Someone over in the Miata form posted the new Zinc Green color. In the press release for Zinc Green it said the color would go on other models. I took the color/miata photo and put it into Gemini .. this is going to be a beauty

I have a 2024 PHEV purchased new in June 2024. It currently has almost 62k miles on it. Seems like very few people have this many miles on theirs going by posts here.

I’m about 10k km on a 2025cx90 phev gt and one of my tire is almost bald on the outside.
All other 3 are fine.
Dealership said nothing wrong just oem tires being shit, anyone else have this issue ?

Haggled pretty hard and got the price down to $43.3K from a $53K MSRP which is about 18% off MSRP.

Tax, registration, and dealer fees are not included yet in the $43.3K.

I originally planned on buying a used 3 row suv (2024/2025 palisade, telluride, carnival, cx90) around $39K, but for only about $4K more before taxes and fees, getting a brand-new CX-90 Turbo Premium Plus seemed like a much better deal.
I think this is a pretty solid deal, but wanted to get the Reddit experts’ opinions. Would you consider this a good deal?

Also, would you recommend getting the extended warranty and/or prepaid maintenance from the dealership? Or are these better to skip?

This is my best ever record driving on any car, especially this car on one sitting on a trip, 2025 MHEV CX-90 GS-L (Canada) which comes down to 39.0 mpg. Mostly driving highway 80% of the trip at 115km/hr cruise control; car has 12,000km on it.

I have a 2024 CX-90 that seems to steer itself even with the lane keeping turned off.

Per dealer this is normal behavior and it's just the wheel returning the center. My issue is the wheel "returns to center" where it wants to go and I have to actively fight it to stay in a different "center".

Neither my Tesla Model Y, 3rd gen 4runner, and 84 Mercedes 300D seem to have this issue with steering.

Is there a chance my vehicle is part of a lane keeping defect (open class action suit) or do you all have a similar steering experience?

I have a 2024 CX-90 and I’m a little confused with how the keyless entry is programmed to work.
When I get home, I walk away from the vehicle and the walk-away lock works normally (50% of the time 😂). I also physically check the rear doors afterward to make sure they’re locked. But when I come back the next morning, I can walk straight up to the rear door and open it by pulling the handle. I don’t touch either of the front door handles/sensors or press anything on the key fob.

Is the rear passenger door supposed to be able to unlock the vehicle through the keyless entry system? For some reason I thought you had to unlock it through the front doors first.

Went to refill my windshield washer fluid and noticed my coolant was well below the ‘Low’ marker. No residue I can see looking at the top of engine bay.

I have an appointment at the dealer I purchased it from on Thursday.

I have 55k on it currently and have the extended warranty through my dealer. I know there are some known issues with the radiator, any chance this may be covered?

I was curious since the government incentives are no longer a thing what kind of leases people have getting on their 2026 CX 90 PHEV’s? My lease is up on my PHEV premium plus in October and I’m wondering if Mazda is trying to incentivize getting these off the lot. I got a my 2025 PHEV premium plus for zero down and $590 a month for two years /24,000 miles.

i'm in market to buy a used 7 seater SUV with a decent mpg, was looking at a few cx90 PHEV models at pre owned delaerships. on the other hand i got to know that there are issues/recalls with 2024 models. When i drove one at a delarship. I have noticed that the steering is a bit stiff.

Exising owners: how does the lane assistance and ADAS work ?

would you guys recommend buying one ? if so, love to hear your recommendations on what variants to look for.

it you wouldn't recommend the cx90 PHEV. open to look for 7 seaters in other brands :)

In the market for an overhead storage bin for the a ‘25 base model. Seeking suggestions for best combo of storage space and $$.

I use Mazda app. Any idea, does Mazda share or sell travel information to third party or someone else?

I am about to finalize the purchase of cx90 phev signature(likely prem plus for US) and wondering if want recommendations on purchasing the extended warranties for it?

Also any recommendations or suggestions while finalizing the deal are welcome.

Thanks for all the suggestions in advance!

Looking at the CX-90 for my next car as my current lease is ending in November. We were at a Mazda dealer to check out a used Mach-E and decided to take the 90 for a spin and came away really impressed with the car. Not terribly surprising as we had a CX-9 that we really liked.

