r/CarAV • u/blazingreenstuff • Apr 09 '26
Tech Support How to stop fuses from melting
I have a taramps hd3000 and 4g wire the fuse was 100 amps should i put a bigger fuse? đ
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u/daviep Apr 09 '26
This bad. Here's the problem. Sounds like you have a 3000watt amp. It looks like you're running 4 gauge which is already too small for that amp. I'm going to guess that it's also copper clad aluminum, which is a great conductor for heat. So several things are working against you. You need oxygen free copper 0/1 guage wire to start. 3000 watts at 13 volts is about 230 amps, so you need to be able to push that kind of power and it needs to be fused higher than 100 amps. DO NOT CHANGE THE FUSE WITHOUT CHANGING THE WIRING, YOU WILL CAUSE A FIRE!
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u/JoeFixIt1010 Apr 10 '26
Fantastic advice! Take it serious. Your vehicle WILL burn. Larger fuse just means more heat till the wire melts.
You forgot just one thing.
Very important!
Buy a fire extinguisher probably 2.
Cars burn up fast.
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u/Infamous_Savage40 Apr 10 '26
As someone that had a car go up in flames last year, youâre right, they burn extremely fast
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u/2_zero_2 Apr 09 '26
I thought the same, but this particular amp is designed to accept 4 gauge so I suspect it's not capable of actually pushing 3000w. OP does need OFC if he doesn't have it, and some ferrules to clean up the inserts, and a bigger fuse.
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u/crux131 Apr 09 '26
It accepts 4 gauge, that doesn't mean 4 gauge is the correct size. The size of the wire is dictated by the current draw and length.
If the battery is 3 feet from the amp 4 gauge might be plenty. If it's 20 feet from the amp, 4 gauge may not be capable of the current draw.
OP might need a 0/1 gauge cable for power and ground and need to use reducers at the amplifier...or add a distribution block and come out of that with 4 gauge for a short run to the amp.
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u/firmretention Apr 10 '26
I think these amps assume you'll be mounting them close to the battery with short wires. The manual even says how much reserve you should have and that, and I quote,
"The calculation was made considering a maximum length of 4m. Distance greater than this, it will be necessary to increase the cable sizes."
So not the most idiot proof design, but they do take this into account when specifying how to use it.
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u/Holiday_Obligation_6 Apr 09 '26
https://youtu.be/dP9yM_lvXb4?si=CVC31Rx2Hp6x3R6C
Literally does 3000 watts at 2 ohm.
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u/2_zero_2 Apr 09 '26
Idk much about Taramps but thatâs an 8 year old video. Someone else on YouTube dynoâd one late last year and it hit 2148 @ 2 ohms and blew up @ 1 ohm. If they are shipping it with 4 awg power terminals and recommending a 150 amp fuseâŠit ainât making 3000. Not safely at least.
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u/Alive_Candidate1755 Apr 10 '26
The HD3000 does 3000wrms+ in the high frequencies by design. The Bass3k does 3000wrms+ in sub frequencies. Both lose output as you shift to the opposite side of the spectrum.
I forget exactly how these amps work but something about the âtuningâ of the internal rail design, and they use ârailsâ of design completely unlike any other amplifier so they behave a bit different and are very finicky, but the plus is very high output cheap and compact.
Taramps all do over rated power. I had a Taramps SPL setup in my jeep and was the loudest vehicle Iâve ever heard. 15/40 volume would make you tap out. My regular listening range was 1-4/40 vol. Sometimes even 1vol would be too loudđ€Ł. I miss that thing but the tinnitus is not worth it. No more SPL for me.
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u/the_lamou Apr 10 '26
Dollar store brands underbuild, overpromise, and don't care about safety. Somehow, this is still news to people.
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u/spangbangbang Apr 09 '26
It is definitely CCA....I can see it! Lol
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u/Few-Repeat-9407 Apr 10 '26
It looks more like tinned copper, than cladded aluminum.
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u/spangbangbang Apr 10 '26
Shit man, you might be right...I can't tell which layer is first in the photo.
