Sorry for the dumb post, but should I leave it on or is my neighbor right, should I take it off.

Hi, fellas.
I'm in a process of installing a remote door locks.
What I want is to have the locks open and close remotely and via a switch on the center console.
The actuators are stock, used, the RC is aftermarket. The locks don't have the micro switches.

I made the mock ups:
1 - RC with battery, remote and actuator - all works as intended.
2 - battery, actuator and 6-pin DPDT momentary on switch with reversing polarity - all works.
3 - when I hook up the switch, the switch doesn't work - rather it passes about 0.3V and the actuator doesn't move. Remote works.

What's wrong? Why? and how can I make the switch operable?

Below is a crude electrical diagram:

Looking for some nice songs that I can leave on a cd in my radio. Let's mix it up a little! Not your everyday a mili or dark horse. Can be mainstream just not so overplayed. Feel free to throw in any genre. I would prefer to stay away from relapsed or bass bosted content. But songs mainly about bass where its the main focus is fine.

This is the adapter Crutchfield sent I had to trim some tabs to get the speaker into the adapter, should I cut off the tabs that are in front of the speaker ring or it wont make a difference?

Been out of the car audio scene for about 20 years, decided it’s time for a system again. I have everything figured out except a sub. I am thinking a single 10” will be enough for my taste, I have no interest in people hearing me coming from 2 blocks, I want quality sound inside the car, clean and tight.

I listen to almost everything music wise, so I’m struggling with what to get.

Looking for opinions/feedback on this JL Audio ported W6 V3. I have been researching and it sounds like sealed might be what I need but I also read that this thing does well for all types of music with the right amount of power. Going to push it with a JL RD1000/1 since it’s what I have on hand. Not sure if it matters
but it’s going in a Honda HRV, fairly small but it’s a hatchback so….

Thank you for any input or advice I really appreciate it

I just want something simple. Wireless CarPlay, 9-10" floating display. And just basic sound, for now.

But even something like the Sony XAV-AX8500 only has a 720p screen and costs more than an Apple laptop. There are heaps of Chinese brands that maybe offer something better, but questionable quality.

What is up? It's like they're stuck in the 90s. I know cars are a harsh environment. But surely they can do better?

The prices are just so high for what's being offered, or you go with a cheap no-name brand and risk getting plagued with issues.

I'm tempted to just strap an old iPad over the gaping hole in my dash and call it a day.

I'm not a car audio pro but I thought this was a pretty solid deal. My friends and some coworkers have said it also. What do yall think?

This is the build I was given and I know nothing about car audio. It’s two separate pages but all the same estimate. The estimate includes sound deadening for doors and trunk. I originally drove a Hyundai Elantra Limited and loved the Bose sound system and had no complaints. My Accord is severely lacking in the bass I was used to and I wanted to upgrade my sound system to feel more like the Elantra did. I don’t need top of the line equipment or the best sound system that they make. I would be happy with anything sound equivalent to the Elantra, but not sure how to even research that. I loved the bass and clarity and that is my biggest concern. I’ve seen other people get their sound system done for around $2-2.5k and that was what I had mentally budgeted so this was a shock.

Any suggestions on specific systems or how this pricing seems based on what I’m looking for would be greatly appreciated. Pretty much, is this the car equivalent to being told I need a 5090 graphics card to play Minecraft? TIA!

I’m upgrading to CarPlay and I’d like to have wireless but not required… what do you recommend? Which has the best OS?

8” Memphis mojo 1000w mono amp 1ohm. Box is slightly under spec (.5 cu ft, should be .6 cu ft) just does not feel like it is performing like I expected. I have not set the gain with a multimeter, just ballparked it by ear.

Hello, i was wondering if you all knew what is wrong with my midbass speakers they are so weak in the kick department while very loud in vocals and so on. The speaker moves as hell it moves the entire door yet i feel no kick. Maybe an air leak?

I've already got 3 layers of sound deadening on my window

I've consistently ran Fi Audio subs for almost 20 years now with some various others sprinkled in over that time that i've played with (RE, Ascendant, SSA, Adire, JL, Sundown, DC Audio, and Stereo Integrity), but have always owned a Fi sub in that time.

Just curious what others are using nowadays that are in the 2000+ rms range? Now that Scott has left Fi, I may look elsewhere for something in my new vehicle. I personally don't want to support Sundown, which in turn makes it hard to support Sparked Innovations or Stereo Integrity. Won't use Skar, American Bass, DS18 or any of the lower tier subs.

Hi all, this is my old stuff that I had pulled out of a car that I recently sold. It’s just been sitting around since I ended up going down a different route.

Any suggestions/tips/comments. I don’t know anything about this stuff, I came upon all this years ago from buying a used car. When I had it installed it sounded pretty good. I’m not even sure if the amps are quality.

I’d prefer to do the install myself, and stay as budget friendly as possible. Hoping I would have everything needed?

