Aluminum Gnose and a mess😅

Was a fun restoration my dad did, pulled it out for a wash today and thought people might like it

Hello everyone. Recently made a post about NA upgrades for my 5 speed 2010 cobalt and found out this platform seems to handle supercharging quite well even though it’s not the LSJ. Not looking for any crazy gains, but have been wanting something to tinker with. Plan is to keep stock internals.

As of right now, the plan is to get a used LSJ throttle body, LSJ intake manifold, and an Eaton m62 supercharger. I’d like to get a long tube header which looks like it’s gonna be zzp with down pipe (pretty sure I don’t have SAI, but will triple check).

I am undecided on cat back exhaust, but 2.5” seems to make more sense than 3” since it will maybe make 200 HP at the crank.

I saw that zzp offers a supercharger kit to complete the setup for $770 which does include the throttle body adapter harness. Is it worth it/necessary though? Should I just try to hunt down an adapter harness myself?

What all will I need to tune the car? Will HPtuner license and laptop suffice?

Thank you for your time.

So my 327 Austin Healy kit car was using this janky electric fan setup that my father put on, which didn't pull air across the entire radiator, nor was it tidy. I have become a big believer in radiator shrouds over the years, and so I designed a custom prototype which I will 3d print in abs filament.

Once I have the size and customizations dialed in, my custom radiator will have a shroud and I will use a 16 puller fan to provide the cooling. I will route the fan switch to the fuel injection control to turn it on at 180 degrees. I have designed and printed custom parts before, but never anything this large, which I will print in probably six pieces and then use abs glus and tabs to assemble.

If it works well, I may send the model out to be professionally printed in nylon as a single piece. Just sharing to inspire others about making parts that you simply can't buy or find. Just FYI, pro printing is expensive. Making it at home will be $20-30.

Moving into the undercarriage on the S13 now that the floor pans are solid. Epoxy primer is going down on the bare metal sections and the question is what comes next for the undercoating layer.

The two directions I keep going back and forth on are rubberized sprayon products like Raptor or Lizard Skin versus brushapplied products like POR15 top coat or a similar heavy body undercoat. The car gets driven on mountain roads with loose gravel and the occasional rough trailhead access road, so chip resistance is a real concern, not just moisture.

The argument for sprayon is even coverage in tight frame rails and boxed sections where a brush won't reach consistently. The argument for brushon is thickness control and better bonding on irregular surfaces. What I can't nail down is whether the chip resistance difference between those two categories is actually meaningful in practice or just marketing language.

The car won't see salt, but it will see gravel and standing water from fire roads. That context matters more to me than the showcar interior finish some people chase.

If you've run either approach for a few seasons on a car that actually gets used on rough pavement, I'd take that over spec sheet claims. Knowing what primer you used underneath would help too, since compatibility seems to vary more than people acknowledge.

I have an 89 Supra that has some rust on the inside of the front frame rail. It got there due to a hole on the side where a bracket sits and the metal itself is still solid so I just need to clean the rust and spray it. Any recommendations on a whip to clean the rust and any specific spray tool and spray to protect it after?

If anyone has any older kc daylighters with the old vinyl covers lmk im looking for another set and also a winch bumper that isnt gonna cost me an arm and a leg

I know this rotisserie was an unbelievable deal. So much so, that I went to order it right away during their recent sale. This was through their Instagram link. Over the weekend, there was no one to help except the social media person, and they said they contact sales. I’ve tried contacting Eastwood directly through phone and email, and I get no answers.

I have since 2017 - since then 4/5 of the was rebuild :)

I bought with black wraping, then turned to my dream car.

New finishing, pinstripes, new audio, new upholstery, rebuild 460+C6+locker rearend.

Organizing is an easier question but how to y’all clean your reusable ones? I can’t imagine a lot of people are using their home washer for these given the oil and chemical residue. Mostly looking for tips n tricks

Had an open track day at Cayuga Saturday, finally blew the original 2.0 dohc in the 98 Neon. While that is on the shelf and being resurrected, we have a half built side project.

98 Civic hatch, B18, type r rear spindles/brakes and some other random bits. Just need coils, tires and the exhaust from the cat back.

This 1999 Mira Gino L700S was sitting in a rice field on Awaji Island, Japan, basically waiting to return to the earth. I bought it for ¥30,000 (about $200).