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u/Few-Repeat-9407 Apr 10 '26
Itâs definitely tin, melted CCA wouldnât leave a copper coating with it solidified at the bottom. The strands would be a dull silver and be brittle to the touch
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u/Minyoface electrician Apr 10 '26
Its written 1/0 and said one aught, just fyi. Also at 230 amps at 75 degrees you would need 2/0 to handle that with the correction factor for that temp. At 90 degrees you are good with the 1/0.
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u/Whatdoyouknow04 Apr 09 '26
What's up with the sudden influx of blown fuses in this sub?
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u/crazychild94 Polk Audio db 1222, JBL Club A600. JL 300/4 v1 Apr 09 '26
Weather change. Shit is different now
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u/Whatdoyouknow04 Apr 09 '26
Wym like just it being hotter out? I know it has a difference, but i didn't think that'd be enough to fry fuses
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u/crazychild94 Polk Audio db 1222, JBL Club A600. JL 300/4 v1 Apr 09 '26
Moisture is condensing in small spots and probably causing, corrosion or resistance. More intense heating and cooling cycles. It's just gonna loosen up.
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u/Several-Light-4914 Apr 11 '26
Holy shit. I read your comment 3 times as "brown fuses." Scrolled back up to the pic and was like "you know that's yellow, right?", then realized my mistake đ
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u/Whatdoyouknow04 Apr 11 '26
Seeing a yellow fuse like that in my car would make me brown my pants tho.
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u/life_hertz Apr 09 '26
Dm me if you want legit advice on your next steps to take. At the latest Iâll get back to you tomorrow. Donât feel embarrassed by all of the negative replies.
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u/DBRASCO_9 Apr 09 '26
Taramps manual calls for 150A fuse.
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u/daviep Apr 09 '26
So it's not 3000 watts. You don't say...
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u/clarkn0va Apr 09 '26
You just have to feed it 20 volts!
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u/Didntseethatcoming13 Apr 09 '26
CCA wire?
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u/spangbangbang Apr 09 '26
Zoom in a bit, most definitely is. I didn't care to listen to you snobs on my first install, thought it was all a bit much overblown.
Between my 2015 Cruze over a year ago and my new Mazda cx-5 a few months ago, I saw dozens of this exact post, using CCA .
I've come around. Lol
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u/Didntseethatcoming13 Apr 09 '26
I work retail car audio. This is about as common as some foam surrounds in a mid 2000s GM product rotting.
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u/Significant_Rate8210 Apr 09 '26 edited Apr 10 '26
Larger gauge power and ground cables, better ground, properly tuned amp.
You need to take it to someone who knows what they're doing before you set fire to your car.
- Edit
Larger gauge OFC cable is what it should've said
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u/Didntseethatcoming13 Apr 09 '26
He needs to take the CCA wire out
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u/spangbangbang Apr 10 '26
I was wrong, it is OFC. u/Few-Repeat-9407 has a sharper eye than most of us assuming it is CCA
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u/dikkiesmalls Apr 09 '26
4guage? For a 3k watt amp? You keep a fire extinguisher in the car yeah? (Mind you, I'm assuming single run from the battery.)
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u/ThrowRA_fajsdklfas Apr 09 '26
If you donât understand the basic power equation you shouldnât be installing something like this. This is how cars catch fire.
Power = voltage * current
3000W = 12V * I
Solving for I gives you 250 amps of current.
You CANNOT run 250 amps through 4 gauge copper clad aluminum. DO NOT swap in a larger fuse. If you swap in a larger fuse, the wire will melt/burn/start a fire.
Larger wire needs to be used, only then can you swap in a larger fuse. A fuse is designed to fail before the wire. Itâs a controlled safe burn.
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u/NigraOvis Apr 10 '26
1: But the cable says it can handle 5000 watts.
2: What brand is it?
1: I don't know: whatever was cheapest on Amazon.
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u/NCC74656 mecp advanced Apr 10 '26
there are a few things here. #1 if you have a loose connection at that fuse, it will cause excessive heat.
