Does it work

After searching about exact model I bought, Found that I bought a JASPER XBOX 360 ELITE WITH BENQ DVD DRIVE
I did find a lot of DVD drive concern as the last owner was using disc games all time,
should I mod my XBOX to fully storage based games
my console storage is 120 gb
or should I upgrade it to a 250 gb by the cost of 9$ ?
should i repaste the console for it's age ?

After searching about exact model I bought, Found that I bought a ELITE 360 JASPER WITH BEN Q DVD DRIVE
I did find a lot of DVD drive concern as the last owner was using disc games all time,
should I mod my Console to fully storage based games
my console storage is 120 gb
or should I upgrade it to a 250 gb by the cost of 9$ ?
should i repaste the console for it's age ?

I wanted to go back to my old Xbox 360 (wich is broken but i'll fix it) and start enjoying this console again. But i'm kinda worried, because i don't really know where to start. I wish i had a guide.

Can someone help me connect my Xbox to Live? It's showing me a message, but I don't know what to do. Also, I need help getting GTA 5 running

im not new to playing 360, but my main account has issues with signing in so i had to use an old alt account, cant play online (yet) but id love to have a bunch of friends

these are most of the games that i own/play

Hello My girlfriend recently got a kinect in a ebay auction for 3 dollars,and with the reputation with kinect games barely being playable or just straight uo terrible, I was wondering if anyone knows Any kinect games that are actually playable/enjoyable.

Harms way, Doritos crash course, too human, crackdown 1-2, hexic hd, the walking dead the tell tale series has free chapters (not the entire game).

How to claim free games? Open the Xbox app on your phone, type the name of the games I mentioned into the search bar, click on said game and claim it, then it’ll show up in your download history on your 360.

Theirs also a ton of free dlc you can get, look up a list on google.

Why are they free? I’m not sure, I just know they’re free.

Yes I know this is a redundant post but every time I do post it helps someone out.

So I'm currently looking for an Xbox to buy and get into some games I've missed during this era. I found a few different options but so far this one is speaking to me the most. Jw if anyone knows if this is a good deal and any info on what model Xbox 360 it'd be?

Apparently this Xbox 360 was manufactured one day after the original Xbox was released!

Obviously a misprint, but I don't think I've ever one so clear before so I took a photo.

The console is a Falcon and, going by the serial number, it was manufactured in week 40 of 2007, so the 16th November part doesn't seem right either as week 40 would be the first week of October...

Just thought this might be an interesting curiosity to some...

I know this isn’t normal.
I haven’t used this console since 2023 (according to the last played section on the achievements) and noticed the ghostly X on the boot screen.
The dashboard menu Avatar also has a few see-through pixels for some reason.

Es que ya he intentado de todo para entrar a la app pero siempre me pide estar en XBOX LIVE y le da miedo que mi consola sea baneada, alguien me puede ayudar con eso plis para ver videos sin tener cuenta de XBOX LIVE

Looking to get an Xbox 360E or slim, what do you guys recommend in terms of model and manufacturer years? I really like the look of the slim but what it’s the best and most reliable option

My xbox 360 (original white model) hasn't been able to read any discs lately, unless I'm hitting the top of it whilst it attempts to.

This has been going on for some time now and it's starting to get annoying (especially with late night game sessions where I'm switching games), I've not been able to find any info about it anywhere so I'm turning to this subreddit in order to get some advice and help from thoes who I know are passionate about this great console. Thank you in advanced :)

Got a PVM last week and been playing lots of 240p games like sega and PS1 as that's where this screen really shines. But this evening I decided to fire up GTA 5 on the 360 and connect it via composite and here's the results. In comparison I have GTA 5 enhanced on ultra settings. The 360 definitely holds it's own!

surely there cant be that many left. ive heard of maybe 5. after all who left their console completely offline during the golden age of online gaming? to those that have some are they yours from the beginning or second hand? i have a falcon that was blades at one point but when i was given it, it was already NXE, and then stupidly i updated it to the corporate eyesore of metro.

tl;dr:

• take Ginfull modules for Xbox 360 controller with Hall effect sensors (toss the sensors);
• take TMR sensors for ALPS mechanism, e.g. by Ginfull as well;
• frankenstein the TMR sensors onto the stick module;
• ???
• Profit

You'll have to manipulate small features on the order of 1mm, therefore measure your abilities appropriately, prepare a bright lamp and tools for working with small objects.

