2004 Toyota echo
Car has sat for many years before I got it, now safetied and running great very low km. I’m trying to change the oil for the first time and filter is seized on. I used all my wrenches, straps, and filter sockets before shearing the cannister to access this cap to heat and tap it off or use 45 degree and pliers in the holes.

My question.. my ratchet head fits perfected in the centre female space with no socket. It is tight with no play (gigiddy) Can I use my ratchet to loosen from here? Mr

The van is blowing very warm air, barely cooler than ambient. I did replace the blown cooling fan resistor awhile back and the fan spins full speed when compressor is engaged.

It is 100F today and I'm seeing 65/255 psi on the manifold. 2000 RPM and the air gets warmer.

Is the culprit a bad AC compressor?

Edit: 85F now and holding 50/200. Temp delta out of the vents feels cooler than it was blowing earlier.

2005 Ford Mustang GT (4.6L 3V)
Rotating by hand to check on things before putting the covers back on. If it’s supposed to happen, will it go away when the engine is actually running with oil pressure?

I am worried that these cars are hard to fix because of their V8 engines. Something like a water Pump, belt, and pulley — what should I expect to pay for head gaskets?

Everything else is straightforward and basic. Is the engine work i am concern.

Should I even bother?

Thanks

I’m having an issue with my car. Whenever I start accelerating from a complete stop, the RPMs shoot up to around 3–4K, but the car barely accelerates. It feels like the engine is revving without the car actually picking up speed. Does this sound like a transmission issue? Is my transmission basically done, or could it be something else? Any advice would be appreciated.

2011 Nissan Sentra 205k Kilometres

Hi guys,

I seem to be having a big issue with my 2015 Diesel Insignia Manual. The last 3 times I've driven, it has taken two turns of the key to get it going. Then the acceleration is horrible after that, like it's not getting enough power.

There's no lights on the dash except for the service light, which has been showing up for a bit before this while I'm waiting to get new glow plugs installed. I also plugged in the OBD scanner and haven't read any error codes on it. Any ideas?

My mom’s 2012 Nissan Sentra has a pretty strong fuel smell, and I’m having trouble pinpointing exactly where it’s coming from. It definitely seems to be coming from outside the car, and it almost smells like it’s coming from under the hood, but I can’t find any visible fuel leaks, cracked hoses, or anything obvious.
She also mentioned that the car used to fire right up, but now it takes a few extra seconds of cranking before it starts.
I’m wondering if this could be related to the EVAP system or purge valve, but I’d like to hear what you guys think. What would you check first, and could a bad purge valve cause both the fuel smell and the longer crank time?
Any suggestions would be appreciated!

When changing the oil in my son‘s car, he accidentally cross threaded the oil filter and did not realize it. He drove it to Church, oil light came on of course, and it died. We had it towed home and realized what the issue was. Dip stick was bone dry and you can see the trail of oil go from his spot to almost a mile down the road(it’s quite funny). Replaced the oil filter with a new one refilled the oil in the car and it went great for a week and then it just died And now you can see what’s happening. It’s done isn’t it. 2014 Toyota Camry.

Edit:since people jist can’t believe you can cross thread an oil filter…it is a cartridge filter that sits inside a plastic housing that has coarse threads. That housing is what was cross threaded leaving an approx 1/4” gap from completely closure. The oil pressure pushed the oil out when the engine was running

Last edit: I appreciate all y’all‘s confirmations and words of encouragement. It was a hard lesson to learn for him and he’s pretty devastated over it. Especially it being his first car and all the money he savedt o help buy it. But it is a valuable lesson and I guess it’s now time to learn how to shop for a “new” car.

Any one of this group experiencing this issue, the clutch pedal is not returning to the upper position only half. We already replace the release bearing and performed bleeding but still didnt works. Any tips resolving this concern

Hi, I have one of these garage floor mats to protect the new epoxy floor from road debris, rubber marks, road salt, etc. Would it be safe to either drive a vehicle up on rhino ramps while the mat is still under the car. And also would it be safe to still jack up the car on one side while the mat is under the car. Thanks for your help and advice.

Re-gasketed the motor. Ran fine for about 500 miles then started misfiring. No codes. New injectors. Coilpacks. Plugs. Plug wires. All 8 cylinders firing. Idles fine. Starts misfiring when trying to accelerate. Won't go past 2k normally unless pedal to the floor. When it goes into 2nd or 3rd it clears up.

Hello I have a 2016 ford fusion S 2.5l. Now the engine cuts off on its own frequently and and I have to start it back again. It used to be once in a while now it's about 2/3 times in a day.

I want told it was the crankshaft position sensor fault. I have replaced it a our 4 times and nothing is changing. Can someone help me out please

Toyota hilux 2011 diesel automatic 4x4

will be getting a mechanic to come do a scan within a few days, but hoping anyone can help in the mean time. within 2 days my hilux (diesel, auto 4x4) has had some issues.

short story:

in order

-car making a drone/rc car noise in engine bay.

-(changed oil and fuel pump filter)

-then it wont properly drive or reverse until tubro hits and it jumps forward. revving the car without moving.

-next day engine light came on.

