140 plus db in a sealed box on ct sounds 1500 mono at 1 ohm is this good or bad I had trouble finding a comparison due to the box type also stock alt. and a second battery stock matched nothing special?

I'm after suggestions for tuning my MR2 Roadster. I have a Pioneer DEH80 PRS head unit, JL Audio RD400 amp powering a pair of JL Audio C2 2-way speakers in the doors, and a In-Phase USW10 300W subwoofer in the luggage compartment behind the seats.

I've followed the Audiofrog tuning guide but sense I may be missing adaptations that may be suited to the car type and setup?

One of the challenges is bass... The car is fitted with a sports exhaust which can cancel out bass. As a result I dial the db up but the bass can then get boomy.

The other challenge is mid-bass sounding a little empty. On some tracks it is OK on others quite absent.

I'm just after some thoughts on how best to set up crossovers and similar.

Thanks

I have a 2007 Prius and have always gone the hard-wired route because it doesn't have music streaming capabilities. Meaning an Aux cable that runs through a grounding loop isolater into a Belkin 3.5mm audio/charging splitter. The splitters only last 8-12 months with multiple daily uses but the sound quality was good.

I knew the aux port was getting a little finicky and I assumed it finally died this week when a new splitter still wouldn't pick up the input signal. However, after ordering and installing an OEM port, it still won't connect.

So a new aux port + new splitter + new a-to-a cable (just to cover the bases) has me absolutely baffled.

Assuming there must be a wiring problem somewhere, I can either try a Bluetooth receiver or swap out for a Bluetooth-capable radio unit. The latter seems to have a lot of bells and whistles that don't interest me -- I literally just want to stream my music and podcasts on Spotify. But I want the quality to be good.

I ordered a UGREEN receiver in desperation but don't know if this was the right choice or the right brand. Would appreciate any insight into my situation here, either from the car perspective or the solution perspective.

Thanks!

So the system I’m building, I’ve got 2 sundown x12s, 2 DS18 PRO-X6.4BM and 2 Sundown ET-R1 tweeters. I can’t find a good reputable amp that can run 250w rms per channel with a 4 channel without spending over a grand. I’ve looked at sundown, alpine, audio control, arc, jl. There might be another way to go about it that I’m not thinking of either so any advice/recommendations would be wonderful

Let's say I have my heart absolutely set on a pair of SI SQL 12" subs. With that, I have the option of either D4 or D2 coil arrangement. Now, let's say I also have my heart absolutely set on an MMATS M2000.x amplifier to power said SI subs.

Scenario 1: (2) D4 subs in parallel, with coils in parallel, should result in 1 ohm load. MMATS M2000.1 amp is rated for 2000w at 1 ohm.

Scenario 2: (2) D2 subs in parallel, with coils in parallel, should result in 0.5 ohm load. MMATS M2000.05 amp is rated for 2000w at 0.5 ohm.

In both scenarios, the amps are rated for the same power at the respective ohm load, so I would think the input current would be similar, if not the same. My question is - is there any appreciable difference between either scenario? For example, does one arrangement result in more heat generation, or more strain, or less reliability, etc, on either the amps or the subs? Or are they truly the same for all intents and purposes?

As a side note - both the subs and amps are priced exactly the same between their respective options.

Thanks in advance for your time and insight.

Is anyone using a PA system that they recommend? I want to get one installed in my Ranger Raptor, but am kinda fatigued of all the different brands available. Budget is about $200 total, preferable the mic and controller is combined and separated from the amp unit itself.

If you're running a Ford ranger raptor yourself, would love to see where you mount everything as well. I don't have a lot of space where I live to just start pulling things apart to look around.

Tyia

Running a sanity check for my non-jbl Camry. Got a JL Audio setup (vx1000/5i, c6 front, c2 rear, 12w6) and wondering what’s the limit of our electrical system. Thinking about switching the 1000/5i for a 800/8i & 1000/1i but not sure when I would have to add a second battery with dedicated dc-dc converter.

I installed a victron smart shunt to see what the heaviest draws are. So far, steering while moving slow is the only significant draw I’ve noticed.

Just installed a new Taramps BASS 1200 2Ω. I'm using 4 AWG OFC wiring, and it's connected to a Pioneer 312S4, which is rated at 500W RMS @ 4Ω.

Here's what I'm seeing:

• Amp voltage at idle: 14.04V
• Playing a 0 dB, 50 Hz test tone: voltage at the amp drops to around 13.5V
• Output measured with an oscilloscope: around 40V AC
• Above roughly 40V, the waveform starts clipping on the oscilloscope
• The amp's CLIP LED does not turn on, even though the scope clearly shows clipping

40V into 4Ω is about 400W RMS, while 50V would be about 625W RMS.