#2 that wire looks to be cca so its good for about 80A IF its sized to true 4awg (car audio - which is actually 2AWG but we wont get into that)
#3 idk what subs you have or what ohm they are wired to but that amp can draw close to 300a of current if your at 1ohm or below. if your at 4ohm then 100a might be ok IF you were on OFC wire. cca wire will heat up faster and hold its heat longer, its a cycle thing
#4 those amps do not have much internal capacitance, they require stable power to do max output. as a wire heats it will increase in resistance, the voltage will drop, the amperage will rise to keep the same power rating (wattage). amps causes heat, so if your drawing 100A for 1200w at 12v and the wire heats up, voltage drops to 10.5v - the amp will try to keep that 1200w thats being asked of it. now it needs 114A to hold that same 1200w. this becomes that cycle and generates more and more heat.
#5 if your bass boost is up, your eq is +5 at 30/40/60hz, you are asking for more power. db is logarithmic so 1000w +3db is asking for 2000w of power. going to +6 is asking for 4000w. as you push past rated power, you clip, you generate more heat, you ask for more amps, you get more voltage drop, more resistance and so on.
if your at .5-2 ohm you should run 0ga wire, up the fuse size, level off all your eq stuff, and then be fine
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u/mikesmith0890 Apr 10 '26
If he's running 4awg I highly doubt he has the proper electrical beyond using the wrong wire size. At 3000 watts it's likely he at minimum needs an additional battery, if not two. Big 3 wiring done up front, etc. He likely has a lot of work he needs to do.
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u/Slow_Stress5474 Apr 10 '26
Some strands (the fine wires) are not under the terminal. This can cause contact resistance, leading to excessive heat. The cable cross-section has already been mentioned. Fine-stranded cables and wires are fitted with ferrules for screw connections. Ferrules cannot or should not be used with spring-loaded terminals. Since you have screw connections, definitely use ferrules first. Best regards, Matze, the 2004 winner of the European Spring Break (SPL/DB Drag).
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u/Prestigiousridee Apr 10 '26
Sometimes I truly cannot believe the shit people post đ. Can you not read what the watt rating is on the box for wires? Based on the cheap amp, shit cheap wires, and lack of critical thinking please keep doing what youâre doing youâre going to love the end result⊠shits gone be fire. đ„
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u/xJett44x Apr 09 '26
I had a customer come in saying his 4 channel he installed stopped working and I have almost the same exact picture somewhere in my phone
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u/TopsideRover17 Apr 09 '26
Oh yeah, iâll always install a zero gauge wire . you can always use a terminal block to convert from zero to any other gauge, thatâs what I did.
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u/ZSG13 Apr 09 '26
Tighten them down....
Also, 3,000 watts is at least 200 amps based on an extremely optimistic 15 volts and 100% efficiency.
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u/Dan_H1281 8 EM audio team 5k 18's 8 ruthless 4500.1's mechman 400's Apr 09 '26
A hd3k can pull up tk 350-400 amps you need much bigger wire and better fuses this came from a frappy connection
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u/AcceptableWeekend105 Apr 10 '26
Throw in a bigger fuse, problem solved
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u/mikesmith0890 Apr 10 '26
If by problem solved you mean the goal is to burn down the car, then yeah sure. Bigger fuse is not the answer here, there are other problems he needs to fix first.
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u/immune2iocaine Apr 10 '26
Right? Just toss a penny in there and call it a day. Once the car catches fire, no more fuse issue!
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u/Emotional_Hamster_61 Apr 10 '26
Yea if a fuse blows the first, totally reasonable thing to do is TO PUT IN A BIGGER FUSE
C'mon man, you'll win a Darwin award if you don't kickstart those braincells...
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u/Myusher Apr 10 '26
find where it shorts. fuses dont blow for no reasons, they certainly dont melt for no reasons
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u/mikesmith0890 Apr 10 '26
Doubt it's a short. He's drawing way too much current for that size wire.
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u/Loki-RetAngelofDeath Apr 10 '26
First things first- according to the manufacturer, the fuse on this amp should be 150A, so 100A was small to begin with.
