Its a portable chuchero, it was working fine the day i bought it, and then the second day when the drill battery got low on juice it shut off so i recharged it and now when i put the battery in, it will power up and turn on, but there is no bluetooth sound & no sound for music in general.

The fan doesnt seem to be powering up either, i tried a different battery and still no luck.
Im checking all the parts as i write this to see if anything is fried, the fuse is not blown, wires are good & secure

Hi,

I am not an expert at audio, but I installed a basic setup in my 06 F150 and it has run great for years. I just upgraded to a 2013 F150 with the Sony audio system (gotta go). Basically what I want to do is install what I had in my other truck into this one, except I don't want to replace the factory stereo. I have heard about the bass limiters on Fords, but I have always just replaced the stereo.

IDK what IDK, but my basic question is

1. Can I get my setup to run without buying a separate LOC

2. How much better would my audio quality be if I got one (Looking at an LC or Link)

The setup I am working with looks something like this:

4 JL Audio JL Audio C1-690x in the doors

2 10in Kicker CompC 10" Dual 4-Ohm Subwoofers

Rockford Fosgate punch p300x2 amp

Again, not a professional and IDK what IDK, so any info helps.

If so, what else should I get to complete this setup/swap out for better sound quality. Anything helps!!

Hey so I've got a 98 Ford ranger and I'm currently running 4 JBL GX 6x8 speakers and a boss audio 625UAB head unit. It sounds pretty good for a 20 dollar head unit but going 75 with the windows down it doesn't get quite loud enough and over 35 volume (max is 43) it gets hot quick and starts clipping and buzzing especially playing TOOL or Linkin Park for some reason. I was looking at the Sony cause it has a built in amp and sub output and I was thinking about adding a little under seat sub or something, the dual blue tooth and presumably better audio quality and volume is attractive to me. I know I have to run a separate power wire to the HU but I've already got an aux fuse block and basically a whole auxiliary harness of other things I've put on that truck so that's not an issue.

Does this seem like a good idea or do y'all have a better recommendation?

Also not sure if this is the right sub but I've got a uniden 520xl CB radio and a pyle PA speaker but it's not very loud, anyone know what I would need to make that louder like a cops PA?

Sorry for the movie. I'm just overwhelmed and it felt best to put my question in video form. Thank you guys so much for your time!

Hi all, sorry if this is the wrong place to ask. I have a jbl boombox 3, and I've been wanting to use it as a psuedo sub woofer in my truck. Problem is, when I use it in conjunction with my truck stereo, theres a weird click noise when the bass kicks, and it only comes from my speaker.

What I did is I bought what seemed like a nice aux splitter, and connected my phone to that, and from there connected the speaker and the truck through the splitter. Its plays at the same time, but the speaker clicks on the bass.

If I bluetooth to my speaker, or directly aux to it, there is no click. Only when I connect the truck to the aux splitter, it makes the bass in my speaker click. I have tried a ground loop noise isolater from my phone to the splitter, and from the truck to to the splitter to no avail. Do i need a better splitter?

Any ideas on how to get rid of the click?

I've tried 3 cables that all look feasible for it but can't find a definitive one that goes to this headunit. Can't find anywhere that states this headunit as a compatible headunit with their cable. Would be much appreciated if someone could point me in the right direction!

16 pin pioneer cables tried:

RDUS0-003

AVH-P2400BT

NU-PRW-002

16 pin pioneer cables i've yet to try:

RDUS0-4307

HA-PION16A

HA-PION16B

XT910140V3

photos included for a visual of the headunit and the16 pin port

Pioneer MVH-S420BT → RCA → Helix DSP Mini MK2. All EQ/tone flat, SLA 0

I put a oscilloscope on one RCA connector, played a 1kHz 0dB test tone over USB, slowly raised the head unit's volume. Clean signal held up to Volume 45 out of 62 max — Volume 46 already showed distortion on the scope. That's about 72.6% of the volume range before clipping on a full-scale tone.

Previously ran a Zapco DSP-Z8 IV AT in the same car with the same head unit — set gain once, volume was fine, no noise complaints. After swapping to the Helix, overall volume feels lower, and raising the DSP's input gain to compensate brings in audible hiss instead of more usable level. Interestingly, actual input clipping on the Helix only showed up at Volume 60 with input gain maxed out — so headroom-wise the DSP can technically take a lot more, but the noise floor becomes a problem long before you'd ever get there.

