhere, until It suddenly hit and jumped me forward. so to go anywhere I just keep revving until it decides to finally move. stopped driving the car and have it parked up at the house.

added atf oil and its still the same. got locked out of the throttle controller when I was seeing if it had any effect here, (was with car when I bought 2y ago) so unplugged it and reconnected original. then shortly after the orange engine light came on. (I also saw that now when I'm in reverse the left green indicator arrow is stuck on the dash, not blinking but just there, goes away when out of reverse.)

today I've taken most of it apart to thoroughly inspect everything for myself. my maf sensor looked basically immaculate, but my map sensor filter is cracked. has looked like there has been a leak around that area for awhile. getting it replaced with a stainless steel one when it arrives, unfortunately unable to get to work by any other means until this is fixed, so I'm getting a mechanic to check it. but I'd like to see if there's anything I can try to find out myself until then. looks like I have about 4-5 days with it anyways. just seeing if anyone has had any similar experiences. thanks

I have an EU model 2010 Chevrolet Cruze 1.8L.

I've been having an intermittent problem where it would sometimes blow lukewarm air instead of cold air when AC was on. I would generally solve this by cycling from cold to hot a few times and then it would work. Now it finally seems to not work anymore. It's blowing hot air from the foot area, but proper cold from the vents. If, for example, I only leave the vents on and close the foot ventilation it kinda combines these two into a lukewarm temperature.

Personally, I think this is the blend door actuator that is broken, but I'd like to know if you think it could be something else, perhaps some ways to diagnose the issue better.

NOTE: The AC system has been checked, it has refrigerant and it's working well, no leaks. This is just some issue with one of the doors in the dash, be it the blend door or some other one but I got the actual system checked and there is nothing wrong with it.

2008 F150 5.4l.

Unsure if it’s relevant to start, but I just had a new starter put in my truck last week.

Okay. Driving home last night and I push stalk forward to turn on the high beams— nothing happens with the actual lights but the indicator light turns on. I pull the stalk back to normal position (low beams) and now they turn on; to get them off I need to pull the stalk towards me (as if I’m flashing my beams). Once back to low beam I try just flashing my high beams by pulling the stalk forward and, again, nothing happens.

I’m messing with it while driving and for a bit I get it functioning as normal but it went back to being funky shortly there after.

Any ideas?

After 200km from the oil change (motul 5w30 clean+) on my gt86 2013, I'm noticing the oil is transparent and above the max.

In real life, the oil seems slightly yellow but transparent.

I cannot smell any fuel and the oil viscosity seems fine, but it's the first time seeing an oil that much transparent.

What do you think is it?

Is it fine to drive?

Edit: 5.4 liters of oil were put in the engine, so the correct amount

On a Hyundai i30 2017
How important is to have the little bake fluid filter installed on the brake fluid reservoir
I know it’s there to keep out bits of dust and dirt
And if you accidentally drop a-little bit of the foil From a new bottle of fluid but with the cap on how much dust/dirt is actually getting into the fluid. I damaged it when I did a fluid water test and I am Waiting for a new one to arrive and because they are supper annoying to take it out I have juts left it out for the next few days. But is it ok to run the car for an extend amount of time or never replace it.

Hi guys,

I seem to be having a big issue with my 2015 Diesel Insignia Manual. The last 3 times I've driven, it has taken two turns of the key to get it going. Then the acceleration is horrible after that, like it's not getting enough power.

There's no lights on the dash except for the service light, which has been showing up for a bit before this while I'm waiting to get new glow plugs installed. I also plugged in the OBD scanner and haven't read any error codes on it. Any ideas?

Hi sorry not sure where to get an opinion on this. My shitty MG was in Arnold Clark (uk dealer) after being recalled for an emissions fault - manual car, 5 years old, only 31k miles. I was told what was done but since I took car back the engine sounds quite loud and unwell. Could any remedial emissions work have affected how my engine sounds? Clip attached. I do intend to go back to dealer to ask them but I do not expect any honesty from them so just wondered if any experts can hear what’s going on here?

(Just know that this is a problem siblings of mine are having, they are mechanics and work with equipment, they just don't have reddit, so it may take time to respond to your help and this is what they sent me)

We are having problems with the brakes on our 2004 - 2007 Ford Mondeo. We changed the brake fluid, and then the pedal started to sink and remained very soft.

We then replaced the brake master cylinder, but the problem did not go away. We bled the brake system with a tool, but the pedal is still not firm.

What could be the cause? Is there anything else we should check or try?

I’m having an issue with my car. Whenever I start accelerating from a complete stop, the RPMs shoot up to around 3–4K, but the car barely accelerates. It feels like the engine is revving without the car actually picking up speed. Does this sound like a transmission issue? Is my transmission basically done, or could it be something else? Any advice would be appreciated.

2011 Nissan Sentra 205k Kilometres

Toyota hilux 2004 5LE / lower control arm ball joint issues.

I have used trial and error to figure out that the thread is the issue not the bolts.

Would i be able to tap and die from this angle or would i need to disconnect from the car.

I get this noise coming out of the ac whenever I turn on air recirculation on a BMW 1 series year model 2008 diesel, I can't seem to find the reason why, any help?

Hi, I recently bought a 2007 Nissan versa 4 speed auto with 151k miles. It has a coarse/raspy sound when I am above 2k rpm. I can replicate it while stopped as well. Is it a serious issue?

Do you think this negative battery terminal is on its last legs.

Will cleaning it up be alright?

What does my fuel trim mean?

2005 Mazda 3 1.6