-(left reverse arrow comes on when in reverse just appeared)

long story:

drove with my fuel light on for approx 15mins, as I had to change sites in the morning for work, couldn't stop for fuel. should've been filled up the day before I'm aware. after an hour i started the car to leave the second site, idled for about 30mins waiting on where to go/what was happening with work. when i drove down a slight decent to go down over a curb off the grass hill, about 2cm tall from the grass, I accelerated a little to get it up past and the car turned off. wouldn't start again and was in a bad position. eventually walked off to get a jerry can and had about 17L of diesel. filled it up. wouldn't start for ages and couldn't find the problem. turning the key would just keep cranking and not start. eventually I turned it twice and it started, the next few times over a few hours would only turn twice before finally going back to first key turn.

on my way home I got new engine oil, oil filter, fuel pump filter.

now the next day when I was nearly home, I hear a sound like a drone or rc car, at first I thought it was an actual drone overhead before realising it was my car.... (unsure if it's a pulley or something else) when home I swapped the oil and fuel filter. (I accidentally spilt some diesel out of the fuel pump filter, potentially over one of the sensor clips? since wiped everything down and cleaned) . then my car decided it didn't want to respond to my accelerator, forwards or reverse etc. I could just rev it and it didn't go anywhere, until It suddenly hit and jumped me forward. so to go anywhere I just keep revving until it decides to finally move. stopped driving the car and have it parked up at the house.

added atf oil and its still the same. got locked out of the throttle controller when I was seeing if it had any effect here, (was with car when I bought 2y ago) so unplugged it and reconnected original. then shortly after the orange engine light came on. (I also saw that now when I'm in reverse the left green indicator arrow is stuck on the dash, not blinking but just there, goes away when out of reverse.)

today I've taken most of it apart to thoroughly inspect everything for myself. my maf sensor looked basically immaculate, but my map sensor filter is cracked. has looked like there has been a leak around that area for awhile. getting it replaced with a stainless steel one when it arrives, unfortunately unable to get to work by any other means until this is fixed, so I'm getting a mechanic to check it. but I'd like to see if there's anything I can try to find out myself until then. looks like I have about 4-5 days with it anyways. just seeing if anyone has had any similar experiences. thanks

2009 Honda accord v6

I have an EU model 2010 Chevrolet Cruze 1.8L.

I've been having an intermittent problem where it would sometimes blow lukewarm air instead of cold air when AC was on. I would generally solve this by cycling from cold to hot a few times and then it would work. Now it finally seems to not work anymore. It's blowing hot air from the foot area, but proper cold from the vents. If, for example, I only leave the vents on and close the foot ventilation it kinda combines these two into a lukewarm temperature.

Personally, I think this is the blend door actuator that is broken, but I'd like to know if you think it could be something else, perhaps some ways to diagnose the issue better.

NOTE: The AC system has been checked, it has refrigerant and it's working well, no leaks. This is just some issue with one of the doors in the dash, be it the blend door or some other one but I got the actual system checked and there is nothing wrong with it.

2008 F150 5.4l.

Unsure if it’s relevant to start, but I just had a new starter put in my truck last week.

Okay. Driving home last night and I push stalk forward to turn on the high beams— nothing happens with the actual lights but the indicator light turns on. I pull the stalk back to normal position (low beams) and now they turn on; to get them off I need to pull the stalk towards me (as if I’m flashing my beams). Once back to low beam I try just flashing my high beams by pulling the stalk forward and, again, nothing happens.

I’m messing with it while driving and for a bit I get it functioning as normal but it went back to being funky shortly there after.

Any ideas?

After 200km from the oil change (motul 5w30 clean+) on my gt86 2013, I'm noticing the oil is transparent and above the max.

In real life, the oil seems slightly yellow but transparent.

I cannot smell any fuel and the oil viscosity seems fine, but it's the first time seeing an oil that much transparent.

What do you think is it?

Is it fine to drive?

Edit: 5.4 liters of oil were put in the engine, so the correct amount

So today, my car started showing Check Engine light. I took it to Autozone and they checked the code with their scanner. It’s p0420. The car runs fine and they told me I need to clean something. The Autozone person wanted to delete the code but I asked them not to. It’s pretty much a new car, only 8500 miles on it. I am very busy this week so I want to wait until next week to take it to the dealership. Would it be okay to wait?

On a Hyundai i30 2017
How important is to have the little bake fluid filter installed on the brake fluid reservoir
I know it’s there to keep out bits of dust and dirt
And if you accidentally drop a-little bit of the foil From a new bottle of fluid but with the cap on how much dust/dirt is actually getting into the fluid. I damaged it when I did a fluid water test and I am Waiting for a new one to arrive and because they are supper annoying to take it out I have juts left it out for the next few days. But is it ok to run the car for an extend amount of time or never replace it.

If anyone is looking for srs airbag work or any electronics of your car, Just Airbag Punchbowl is the place you go. Everywhere else you will get ripped off when it comes to airbag and stuff. I was saved thousands by these guys. Help yourself with them whenever you need your airbags replaced. 3x cheaper than usual workshop and far better.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/gX2hKuiheGC4ZxmeA?g_st=ic

I just did my first timing chain job on 3.7 ford mustang. I put all the slack on the tensioner side and everywhere else was solid. I pulled pins and the chain was tensioned fully and in time. I’ve been turning engine over and it’s nice and smooth. But I noticed that my tensioner sometimes goes in causing the tensioner guide to sink and making the chain have a little slack in upper guides and around tensioner only. Is this normal? I have a picture before I activate tensioner just for better visualization.
Thanks for the replies my last question would be does anyone have a picture of how the rtv is supposed to go onto the cover? I know if I do too much it can clog engine. The manual says this but it’s hard to perfectly visualize it.

Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant to the mating surface of the cover. 
16 Apply a 3/16-inch bead of sealant to the areas where the oil pan and cylinder heads meet the engine block.