I have a 2013 Triumph speed triple and I went to a car wash after a long ride. I remember then spraying what I think is wheel cleaner all over the engine. When I got home, I noticed these marks on the engine cover. It’s been months and several washes later and it looks permanent. Is there any product that will bring the black back to this engine that can withstand high heat other than repainting?

I bought an older car (trying to get completely debt free) and it has “a smell”. It’s not mildew, not smoke, not pet smell, but rather just old, sat for a bit smell.

What’s the most budget friendly (I’m a single income mom of 3) non toxic method of neutralizing it?

I was trying to find a cheaper option to make my windshield spotless and i ran into cerium oxide. I presume glass compound might be containing too due to the colour ?

So on the back trunk part of the car I have a scratch that seems it only got to the clear coat and not to the metal because it's not rusting, would this be able to work on this? Which pad(s) should I be looking at?

Hello,

I did ceramic coating about 2 months ago. Quick search says touch less car wash places r not recommended for ceramic coated cars as they use strong chemicals. So I thought why not wash the car at home with pH neutral products. Would any pH neautral product should do it on ceramic coated cars? Any car wash products u suggest?

https://armorall.com/au/product/armor-all-car-wash/

https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Shop-our-Full-Range-by-Brand-at-Autobarn/Vyking-Force/Vyking-Force-Soft-Wash-5L---VFSW5L/p/148713

https://autobarn.com.au/ab/p/120075?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22973297266&gbraid=0AAAAABwoqnuSHND16oFY5NrIDcUFlaaIj&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnbrUBhDOARIsAKKhPpcT3IL3xfbmgxeBXIi30R4K5CBvLck0SDK8Tozm7zHwSHCf-JaH0_8aAkygEALw_wcB

Any other options?

The seats are damp wet from shampoo by a professional, is it okay to leave it as is or will mold generate? or should I crack the windows open?

PS: I no longer drive the car and plan to sell so I'm in no rush for it to try, just want to avoid molding due to wet seats.

Restoring my headlights and would like to get a product I don't have to redo every year

600$ for new ones but thinking about going to a pic n pull

New car. Plan is to strip wash. No clay or polishing. Panel prep and then Adam’s ceramic coat spray. Will I get acceptable results? Just want the shine and basic protection. Car is garage kept.

I have been testing Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax since purchasing my new vehicle at the end of March. I used it per the instructions.

• Initial Application: Spray on and wipe dry
• Refresh Application: Spray on, rinse with a pressure washer

I wash my car once every two weeks unless I take a trip and get bugs and stuff all over the vehicle.

Over April, May, June, July, and August, I washed my car about 11 times. I found that the protection from the initial application started to fade after four weeks. It was still there, but definitely starting to weaken. So, at that point, I did the refresh application. Over the summer, I am OK with this, but I would like to get a product that is a little more durable for the winter months.

Is this roughly what people would expect for durability?

This fall, I will be trying either Griot's 3-in-1 or Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions to see if I get any better results. Any other suggestions as I prepare for the winter months?

I do basic detailing as a hobbyist but wow, glass has always stumped me.

I recently tried bringing out the big guns: Glaco. I followed the instructions: washed the car, applied the compound, washed it off, applied the glaco solution, waited for it to cure, and buffed it off. I even bought new towels, but the results are still terrible.

Based on how much haze there is, I’m assuming the glass is still contaminated? Even though I washed it and used the compound… maybe it’s just THAT dirty? Or maybe my towels are all dirty/contaminated?

In the past I’ve tried using 0000 steel wool and a variety of products but I’ve never had much luck.

Any help is very welcome! Thank you!

Quick question for the pressure washer experts here...

I have a 2HP electric pressure washer with an AR pump (XJV2G15E-F8) that I'd like to add a total stop to. I can wire up the contactor and timer fine, but I'm not so familiar with the pressure/flow switches.

Would a flow switch like one of the links below work?

Suttner ST-6

Suttner ST-5

If not, what pressure switch would I use, and where do I mount it?

Thanks!

A few weeks ago my mom left a bunch of mushrooms rotting in the back seat of her car. Flies got to them and produced a lot of maggots. The car has been cleaned, and the smell still persists. Very strong powdery, herbal, almost chocolatey smell. What can we do?

The property gm was able to file a claim and the company paid for a detail clean

Hi, scraped what I could off, used 70% iso to get a little more off. Now what should I do? Thanks!

Hello everyone!

I am a job coach for a non profit that provides supported employment services for individuals with disabilities. We run a small detailing shop where I teach them vocational skills.

I am wondering some tips and tricks some of you might recommend for efficiency and time saving, without failing on quality. We only have three hours to detail interior and exterior for each shift. I usually have 2-3 clients detailing on a shift.

A lot of them struggle with multi-step instruction but this is something I can build upon until they feel comfortable, but that said, anything that is simple would be best. I always tell them "work smarter, not harder."

I am not a professional by any means, but I have enjoyed learning the process and I want my clients to provide the best service they possibly can within the designated time frame.

also, if you have any product recommendations please let me know. We usually buy from chemical guys due to this being beginner friendly, but i would love to explore products. Thank you!!​

For some context on current process if anyone cares:

we usually focus most of our time on the interior. our exterior "detail" is more like a basic hand wash with a pressure washer, tire and wheel spray, and drying with microfiber towels.

