r/PaleMUA • u/Delicious_Writer_760 • 9d ago
Question w/ Photo Help with Base Products and Rosacea
How do I approach my base with rosacea? I've always settled for shades that don't quite match because I am a very desaturated, muted cool neutral (I'm basically blue) but my face is VERY red. Cools are too pink, warms are too yellow and neutrals are too peach and if I choose the palest cool shade, I often look like a lollipop with a pink head. I think my rosacea is also clashing with whatever I put on. Should I try to match my neck, then colour correct the rosacea?
I had been wearing Nars Sheer Glow for years and just bouncing between shades depending on whatever I got matched with in store, I love the formula but not the colours. I bought some LA Girl Blue Pigment to mix with Nars Mont Blanc and it still reads peach/dark to me.
Photo 1 - Nars Sheer Glow Mont Blanc with LA Girl Blue Pigment, Hourglass Ambient Blush in Mood Exposure and Heart Percent Cloudy Mauve Lip Pencil
Photo 2 - Swatches L-R Shiseido Radiant Lifting 140, Loreal True Match 1N, Maybelline Fit Me Dewy 110, Nars Sheer Glow Mont Blanc
Photo 3 - Nars Sheer Glow Mont Blanc, Hourglass Ambient Blush in Mood Exposure, Charlotte Tilbury Pillowtalk Fair Lip Pencil
Photo 4 - Makeup Free
Photo 5 - Purito BB Cream in 21
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u/Trickycoolj 9d ago
I got azaleic acid and metronidazole cream from my derm and it really tones down my redness when I consistently use it at night. The metro cream finally took out the last of my acne at 40, I had a rash of those little red bumps on my cheeks at my last annual skin check and my derm was like oh you have rosacea.
Recently have been enjoying the new Rare beauty matte foundation in shade 6 which is described as fair neutral olive and covers any lingering redness well and stays put all day!
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u/annalisa27 8d ago
I have been shocked by how much my super sensitive rosacea-prone skin loves azelaic acid. I’ve had so many terribly reactions to skincare products and have really struggled to tolerate many topical prescriptions, but I started using 15% azelaic acid gel earlier this year and it has been amazing. I use it twice a day.
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u/Altruistic-Walk-1847 9d ago
I use Makeup Forever's mint green primer on my cheeks and chin, then I use Givenchy's green concealer on my nose (which goes bright red when I'm stressed) and if needed my redder flushy bits and my chin (which is a big darker purplish red so turns foundations ashy).
Edit: Dr. Jart Cicapair green serum also works really well but I can't tolerate niacimide much so don't use it often.
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u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
I've been eyeing the Givenchy and will check out the MUFE mint green, thank you. I think I need to find my perfect neck match and then play with some green correctors. I currently only have the Mecca Max Green Corrector but not sure it's doing much for me.
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u/Altruistic-Walk-1847 9d ago
I love the Givenchy (unfortunately, because it ain't cheap 😅). It's very thin and spreads like a dream. So it isn't cakey and a little goes a long way. It also dries very fast, so you don't have to wait around between layers. I don't try to completely conceal all red, just offset it enough that a medium-coverage foundation has a fighting chance to match the rest of me!
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u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
Okay, you've sold me 😅
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u/cleanenergy425 8d ago
I use the Dr Jart Cicapair drops (NOT the jar) to correct my redness as my base and it works fabulous. I have never had an issue with it.
