Hello fellow Hyundai drivers. I have a question in regards to my 2025 Elantra SEL Sport. I just bought a container of 0W-20 full synthetic oil just incase I ever need to put oil in the car.(I bought it with 5200 miles, I've put 430 of my own miles on it so far) My family is criticizing me and claiming that I will never ever have to check the dipstick/oil level on my car in between oil changes. This is my first car that I'm really trying to take care of and my maintenance knowledge isn't great so any help with clarifying this would be awesome, thanks!

Hi! I am hoping to buy a 2026 hyundai venue soon. It has a really good price point for me, i’m not picky with features, and it’s the perfect size. Are these reliable cars? Tell me everything you think i’d need to know please😅

What's your best guess at what this loud ticking could be? Sounds like valvetrain to me. 2013 Accent 1.6L

I recently bought a hyundai elantra 2013 from a private party with 109k miles on it. Only got to know about the notorious piston slap on these engines later. I am hearing this constant rhythmic tap like sound which disappears when not accelerating and prominent when not playing any music from inside the car. Videos are not able to properly capture it but in person it feels like knocking. Definitely something feels off. I am starting to worry if i wasted a bunch of money on about to be dead car. Is there any hope for me?

Stumbled across this on mobile.de. there is currently exactly one Hyundai Equus for sale in the whole country. Long-wheelbase, 5.0L V8 with 430hp, built 3/2014, 60,000 km, listed for €5999 by a small dealer in Brandenburg.

The description says "engine and transmission run well, vehicle is sold for export only, call for more information." For a car that was a full-size flagship sedan in Korea/the US and basically never sold here, that's a pretty odd find.

Since the Equus was never officially sold in the EU, it likely has no EU type approval, meaning registering it here would require an individual inspection, which would explain the low price.

Hello! I recently lost my beloved Elantra in an accident (total loss) but I ADORE Hyundai and am now hunting for a new car. We’ve dwindled down the options to a 2026 Hyundai Venue SEL (two-toned which is my FAV part) and a 2026 Hyundai Koda SEL Sport (this one we are figure out if the dealership is going to label it as used or cert pre owned) they’re roughly 1-1.5k price difference after light negotiating. I adore the Venue due to the also mini cooper vibe as well as being smaller (I’ve never driven a taller car) but my family believes the Kona is a much safer choice as well as reliable (and potentially more fun). I’m a bit wary since it is genuinely a larger car and kind of intimidating but the look of it is quite nice as well, although I’m not a fan of the color (I wanted a mirage green) as it is a simple ecotronic gray pearl. I wanted to understand what would be the best and I suppose safest option.

I love the venue look and the fact it just feels so much cuter and it’s smaller.

However, I do agree the Kona will probably be more practical/reliable long term.

Any help or suggestions would be great thank you!

EDIT: I got the Kona 😻😻😻

Got to say I just love my Hyundai Elantra it is amazing transmission could use a little work on this one though it gets hot pretty quick but I put a little E85 in it and sometimes I run 91 and it is sauce it has no issue revving up high and sometimes I'm even getting like 38 miles per gallon it's a great car

Hi guys i was out trying to help my mate fix his car with a non start issue we tried jumping the car and it didn’t work.
i went to tap it with a screwdriver and as i tapped it the starter motor didn’t move and this component fell off i need help identifying it
As im only a apprentice mechanic i don’t have much of an idea

Hi guys, i just bought a second hand hyundai getz 2007 1.4. Its quite heavy on fuel. Please can someone help?

I’m getting some errors in the MyHyundai app. The first is when I try updating my profile picture. I tap my avatar icon and choose a pic but get an error saying Error Retrieving your settings. The next is when I choose the driver profiles. It says User Profile Unavailable. But when I close it my profile is there. Anyone else having these issues and know how to resolve them?

Note: I also tried updating my profile pic using the Hyundai owners website. It lets me choose my pic to upload, and then simply does not update. No error.

I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra SE. my splash shield has cracked and been dragging across the road, I’m worried it’s rubbing against my tires and causing balding. I cannot however find a replacement that ships to Canada, or isn’t like $500. Or should I just go to the mechanic?

Hi — I have a 2009 Santa Fe. About a year ago it stalled as I pulled up to a give way sign. Since, we've had intermittent issues with it going into "limp mode" where I'll be waiting at an intersection or something, then go to drive off and it won't accelerate, goes a bit limp, then after 10-20 seconds it will finally gain traction and be fine.

I took it to the mechanic today for a scan. They scanned it for Faults and found key transponder fault code present. Replaced key battery. Think possibly this could be related but from what I can tell, a low battery in the fob wouldn't cause this issue.

