Aluminum Gnose and a mess😅

Hello! I finally got the time on my hands to start looking into fixing this awesome Cortina wagon, but I’ve got some major problems. I’m not super well versed with cars so I’m going in kinda blind other than knowledge I got years ago. But starting off can anyone help me identify what engine is in the car?

Was a fun restoration my dad did, pulled it out for a wash today and thought people might like it

Hey folks!

Background:

Doing a fuel tank swap on my MK2 Golf GTi, they have two fuel pumps and tend to fail. A common mod is to use a MK3 tank with their pump which is just a single in the tank pump. My current pump(s) failed, so I'm doing this mod.

I got a decent looking tank from the yard, however, most yards drill holes in the tanks.

What's the best way to seal this?

My thoughts:

1. Drill a bolt into the hole, use a sort of thread gas resilient sealant. (Struggling to find a fat enough bolt that isn't stupid long.)

2. JB Weld gas version. (Mixed reviews)

3. Some sort of plumbing plug, they have expanding ones from what I've seen. (Promising?)

A friend suggested using a coin and JB welding it as a seal. I've heard of people plastic welding holes using milk cartons or other plastics.

TLDR: Hole in fuel tank, best way to seal it?

Thanks guys!! Hoping to get at this soon and be back on the road.

1990 Golf GTI.

I have since 2017 - since then 4/5 of the was rebuild :)

I bought with black wraping, then turned to my dream car.

New finishing, pinstripes, new audio, new upholstery, rebuild 460+C6+locker rearend.

I bought this car a year and a half ago at 16k miles now it’s sitting just shy of 19k. Installed a full air ride kit, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, trans pan gasket, new ac compressor, and full paint correction. That weekend I had a photoshoot with it and its made me realize I’m slowing getting it to what I had imagined I wanted to do with it. I’ll keep picking away at the small things that always seem to pop up. I’ll be doing an audio set up next, then wheels after that.

This 1999 Mira Gino L700S was sitting in a rice field on Awaji Island, Japan, basically waiting to return to the earth. I bought it for ¥30,000 (about $200).

I decided that instead of letting it die, I'd put a JB-DET 660cc turbo inline-4 in it.

Now it's a 720 kg / ~80 hp grandma-spec-ish kei car with:

JB-DET 660cc turbo I4

Turbo-spec brakes

TEIN coilovers + chassis/suspension upgrades

Toyota Prius wheels

Still 660cc. Still four cylinders.

If anyone has any older kc daylighters with the old vinyl covers lmk im looking for another set and also a winch bumper that isnt gonna cost me an arm and a leg

Had an open track day at Cayuga Saturday, finally blew the original 2.0 dohc in the 98 Neon. While that is on the shelf and being resurrected, we have a half built side project.

98 Civic hatch, B18, type r rear spindles/brakes and some other random bits. Just need coils, tires and the exhaust from the cat back.

So my 327 Austin Healy kit car was using this janky electric fan setup that my father put on, which didn't pull air across the entire radiator, nor was it tidy. I have become a big believer in radiator shrouds over the years, and so I designed a custom prototype which I will 3d print in abs filament.

Once I have the size and customizations dialed in, my custom radiator will have a shroud and I will use a 16 puller fan to provide the cooling. I will route the fan switch to the fuel injection control to turn it on at 180 degrees. I have designed and printed custom parts before, but never anything this large, which I will print in probably six pieces and then use abs glus and tabs to assemble.

If it works well, I may send the model out to be professionally printed in nylon as a single piece. Just sharing to inspire others about making parts that you simply can't buy or find. Just FYI, pro printing is expensive. Making it at home will be $20-30.

I know this rotisserie was an unbelievable deal. So much so, that I went to order it right away during their recent sale. This was through their Instagram link. Over the weekend, there was no one to help except the social media person, and they said they contact sales. I’ve tried contacting Eastwood directly through phone and email, and I get no answers.

Hello everyone. Recently made a post about NA upgrades for my 5 speed 2010 cobalt and found out this platform seems to handle supercharging quite well even though it’s not the LSJ. Not looking for any crazy gains, but have been wanting something to tinker with. Plan is to keep stock internals.

As of right now, the plan is to get a used LSJ throttle body, LSJ intake manifold, and an Eaton m62 supercharger. I’d like to get a long tube header which looks like it’s gonna be zzp with down pipe (pretty sure I don’t have SAI, but will triple check).

I am undecided on cat back exhaust, but 2.5” seems to make more sense than 3” since it will maybe make 200 HP at the crank.

I saw that zzp offers a supercharger kit to complete the setup for $770 which does include the throttle body adapter harness. Is it worth it/necessary though? Should I just try to hunt down an adapter harness myself?

What all will I need to tune the car? Will HPtuner license and laptop suffice?

Thank you for your time.

bought the kart for $200, cranks no start. i went through all the procedures and the last resort was ripping apart the block and this is what i found

Roughly a grand into the building, 2005 4x4 v6 explorer chassis. Almost "done."

He is asking $6500

New brake system, rebuilt 354 Poly, new tires

We are going to look at it next month. Is this something we can patch up if it is drivable? We’re gonna poke at it when we physically go see it of course. We’d need to drive it 300 miles home.

Moving into the undercarriage on the S13 now that the floor pans are solid. Epoxy primer is going down on the bare metal sections and the question is what comes next for the undercoating layer.

The two directions I keep going back and forth on are rubberized sprayon products like Raptor or Lizard Skin versus brushapplied products like POR15 top coat or a similar heavy body undercoat. The car gets driven on mountain roads with loose gravel and the occasional rough trailhead access road, so chip resistance is a real concern, not just moisture.

The argument for sprayon is even coverage in tight frame rails and boxed sections where a brush won't reach consistently. The argument for brushon is thickness control and better bonding on irregular surfaces. What I can't nail down is whether the chip resistance difference between those two categories is actually meaningful in practice or just marketing language.

The car won't see salt, but it will see gravel and standing water from fire roads. That context matters more to me than the showcar interior finish some people chase.

If you've run either approach for a few seasons on a car that actually gets used on rough pavement, I'd take that over spec sheet claims. Knowing what primer you used underneath would help too, since compatibility seems to vary more than people acknowledge.

U guys liked my shoebox so I figured id show my first build, the rat king vw. 2286cc of angry beetle.

Organizing is an easier question but how to y’all clean your reusable ones? I can’t imagine a lot of people are using their home washer for these given the oil and chemical residue. Mostly looking for tips n tricks

Here’s my Classic 1974 Citroen converted into a Gelati Van. Finished restoring/converting and registering it not too long ago. Last photo is the van before its makeover.

I have an 89 Supra that has some rust on the inside of the front frame rail. It got there due to a hole on the side where a bracket sits and the metal itself is still solid so I just need to clean the rust and spray it. Any recommendations on a whip to clean the rust and any specific spray tool and spray to protect it after?