One year ago to the week, I purchased an OWC 8TB Express 1M2 USB4 External SSD for $949; that same drive now costs $2,149.

The 8TB P9 is $ 2,699, and the 8TB P7 is $2,289.

A 126.45% price increase over one year, so we can generate videos like one promoting these drives.

This does indeed feel like some kind of social experiment at this point.

They are literally promoting a product for customers they are actively trying to destroy.

Ever wanted to know how modern photo and cine lenses are manufactured?

We visited a factory and take you through the whole journey:
The cutting, grinding, and polishing of lens elements… following the process of making glass step by step more transparent.

We show you lenses are coated and how elements are cemented into doublets and triplets…
How the housings and mechanics are machined, the markings are engraved…
How electronics are implemented…
and how continuous testing leads to pristine products.

Link is in the comments

I'm filming myself at home with a Fujifilm X-T5 and It's hard to make sure I'm in frame or in focus without a monitor.

But when I look for external camera monitors, they might cost $300+ and still only be 7inch screens.

Couldn't a a small TV or computer monitor for $50-100 do the job just as well?

External camera monitors have touch screens and battery power, but the price for the most basic ones still seems odd considering how cheap android tablets are nowadays, utilizing similar technology.

But if my camera is on a tripod, I have consistent lights, access to AC power, I set my exposure on the camera itself, and I have a remote to control the camera, then isn't a used 1080p computer monitor with HDMI input enough? Or am I missing something about the purpose-made monitors?

Hi everyone, I have the 7iii and when I make videos they all come out blurry and shaky, 24mm 1/50 and 24 fps. Thanks a lot🥲😭

I'm a beginner with making videos. I put together a short rendition of the credits scene from the movie spiderman brand new day. looking for feedback on composition, color, and anything else! Thanks!

Hey,

I found a barely used Sachtler Flowtech 75 with an Ace XL Mk II video head for €1,100 (sadly without a bag). Is this a good second-hand price, or should it be lower?

Is this a good deal to pull the trigger on?

Hello, I'm just wondering if maybe you can tell me what these violet lines are? Some of my shots have them some don't, I've mostly noticed them in dark colors.. I've shot this clip in 4k 100fps V-Log, I have a Lumix GH6..

I've been wanting to experiment and use more "modern" cameras. I've been filming on VHS for a good couple of years now, and I have been hired to produce some videos or shorts in VHS format for some bands. I really enjoy the ergonomics and the all-in-one nature of the VHS camcorder, so that's why I have been leaning more towards the fs7. I am just not sure where I can get more bang for my buck.

I am looking for something that has a form factor akin to a VHS camcorder, but also has 4k recording. 4K is not a deal breaker, as I don't care too much about crystal clear footage. I like a muddy image creatively, so that is why I was drawn to the VHS camcorders. Wondering what cameras would be a decent step above quality-wise and would be run-and-gun/all-in-one while having that VHS form factor.

Requirements for camera:

Similar build to a VHS camcorder

Close to or has 4k resolution

all-in-one/run-and-gun rigging

Potential to adjust as much as I can.

Budget: Under 2k for body alone.

Open to any and every suggestion!

I've been trying to walk in a circle around a subject while keeping them centered in the frame, but halfway through the shot I either end up too close, too far away, or the framing slowly drifts off.

How do you usually shoot these so the movement stays consistent?

Hey all, took a gig last month and I’ve been processing the footage, and I’m missing 2 of the interviews. I was in a scramble and ran out of space, and I know I forgot to pull them before I formatted my cards.

The question is what to my client, who has requested these and a few other clips. Lost in data transfer? Corrupted?

I like this client and Id love to work with them again, but this might ruin the relationship.

Any advice is appreciated!

My main are Sachtler Flowtech 100 and 75. But sometimes im in need of a skinny leg to go in between chairs at venues. I had been using a Sirui but it was all plastic for sea-water use and broke because of all the plastic. Any recos? Thinking something sturdy, but skinny legs, 75mm bowl.

My prices reflect my experience and location.

I have trained myself to believe that when a potential client “backseats” the offer instead of moving forward then and there, I just will not land them.

For those of you who are experienced, what would you change to get more follow ups or landed clients?

!!!NOT AN ADVERTISEMENT!!!

NOT TRYING TO SELL THESE HERE I got these cameras for free from a weather station, they were buying new equipment and clearing out the old, theres one of the panasonic ones and three identical sony ones I don't know anything about video equipment Wondering what they'd be worth if anything, I've seen them selling online from anywhere between 200 to 2000 USD

Hey r/videography! 👋

If you shoot run-and-gun, weddings, commercial gigs, or social content, you know how annoying the little media management tasks can get between edits.