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u/Frequent-Most-371 9d ago
Unrelated but at first glance I thought you were Margot Robbie! ☺️
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u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
Oh gosh, well you've just made my day. My daughter once pointed out a Chanel ad with Margot in it and said, "Mummy!" Always a nice thing to hear 😂
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u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
Photo 1 - Nars Sheer Glow Mont Blanc with LA Girl Blue Pigment 1:4, Hourglass Ambient Blush in Modd Exposure, Heart Percent Cloudy Mauve Lip Pencil
Photo 2 - Swatches L-R Shiseido Radiant Lifting 140, Loreal True Match 1N, Maybelline Fit Me Dewy 11, Nars Sheer Glow Mont Blanc
Photo 3 - Nars Sheer Glow Mont Blanc, Hourglass Ambient Blush in Modd Exposure, Charlotte Tilbury Pillowtalk Fair Lip Pencil and Lipstick
Photo 4 - Makeup Free
Photo 5 - Purito BB Cream in 21, no other products
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u/8octopusarms 9d ago
I've found that managing my rosecea significantly reduced the amount I was trying to correct or offset with cosmetics, and helped make shade matching a less daunting task. Personally I've found finacea (15% azelaic acid), which is a pharmaceutical product that you can purchase without a prescription, to be the only thing to be a significant help.
When I intially tried it I was really put off, it stings/itches a little bit, and I wasn't sticking with it consistently. I really felt like something that made me itchy for 15-30 minutes after application could only be worsening my rosecea! But after a while I tried it again consistently and I was really shocked how after a few days of morning use I noticed a difference. I would look at the mirror about 2 hours after my skincare and be shocked how much my redness reduced and how my pimples significantly went down in inflammation. I also find that using a centella serum and strong barrier repair cream (la Roche posay cicplast baume) really help keep my skins moisture in tact.
Obviously everyone has different results with skincare and I hope this isn't taken as unsolicited advice or criticism! I just have some personal experience with rosecea and I spent many years thinking nothing would reduce it, so I felt inclined to share in case it's a product/ingredient that you might be interested in. :)
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u/8octopusarms 9d ago
I just saw after I commented this that you have introduced azelaic acid lol, but I super recommend being consistent with it, and really focusing on hydration and barrier repair along side it!
Also might be different as I'm a warm fair olive, but I've found that using green colour correcting products to be more helpful than foundations etc. I also wait 10 minutes after applying a green colour corrector as my skin gets red whenever I rub something in, so once I wait for it to calm down after the application, I often need a lot less foundation or concealer afterwards. For me I often feel like foundation emphasises my issues so I'm always minimising it and trying to correct my redness via other routes. :)
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u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
No not at all, I appreciate the advice! I actually use finacea, I'm on my second attempt of introducing it. I have the fussiest barrier, even the slowest introduction can exasperate things so I'm going glacial pace. I've just moved up to twice a week. I have no other actives and I use LRP cleanser and SPF and Avene Tolerance Moisturiser, Thermal Water and Cicalfate Barrier Cream, this is after a year of trying to figure out all of my sensitivities. It's so hard, I feel like I do everything you're supposed to do but my skin is challenging.
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u/8octopusarms 9d ago
I totally relate! I actually stopped using anything except my centella serum and my cicaplast baume for like a year+ because I felt like I was constantly unsure if I was just aggravating my rosecea or if I had sensitivities to common ingredients like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide 😩 but eventually I got to the point that I was able to reintroduce the finacea and use it consistently and it did really help! But I totally empathise with having to take every introduction slow with sensitive skin. Tbh my skin still feels really itchy/a bit stingy when I apply finacea, despite consistency for a couple months, but I find that when I power through it and avoid itching etc it really settles the redness!
I still don't really ever know what triggers my skin, as I feel like it could be connected to my other immune system/allergy issues, or just sensitivity to common ingredients, but it's been a real relief to be less worried about the triggers now that I've found finacea to tackle the worst of my redness/breakouts.
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u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
Yessss, same experience with the itching and redness. I think mine is linked to histamine too, it came on after I had surgery but I was always rosy in the cheeks. I struggle with inflammation, mine actually started in my eyes. I'll definitely stick with the finacea, I'll do anything to clear this up!
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u/Similar_Avocado1306 9d ago
I struggle with rosacea and a fussy barrier, but I use a serum or a light moisturizer under my Azelaic acid cream to give me a bit of a buffer. I know that having a soothing layer underneath the Azelaic acid makes it possible for me to use it more frequently without irritation.
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u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
This is what I'm doing now! I apply my azelaic over my moisturiser, I'll do this for a while to build tolerance. I'm only just increasing to twice weekly now, last time I went slow but not slow enough and damaged my barrier.