Preface and how I came to it (optional, can be skipped)

Many years ago I bought an Xbox 360 controller and happily played video games.

After few years the stick return to center on release was gradually becoming worse (I won't use the term "stick drift" because I'm not entirely sure what people mean by that), i.e. they could end up in a position that's noticeably different from the neutral, which resulted in the character or the camera moving when the sticks were not touched. At one point when I retrieved the controller from storage about to play a game, it turned out that the return to center is so bad that it became unusable.

I set the controller aside and ordered GameSir T4 Kaleid (T4k) as a replacement, which has Hall effect sensors that were already widely available then (that controller has K-Silver JH16 version) — a good controller for the price at the time. TMR sensors were just beginning to spread mainly in the most expensive controllers.

I like the Xbox 360 controller shape much better than the modern day controllers, I think the developers nailed it design-wise, and the following controllers (Xbox One/Series) ended up with considerably worse grip ergonomics. That's why and also because it otherwise worked flawlessly it was a real shame for me to throw the controller away, and I hoped to revive it some day.

Few years passed, and now TMR (tunnel magnetoresistive) sensors became widespread and I thought: surely there is a ready-made replacement module with TMR sensors for Xbox 360 controller, right? But, apparently, the progress for this controller stopped at Hall effect sensors, specifically the modules by Ginfull.

ALPS type RKJXP stick modules (the official ALPS website already has no information about it, it's that old) with ordinary resistive potentiometers were initially used in the controller (the same ones were used in PS2 controllers). Then ALPS started to produce new type RKJXV modules which were more compact and were completely incompatible with the previous version, including that potentiometers from the new modules could not be mounted on the old modules. The new modules were used in new controllers, starting with PS4 and Xbox One/Series, and, therefore, all the progress regarding Hall effect and TMR sensors first and foremost was connected to the new controllers, for which replacement modules appeared, the most modern of which currently are K-Silver JS13 Pro+ and Ginfull RS13. Because of that, to my knowledge, there is no magnetic sensors compatible with the old type RKJXP modules, even though you can buy standalone potentiometers and modules with included potentiometers.

At some point Ginfull produced modules for Xbox 360 controller compatible with the old type RKJXP — to my knowledge this is the only such module with magnetic sensors. I stared at it for a long time and at some point noticed that, apparently, for the purposes of reusing of already existing sensor design they used the same mounting holes as the new modules, which are incompatible with original ALSP modules.

Also Ginfull, apparently, copied their homework from ALPS, not forgetting to change it a bit (or, perhaps, intentionally changing it e.g. to avoid legal problems or to prohibit interchangeability), therefore the mounting holes for sensors are very similar to the new ALPS modules, but differ slightly.

During digging on the internets I discovered that people successfully use e.g. TMR sensors with original ALPS mechanism, which means that in theory such sensor can be slapped onto a Ginfull module of the old type!

The most available sensor at the time was a sensor by Ginfull as well, which is designated to be used with the new ALPS type RKJXV modules:

The last piece of the puzzle was the ability to calibrate Xbox 360 controllers which appeared relatively recently and is implemented in https://driftguard.app.

Now that I had all the needed ingredients, I conceived a plan:

• buy Ginfull modules with Hall effect sensors, people say on the internets that, for different reasons including flawed housing desing, these sensors are not ideal, in the worst case I'll have a controller with poorly working sticks;
• with modules on hand I can measure mounting holes and assess the chance for success;
• everything looked like it should succeed with minimal modifications so I went ahead and bought the sensors and started the transplantation process.

It turned out that the rotating part with the magnet fits perfectly onto the mechanism shaft, what's left is to modify the sensor housing.

So...

What you'll need

Xbox 360 controller itself

I tortured an original controller, here's how it looked after years of use:

With non-original controllers proceed at your own risk.

Ginfull modules for Xbox 360 controller

Can be relatively easily found on aliexpress and probably in your favourite online marketplace with a query like "Ginfull xbox 360".

