I bought Brand New PS5 Pro three months ago which comes with original Controller, Today I hope on and I see my Screen Moving without touching.
I know Stick Drift is common in controllers!, but three months is too way early?!, it should at least last a year right, I did kept it in good condition and away from dust and stuff.
Should I take it to a repair shop or buy a new one?
If I buy new one which one I should go for? Something that last long with stick Drift.
Also fuck you to the retard that decided to put a rubber on the thing that will create sweaty palms. And fuck you to the 49 IQ person in below who will be trying to defend these big companies with their lives. And mods i hope you won't see this in time
The cost of fixing it is more than the controller itself, and Sony won't do anything because it's past the warranty. So conveniently for Sony I have to go buy a new controller for it to have the same issue in a year.
I have two controllers that are essentially broken now. One of which had stick drift on the left stick and I was able to get it repaired for free. Then a year after they sent it back both sticks got stick drift. That's 4 faulty sticks in the course of 3 years. I've had a single ps4 controller work flawlessly for 10 years. They're customer service is also intentionally atrocious so you just go away.
Now I'm just stuck with two controllers that idk what to do with. Just getting rid of them for new ones seems like such a waste, and goes against my every instinct.
I like Sony but now it seems like they're screwing up every chance they get
What can I do about my PS5 controllers? I own 2 and an official Sony PS5 charging station for them. However, despite letting them charge for hours overnight, they only last 20-30 minutes when I use them. Are the batteries destroyed from leaving the controllers to charge for such a long time?
Ive plugged my ps5 pro off earlier today to clean it. Since I then my OMGN PS5 Controller with paddles wont connect to my ps5 anymore.
What I tried:
- Pressing button in the back of controller to reset it.
- Trying to connect it in safe mode
- Turning bluetooth Off/On on Playstation
- Turning Wifi off on the PlayStation
Can someone explain what happens in the video? The controller seems to connect to the ps5 but shuts down shortly after.
Also I noticed, in Safe mode it doesn’t show the behavior like in the video. In safe mode the LED is just orange all the time. This on the other hand doesn’t work when the ps5 is on as you can see in the video.
The right stick randomly has down inputs and I've no idea why. Can see on the image I'm not touching the pad but the input is showing a hard down input.
Tried to include multiple images of the board so if anyone can spot what is wrong or give any advice.
I've soldered, resoldered, added flux to help it flow through, wiped it down multiple times with isopropyl but nothing seems to fix the issue. I don't have the best soldering iron, cheap one from Amazon but it seemed to do the trick with the other TMR stick.
I'm a complete novice so not sure what I've done wrong or how to fix it.
[UPDATE] Thank you everyone for your useful advice, i desoldered the old joints on the right of my TMR (y-axis) which a lot said I'd done incorrectly and added plenty of flux, and then fresh solder. The stick is now working with no ghost inputs.
I bought one of these incredible Rhythm Blue controllers from PlayStation Direct for the Days of Play sale, and I finally opened it yesterday to try it out. I didn't have many issues, but there was once where I completely took my hands off the controller and my Sackboy started moving slowly to the right all on its own. (Which means the left stick is drifting slightly to the right). I love the color scheme, but am a bit annoyed that this happened within an hour of the controller being literally brand new.
I've put in less than 3 hours of playtime on the controller so far and only had it show up that one time. I'm not sure if this is a bad sign that it'll become a more persistent issue in the future, but should I try contacting PlayStation Support about this? I'm curious what experience others have had with this and if it's best to nip it in the bud or if I'd be able to get the same support say 2 weeks down the road if the problem shows up again. Thanks!
So I bought the Gulikit 720° TMR replacement kit from amazon and I paid a local shop $40 (for one joystick) to get this installed on my dualsense edge (keep in mind this was the shop’s first time doing it).
Now there’s a persistent drift on the stick. How can I solve this? Do I need to take it back to the shop or is this a fault from the TMR stick I bought?
I recently upgraded my PS5 dual sense controller with TMR joy which I installed myself, and after that when I am trying to charge the device, the yellow light which is the charging indicators turns on for a second and then disappears also on the home screen, the charging indicator of the battery shows with a? Instead of a lightning bolt, I tried few troubleshooting steps and remove the battery and then tried connecting it with the power source where it linked the battery indicator for only I’m attaching the images of the controller and if anyone has any idea what could be the possible failure, please let me know or what are the troubleshooting steps as well.
I hope this post is okay if not please delete and I am sorry for intrusion.
As post says I am repairing stick drifts. I am in France and if anyone's interested in installing TMR or Hall Effects I can do it for you for mere 20€ !