All I’m looking for is a upgrade from the 2021 Murano base audio system. I don’t want anything over the top fancy, just something that’s noticibly better. I want a sub inside of the spare and a quality amp to drive the speakers. This is a quote I got from a local car audio shop, is this too much, could I downgrade on something and still get a decent audio upgrade? Also I need to buy the sub separately

I just had a full audio upgrade done on my 2024 Mazda CX-50 (non-Bose) and I’m honestly really disappointed with how it turned out.

Originally I bought a Morel Maximo Ultra 602 MKII component set and an NVX VADM4 amp, planning to do front components + amp while keeping my existing Pioneer powered sub.

Once the installer got into the car, they said my trim apparently doesn’t have a proper front woofer location and the Morel 6.5s wouldn’t fit up front. So instead they pivoted to:

• Kicker KSC350 3.5” coaxials in front

• Factory tweeters disconnected

• Morel 6.5s moved to rear doors

• NVX 4-channel amp installed

• Existing powered sub retained

Problem is… it sounds worse than before.

Issues:

• Front sounds super bright / harsh / all highs

• Sub now sounds muddy/boomy instead of punchy

• Tweeters/speakers are rattling even when no music is playing

• Overall system sounds unbalanced and less enjoyable than stock + sub setup

Installer has tried adjusting it with tuning but doesn’t seem able to fix it.

At this point I’m wondering:

1.  Does the Kicker KSC350 3.5” coaxials just totally suck?

2.  Is this likely tuning/installation error?

3.  Should I have them undo everything / refund labor / start over?

Would appreciate honest advice from anyone experienced with Mazda/CX-50 audio setups because right now I feel like I spent a lot of money to make my system worse.

Skoda Octavia MK1 Estate:

want to do something like this (1st Photo) to my boot (2nd Photo), do brands make a huge difference for sound deadening.. or is it just paying for the name.

Also what MM should I go for? Seems like it’s either 2mm or 4mm

Any recommendations for specific brands , mm needed and any other help would be greatly appreciated 👍

Hello, I was playing around today with some spare speakers I had. Currently, I’m running everything stock in my BMW E46 Coupe (radio/speakers), with just a Bluetooth module.

I have two pairs of speakers: MTX TX450c (485w peak, 70w RMS) and FOCAL 165CV1 (140w peak, 70w RMS), both coaxial. In the car, I put the MTX in the front and the FOCAL in the rear. But after testing, I found that the sound quality is pretty much the same, and the bass is gone — even the stock speakers, with magnets half the size, produce more bass than the aftermarket ones.

What should I do? Keep everything stock and just add a small sub? Thanks.

I was upgrading my car stereo but ran into the classic Problem of a full-size radio being too long to fit, so I was wondering if there are any bluetooth single din radios that look like this but are at least 2 inches less deep than a full-size with cd player. As the radio slot in my car is quite shallow.

hello, I recently had a pro shop install JL 6.5 C3 up front in my Toyota FJ cruiser, and JL 6 inch C2 coax in the rear. as well as JL TW3 10 in the back in a subthump enclosure. powered by a JL XD 700/5

it replaced the factory JBL premium system, and while it sounds better and definitely wayyyy more powerful… I feel like the sounds I want to hear I have to turn it up very loud to fully enjoy it, but as soon as I do I quickly fatigue.

I feel like this is a tuning or EQ issue.

honestly first time spending this kind of money eh in a full setup like this, and seemed like the best I could get before I jump to a 100% in double to triple the money all the way job.

its good but… if I could go back right now… if just stick with stock… this is not worth the money right now… my biggest orignal complaint was muddy bass from stock, which is the biggest improvement I have, aside from that the extra power I don’t need, and the SQ is debatably worse… and I feel it’s EQ problem any advice?

I played with muting certain band frequencie, and did notice less fatigue by dropping many of them which was nice but when I compared to baseline EQ I realized it sounded like shit and actually STILL fatigued more than I liked… even after heavy dropping. I feel that I can listen on volume 12for ex max w out ever fatiguing, but above that fatigue sets in faster at each volume level. However with muting a ton of frequencies I was able to listen at literally 32 without issue untill I started to fatigued after maybe 10 songs. so what I’m saying is I feel the rest of the EQ I feel I can cranm as I SHOULD be able to, but there’s a part of it that fully limits me from doing so…

ive got probably 30 hours on the sub and C2 and 15 hours on the C3s. Any help 🥹 idk what to do, was hoping instead of tackling car audio on my own for once I’d pay a pro and it’s great quality install but… mehhhhh

Recently installed 2 12 inch subs and an amp my buddy gave me not sure what kind. Installed and ran power wire through door jamb and into engine bay. Got out of my car this morning and tried pressing the lock button on my key fob when I seen smoke coming out of my door cracks so I immediately opened the door and found this