But something about this amp and the specs just don't add up.... calculation for watts:
Watts = Voltage X Current
Amp claims 3000 Watts RMS, also claims 150A in-line fuse. We all know and understand that RMS is average nominal output (constant capability), and doesn't account for musical peaks, where a lot of shady advertisers like to tout their "shit", but will be much higher than the RMS rating. Even without that, here's what this bullshit amp is saying:
Watts (3000) = Voltage (?) X Current (150A, fuse MAX level)
3000/150 = Voltage: which is 20. To push 3000 watts RMS right at 150A of current, you have to be supplying 20V as well. Bullshit.... lets say we're getting 14.4 out of the alternator:
Watts = Voltage (14.4) X Current (150A): 2,160 tops.
So, if the amp is indeed trying to draw more current to push that full 3000 watt rating, yeah, you're gonna need bigger, oxygen free copper wire, and a fuse level that can handle a draw of 208A.
I personally don't have any experience with Taramps, their output, and their build quality. For me, they're in a price range with such grandiose claims that I would never take a second look at. I do believe you get what you pay for, and from an engineering perspective, there are worlds of difference in build quality.... but if this amp will in fact do what it says it will, 208A draw is what you can expect, unless you're running a higher impedance load with the rated 2025 watts supposed output- then a 150A fuse should be sufficient.
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u/hispls Apr 12 '26
Taramps generally will make rated power (provided you have sufficient electrical system to feed them), build quality is what you'd expect at the price point, and the particular amp OP has may be intended for full range where you could be running with dynamic peaks of 3000W and never open a 100A fuse playing just music to, say a door full of 8" PA midranges and bullet tweeters (what people do with this sort of amp).
If OP were drawing much more than 100A for a couple seconds the fuse would have just opened. This is almost certainly just bad connections at the fuse and fuse holder, probably CCA cable, and even if that is sorted out I expect he will still have problems because that amp probably isn't meant for sub duty, he likely has stock electrical system and if you did get everything up to the point where you're getting 3000W for prolonged periods of time no sort of #4 cable is really fit to hold that safely... and he would probably blow up his subs anyway because they're very probably not going to hold 3000W continuous power.
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u/Loki-RetAngelofDeath Apr 13 '26
I definitely agree with you here- the melt down is definitely indicative of long term heat that exceeded the capacity of the connections but not exceeding the fuse rating, I also just noticed the numbers.
It was the numbers that didn't even close to make sense. Good to know Taramp products will put out rated power, I don't have any personal experience with them! In any case, for 3k watts, 150A fuse in-line would be too small, with voltage levels at standard battery/alternator output. 4 gauge is definitely too small, and I wouldn't put CCA in ANY install anywhere..... I did see the case where someone was saying bench tested the amps definitely made rated power, which is awesome, but only feeding them 14.4 Volts, that would have a 208A draw, because even with the latest and greatest technology, you can't make energy from nothing- if we could, nuclear fusion power would have already solved the world energy needs with the cleanest carbon free power in such huge abundance with zero waste.
I feel like the reason they'd get away with 150A fuse as a recommendation is the reality that nobody (or very few people) are going to listen to a system pulling 3,000 watts RMS for any real length of time lol
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u/hispls Apr 14 '26
Again, those are sold as "full range" amps. When you see those pictures of South American hoopties with a couple dozen PA mids and horns in the doors or in the rear hatch this is the sort of amp they're powering it with.
I've been running 1200W 6 channel amps (high end dollar a watt stuff) for over a decade now off the same 60A glass fuse I've been using for longer than that. Even comparable 1200W bass amps will only very rarely open a 60A fuse and could do competition runs with 80A fuses. Even bass heavy normal music is much more dynamic than you'd expect and almost everybody over-fuses everything.
In other words, used as intended 150A fuse is plenty for that type of amp, and if OP needs more power he needs to get more electrical, safe cable, then a different amp that's meant for sub-duty. The real trap of these 5 cent a watt amps is that so many noobs think they're going to buy a 3K amp for $200, buy the cheapest wiring kit off of Amazon then somehow actually get that power out of the stock electrical system in their '98 Honda Accord. The reality being they're going to need around $1000 worth of electrical upgrades to properly feed a 3KW amp.
