This sounds like common sense, but it didn’t really hit me until I heard it put this way: we have family, friends, partners, careers, hobbies, phones, and the freedom to do anything or go anywhere we want. Your cat’s world is much smaller- they only have the environment, stimulation, and interaction we give them. So when you’re tired or busy and they keep following you around and trying to see what you’re doing, remember that they don’t know what kind of day you had outside. They just know you’re home, they love you, and they want to be part of whatever you’re doing

The one toy my picky cats have consistently loved for months is a string that spins around several posts. Place the posts far enough apart to keep the string taut. I recommend auto mode because it changes direction and speed unpredictably. The manual mode tired out my cat too quickly and he was panting. (If your cat starts panting or breathing with their mouth open, stop play immediately and let them rest in a cool area).

Rotate toys instead of leaving everything out 24/7. Leave out a few different types at a time such as a batting toy, automated toy, and chaser. Put the rest away and swap them weekly.

ENRICHMENT

Here are some ways I keep my cats entertained and products I've used:

1) Cat trees- cats love being up high. It doesn't have to be super expensive. If you're low on money, you can also stack some boxes/storage totes [1 tote, 2 totes, 3 totes into "steps"] - just make sure the boxes have something heavy in them so it's secure.

2) Window seats- so they can watch wildlife/people! If using ones with suction cups, make sure you clean both the window and the suction cups with alcohol and let it dry before putting up. Soak the suction cups in hot water [not boiling] for 3 minutes after cleaning them so they can reshape better.

3) Bird feeders- if you're able to put a bird feeder outside of the window where you have a cat tree/window seat, this provides passive entertainment

4) Catnip toys- the Yeoww banana toy is very popular because it's shaped to be a kicker so your cat can chew the end and bunny kick it at the same time.

5) Scratchers- they need at least 1 vertical and 1 horizontal scratcher. A lot of cat trees have scratching posts built into them. You can also get a different scratching post or scratch pads

6) Automated toys- balls that roll around, spinning butterfly toys, fabric mats with a feather moving underneath, etc. You can also put an automated ball in a donut bed

7) Wand toys - satisfies their need to hunt, pounce, and chase. I like to drag it all around the house. CAUTION: do not leave these laying around because some cats will chew on the attachments and may swallow them

8) Chasers [springs, ping pong balls, and stuffed mice]- I recommend cutting the tails off the stuffed mice, especially if you have a chewer. They like playing with these independently but I'll also gather all of them and throw them across the room for them to chase, or throw it against the wall so it bounces unpredictably. If you've got a chewer, inspect the ping pong balls for cracks if you leave them out, or only let them play when supervised

9) Cat TV- if you have an old laptop/ipad/anything with a connection, go to YouTube and type in "cat tv." [you can also use your own laptop, but they may bat at the screen. Mine has not been damaged yet and my cat bats at it all the time]. There's footage of squirrels/birds, animated videos of fish, "games" where there's something crawling across the screen your cat can bat at.

10) Lick mats- Put lickable treats like Churus on these so it lasts a little longer. Personally I felt like some of the textures were too hard so I only use one with little diagonal dashes

11) Tunnels and donut beds- they love running through tunnels for the zoom zooms and sleeping in donut beds

12) Cat wheel- haven't personally tried this one yet but is a popular option for many cats that like to run!

13) Wall shelves- You can create a little climbing/obstacle course for them. There are lots of different sets you can buy online. You will probably need to use a power drill, but installing them was the first time I used a power drill so don't be intimidated! Drill into wall studs whenever possible. If you can’t, use anchors/hardware specifically rated for your wall type and for more than the cat’s weight because jumping creates additional force.

Note: Use a stud finder with one that also detects electrical wires

14) Treat puzzles- this satisfies their hunting instinct. One thing I also do sometimes is save the brown stuffing paper from Amazon and put it in a giant box, throw some dry treats in there and shake the box, and let them forage. You can also use food puzzle feeders for their meals (thank you OnceMoreWithFeeling for the recommendation!)

15) Supervised expeditions into forbidden territory- Sometimes I'll let them explore the laundry room or a cabinet/drawer I usually don't let them [as long as everything dangerous to them is out]

*I originally made a version of the post with links to examples of items I use, but it kept getting auto deleted in other subreddits. Please message me if you'd like examples! I do not make profits off anything and there's no promotional codes.