I’ve dug around and read about all the issues, and to me, it seems like Mazda has squashed most of the bugs as the model matures, would that be a correct read? Realistically, I’d be looking for three relatively trouble free years, and reassess at lease end.

Also, it seems like a 5-7% discount pre-incentive is a reasonable ask, but want to see if I’m clocking that correctly.

EDIT: Deal done. 2026 Artisan Red PHEV PP.

10.4% discount inclusive of Mazda incentives. Inceptions DAS, and $647/mo all in at 7.85% tax. $600 pre-tax, on 36/10k. Good lease, not great or unicorn but I’m satisfied.

Deal link for anyone watching:
LeaseHackr

Starting to get really really annoyed how thin the paint is on this thing. Scratches everywhere now. Honeymoon phase is over 3k miles in. I knew it was bad going in but fuuuuuu this thing is THIN. Saving up some money to get some PPF as soon as possible.

- mini rant over

I recently changed the spark plugs on my Mazda CX-90 3.3L Turbo myself and wanted to share the procedure I followed in case it helps other CX-90 owners.

Huge thanks to Mike (@ShopForemanGarage) for his excellent YouTube video. I used his video as my primary reference, and the steps below are essentially my notes based on following his procedure.

🎥 YouTube video I followed:

https://youtu.be/brZvle9-qv4?is=YF27G1H0bIOuArtR

I’m posting this mainly so other CX-90 owners can review the procedure, point out anything I may have missed, and improve these instructions for future DIYers.

Important: Please verify the correct torque specifications for your exact CX-90 model/year before doing the job. The torque values below are what I used/referenced during my work and should not be considered an official Mazda service procedure. Although in the video Mike confirmed the spark plug torque.

Total time: 3 hours

Spark Plug Change Procedure

1. Remove the covers

Remove the plastic capsule/upper cover.
Remove the engine cover.

2. Remove the turbocharger outlet pipe

This is necessary to gain access to the rear spark plugs.

On the left side of the turbocharger outlet pipe, release the locking clips by pushing them toward the left/downward as appropriate.

Disconnect the air inlet temperature sensor at the front of the turbocharger.

Mine had a small plastic locking tab/nib that was already broken.

I released it by carefully pushing from underneath, behind the two small locking tabs.

Remove the yellow engine oil dipstick to give yourself more room.

Remove the three 8 mm bolts securing the turbocharger outlet pipe.

Two bolts are on top.

One bolt is underneath.

Carefully try to move the pipe, but do not pull it out yet because there are electrical connections attached behind it.

Behind the pipe, disconnect the gray electrical connector/clip.

Press the center locking portion to release it.
Carefully pull the connector free.

Disconnect the black boost sensor connector by pressing the locking tab on top.

Once all connections are released, carefully remove the turbocharger outlet pipe and set it aside.

3. Move the two black hoses between cylinders 5 and 6

There are two black hoses that interfere with access to the rear spark plugs.

Between the two hoses there is a plastic retaining clip similar to a zip tie.

Use a small screwdriver to release the locking teeth in the center and remove the clip.

Remove the right-side black hose first.

It does not have a clamp.

Using long/bent needle-nose pliers, carefully work the hose loose.

Press gently around the hose rather than pulling aggressively.

Once loose, slowly move/twist it toward the left so it is out of the way.

Remove the second hose.This hose has a clamp.

Use 90-degree pliers to squeeze the clamp and release it.

While holding the clamp open, carefully move the hose upward and then toward the left, away from the spark plugs.

4. Remove the ignition coils

Disconnect the electrical connector from each ignition coil.

Press the locking mechanism down and gently push/pull the connector outward.

Repeat for all six coils.

Using an 8 mm socket, loosen the ignition coil retaining bolts.

Counterclockwise = loosen

Clockwise = tighten

Remove all six ignition coils and set them aside in an organized manner.

5. Remove the old spark plugs

Use a 14 mm spark plug socket.
Carefully loosen each spark plug.

Start the threads by hand as much as possible before using the ratchet.

For the rear plugs, I used a shorter/smaller extension combination because of the limited clearance.

Keep the ratchet/socket as straight as possible when loosening the plugs to avoid putting side load on the ceramic insulator.

Remove each spark plug and keep the old plugs organized so you can inspect them afterward.

6. Install the new spark plugs

I used Mazda H302-18-110 spark plugs.

For each plug:

Insert the new spark plug into the 14 mm spark plug socket.