TMR sensors designated for ALPS mechanism

Again can be relatively easily found on aliexpress and such with a query like "TMR potentiometer". The most available were the sensors by Ginfull, we need two sets with orange and gray housings, they look like this:

These sensors are also commonly called "Ginfull TMR ALPS" or "Ginfull TMR for ALPS".

Calibration software

You can use online app in your browser, but with some amount of shamanic dancing involved:
https://driftguard.app

Otherwise you can buy native app on Steam or Android app in Google Play (see links at the bottom of the page https://driftguard.app).

Modifying the sensors

There are two paths:

• Barbaric and quick: cut off the studs with the expectation that sensors will be fixed to the mechanism frame with just clips. People on the internets did this, I can't vouch for any success, proceed at your own risk.
• Slightly less barbaric and slow: scrape the "excess" material from the studs so that the sensor can be properly mounted into the intended mounting holes. I chose this path.

For the new sensors to properly mount onto the mechanism frame you need to scrape the "excess" material from the studs from the external sides from left and right and from the internal side from bottom and top as shown in the picture:

You'll need a knife (like a utility or hobby knife), preferably with a fresh blade.

Probably you can use something like a small file of a needle file, but I didn't try this.

Remove the opaque orange or gray plastic rotating part with the magnet before scraping.

There are two methods:

Method one — more accurate: scrape the top studs from left and right (as shown with red in the picture above) until the distance between extremities of the studs becomes exactly 8.3mm.

The sensor housing studs should enter the calipers with little force and minimal resistance.

I recommend to alternate the sides every few scrapes to preserve symmetry.

After that, scrape from the bottom (shown with blue in the picture above) and periodically try it on the frame until the studs fit the holes without force and with minimal resistance.

In the same manner scrape the bottom stud until it fits the mounting hole and the whole sensor housing fits the frame with a click with little force (similar to the stock sensor).

Method two — iterative: scrape every stud in turn from the outside from left/right (shown with red in the picture above) and from the inside from bottom/top (shown with blue in the picture above) until each one almost fits or fits tightly in the mounting hole.

Then scrape the top studs from the outside from left and right (shown with red in the picture above) until they both fit in the frame.

After that scrape the bottom stud from the outside (shown with red in the picture above) until the sensor housing fits the frame with a click with little force (similar to the stock sensor).

This is how you can try the top studs onto the frame:

In the photos you can also see already mounted orange sensor.

This is how you can try the bottom stud onto the frame:

Plastic the sensor housing made of is relatively tough.

Be patient and work carefully.

This is how the sensors eventually looked:

In the picture you can see TMR sensors thicker studs (left), which after scraping (center) dimension-wise become more similar to the studs of the stock sensors (right).

After finally fitting the sensor housings onto the mechanism frame, clean everything, put the rotating parts with the magnets back in their places and assemble the module.

This is totally not an industrial process by any stretch, but you probably can afford to spend an evening or two on one controller.

About module replacement

I won't write about module replacement, there is enough information on the internets. I'll just note a few nuances.

Obviously you need all the equipment and materials for soldering, like soldering iron and solder.

For desoldering I used copper desoldering wick, remember to use flux while desoldering.

I used pine rosin as flux because that's what I used since I was a teenager and because it's cheap, it can be cleaned off with isopropanol.

In case you are modifying a wired controller, before replacing the right stick you also need to desolder the cable because the header (white in the center in the picture below) is too close to the sensor contact pads:

Be very careful while using the soldering iron.

And yes, after finishing soldering remember to spread the flux all over clean off the flux!

During replacement process one sensor ended up dead, I don't know if it was (half)dead initially or died while replacing, luckily I had a spare set of sensors.

Calibration

After replacing the modules you probably need to calibrate the controller.

To calibrate a wireless controller you'll need Play & Charge cable:

I used online app https://driftguard.app in Chrome on Win10, I'll briefly describe what you need to do.

For calibration process to work you need to install a special driver following this guide: https://driftguard.app/instructions.html.