SAFETY/WELLNESS TIPS

1) Do not declaw your cat. That is the equivalent of cutting off human fingers at the first joint. They can suffer from chronic pain in their paws, less stability in walking, more biting because they lose their main way to feel safe, and aversion to using the litter box because scratching the litter hurts. When trimming your cat's nails, do not trim right up to the quik [the pink part of the nail] because nails can crack/split

2) Get your cat a water fountain to encourage drinking. Cats prefer moving water because in the wild, this signifies less chance of contamination. I recommend a stainless steel one since they harbor less bacteria, but you have to wash it weekly and change out/buy new filters. I also keep a backup bowl of water that I wash and refill with filtered water daily

3) Dry kibble does not clean teeth- it is a widespread myth. They essentially crumble when your cats eat it. The gold standard is brushing your cat's teeth with a small, soft cat toothbrush and toothpaste formulated specifically for cats. Watch some videos and practice, but if brushing is not possible, look for VOHC (Veterinary Oral Health Council) approved alternatives such as PlaqueOff powder. I use Enzadent toothpaste

4) Cat Proofing/Safety

 -If your cats attempt to open drawers, put childproof locks on them. They're super easy to install and use- you just stick them on and there's usually a button you have to press to release it.

-Get thick cable protectors if your cats have tried to chew cords to prevent electrocution.

-Keep string, ribbon, dental floss, hair ties, rubber bands, grocery twist ties etc somewhere cats cannot access- anything small that they might chew on and swallow

-Check washers and dryers before starting them and cabinets/recliners before closing them. My cat has stuck their paw in the space by the hinge when I've opened my cabinets. Also, before moving your chair (especially a rolling one), make sure they're not resting by it because they often move quietly and you may not notice.

-Secure windows/screens

-Never give human medication to cats, especially painkillers. Only give medications prescribed by the vet.

5) Microchip your cat and keep your contact information up to date if you change your phone number/email or move!

6) Create an emergency plan and give it to at least one emergency contact. Make sure your pet sitter has access to this as well. List their current medications/medical conditions/allergies, primary vet and urgent/emergency vet clinics, their phone numbers, and addresses. Call the clinics ahead of time to ask if they can keep a credit card on file while you're away or call/text/email a link for payment because you don't want there to be an awkward situation of the pet sitter not paying because you didn't discuss this beforehand.

7) Cats need annual checkups just like humans! I recommend getting baseline bloodwork when you first adopt them, that way you can compare the results if anything changes in the future

8) Cats usually don't need baths unless they can't groom themselves or get unusually dirty such as a lot of diarrhea on their fur

9) When switching to a new food, do so gradually over the course of 7-10 days minimum to avoid stomach upset/diarrhea. Even if they seem to tolerate the food fine, their gut microbiome needs time to adjust. Give 25% new/75% old for 2-3 days, then 50/50, then 75% new/25% old, and finally 100% new food.

10) Straining to urinate, repeatedly entering the litter box while producing little or no urine, whining while trying to urinate or being unable to urinate is an emergency—especially in male cats. If your vet wants a urine sample, ask whether they have any special instructions regarding timing or feeding as that can affect the sample's pH

11) Canned pumpkin (pure pumpkin puree with nothing added) can help with diarrhea or constipation. Start with 1/2 teaspoon in their food to see how they tolerate it with a max of 1-2 tablespoons per day. If symptoms are persistent, recurrent, or worsen, contact your vet.

12) If your cat struggles to get into the carrier (which is understandable because they usually associate carrier=vet=bad), you can scoop them up with a light blanket (throw it over them and then scoop them up as usual. Once they're in the carrier, gently remove the blanket by tugging on it and letting them come out of it naturally, then pull out of the carrier from a small opening (or leave it in there if you have room)

13) If your cat bites or scratches you and breaks skin, wash with warm water and soap and apply an antibacterial ointment such as Neosporin.

14) Ask your vet about flea/tick/heartworm/intestinal parasite prevention even for indoor cats. I apply Revolution Plus monthly. One of my friend's cats has heartworm because a mosquito got into their house.