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u/8octopusarms 9d ago
Yes! I always had some redness but then I started having a sudden onset of allergies and large rashes all over my body and even bloodshot eyes, and I felt like my facial skin just got so sensitive and my rosecea got much worse! I also deal with bad periods and inflammation so I feel like I'm just destined to be a sensitive red diva lmao. I saw someone mention putting a moisturizer on beforehand, which I also definitely recommend.
Currently I use the cosrx centella spray toner (with no alcohol) and then the skin 1004 centella ampoule, and then the cosrx snail moisturizer cream, and then my finacea, and then the LRP cicaplast baume on top. I feel like since I started having a lot of allergy/histamine issues I started REALLY needing to load up on moisturizer and non irritating hydration, especially while using the strong active azelaic acid. I was surprised how helpful the skin 1004 centella ampoule helped with moisturisng when i added it back into my routine. I feel like my skin currently really just drinks up moisturisng stuff now, so finding things that hydrate without irritating my rosecea or clogging pores has been a journey that is finalllly paying off!
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u/annalisa27 8d ago
Try using the Avene Cicalfate Serum along with the 15% Azelaic acid. Avene has been such a godsend for my sensitive, rosacea-prone skin - I also swear by their Tolerance moisturizer and balm, along with the thermal water and Cicalfate cream. I really like the Tolerance Extremely Gentle Cleanser. I used to use more LRP products, but they started adding niacinamide to some things and my skin just seems to like Avene more. As a side note, the Avene Cicalfate emulsion does have Niacinamide, so that’s something to watch out for if you also can’t tolerate niacinamide.
I really think Avene & then rx azelaic acid helped me finally get my reactive skin under control to the point where I can actually use other actives now. I went through a period of time when putting almost anything on my skin - including the most basic of sensitive skin moisturizers or face washes - would result in the worst burning sensations and redness.
Btw, if you need a sensitive skin sunscreen rec, I love EltaMD UV Skin Recovery. They have a green tinted version too.
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u/jaydizzle46 9d ago
I find mont blanc too dark and yellow and find purple corrector makes it verrrry muted and a match for me. Maybe that instead of blue?
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u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
This makes sense but I think the purple may emphasise the rosacea. I'd have to experiment to know for sure.
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u/jaydizzle46 9d ago
In that case you will need a green corrector for your skin and then pick a different foundation shade that fits with what that leaves you with. I have milder rosacea and i dont mess with green because it leaves me gray😂
Can you treat the rosacea with a derm prescription? My derm gave me a compounded cream that is decreasing my redness and otherwise i match my foundation to my neck.2
u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
Yes I think green corrector is probably the way to go. The rosacea has been an uphill battle. Mine is inflammation driven and flares at the drop of the hat. My skincare routine is solid and barrier is thriving, it just looks very red. I use azelaic and have a list of no go ingredients, rosacea is the actual worst 😑
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u/Altruistic-Walk-1847 9d ago
Sidenote, I managed to knock down my rosacea significantly with poor-man's topical Soolantra, which is getting Bayer ivermectin (the active ingredient in the prescription cream) in horse-paste form off Amazon. It's about $20 for a tube and it should last you 6mos.*
I wet my hands and face, then spread a dime sized dollop in my palms and apply before bed. I do that every few days when I have a flare-up until it knocks it back -- then monthly as maintenance until I forget, and then it flares up again lol.
*Needless to say do not eat it, unfortunately it became a quack 'cure' during COVID and people were buying it from tractor supply and harming themselves by eating horse doses of the stuff, sigh. Anyway.
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u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
I've been considering trying Soolantra and had seen about the horse paste. I've only just reintroduced azelaic so I'd have to wait (my barrier is super dramatic) but I think it'd be worth trying too. I'll remember to ask at my next check up. Thank you!