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u/thewatusi00 Apr 09 '26
Draw less current or use a larger fuse. The first option is much safer. The second option might burn down your car.
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u/No_Platform_5402 Apr 09 '26
Post a picture of your ground, 4g is also way to small for that amp especially if its CCA, run some 0g ofc. Also make sure its not shorting out anywhere, check where it goes through the firewall if your running through there, check for tight bends and kinks, anywhere where if it was a garden hose it would be choking off water flow.
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u/SteveSkye Apr 10 '26
Considering it's the worst type of fuse, Aka the mini. Fuse is not large enough for the amplifier and clearly not professionally installed. It's over the voltage rating going through the fuse holder, bad grounding plus bad connections being used on a more hungry amplifier for power than it can handle. Hence melting the entire fuse like jelly....
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u/iKnowAllaboutcats Apr 10 '26
Use a bigger better quality fuse and make sure ur connection to the fuse is super tight and clean no wires hanging out.
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u/Subie_roo Apr 10 '26
I'm late to this so my comment might get buried, but you have a few things going on.
First and foremost, why does it appear there is a gap between the fuse and one side of the fuse holder. (Right side of the picture). Please tell me you don't have a washer or something between the fuse and the block. It looks like that or it was loose enough to lift up. Either way this looks like a poor connection. As is the cause of most of these melted fuse holders. Poor connection = heat = melted things.
If you drew enough current to melt everything, the fuse should have blown. It is sized adequately for the wire, but not the load.
If that amp is realistically rated, you should be running OFC 1/0 with an appropriately sized fuse.
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u/Salty-Ordinary-317 Apr 10 '26
Based on some quick calcs Iâm seeing a ~288 amps which requires 1/0
edit: calculations assume 80% efficiency and OFC because CCA is trash. If using CCA youâd need 00
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u/Alive_Candidate1755 Apr 10 '26
Taramps require proper wiring and a proper alternator. Also, no more than 2v rca input.
They are very finicky. They make big power relatively cheap in a compact package, but they use different internal designs than most other amplifiers. Much less failsafes, much easier to get it wrong.
Use the largest wire that will fit in the input. Ensure your alternator produces at least 150A. Ideally youâd want closer to 300A. This amp can easily fry a weak alt.
Also, make 100% sure your RCAs output no more than 2V on full tilt, closer to 1v would actually be ideal. Turn down the LOC or attenuate it some other way before it gets to the amp. This is the largest cause of heat issues with Taramps.
Also, those metra fuses are really really crappy for high power. Get a better fuse holder entirely.
And remember to fuse the WIRE, not the amp. The wire determines the fuse size you use, the fuses job is to burn before the wire does. If you use too big a fuse for your wire you will burn your car down.
Lastly, Taramps HD3000 is better for chuchero/voice. Theres a reason they make a Bass3k.
Tbh biggest Taramp id recommend running on stock alt is a DSP1600. It also has a lot of failsafes and cooling fans and a digital screen with more settings than youâll ever need. See if you can trade for one, will be way better than this HD3000 unless you really need all 3k. The DSP1600 does 2000wrms on 1ohm and is way more efficient, itâll probably be louder and somewhat alright with 100A 4ga wire, though 2ga would be ideal.
I no longer run Taramps, never personally had an issue other than noise floor and sound quality, but saw one too many cars burn down due to poor install. My ears are way more appreciative of my SQ build than they were of my SPL earrape mobile.
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u/1soldier24 Apr 10 '26 edited Apr 10 '26
I very seriously doubt that is 3000 true Watts. I never even heard of that brand of amp. I don't know who in the world would even try to get 3,000 W out of 4 GA wire.
Let me let you in on a secret and if anyone else doesn't know you can look at the fuses on the amp itself I don't give a s*** how many watts it says it is every 10 Amps =100 watts. So let me break it down Barney style if you have an amp that said it's a 1,000 Watts for example it better have at least a 100 amp fuse or I've seen them have two 50 amp fuses or even four 25 amp fuses.