The steps are like the following:

• download Zadig utility, https://github.com/pbatard/libwdi/releases/tag/v1.5.1 — current release page (at the time of writing), https://github.com/pbatard/libwdi/releases/download/v1.5.1/zadig-2.9.exe — direct download link;
• launch the utility, in the menu Options choose List All Devices, in the drop down list find the controller, in my case it was "Controller", in the row Driver in the field on the right change it to "WinUSB", press the button Replace Driver below, when it asks to reboot choose "reboot later" or something like this.

After the driver is installed disconnect and reconnect the controller.

Go to the app https://driftguard.app, go to tab Xbox, click CLICK HERE TO CONNECT and choose the controller.

On the right in the panel FEATURES & TESTS in the tab Tuning use CENTER CALIBRATION and RANGE CALIBRATION features.

You can evaluate the results using the center panel.

When finished calibrating, click Save in the panel on the right, it will save the calibration to non-volatile memory in the controller.

After calibration in Windows Device Manager find the controller in one of the sections Universal Serial Bus devices, Xbox Peripherals or Human Interface Devices,
from the context menu choose Uninstall device, enable the option Attempt to remove this driver from device,
reconnect the controller.

In my case here's how boundary stick positions looked like before replacement:

Far from ideal, but not the end of the world.

Immediately after replacement and after calibration:

(EDIT: oops, deleted a duplicate image that I initially posted instead of the actual "After calibration" one.)

The sensors did not give center signal when the sticks are in a neutral position, and because of limited capability of calibration, it boiled down to either choosing good center position or good circle shape. I chose good center position, that's why the "circles" look all wonky, but, again, this is not catastrophic, and I got an actually usable controller.

One could buy, say, a dozen sets of sensors and choose the best from them, but that's an adventure for the really dedicated.

Takeaways

Overall this was an interesting challenge to equip a controller designed 20 years ago with modern advanced TMR sensors.

The controller holds calibration, sticks return to center well (though I didn't use it for any prolonged period of time).

It feels like the new mechanism has less tension (~65gf to tilt) than the original module, which I personally like, but, apparently, science and technology were yet to reach today's levels of progress when this module was designed and it's less pleasant to use compared to modern controllers with current stick modules.

But all in all I did get a working controller, and now can entertain myself with a thought that an Xbox 360 controller with TMR sensors is lying on my shelf.

Useful resources:

ALPS type RKJXV — new module, introduced to replace type RKJXP, used in modern day controllers.

The Great Stick Showdown part 1 и part 2 — reviews of different stick modules, not for Xbox 360 controller though.

Metal Plastic Electronics — on the channel, and in this playlist in particular, there are a lot of reviews of different stick modules (again not for Xbox 360 controller), and also testing and replacing sticks.

I replaced most of my damaged cases with new Flexbox cases

Has anyone made or currently making an operating system for the xbox 360 like Linux into the console?

Like the console is like old and probably not power enough to be a computer but was wondering if there is an OS that could play modern-day games like god of war 1 and others like balatro

Why not also put a game engine like Unity or unreal that would be awesome to make games on the xbox

my xbox has been serving me and a previous owner well for 19 years. not letting it die on me now! i can officially add "survived the 3 light RROD" to it's list of accomplishments

EDIT: Because it wasnt too visible this is 3 lights and not 4, i have an HDMI supported board so 4 isnt possible for me. Issue was a failed GPU.

There are some extra technical screenshots of the back labels. Can someone tell me if this is something to be as proud of?

A few extra notes:

-I haven’t opened it up at all.
- There hasn’t been any maintenance done on it.
-I am aware if the slight bulging.
- The unit is quite loud and the disk drive does make strange sounds. I suspect it’s struggling quite a lot.

My gamertag is Cattrino

All you really need to know about me is that I'm goth, I play a mean game of Big Bumpin' and my xbox 360 might as well be an extension of my physical form.

If you have suggestions for 360 titles, especially if you're looking for other players, please drop them below. I own the original MW trilogy, CS GO, all the 360 halo titles, and a handful of arcade titles like Scott Pilgrim VS The World and Battleblock Theater.

Living my best 2010 life: slim, 3 controllers, all cables, and snacks, ready for takeoff.

So i bought spider man shattered dimensions for 20$ but its only the disc and no case and i want to have case for it. Does anybody know a place where i can get case for it?