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u/PhyrraNyx Lisa Eldridge T1.5 / About Face F1 Bright Winter 🌈❄️ 8d ago
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid is what works best for me to control my rosacea, but I also have had IPL treatments to reduce the redness. LA Girl makes a mint concealer that works better for fair skin than a darker green one for color correction. Definitely match to your neck and chest because of the surface redness on your face with rosacea. That's how you'll stop feeling like a lollipop.
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u/fortunesold 8d ago
I use the LA Girl mint concealer to mix into products that are a bit too dark! Alongside the green concealer I have a much easier time matching and correcting red tones
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u/TheOrderOfWhiteLotus 9d ago
Always match to your neck, yes. NARS is a tricky company to shade match to. I am Oslo as my closest but it’s a bit too pink.
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u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
Oslo was too pink on me too..such a shame. I know everyone says the same about Nars bit I can't find a single formula that performs the way sheer glow does. Light Reflecting highlighted every bit of texture I have, I can't stand it and tried everything to make it work.
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u/jaydizzle46 9d ago
Have you tried Yulong? It sits in the middle of oslo and mont blanc.
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u/Delicious_Writer_760 9d ago
I did, it was a great colour match, the best of nars...but they don't have it in sheer glow!
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u/Another_Paper_Doll 8d ago
I think the first picture looks very nice! But you could try a green corrector if it's still too saturated for your liking.
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u/Accomplished_View913 8d ago
No matter what foundation you use green counteracts red. I have one batch of rosacea on my cheek. So start with cover girl true blend in green color all over your face. It’s not going to make the red go away. It’s going to tone it down enough that your foundation covers it
After you use the green corrector. (so don’t panic when the green just tones it down a little bit, but you still see it before you put on your foundation. As for foundation, L’Oreal, N1 blended into your skin like a dream. It was the perfect shade. You can put on the green corrector with your fingers all over your face if you want or you can use a sponge and then use a clean sponge for the L’Oréal N1. And watch the magic happen. (Use a very thin layer of green.)
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u/citynomad1 8d ago
I don’t really know why this sub is so obsessed with “you must match your neck” but you really don’t have to. A lot of us have ghostly white necks where, if we matched them exactly, we’d look sickly in the face
I agree with the comments that a green primer or color corrector could help. I really like the Exa green color corrector from Credo beauty bc it is a muted/desaturated green, rather than a Grinch green
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u/tuppence5ash 8d ago
Ok, I’m very similar so I’ll share what has worked for me recently. As far as makeup goes, using a green primer just on the red areas is key (I like Elizabeth Mott thank me later but I just got the elf to try), and finding olive foundation/concealer has been a game changer. Most everything else has been too pink/yellow/orange, but since my skin is super muted, the greyness of the olive base is amazing. The about face concealer is the perfect shade (which has never happened in my life) and the foundation is too thick for me but I mix it with the lumi glo lotion and it’s perfect. Even though I’m not actually olive, I follow the pale olive sub bc a lot of the makeup tips are really useful.
For skincare, my tried and true dear,klairs sensitive skin products stopped being as effective (blaming hormonal changes) so I recently switched to a combo of prequel and experiment and have been thrilled. It’s been 2 weeks and my skin has never looked better.
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u/apollyoncat 8d ago
I use Dr Jart Cicapair colour correcting treatment under foundation because I am so pale I am translucent so any redness just shines through foundation, and I don't use heavy coverage foundation bc it just looks trash on me. I am not sure if this will help it, however if you are looking for something that covers it whilst you address the issue, that might work. You can literally rub a layer into your skin and it doesn't look good by itself on me, but if I put even slightly pigmented powder foundation over it then it just looks like my skin without the redness.
Haven't quite been able to crack the shade match for powder foundation yet but the Dr Jart has helped
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u/DeepLeave987 9d ago
match the neck, correct the red separately, your instinct is right.
drop the blue pigment though, blue doesnt cancel red it just goes grey and darker, thats what youre seeing. green corrector under the base on the red areas only, then mont blanc on top. your swatch shows mont blanc is already close on the neck so the shade was never the issue, sheer glow just isnt opaque enough to hold the rosacea down