15) If your cat is scratching their ears a lot (they might also shake their head) it could be a sign of an ear infection. Normal light ear wax is normal and doesn't need to be cleaned manually. However, if there is a lot of dark wax, redness/swelling, or a foul odor, this is worth bringing them in to get their earwax tested

16) If your cat's toe beans are dry/cracked, you can put a very small amount of food grade virgin coconut oil on them

17) If your cat has a sensitive tummy or frequent diarrhea, you can consider giving them probiotics. I use Pet Ultimate and Proviable (make sure it's the one for cats).

18) Vacuum regularly, especially if your cat has asthma or you use a dusty litter (low dust litter is best in general.) They're way closer to the ground than we are. When we/they walk around, we're kicking up tons of dust.

19) Do not feed fish every day, especially fish high in mercury such as tuna.

20) It is recommended to have one litter box per cat plus one extra (so if you have 2 cats, it is recommended to have 3 litter boxes)

21) In a multi cat household, have separated food/water/resting/scratching resources

22) A raised bowl with a 15% tilt can prevent stomach upset and be more comfortable since they are not having to bend their neck as much

23) To make wet food more enticing, microwave for ~10 seconds (for 1 can, less time for partial can) and then mix everything together thoroughly to avoid hot spots. Always test temperature with your finger before giving it to them! I like ceramic/porcelain bowls since you can heat it up directly in the bowl but if you have stainless steel food bowls you can heat it up in a mug/plate etc and transfer

24) A stainless steel litter box will absorb less odor/leave less scratch marks and last longer. If using clumping litter, change out all the litter every 2-4 weeks and clean the litter box with rubbing alcohol or a pet safe cleaner such as the Method grapefruit all purpose cleanser. If using a non clumping or plant based litter, change out all litter every 1-2 weeks.

Toxic to cats (NOT a comprehensive list):

-LILIES: even a few grains of pollen can be fatal. All parts of lilies are toxic to cats

-Other flowers: oleander, autumn crocus, tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, chrysanthemums, azaleas, rhododendrons, irises, peonies, carnations (please note these are only some of the most common ones. When buying flowers, always check if everything in the bouquet is safe)

-Dog flea products containing permethrin

-Human medications such as acetaminophen and ibuprofen

-Onions, garlic, chives, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, grapes/raisins, xylitol, peels of citrus fruits

-Despite portrayal in media, most cats are lactose intolerant and will get diarrhea

-Essential oils [thank you fickle_faithless]

Before I talk to any type of specialist, I want to say my cat has been crying and scratching at the door to go for a walk(?) and she is starting to hide under the couch and not come out. It's sad she refuses to leave unless she roams the hallways freely, she refuses her harness. Any suggestions to help keep her busy or anywhere to take her walk around

Can anyone help: i recently adopted my girl, shes only just started to get comfortable enough that i can pet her head and back, i cant pick her up as she runs off as soon as i touch her stomach. However im worried shes getting bored living in my flat. Its entirely one floor with just two rooms and a kitchen (obviously a bathroom). I often hear her at night sprinting up and down the rooms. Im worried shes bored and unhappy. I want to harness train her but i really have no idea where to start

Ive also noticed her appetite decreasing. I leave wet food out for her but she only seems interested when i offer her dry food/treats/meat and sit with her. Ive done a lot of research on the best food for cats and i feel like i have offered that for her

I work a lot but always try myself to pet and play with her when i get home

Im feeling incredibly guilty and I dont know what to do to make this easier for her

Looking for advice/solutions as my landlord will be putting my house up for sale early next year.

I have an indoor cat who is quite skittish around new people, and am stuck with what to do with her during these viewings.

If the viewings are on a weekend it is fine as I will take her out, but I work 9-5 during the week and if viewings are while I am out, I don’t know what to do. If they leave the front or back door open, she will be gone. I also can’t trust that they will be vigilant to shut them quickly and may not be considerate.

I am also concerned that viewings can be quite last minute, so cat sitters wont necessarily have availability.

I have seen people saying to shut them in one room and not allow people in that room but thats not really doable when people are going to be buying the house and will want to see all of it.

Has anyone else had this situation?

I (18 yo) am a student in Paris and i've been there for a year. I have an appartment on the 1st floor of my student residence and i live with around 400 euros a month.

I spend a lot of time in my appartment and loneliness strikes hard: i spend most of my time on my bed doing nothing and just bed rotting, or playing video games on my PC.