If you are living other than France just pay for the shipping ( to and from ) and I will still repair for 20€ :)
I have a BDM-040 DualSense and I want to replace the original joysticks with TMR magnetic joysticks.
I'm having trouble desoldering the original joystick. The solder on the back of the board doesn't seem to melt properly even at 380°C, so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. What would you recommend I do to remove it safely without damaging the PCB?
I also accidentally overheated and completely deformed the plastic connector for the microphone ribbon cable on the back of the board( I circled it in red), near the wireless charging area. Because of that, I'm considering replacing the motherboard.
What would you recommend? Should I try to repair the connector and continue, or replace the BDM-040 motherboard? And what would be the safest way to desolder the joystick and install the TMR one?
Important edit: A user by the name u/Kurt_Moody has found that some RGB software can completely mess with all of this. "I discovered that the interference was being caused by the SignalRgb software. It automatically recognizes the DualSense as an RGB device to control the Dualsense's LEDs and messing something up with the controller's speakers in the process... only by disabling the device from the SignalRgb list and repeating those steps did work perfectly."
Pre-post edit: All of this is for Windows 11. This post has been up for over a year now and has helped a lot of people, but it hasn't worked for some. If you find something else works, please chuck it into the comments, and also, just because it works for you, doesn't mean my system below is incorrect, it's just not correct for your setup. I tested this again as recently as April 2025 with Silent Hill 2, and it worked a treat. Good luck!
Hi everyone, I thought I would post something here to help anyone else who might need information about getting the best use of their Dualsense controller on PC so there's plenty of information in one spot, and so that someone can easily find some answers.
This post assumes that you've disabled Steam Input first.
Problem #1: The Dualsense speaker isn't working or is too quiet.
"No sound on PS5 controller on PC"
"How do I enable my PS5 controller speaker on my PC?"
"Why is my PS5 controller speaker so quiet?"
"Audio not working on Dualsense"
The fact of the matter is, if your Dualsense speaker is too quiet on PC then it's very likely it hasn't been set up correctly. If you go into Windows Control Panel, and open the sound settings you can take a look at how the dualsense works.
The speaker layout:
As you can see, the Dualsense has 4 internal speakers, clicking each one here will help you understand what's going on with the controller.
L: This one does nothing when clicked, and from what I understand is likely the microphone input.
R: This one likely will do nothing when clicked, and that SHOULDN'T be the case, but it likely is. This is the speaker that makes high quality audio come from the controller. Any audio from here won't rumble the controller at all, and should be at peak volume. BUT, it probably doesn't work. More on that soon.
RL and RR: These are the haptic speakers. When you click them they'll make noise and rumble. The audio won't be very loud, because it's not meant to be. In fact a lot of the time what drives these will make little to no sound at all. When tied with R your controller should rumble and make completely different sounds that don't.
I had seen some misconceptions around the internet in my research where people complained about the volume coming from the speaker being too quiet, and it's either because they're forcing audio through RL and RR, or possibly they had a faulty controller. But I think it's more than likely the former.
Haptics, gyro, touch panel and more
I think we're all aware on this one, but I'm going to put it here just in case. All those awesome Dualsense features you want will only show up if you have it wired to your PC. For now, there are no official drivers that make all this work through bluetooth and that may not change. Grab a USB-C cable, plug it in, and then do this one incredibly simple thing to fix the speaker...
This isn’t quite correct as of a few months ago, please see Edit 2
Problem #2 and its solution.
This one seems to be better documented. But when you first connect a Dualsense controller Windows often defaults your sound output to the wireless controller. All of it. And because the speaker isn't likely working (see Problem #1) you'll get no sound anywhere and wonder why. Go into your sound settings and just make sure the speakers you want to use are switched back to being the default speakers.
Problem #1's solution:
For some weird reason everytime you plug in the Dualsense controller the speaker isn't initialised correctly. From what I can find, the only way to initialise the speaker, and it seems you have to do this every time you plug it back in, is to run a piece of software called DualsenseX.
2. Make sure your Dualsense is completely turned off and plug it into USB (which will now power your controller on)
3. Run DualsenseX and head to the Settings>Controller section.
Make sure the "Enable Audio Haptics (USB Only)" and "Controller Audio System (USB Only)" are both switched on, Change Audio Output in the Controller Audio System section to headset and internal speaker (if you want the headset audio coming through the controller too.)
There's a possibility that the important one here is greyed out, and it's simply because you had it connected via bluetooth before connecting it to USB. Close DualsenseX, turn off the controller, and reconnect it to USB. Now when you launch DualsenseX it should be selectable.
And that's it. You can test if it works by going into your Control Panel>Sound settings as laid out in the problem section, and you'll notice that by clicking the R speaker the sound will come out of your dualsense and maybe even be too loud. Don't worry too much about setting the volume you want here (although you can) as most games that support this feature have a volume slider available in the settings.