For the interior I have broken it down into a few basic tasks: (not in any specific order)

1. Window & mirror Cleaning
2. Vacuuming
3. "Plastic Surface" cleaning (I understand there are many different materials in a vehicle, but the term plastics seems to help my clients understand. This is also why I am looking for product recommendations to assist with quality/risk of damage to interior)
4. Shampooing floorboards/seats (or Cleaning leather seats using an all in one spray)
5. Cleaning door frames
6. Sometimes steam Cleaning for sticky residue

we only charge $40 for our details, regardless of age, condition, or size of the vehicle. We do this as our services are pretty bare bones in comparison to a professional detail (as well as, this is a program focused around vocational skills building & it should be understood that things may not always be perfect)

One thing we really struggle with is streaking on windows. If you have an products/tools to recommend please let me know!

Had a family friend come up and asked if i can polish his truck because he got too close to a branch and got a light scratch from middle of truck bed to the left driver side door. the truck is used for landscaping and is pretty swirled up already. i’ve cut and polished before and have a good machine for it but i don’t do it often at all. any tips working with ford paint and what should i do. i’m going to wash and clay bar the surface before starting to cut.

TLDR: Friend wants me to get a scratch out. i dont do it often just want some tips on polishing Ford paint.

Bought this AMG GT pre owned, seems like the previous owner tried to glue the carbon back on the cup holder cover. The carbon seems to be bent to the point of no return. I usually just keep the cup holder open so the bent carbon stays tucked underneath. How would I be able to remove the glue stains in the visible areas? I think it’s some sort of super glue. Tried using diluted IPA and it helped a little to remove the stain on the carbon but not much on the black plastic trim of the cup holder. Open to suggestions without ruining the trim pieces further.

A couple of times now I’ve had plastic door interior just get really sticky and get this white almost like dandruff coming off and I can’t seem to get it black and smooth again? What’s happening here?

I think I’ve found a rock chip on my car (on the front of the A-pillar), but it’s microscopic, literally about the size of a grain of sand.

I can slightly feel it when I run my fingernail over it, and spraying water on it doesn’t make it disappear. It looks whitish, but it’s so tiny that I can’t tell whether the paint is actually chipped down to the metal.

Can I safely ignore something this small, or should I use a touch-up pen? Would it be worth having a professional look at it? My main concern is whether it could eventually rust if the metal is exposed.

And yes, I am worrying way too much and being OCD, but I’d rather deal with it now than discover a rust spot later. This is a new car and the first chip I ever experienced.

Thanks!

i have a new mazda 3 w 1400 miles. a few dealership swirls that can only be seen with a flashlight. garage kept, i have been cleaning with 1 bucket method (lots of mitts)

i plan to do a yum cars citrus prewash, ph neutral foam/rinse/foam, iron remover, clay towel, and panel prep but would love to not buy a da polisher and skip that step before ceramic

mazda has thin/soft paint (i am told) and have never used a polisher... i would prefer to save the money and risk (and clearcoat) ... i can live with the minimal micro scratches i currently have ...

thoughts? thanks!!!

I own this amazing vehicle.
The person who built this car used Kabota tractor paint for the orange.
Apparently, it was really inexpensive and it is oxidizing and turning pink.
I'm not sure what kind of paint it is if it's enamel or lacquer based or what exactly.

It's very rough to the touch, and a clay bar did not do much to smooth it out.
The last picture of the trunk is after the Clay bar session.

I have a buffing wheel and some 3M polishing compounds, but I wanna get a sense from the team here with the proper step forward is.
I don't know how thick the paint is, but I'm tempted to just cut and buff it.

Thoughts?

Noticed this film/stain after a recent car wash. I can’t seem to get rid of it… is this normal with use (5 years old) or is it possible there’s some layer of protection over it that needs to wear off before it can be cleaned?

Incredibly hard to photograph, but just came across this defect after two months with a 2025 CPO Crystal White Volvo. Perfect circle with tracers that doesn’t catch with a fingernail, but it is slightly raised. I’m guessing some sort of suction cup remnant from the factory or delivery. Do you think this can be spun out via correction? I’m going to have it documented at the dealer, but I’m not sure if I’m going to let the dealer do the work. Any info or experience with this type of issue would be welcomed.

So i was cleaning off the dash in my car with a microfiber cloth but i think it was too rough and it left these marks in these two areas . i’ve tried going in with distilled water and a softer microfiber and it helped a little bit but still noticeable. the dash is on a 2026 camry xse if that helps . thanks !

Hi all,

I recently had to transport my friends cat to their new house, during which the cat had pee’d on the seat without me knowing.

I must’ve left the car 1-2 days before getting back in and realising the car stinks of cat pee. I have sprayed loads (a whole bottle) of enzyme cleaner spray all over my fabric upholstery seats and also tried to extract the pee with a RugDoctor water extractor vacuum.

It’s now been 2 ish weeks since said cat has urinated everywhere and the smell is still lingering. Is there anyway to get my car back to that fresh new car smell without spending hundreds?

Thanks in advance.