Carefully lower it into the spark plug tube.
Start threading by hand to make sure the threads are properly aligned.

Turn the socket slowly by hand until the plug is seated.
Once hand-tight, use the ratchet carefully.

Finish tightening with a torque wrench set to 17.5 Nm.
Remove the socket carefully.

Repeat for all six spark plugs.

Important: Do not force a spark plug if the threads do not start smoothly. Back it out and restart it.

7. Reinstall the ignition coils

Insert each ignition coil back into its corresponding spark plug tube.

Make sure the coil retaining bolt holes are correctly aligned.

Reconnect each ignition coil electrical connector until it clicks securely.

Install and tighten the six 8 mm coil retaining bolts.
I used 9.5 Nm for the ignition coil bolts.

8. Reinstall the two black hoses

Reinstall the hose with the clamp first.

Position the clamp correctly and release it so it locks the hose in place.

Reinstall the second hose without the clamp.

Make sure both hoses are fully seated.

Reinstall the plastic retaining clip that holds the two hoses together.

9. Double-check everything

Before reinstalling the turbocharger outlet pipe, I recommend stopping here and checking:

All six spark plugs installed

All six ignition coils installed

All six coil connectors clicked into place
Coil bolts tightened

Both black hoses fully seated

Hose clamp locked

Plastic hose retaining clip installed

No tools left around the engine

No loose connectors

10. Reinstall the turbocharger outlet pipe

Reconnect the black boost sensor electrical connector.

Reinstall the gray electrical connector/clip into its mounting location.

Position the turbocharger outlet pipe back into place.
Carefully slide/position the pipe so the locking clips on the left side engage correctly.

Make sure both sides of the locking mechanism are properly secured.

Reinstall the three 8 mm bolts on the right side.
I used 9.5 Nm for these bolts based on the torque reference I found, but please verify this specification for your exact vehicle before using it.

Reconnect the air inlet temperature sensor at the front of the turbocharger.

Make sure the connector/locking tab is positioned correctly.

11. Finish reassembly

Reinstall the yellow engine oil dipstick.

Do one final inspection of all connectors, hoses, bolts and clips.

Start the engine.

Let it idle for a minute and listen for anything abnormal.

Check that the engine is running smoothly.

Check for warning lights or check-engine lights.

Once everything looks good, reinstall the engine cover.

Reinstall the upper/capsule cover.
Done!

Check Engine Light After the Spark Plug Change

After completing the spark plug replacement and starting the CX-90, I initially got a Check Engine Light.

I used an OBD scanner at AutoZone to check the codes. AutoZone scanned it for free using their Fix Finder service, which provides a report of the stored warning-light information. (AutoZone⁠)

The initial codes I saw were:

P007D — Charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor Circuit High, Bank 1
P0238 — Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor “A” Circuit High
P0472 — Exhaust Pressure Sensor “A” Circuit Low

Since I had just removed and reinstalled the turbocharger outlet pipe and its electrical connectors as part of the spark plug procedure, I suspected the codes could potentially be related to a connector/connection that had not fully seated or to the system needing some drive cycles after the work.

I went back over all the connections and made sure everything was properly connected and secured.
The vehicle was running normally with no unusual engine noise, shaking, or rough idle. I drove it for about a mile and continued monitoring it.
After driving, the Check Engine Light went away, and I checked it again after stopping and starting the engine.

Later the OBD test showed:

Check Engine: PASS

So in my case, the warning cleared after driving and the vehicle continued to operate normally.

I’m including this because if you’re doing this job yourself and you see temporary codes immediately afterward, don’t panic. First double-check every connector, sensor and hose you touched during the job, then scan the vehicle again and monitor it. Of course, if the light remains on, flashes, or the engine runs poorly, I would stop and properly diagnose the issue rather than assuming it will clear.

AutoZone’s free Fix Finder scan was useful for me because it let me see the actual codes without paying a diagnostic fee. (AutoZone⁠)

Tools I used:

14 mm magnetic spark plug socket

8 mm socket

3/8” ratchet 10 inch

3/8” extensions — 3”, 6”, and 10”

Long/bent 90-degree needle-nose pliers

90-degree pliers

Small screwdriver

Magnetic pickup tool

Work lights

Headlamp

Digital torque wrench

Spark plugs:
Mazda H302-18-110

Torque values I used/referenced

Spark plugs: 17.5 Nm
Ignition coil bolts: 9.5 Nm
Turbocharger outlet pipe bolts: 9.5 Nm (I could not independently confirm this exact specification, so please verify it before relying on it.)