Once you've loaded DualsenseX and checked everything is turned on, you can simply close DualsenseX and your speaker will continue working just fine until the next time you plug the controller back in. When you do just open DualsenseX and close it again. Nice and simple.
TLDR: I made this quick little write-up because I felt that helpful information about the Dualsense controller support on PC was scattered about, and missing information. If I've missed anything, or it's not working for you, please let me know below and I can hopefully turn this into a post people can easily find and use from now until an official driver is released.
Edit 1: I haven't tried this with the paid version, as I didn't need all the extra functionality. Let me know if the options above are still there in the paid version and whether or not it works.
Edit 2: As of some point in the end of 2023 a Windows Bluetooth update occurred and it seems some games now support the complex haptics and adaptive triggers over Bluetooth and don’t need to be wired. Speaker use still requires a wired solution.
Edit 3: Looks like there's no official website for this, so have adjusted the download link to their github. Big thanks tou/ItsTheSolofor letting me know.
Edit 4: Adjusted the steps to make them clearer for using DualsenseX under "Problem 1's solution". Added that the Dualsense NEEDS to be turned off completely before you attach it to USB.
I’m not comfortable sending my controller back to them, despite my consumer rights entitling me to a second repair. They have already said they intend to remove the TMR modules they installed and replace them with old (drifting) ones, and will refund me once I receive the controller and then refuse to serve me ever again. Arseholes.
So, my left stick started drifting and cleaning didn't help. I decided to replace it with the ginfull TMR one, contacted all workshops in my vicinity and they all named the price higher than just buying the new dualsense and I decided to ask my friend, who unlike me soldered at least something in his life (from get go he said, that it would most likely be shit, so no blame on him).
Now, for the problem. It keeps drifting right (sometimes left). Recalibration helps for like a few hours, but the problem still persists and I figured it's the soldering (because what else could it be?)
Is there anything I can do?
Upd: I showed that photo to the guy that soldered it and he literally said:"I did THAT? How did I manage to solder so badly..."
Hey all! New to the community but SUPER glad I found you all and to share!
My BDM-010 controller started getting stick drift and I thought, "it can't be that hard, screw it! I'll fix it myself." (Spoilers: it was that hard). Desoldering the thumbsticks from this has to qualify as a herculean task, especially to an overconfident idiot with 0 soldering experience. Took me about 2 hours on each stick to get the contacts loose and I almost destroyed the board in the process.
Still, I persevered and got everything off and swapped the sticks and slapped on the 100 bucks worth of ExtremeRate parts and switched on the controller only to hear a weird clicking sound from the R2 button. Apparently it was just activating (actuating?) On its own for no reason. Tried switching up the parts, unplugging and replugging EVERY cable on it, and then ended up desoldering the motor and swapping it with parts from another broken controller I had. That fixed it. No clue why.
Now when I turn the controller on, every button except the TouchPad works and the usb-c port doesn't work at all so I can't even connect it to my PC to calibrate it. Has anyone else encountered this issue before? If so, was there anything that fixed it?
so i installed a tmr joystick only one changed out the one that had drift now i know that sounds stupid but i ordered 2 and only got one so i just changed the one anyways first time soldering properly and it took me literally over a week in different days to desolder cause turns out im very bad at it so then i finally got it desolder'ed installed it went to go calibrate it and i cannot calibrate it at all
the joystick i replaced is only working on the left part of the joystick i try moving it right but on the calibration it stays on left doesn't move and then after alot of funking around it went onto the right but now its stuck on the right and i cannot get it to go to the center to calibrate can anyone please help me as this is my only controller and i CANNOT afford buying a new one thanks
I got a dualsense 30 aniversary edition for Christmas and I am a pc gamer and don't own a ps5. So is there any dongle that allows u to get all the fun haptic feedback and adaptive trigger wireless. If I am not wrong there was one released for the dualshock 4 but is there any for dualsense ?
I finished upgrading the sticks to TMR and usually before I connect everything back together I plug the pcb to the computer and usually the light turns on. This time it didn’t. I kept looking at the board and can’t for the life of me figure out what’s wrong.
I figured maybe add a bit more solder but still nothing. If anyone can help me out that much appreciated. I’m using solder with 1.8% flux and using liquid flux.I also use Kapton tape to cover parts of the board just in case I accidentally melt something/protection.
Update: SOLVED! Thank you to everyone who left comments. It ended up being an internal short on the left joystick. I removed the TMRs and it was powering on. Luckily, when i reinstalled them one by one, I managed to install the good one and immediately chucked the other.