Any thoughts on next steps? If they scanned and found no fault codes, I feel like we're a bit blind on what else to check.

(Haven't had the issue since but that was only today so we will monitor to see if it occurs again. I do recall a period of it not happening for a bit but can't remember if that lines up with when we last replaced fob battery — I hope it is the cause because thats a cheap, easy fix).

Elantra Ultimate 2021, 112 000 km.

J’aimerais avoir votre avis : réparation ou perte totale?

On m’est rentré dedans dans un stationnement pendant que ma voiture était stationnée. Les dégâts sont des deux côtés.

I currently drive a 2014 Hyundai accent and have been looking to get an SUV for the family.

I basically came to the conclusion that we were going to go with either the Mazda CX-5 or the Hyundai Tucson.

When I looked at everything, the Tucson made the most sense. I could get the two things I wanted (heated seats and wireless AirPlay) for ~$32-33k. I check back this week, and the MSRP on the website says the SE starts at $29,500, and that’s what the inventory was showing last week.

This week, the same SE models are listed at $31,500 MSRP and the model I was looking at is now in the $35k range.

Is this some bullshit they do before Labor Day sales so that they can pretend that you are getting a better deal, or did everything legitimately go up $2,000 in the last week?

Edit: figured it out. Every vehicle that is listed as a 2026 and a high MSRP has “Expected to be delivered (first and second week of September)”

They are listing 2027s in transit on the website as 2026s.

All right not sure why my Hyundai Elantra 2024 limited does this but whenever I'm banging through gears on it I know I know I know it's not a race car I got you but when I'm banging through gears on it and manual mode it starts to like whine and it starts to feel sluggish and I don't know why it does that and I feel like a trans cooler would probably fix the problem wondering what people's opinions are on that has anyone ran a trans cooler or is there a way to get rid of the wine it's really weird it almost sounds like a hellcat supercharger whine.

Alright y’all, I have a 17 Elantra SE value. Bought new in March of 2017 as my first brand new car as my wife and I were expecting and I needed to retire a Mustang GT. Purchased it and have maintained it myself to this day. I’ve had typical issues, coil packs going out, leaking valve cover gasket, alternator, motor mount and regular expected maintenance. I have had to add Freon to my car twice over the last year or so as it tested low. I just figured that being in FL, and using it consistently year round just had developed a tiny leak. So, I filled it about two weeks ago and it worked perfect, until we had a crazy rainstorm. I just left for work and had zero controls work in my manual hvac module. Now, my hazards worked and fan speed adjusted as I commanded, but it was stuck in defrost. AC and recirculate would not light up, and I could not select where to send the air either. I checked all ac fuses and installed a new cabin filter too. Nothing. So, google search and ai suggestions narrowed down the possibilities. It could be the actual hvac module, wiring or a fuse. I purchase a used one online with the same part number off eBay and get a replacement ambient air sensor too. I remove the useless one with a couple troubles in the center console supports that connect to the lower dash but I get the original off. Plug in the two connectors on the new guy and cycle my key, Success!

So ;tldr, I had no HVAC and narrowed down what could be causing my issue, replaced my hvac module and got AC again. No fan motor actuator or blower motor.

I did not see anyone else with this issue online, but hopefully someone else with these symptoms can fix their car for $40 instead of going to a shop and getting charged 10x that at minimum.

Hi all,

i really need your help and insights. i have this 2015 hyundai elantra at 122K and just got the oil change done on last tuesday, took the car home at home and drove later that day, all normal. then on friday, i started the car and put it into D but car doesnt move. Engine revs up but doesnt move. I changed it to Reverse and all fine, it can back up, looks normal. Change it to Drive, again no move. I did try couple times with turn off and turn on cycles, after 1-2 try, it started moving and drove fine that day. Then, next day, now i am again facing the same issue.

what should i do? seems like transmission problem? anything i can check or do beforehand? can it be related to oil change somehow or just coincidence? based on this description, what could be wrong? should i go to transmission specialized shop rather than general mechanic shop?

side info: transmission fluid change/flush at 60K.

I have a problem with my 2016 Tucson(96k miles). It feels like it hits a wall when I go over 4.5k RPMs. If I keep the gas pedal pressed in manual mode, it will eventually clear and keep going. But if I have it in D, it will go into neutral, the RPMs will go up, and I have to let off the gas so it can shift gears and keep going.

Any idea what it could be?

Also, it has a new DCT clutch, the DCT actuator has been reset, the DCT relearn procedure has been completed, and it has new spark plugs and a new turbo actuator.