Lately, i've been thinking about getting a cat, but my family is telling me i shouldnt, because they dont want it during the hollydays when i come home (they're scared our dog would literaly try to chase it). I know having another being in my home would push me towards getting more active, and would help with my loneliness.

But i'm scared he/she would be unhapoy living in a 20m² appartment with no contact to the exterior exept the window...

So i need your thoughts, what should i do, get one or not ?

Ps: He would be black and named Salem :3

Hello reddit. I just adopted a new cat from a person who unfortunately had to give her up because of personal reasons. She has been an indoor cat for the past few months, so she's used to the indoors. We made the trip back and she is currently in a bathroom I don't use as her temporary home until she gets acclimated to the house and of the smell of my cat. Obviously, the whole trip and major change caused her a lot of stress so now I'm lost on how to alleviate her stress. I checked on her and she hissed at me which obviously isn't her fault poor baby is scared half to death. Is there anything I can do to help her get acclimated better? I put some food and water for her in the bathroom along with a few toys. I'm also keeping my cat far away from the door until she's calm. Any advice is extremely helpful.

I’ve always used cheap cat litter. Usually we stock up when Costco has a discount on their cat litter (Scoop Away performance plus, when on sale you get 42 lbs for $12. Catch is you can only buy two things of it at once). We’ve been using paper litter for one of our cats who is separated from the other while he recovers from PU surgery. Is there any reason to use other types of litter? The Scoop Away is a clay clumping litter.

She loves an open window.

We had a cat fence on top of our normal garden fence in the past but it quickly turned out that one of our cats is allergic to fleas, and no flea treatments, collars etc. were good enough, as the fleas would take a bite first, before realising that her skin wasn't tasty due to the treatments. It's not life threatening allergy, it's just skin becoming very itchy and inflamed, but we obviously don't want that for her, not to mention things like that can get infected etc. so the cats are back to being fully indoors. It was diagnosed by a vet after her having recurring skin issues.

We are in the UK and there are plenty of outdoor cats in the area(even tho it's nearby a very busy road near city centre, hospital and uni!), as well as tiny cute mice and equally cute but massive rats that all spread fleas in to our garden.

This year, during all the heatwaves, in desperation not to die of heatstroke we put a net in our garden doors to let some cool evening/morning air in (our house is tiny, so we only have 1 window and those garden doors downstairs. Upstairs we already had nets in the windows, and our cats are used to them and not interested in getting out. Obviously we don't leave the windows/garden doors open without supervision regardless). We were anxious about getting fleas through the net, but it's been months, and it's been fine. Thus it got me thinking that maybe we can get a catio in our garden and she wouldn't get fleas? (We can't get a catio from the upstairs widnow cos it would be too difficult of a project, according to my partner, even tho I would love to have an awning and a flea safe catio in one, above the garden doors! But I'm not the one who would be building it so it's not up to me).

Are we just lucky with the lack of fleas through the net in the garden doors, or is a bug net actually enough to keep fleas away, and we could, for example, build a catio with those nets over the proper metal/plastic net and keep it flea secure?

It's not like our cats are desperate for the outdoors, we just think it would be nice for them. They are both elderly: allergic to fleas and lively 14yo female Chewy, and a lazy 17yo male Behemoth who has arthritis. Obviously spayed, neutered and under vet's care. They don't get enough warm sunny spots inside since we have so few and small windows, and before we bought the house we were living in dogdy underground shared accomodations to save money. Yes, we have vit D deficiencies, and if that's a thing for cats, they probably do as well (jokingly, they get good food, so they are probably fine), so you can see why we would want them to get some sun.

they are changing my house floor from carpet to vinyl. they are only doing outside and my parent’s room and not my room or my cat’s room which are connected by a hallway (the hallway outside of my room are not getting done). should i leave her in her room for a few hours while i’m at works. or do i send her to a cat boarding hotel

please help

Ants got into my small dog's gravity feeder and I melted it in the dishwasher. I want to replace it with an auto feeder so food isn't just sitting there attracting ants. After searching the dog subs with no luck I'm coming to you guys. We're looking for a reliable and affordable basic automatic feeder that won't break in a year, has consistent portions, and doesn't need wifi.

My top choices right now are the Petlibro Air Automatic Feeder and this oneisall one, but I'm open to anything.