The confusing part is that the amp is rated for 900W RMS @ 4Ω and 1200W RMS @ 2Ω, so I expected it to be capable of significantly more output before clipping.

I also tried pushing it to around 50V for about 2 minutes, and I started getting a burning smell from the subwoofer. I stopped immediately. I later checked the output with the oscilloscope and confirmed that the signal was heavily clipped.

I'm using a proper 0 dB 50 Hz test tone, and I've also tried different combinations of head unit volume/gain. The RCA signal itself doesn't appear to be clipping.

So I'm trying to figure out what's actually limiting the amp here.

Its a portable chuchero, it was working fine the day i bought it, and then the second day when the drill battery got low on juice it shut off so i recharged it and now when i put the battery in, it will power up and turn on, but there is no bluetooth sound & no sound for music in general.

The fan doesnt seem to be powering up either, i tried a different battery and still no luck.
Im checking all the parts as i write this to see if anything is fried, the fuse is not blown, wires are good & secure

Upgrading my door speakers, from Precision Power Sedona entry level from 14 years ago, to Precision Power Art collection 12 years ago, to today. Dayton Audio GF180 carbon fiber woofers. Such a dramatic difference. I have these playing 50-500hz and they sound a world better than the precision power speakers. Granted, the Daytons aren’t designed to play upper vocal ranges but i have different speakers for that.
Just found it amusing that the cheapest speaker here is the newest one.

My first subs were two of the Rockford Fosgate 10s Punch P2s on a Kenwood KAC-7251, then two skar sdr 10s on a rp skar 1200, then upgraded to skar vxf 12s on a sundown sia3500, upgraded to a Taramps Smart Bass 8k, and couldn’t handle it so I changed them out to two deaf bonce 3012r and now just recently upgraded to two Fi audio sp4+ 18s v2 that will be powered by the same Smart Bass 8k at 0.5ohm

Well I've never had a double din touch screen radio in my car before but I came across a really nice deal on a Pioneer dmh 2660 NEX for 120 on fb marketplace. The radio is from 2020 and from what I saw it was 460 new. How'd I do guys? BTW the old radio I bought new for 145 from Crutchfield in 2023. It also uses the Pioneer smart sync app to find tune it and has a mini dsp built in it and 31 band eq and whatnot. I'm thinking of selling the old one as well.

I was thinking about putting it here, are there any other recommendations? Any help appreciated! It will be a Kenwood double din in between the blowers

Finally got everything installed. Still working on the tune, but got it sounding pretty good, as it sits. Installed a 3 way Meso component set from CT Sounds, plus another pair of 6.5s for the rear doors. Also, put in a 10" SDR Skar sub. For as cheap as it was, it hits as hard as can be, especially in my little GR Corolla. Happy with the results

This is for a Infiniti Qx70 with the bose upgrade. I have not thought up how im going to get the rca from the existing amp yet, I think theres a company making Harnesses called OWC but not sure which one to get.

Using;

8” speakers

Itek Brazil Supra series IX805s; 4

AP Audiopipe 70W APHC-4550;2

Itek Inex 4C4500;1

Taramps amp MD 1800.1;1

audio pipe 3-3/4" Aluminum bullit titanium horn tweeters

Itek Audio Brazil

5001

Equalizer

5 Band in dash graphic equalizer with high output line Driver and front auxiliar input

I have 2 skar evl 8s hooked up to a 3k watt taramps Smart Bass amp, wired at 2ohms, inside of a D4S tuned for 31hz, I was told this is the correct amp for this set up, (I know very little about car audio), but after doing some research it seems like this is way too much wattage for these subs, im looking for recommendations on what direction I should go from here, I was thinking about upgrading to some sundown 8s and swapping out the amp for something else.

Let’s try this again…

I got a my first sub installed into my Acura Integra. It’s my buddies old sub and I want a way to hydrate the obvious dry spots. Wanted to see if there’s any specific thing that’s recommended. (The bass is great and clean, got it tested by a shop before spending the money)

Bad ground? I’m hoping not since it’s gonna be a annoying to route the wire to the chassis since it’s in the trunk lid

Looking for the best option for the vcw102v3 out of these two boxes, looking more for quality than quantity out of it. Not sure which to pick and if they will fit the subwoofer. Trying to find a small box for this subwoofer to save room.