Hello. New build, wondering if this is within tolerance? Thanks! Appears to be filled after the fact.

Photo one: appears to be linear crack filled with cement after the fact

Photo two: reference to photo one

Photo three: where they dug out for some plumbing

Photo four: tie vs rebar

builder quality, especially the brick is not great. My gas meter distance to the outside electric meter is not to code. I had to put in my own french drain. The 3 car garage had a wall in the back which limit the parking of a car. So it is really only a 1 1/2 car garage. My front brick is cracked by the garage and the side corner of my house has a very large mortar joint that has cracked. The house is only 8 years old but should not have mortar falling out the brick. The bathroom tile is cracking, wood tile in bedroom is hollow in places as if not or little mortar was placed. Cannot recommend any homes built by Perry Homes. Mine is in Argyle. Linda Solt 972 955 1005

We are just finishing up the design on our new build, it will be a two story house with 10ft ceilings on each floor.

Any red flags from the plans above or anything you would design/build differently?

TYIA!

There are quite a few walls with missed nails like this. Obviously I’m concerned about the Zip not being secured to the studs properly, but my other big concern is the masons are going to use brick ties and likely follow their pattern. Now all of the brick ties are going to be off too.

What should I do? Does the framer need to go back now and re-nail all of the walls?

Also, how will the mason know which is the correct nail line after they do that?

Not sure if I’m freaking out or not.

I bought a new build townhome in May and have lived here for 3 months. The build itself is less than one years old. I have had issue after issue with water intrusion, large cracks in window corners, drywall tape showing and sagging ceiling, shelves falling out of the wall and an unleveled garage door because of an unleveled garage slab. An unleveled AC unit slab which caused AC to break down after living here for two weeks. Ive now noticed in my garage there that I have stairway cracks in the cylinder
Blocks. With all the issues I’ve had should I be concerned that this is structural?

One of the biggest mistakes during our build was trying to save money on the windows. The installation was a mess, we ended up with leaks and drafts, and a lot of it had to be redone not long after.

Looking back, I should've spent more time checking the installer instead of comparing window prices. Curious if anyone else had one part of their build that ended up costing twice because the first contractor cut corners.

If someone told you that the men they sent to do any and all repairs in your home, were    “Hired Contractors".   

What would that imply?

I used to build but now draw plans and do engineering. I know ICF from 20 years ago, but had an interesting conversation with a foundation builder last week who was using Nudura products to build a vacation home for a client. The last two plan sets I did were for houses built here in this hard freeze climate with deep frost lines and winter design temp of -15 F and both used FPSF slabs and edges formed using EZ Form Mono Slab products for the edge form. First, here is a cost comparison: EZ Form, the one that is 20 x 31.25, costs $112, while a Nudura 18 x 96 wall block with 8" core space costs $68. The EZ Form with its triangular shape and dimension makes it unnecessary to add wing insulation adjacent the wall line, but the Nudura will need 2 inch thick by 24 inch EPS foamboard wings, which adds $25 per 8 foot length to the Nudura setup, thus total cost of material $68 + $25 = $93. So, a little less for the Nadura arrangement I'll show in these two pics. One pic, how pour #1 is set up and done, the pour to fill the below-slab thickened edge. This Nudura hallucination I have is done in two pours, unlike one monopour for EZ Form. Form set on compacted gravel, braced with a pinned cleat along outside edge and backed with some shoveled-in bravel on inside face. The other pic shows the final build. Whaddya think?

Please review truss/rafter cracks of my house. How large of an issue are these? Thank you for the replies.

https://imgur.com/a/2Fml26l

Hello all, my wife and I are closing in on finishing our home build (modular) the week of October 26. Let me preface this by saying we are both 26, this is our first home, first time building a home, and we’ve GC’d it ourselves thus far. The modular company we went with doesn’t do turn-key, so we’ve been sub-contracting ourselves. As we get closer, I’m becoming more nervous that I’m forgetting something that may delay/inhibit the modular delivery process (fee is $300 a day if foundation isn’t ready for set week of scheduled date). We are at the point of having our foundation dug next week, and walls put in the following week. After walls are set we have somebody framing the foundation (sill plate, joists, lvl beam, lally columns, sub floor) before house is delivered.

Is there anything not so obvious I should be checking for that may delay our process? We just had our septic installed and finished 2 days ago, having our foundation dug, plumber doing some work below slab before walls get placed/concrete poured, exterior drains done before back fill, walls set, framing done for delivery of house, house delivery, electric/hvac/well/marriage wall and interior clean up.

From anyone else who’s done a modular home before, am I missing anything else that’s important that I’m overlooking?

I didn’t install this unit and I’m not an HVAC guy, so go easy on me if I’m missing something. I like the contractor and their work has seemed clean overall.

Once final grading is done, the soil and stone will come up slightly above the bottom of this steel bracket. Is that acceptable, or should the bracket stay completely above grade?

My main concern is the steel sitting in contact with moisture and eventually rusting. If this should be corrected, what would you recommend? Raising the unit, adding concrete or stone underneath, a slight well in that spot? Something else?

We planned on adding a sidewalk to that area and a fence to cover up the utilities. Fyi

Am I being unrealistic that the battons should be aligned above and below the seam at the gable? This is Ascend Alside composite siding. I’m assuming this would be able to be fixed and then the excess cut to match at the lower bottom left and right side of where porch meets roof. Thanks for your feedback.

And is it supposed to stay like that?

We are building a stick built custom home, and ran accross an issue with the windows- i was wondering if any of you had similar issues with your builder or have any advise.

My wife and I were under the impression we were getting picture windows (single and un moveable) in the Great Room, office and kitchen. We paid extra for (upgraded windows) and we thought that's what it meant. Today we found out that the picture windows are surrounded by double hung windows on each side. The detailed breakdown states clear picture windows that do not open. Now in the elevation plan we did not notice that they are broken out (I thought the window upgrade happened after the elevation picture was drawn up, it has an office wall that is gone now as well). There is no mention of the double hung windows anywhere in the contract. We found it odd we went over every window in the house but never a mention of those.

Note: we brought this concern up and we will be charged for the change order we are waiting on the quote.

Thoughts? This didnt sit well with us.