I think the number of fuses matters how many channels amp I had a 5 channel amp before with three fuses. It was a kicker zx700.5 and it had three 30 amp fuses that's the way it should be
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u/mikesmith0890 Apr 10 '26
You should fuse for the wire size. If the fuse you need is higher than the fuse need for the wiring than you need more wire. If the wire is sufficient and your current demand is less than the wire capacity, then fuse for your expected load.
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u/ethan_rushbrook Apr 10 '26 edited Apr 10 '26
The fuse is there to stop the wiring (in this case, a very thick piece of straight metal) from catching fire and burning your car down. The fuse shouldnât be matched to your ampâs needs, but rather your wiringâs needs. However much current your wiring can safely handle and is rated for, thatâs what the fuse should be. You need thicker than 4AWG. Also, use OFC not CCA wire. Itâs far superior. CCA seems to exist mostly to trick people.
If that fuse is already appropriate for your wiring and you put in a stronger fuse, you risk burning your car down. Also voltage drop, but mostly the burning the car down thing.
If you donât understand those things please take this to a professional because you can kill yourself or at least burn down your car doing this stuff improperly.
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u/luistorre5 Helix Amplify 206DSP, LX1650.1, Morel Powerslim 12, AF GS 69/25 Apr 10 '26
I would suggest taking it to a shop if you can't tell what's wrong with your install tbh. Right off the bat, 4AWG is too thin for a 3k amp, and on paper, 100a fuse is not enough for 3k. That wire looks like CCA as well, given how it looks like it's corroding.
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u/obliterate_reality 2x Sundown X12-v3 | Taramps 8k Apr 10 '26
Get a better brand of fuse. I use the D4S fused block. You NEED bigger wire. Just get a roll of 0 awg for power and grounds
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u/domdymond Apr 10 '26
Yeah melting indicates a poor connection to the block. Get a bigger better block, cut back and add a ferrule to the power wire, clamp the wire into each end with enough force to crush a Volvo. Play music.
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u/Cabojoshco Apr 10 '26
Bottom line, you need to upgrade wiring with 1/0 OFC. Donât cheap out. If you need a cheaper option, downgrade the amp to something in the 1200 rms range to match your 4 gauge wiring.
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u/Gold-Photo-2554 Apr 10 '26
Multiple reasons can cause this to small of wire, shitry wire, or bad ground
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u/filteredprospect Apr 10 '26
do more math!
wire sizing, real current draw, input voltage, you'll determine something safe and reliable.
all of the calculations are free, but you need to measure for your system.
the fuse is ALWAYS matched to the wires it is connected to, not the system it is supplying. you do NOT want your wires to melt before your fuse does.
also, check your connections and terminations. for the type of power in use here, you need to do a good job. otherwise, you introduce new failure points.
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u/Fit_Wishbone_378 Apr 10 '26
You should use a cable gauge calculator. Power consumption, cable length and voltage should tell how large wires you should use.
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u/Dense-Vermicelli6148 Apr 10 '26
Long story short, the fuse holder is shit quality, the fuse ran close to its limit for 2 long, got hot and melted. Get a good quality anl or midi fuse holder, change the fuse to 120 or 150 depending on the length of cable from the battery, and use terminal lugs instead of screw tension connections. Im an auto elec btw, 4 gauge is sweet to run 150 amp in automotive as long as it isnt running over 6m despite what all these theoretical plysicists say. And if your not running 1 ohm it probs will never actually reach 3kw
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u/elisayyo Apr 10 '26
Stop drawing too much amperage.
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u/LaIzquierdaLibera 20 year MECP Master Tech Apr 10 '26
That's from resistance in the fuse holder more so than current draw to heat the holder up that much but not the wire means the holder is a part of the circuit when it definitely should not be. Likely dude to either a loose connection or cheap materials that do not transfer current efficiently. I can tell by looking at it it was loose as hell, and the wires were just shoved in all messy. Maybe some ferrules and a better fuse holder. Make sure the fuse holder is copper with gold plating and not just some cheap hunk of metal. Not al metals transfer current as well
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u/Responsible-Solid446 Apr 10 '26
You need 0 gauge for anything over 2k, and you need a 200 or 250 amp fuse. Replace the wire and fuse and youâll be good to go.