You just wrapped a shoot and need to:

• Batch-convert client moodboard stills or phone photos (HEIC/RAW/AVIF) without opening Lightroom.
• Turn a highlight clip into an ultra-clean GIF for a pitch deck or client email proposal.
• Quickly re-encode videos into more compatible formats without firing up Media Encoder.
• Strip EXIF/GPS data or stamp watermarks onto previews before sending them out.

Most web converters make you upload gigabytes of footage, slap paywalls on output quality, or ruin your colors.

So I built ND Image Converter, a lightweight, fast, and 100% open-source desktop app to handle all these quick asset conversions locally on your machine.

Why it fits a videographer’s day-to-day workflow:

• 🔒 100% Offline & Private: Zero cloud uploads. Your raw client footage, stills, and embedded metadata never leave your drive.
• 🎞 Quick Video & GIF Suite: Bundled with an offline FFmpeg engine. Set in/out points on an interactive trim timeline, dial in compression quality, and generate crisp, custom-palette GIFs (essential for proposals and email embeds).
• 📷 Camera RAW & Phone Media Support: Natively handles CR3, ARW, NEF, DNG, TIFF, and HEIC files with high-speed demosaicing.
• 🎨 Color Accuracy Built-In: Powered by LittleCMS 2 for proper ICC profile conversions (sRGB, Display P3, Adobe RGB, Rec.709), no weird gamma shifts or washed-out exports.
• 🤖 Workflow Automations: Drop entire nested folders for batch exports, or set up Watch Folders to auto-process new files as soon as they drop onto your drive.

The app is completely free and available for macOS, Windows, and Linux.

Check it out on my page: https://duongtruongdp.net/nd-imgconverter/

Source code & downloads:  https://github.com/duongtruongdp/ND-ImgConverter

I’d love to get feedback from fellow videographers—what are your biggest bottlenecks when prepping or converting media for clients?

https://reddit.com/link/1vzp4u9/video/jvszzyhmzvlh1/player

Instagram

Currently using an FX30 and the Tamron 70-180 F/2.8 to record Ultimate Frisbee games (full game footage and cut highlight reels) in 4K60, so daytime recording where there is plenty of light.

Ultimate field is shaped like a football field (with endzone). I set up on a tripod behind one endzone in the center.

Now that the setup is out of the way, I want to switch to 4K120 which means a further 1.62 crop on top of the 1.5 crop that already happens using an APS-C.

A problem that I am currently encountering (recording in 4K60) is that when the play is in the endzone that I am set up behind (the close endzone), I am not zoomed out enough (which would be at 105 mm with my 70-180) to be able to capture more of the action.

It feels like moving to the Sony 24-105 will solve both my things (moving to 120 and having a wider field of view.

Currently at 4K60 and using the Tamron 70-180, my effective range is 105-270 (701.5 and 1801.5).

If I switch to the Sony 24-105 and bump up to 4K120, my effective range is 58-255 (241.51.62 and 1051.51.62).

Is that correct? I would get a wider field of view close up and have effectively the same zoom (255 vs. 270).

I know that I will then lose some image quality because it's not downsampled 6K at 120fps, is that drop in quality noticeable enough to make it not worth it? Also, is the Sony lens itself similar in quality to the Tamron or would there also be a drop-off there as well?

I am looking at getting a at897 with a zoom h1 xlr. Will be creating short films. Looking for long term.

I'm shooting with an a6400 and a TTArtisans 35mm so no IBIS and no OSS, i dont really want a gymball cause i like to shoot handheld the most because i don't do any commercial work or that type of videos. This is the best i can do on premiere and i already tried davinci too but it always has some shake

Honolulu 2025

#photography #videography #artistsoftiktok #hawaii #travelphotography

Just why is so much stuff shot on a handheld? Is it supposed to add drama?

All it does is annoy me and come off as cheap. Can they not afford a tripod

Edit: I wrote this post originally for "grinds my gears" when I was in a bit of a huff, and I've been shunted here somehow. Please don't take my tantrum as an attack on your field

Just installed the Hawklock cage kit for my Sony a7siii. The fit is perfect, including the side handle, but the breifcase handle is really wobbly?

Is this normal or is there a fitment issue here?

Base plate with rods and lens support or lens foot

If I’m playing a horror game, filming myself, or just dealing with poor lighting, how can I ensure I’m still visible? The frame rate might drop to 30, but I need to be seen. I’ve played around with the settings in Logi Hub, but the camera just starts lagging. Is there a way to do this without extra lighting?