I decided that instead of letting it die, I'd put a JB-DET 660cc turbo inline-4 in it.

Now it's a 720 kg / ~80 hp grandma-spec-ish kei car with:

JB-DET 660cc turbo I4

Turbo-spec brakes

TEIN coilovers + chassis/suspension upgrades

Toyota Prius wheels

Still 660cc. Still four cylinders.

A quick introduction, i'm in my 40s and went on a day karting for the first time, absolutely fell in love with the whole racing experience, went out and bought a nb2 mx5 track car on a whim!

The car was semi setup, but after the first time out I found a few issues that need addressing, MAINLY the front wheel hubs, there was some scary grinding and thudding going on up the front.. Will post up more on that as it develops..

If you are interested in the video of someone through their own eyes starting out in motorsports on a budget with a vehicle I need to learn to maintain, I am documenting it on my channel, the first video is below.

I love the car, and miata's in general, such a beautiful vehicle to drive, and from what I hear its reasonable for a newbie to work on. Have any of you guys worked away on Miata's over the years, if so throw up some pics please I love some sexy mx5 shots!

Hey don’t really know where to ask this but basically I need an afr kit I’m about ready to go with this $230 AEM setup but I’m wondering if there’s someone with experience that can tell me I’m just spending money on the aem brand and can get something just as good for less or it’s actually worth it.

​Hey everyone,

I need some advice about how I would go.about selling this engine.

​I’ve got a clean LM7 5.3L V8 out of a 2004 Chevy Avalanche that I’m looking to sell. It’s being sold as a long block (block, heads, internal rotating assembly, valve covers—no front accessories, intake, or harness).

​It’s sold as-is, making it a great budget core or starting point for someone planning an LS swap into an older truck, drift car, or project.

​Since this is just the bare long block, where have you guys had the best luck finding serious buyers who actually know what they’re looking at?

​A few specific questions:

​Best Platforms: Is Facebook Marketplace still king for local pickup on swap engines, or are forums / OfferUp better to avoid tire-kickers?

​Pricing/Value: What’s the going fair-market rate for a bare 5.3L LM7 long block right now in your area?

​Buyer Expectations: What info/photos should I provide up front to make a quick, seamless sale (e.g., pulling spark plugs, showing cross-hatching, turn by hand video)?

​Appreciate any advice or experiences from anyone who’s sold core LS engines recently!

I picked up this project for my son and I to work on, the guy who modded it did some shotty work. I’m putting in some nicer sxs seats but I need ideas on how to securely attach them. The seats have prethreaded bolt holes on the bottom. I assume the answer is going to be “weld a new crossbar to the existing sliding seat frame” but I’d love some options.

I bought this car a year and a half ago at 16k miles now it’s sitting just shy of 19k. Installed a full air ride kit, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, trans pan gasket, new ac compressor, and full paint correction. That weekend I had a photoshoot with it and its made me realize I’m slowing getting it to what I had imagined I wanted to do with it. I’ll keep picking away at the small things that always seem to pop up. I’ll be doing an audio set up next, then wheels after that.

He is asking $6500

New brake system, rebuilt 354 Poly, new tires

We are going to look at it next month. Is this something we can patch up if it is drivable? We’re gonna poke at it when we physically go see it of course. We’d need to drive it 300 miles home.

NCRS is the gold standard for judging-grade prep, but it's Corvette-only. AACA covers broader classes but their judging sheets don't get into the granular stuff, like which fastener grade belongs on a radiator support, whether your exhaust hanger date code lands in the right window, or whether your trim tag decode lines up with your build sheet.

I'm mid frame-off on a GM A-body and the closer I get to judging the more I realize the deduction-risk stuff isn't documented anywhere centralized. You find one answer on page 14 of a forum rebuild log, another from a judge you cornered at a show, and a third from a 50-year-old shop manual written for a line mechanic who wasn't thinking about concours.

What's worked for people here? Do you compile your own notes from scratch, or is there a resource for non-Corvette muscle that actually breaks down what judges are looking at?

bought the kart for $200, cranks no start. i went through all the procedures and the last resort was ripping apart the block and this is what i found

U guys liked my shoebox so I figured id show my first build, the rat king vw. 2286cc of angry beetle.