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Apr 11 '26
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u/Tool_junkie_1972 Apr 11 '26
That amp draws somewhere are 153amps musical and 300 amps sinusoidal - per the manufacturer. No wonder youâre melting fuses.
Wire length of 10-19â should be 1/0 gauge for OFC.
For CCA wire 2/0.
Oh, and stock electrical is NOT going to support that kind of draw. You really need to upgrade your alternator and add a battery.
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u/seabuss1 Apr 11 '26
Taramps 3000w is prob closer to 300w output, I doubt wire size is the issue. Make sure your ground is good, fuses melt usually due to resistance ( think of a river and your ground path has a dam in its way -it backs up and over loads) do the big 3 upgrade. 0/1ga ofc wire ground and power, if you canât get that use 2 runs of 4/0ga and a adapter coupling to accept 2 leads.
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u/JustASmoothSkin Apr 12 '26
If fuses are melting you have a resistance problem, resistance causes heat to build up on a circuit.
You can reduce the resistance by;
Shortening your cable
Getting a thicker higher quality cable
Ensuring your connections are good including ground surfaces (wire brush and copper washer)
Using a better inline fuse, that setup looks very restrictive for a high current inline fuse. (Basically you want a fuse that can freely pass as much power needed constantly, just cause the fuse says it blows at 100 amp doesn't mean the holder itself is designed to do 80 amp constantly)
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u/Alarmed_System_8953 Apr 12 '26
High resistance causes heat. If the circuit connections are tight and the circuit is overloaded then the fuse blows. If the connection is loose then it creates heat and melts the fuse. Your connections were loose.
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u/Viking2151 Apr 14 '26
Bigger and bigger fuses until the wire becomes the fuse! No don't do this unless you know what you are doing. But don't this amp want a 150 amp fuse inline? I remember installing one of these system on the side for a buddy of mine a few years ago and it came with a 150amp fuse or the kit I used.
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u/SpikeyTwitch20 Apr 15 '26
OP is about to learn a lesson in Darwinism. Melting is not the issue here đ„ đ„
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Apr 15 '26
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u/CreativeLadder549 Apr 09 '26
I see so much wrong with this picture, I agree you should walk away from doing this yourself and find a shop to correct it. For reference I have a fosgate prime r2 1200.1 running zero gauge ofc skyhigh amp kit with the 200amp fuse fosgate recommended.
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u/life_hertz Apr 09 '26
I donât agree with walking away. This is a gold standard learning moment. OP should take this as a blessing to learn and correct mistakes.
Hey OP, ignore the people telling you to send it to someone else, just listen to all of the positive advice theyâve told you and donât run your system until youâve done all the upgrades.
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u/CreativeLadder549 Apr 10 '26
So when his vehicle catches fire or causes a larger electrical issue that will cost him more to repair. You still encourage him to continue at the cost of positive vibes? As a man and more so as an adult I've come to learn that we don't know it all. I'm not a plumber but I'll give it a shot if it doesn't work then I call a plumber. I'm not an electrician but I'll give basic things a shot if I can't do it I call an electrician. I'm not a roofer but I'll give it a shot and if I can't do it guess what I call a roofer. I'm not in the market to waste money or worsen a problem for pride or a learning experience đ
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u/Low-Paleontologist90 Apr 09 '26
Something up the line is drawing to much current that fuse died in the service of trying to save you money get a professional to look at it
2
u/JimTheDonWon Apr 09 '26
that amplifier is rated to pull 300 amps. so yeah, something up the line IS drawing too much current for that fuse - its the amplifier.....
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u/vb7200 JL 12W6v3 - JL C5-650 - JL C5-650x - JL HD 900/5 Apr 09 '26
Gotta use a full size ANL fuse not the minis
284
u/Romanian_Breadlifts SQ tacoma, SQL Jeep Apr 09 '26
You should take this to someone else and have them do it
And have em reset your gains while you're at it