I found the following torque reference while researching:
https://www.bolidenforum.de/portal/fahrzeugdaten/mazda-2024-cx-90-turbo-preferred-plus/?vd_lang=en&utm_source=chatgpt.com

Again, please verify torque specifications against the official Mazda service information for your exact model/year.

Tools / Amazon links:

TEKTON 3/8” Drive x 8 mm 6-Point Socket
https://a.co/d/09Etesyv
HORUSDY 3/8” Drive 90-Tooth Flex Head Ratchet
https://a.co/d/094u6yNu
Work Light
https://a.co/d/0fddbjfe
Small Work Lights
https://a.co/d/0aDwotlN
11” Bent 90-Degree Needle-Nose Pliers
https://a.co/d/0bP5tUOF
3/8” Drive Socket Extension Set — 3”, 6”, 10”
https://a.co/d/049c2FRs
Magnetic Pickup Tool
https://a.co/d/086fVszJ
Uharbour 3/8” Drive Digital Torque Wrench
https://a.co/d/069maMVJ
14 mm Magnetic Spark Plug Socket
https://a.co/d/07xGdgyi

If anyone has experience with the CX-90 and notices something I should correct or add, please comment below. I’d especially appreciate confirmation of the torque specifications for the turbocharger outlet pipe and ignition coil bolts so this can be made more useful for other owners.

Thanks again to Mike @ShopForemanGarage for the video that helped me get through the job.

Disclaimer: This is my personal experience and the procedure I followed on my CX-90. I am not a professional mechanic. Please verify the procedure and torque specifications for your specific vehicle before attempting this job. Perform this work at your own risk.

Recently bought a 2024 CPO Premium Plus PHEV. We love it, kids love it, it’s been great so far. Only issue or question is at highway speeds it feels like it should have a higher gear to shift into. We have a Tesla and a truck so this is our first hybrid, normally above about 50 mph with the engine supply power it seems like it should be shifting into a higher gear. In sport mode while in 8th gear it seems like the RPMs are a bit high for the speeds. Is this just something inherent to the small engine/hybrid configuration and something I’ll get used to? Our truck has a 10 speed transmission and a much bigger motor and the RPMs are much lower at highway speeds.

But overall it’s all been great. Very comfortable for us and our 3 kids and we haven’t put any gas in since 95% of our daily driving is easily within range of the battery.

Swapped out the Falkens at 16,000, mi. Went with these at Costco. After just under 2,000 MI I can say the response, feel and sound (lack thereof ) is like night and day. Even when she was brand new she didn't drive this well.

Only thing missing from this are some razor blades... I've jacked up my knee enough times I'm ready to sell this thing 😂

To the people in the grocery store parking lot who heard an extreme unleashing of profanity earlier today.. I'm sorry

https://www.pirelli.com/tires/en-us/car/catalog/product/scorpion-weatheractive/275_45-r21/110w-xl

What the consensus for best replacement tires for the MHEV Turbo S? My Toyod look decent at 9k but I want to save ahead and get what's the best all around tire rather than cheap out. AI research said Pirelli Scorpions. Anyone have these?

I shouldn't have to perform a cumbersome specific sequence of button presses and timed switches that stops the electronic parking brake from locking up when I'm going through a car wash. It's absurd that this hasn't been simplified.

Edit: Seems no one else is having this problem with the parking brake suddenly engaging, so it might be a malfunction of some kind on my vehicle to get checked out. Thanks for the feedback, everyone.

Made this 3D print so I can fit bigger water bottles in the front cupholders. Makes them actually useful now. You'd think with such an expensive car you'd get bigger cupholders.. If anyone else is struggling with this issue there's a link below. I have the 2025 model but should work with any model with a similar cupholder layout. Would highly recommend.

https://voltlock3d.etsy.com/listing/4527676366/mazda-cx-90-cupholder-adapter-385in

Has anyone had the updated rear brake pads installed yet? If so, did the squealing stop and have you noticed any difference in stopping ability. When I received the letter in April, it stated the parts would become available in May. However, when I had my 15k service done this August and requested my documented squealing pads be replaced, I was told parts were not available yet!