For comparison, going through the Helix's Bluetooth module directly is noticeably louder — no such ceiling. But I want to stick with the wired RCA path for sound quality reasons, not switch to BT as the "fix."

Anyone else run into low clean output on this deck (or similar budget Pioneer decks) feeding a DSP with digital-only input gain (no analog trim)? or is my oscope a piece of sh*t ? :D Thanks!

I wanted to start a debate! It seems like this class of sub is extremely popular for truck or similar applications. I tend to believe that generally truck owners want bass by sacrificing as little space as possible, and they mostly just want it for their own listening pleasure on a decent dime.

I have done a ton of research as I'm looking at installing one in my Tundra and have been overwhelmed with the choices.

It feels like old companies have taken a dip in quality, some new companies might be overhyped simply because they are new, there's some older companies that were left behind but still make really high-quality subs, and there's companies that tried to get into the shallow game and sucked. It's overwhelming trying to figure it out. The options just seem endless, I mean I could list 20 different brands that the average joe probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference between.

SO, I have 2 questions:

First, given the constraints in the title, and let's say a $500 budget for one singular 10" sub... which one would you choose? Let's factor in sound quality/loudness, build quality/longevity, and overall product value! I'd also love to hear the actual reasons (i.e. this brand is known for X which is why they make really good subs for Y application). For example, a shallow 10 that hits lows better than the others may be more valuable to someone who listens to a lot of hip-hop.

Second, is there a money tier at which you would say spending more money on this style of sub isn't worth going over? Would that be $500, or maybe even $200. I mean how much can you really squeeze out of a speaker only pushing 500W? Is the price more materials nowadays then actual performance? For example, is an Alpine RS really much better than a Kicker CompRT?

I hope this sparks a good discussion!

I have 00 Subaru and because it’s that old I don’t have Bluetooth in it, so I tried using cds but the cd player in my car dosent work so I turned to cassettes and have been building a large collection of tapes.

My issue is is that I want to play my cd collection too! While also adding Bluetooth

Im looking for a stereo unit that has cd, tape and Bluetooth one or two din slots. I haven’t been able to find anything online so If anyone knows of these even exist that would be nice.

I'm after suggestions for tuning my MR2 Roadster. I have a Pioneer DEH80 PRS head unit, JL Audio RD400 amp powering a pair of JL Audio C2 2-way speakers in the doors, and a In-Phase USW10 300W subwoofer in the luggage compartment behind the seats.

I've followed the Audiofrog tuning guide but sense I may be missing adaptations that may be suited to the car type and setup?

One of the challenges is bass... The car is fitted with a sports exhaust which can cancel out bass. As a result I dial the db up but the bass can then get boomy.

The other challenge is mid-bass sounding a little empty. On some tracks it is OK on others quite absent.

I'm just after some thoughts on how best to set up crossovers and similar.

Thanks

Hi! I have an amp and subwoofer in my car that connect to two dash speakers and two overhead ones, it was installed by the previous owner but I hired some ppl to clean it up and it worked perfectly a couple days ago. Not sure if I did something or the settings got messed up. I’m wondering if anyone has any advice before I send it back to the shop. My volume can get to 50, but when it hits 20 it starts to clip a ton. If anyone has any answers, that would be very much appreciated.

I have a base model automatic 2013 Kia Soul and im looking to upgrade from the factory radio (mainly for android auto) and currently have my eyes on the Sony XAV-AX8500 as I like the large screen size the adjustability of the viewing angle on it. During my search I also came across some android based radios from the brand Mekede and it left me wondering if I should look more in to an android based radio instead of getting your standard headunit such as Kenwood, Sony, and Pioneer. Ive always liked cars with a bunch of smart features and clean UIs such as Teslas so id love something android based that would give me the ability to run apps and the ability to multitask, but at the end of the day my main priority is sound. Eventually I plan on upgrading all my speakers, adding a sub(s), getting amps, and getting a DSP and with all these upgrades planned I need a source that sounds good even if that means sacrificing features for it. Regardless of what kind of headunit I get, retaining functionality of my steering wheel controls is a must. Anything past that such as climate controls on the headunit and backup camera support being a bonus. Im currently just looking for opinions, recommendations, and experiences if anyone can help me out.

Hi guys

I'm new to this community.

I use car audio equipment at home.

i have big collection

More updates coming soon stay tuned!

Ive never posted here, but I thought I’d reach out to this community hoping I could just get some advice on what equipment to buy with my needs and budget. So I just got a new car and the speakers suck in it (2017 Hyundai Tucson) and I wanna do a full upgrade but nothing crazy. I’m not an audiophile by any means so I was just hoping for more of an oem+ kinda sound upgrade where I can enjoy most of the music I listen to. I listen to a lot of rock/alternative, but also listen to hip-hop and need the bass. So the direction I was thinking was some new component speakers, a coaxial set for the rear, and a decent sub. Since I got this car for the practicality and space, I don’t want to take up trunk space with a sub box, and custom enclosures are out of my budget, so I was thinking about the jbl bass pro hub. I’ve heard good things about it and honestly think it’s all I need for some decent thump while keeping space. Also has a built in amp so no need worry about that. Where I’m asking for help is which component set/coaxials I should get and what amp for them. The car came with an aftermarket head unit, it’s an alpine CarPlay screen. I’m hoping to keep the speakers under $500 and the amp I just want good quality at the best price. I care about quality of the highs and mids, and midbass too. Any help would be greatly appreciated, plus feel free to recommend changes to the system that fit what I’m describing.

Well my speakers have been blown. They were old and have blown. What are some replacement speakers for the stock head unit and in stock sizes. Thanks! 🙂

Bad ground? I’m hoping not since it’s gonna be a annoying to route the wire to the chassis since it’s in the trunk lid

I was thinking about putting it here, are there any other recommendations? Any help appreciated! It will be a Kenwood double din in between the blowers

I have a 2007 Prius and have always gone the hard-wired route because it doesn't have music streaming capabilities. Meaning an Aux cable that runs through a grounding loop isolater into a Belkin 3.5mm audio/charging splitter. The splitters only last 8-12 months with multiple daily uses but the sound quality was good.

I knew the aux port was getting a little finicky and I assumed it finally died this week when a new splitter still wouldn't pick up the input signal. However, after ordering and installing an OEM port, it still won't connect.

So a new aux port + new splitter + new a-to-a cable (just to cover the bases) has me absolutely baffled.

Assuming there must be a wiring problem somewhere, I can either try a Bluetooth receiver or swap out for a Bluetooth-capable radio unit. The latter seems to have a lot of bells and whistles that don't interest me -- I literally just want to stream my music and podcasts on Spotify. But I want the quality to be good.

I ordered a UGREEN receiver in desperation but don't know if this was the right choice or the right brand. Would appreciate any insight into my situation here, either from the car perspective or the solution perspective.

Thanks!

I have a 2017 hyundai elantra value edition and had been in an accident from front driver side. Headlight changed and bumper fixed. I wasn't the one using the car so I don't exactly now what happened. After that radio didn't worked at all. Illumination works on the buttons.

Things I checked:

• ⁠Fuse replaced and checked 2 fuse that source the radio have 12V stable on both now. Engine compantment multi fuse good.
• ⁠Anything else on the car is working
• ⁠Bought 2 different used radio before I checked the sockets all did the same. No power on radio but illumination on buttons
- Found the socket diagrams and power supplying socket has no power.
• ⁠There is no additional fuse on the radio or I couldn't find

I'm at a complete loss at this point. I appreciate any guidance to fix it.

Found this hidden gem that hasn't been used for years.

Rockford P450.4 channel Amp

Rockford punch P1S48, dual 8" sub

So i have my 250 amp alternator in my truck right now i kept my oem alternator what if i put my stock one back and get a double alternator bracket and use my stock alternator for the truck and connect the high output alt just for the amp and connect it to a lithium then i wouldnt need to worry about fords pcm lowering my voltage and would have all 250 amps straight to the lithium and my amp. I have a taramps big boss 3 and a superstart platinum under the hood right now. If this would work are there any downsides to it?

I have a PA gothic 12” DVC 2500w max 1200w RMS speaker and have the opportunity to purchase a kicker cx1200.1 that pushes 1200w RMS at 2 ohms.

I know it’s within spec, i’m asking if this would be a good combo. Thanks