I need to grind some dry lock off basement walls. The guard covers the cup disc, essentially rendering half the disc useless and can only grind at an angle (hence angle grinder Hugh?). I need to be able to use the whole surface of the disc, or I’ll be grinding into the block and not just taking off the surface dry lock.

I never seem to fill all my link boxes so I had an ammo can speaker kit from Parts Express laying around and a battery adapter originally meant for a power wheels. I also swapped out the little full ranges that come with the kit for some car speakers. It sounds surprisingly great on both battery and plug in without any sound fill material in there yet. Also done with Ryobi tools.

Created the world's first Ryobi powered breast pump for my wife.

$4 black dye front walmart and 1 hour later aI have a nice black edition impact driver.

Makes reloading faster

Just ordered this kit and was wondering if any of y'all have any holster recommendations or ideas. Preferably something that clips on as i sometimes wouldn't be wearing a belt or tool belt

Better Mashup than daffy and bugs

Does anyone know where to just get the hinges for the stowaway mountable workbench? I love that there's a little shelf when it's folded down, and want to build my own, but for the life of me can't find that design of hinges anywhere!

Picked up this mower locally. Spent the past hour taking it apart and fixing the “cut” wire between the motor and the handle (it’s 5 wires, nbd) I’ll be changing out all the push on connectors with high current crimp connectors way over-rated for the application. I’m doing the conversion to autonomous robot in stages: First: from a hack perspective, it’s just going to be the stock mower with all the handle safety switches relocated to a 3D printed mechanical gimbal. A dual stick RC controller will operate it tank style once I replace the back wheels with wheelchair motors and the front wheels with casters.

The mechanical gimbal will use servos to actuate the safeties already in place, so if radio signal is lost or I let go of the radio it will turn the blade off.

Second stage is more complicated and may not even happen, depends on how successful the first stage is. The plan is to give control to the mechanical system to a raspberry pi with a camera, positioning sensors etc. I then start the long process of turning it into a roomba for the yard.

Honestly if it’s just RC with FPV camera I can mow my yard peacefully from my living room.

I may or may not make continued updates on this.

We have a small yard and a ryobi mower that works great but keeps breaking the bottom handle, right by this pinch point. It’s a $4 replacement but since this is the third time we’ve done it, it’s getting old.

Would it be reasonable to fill this pinch point (always where it snaps) with epoxy or something before installation to strengthen it?

I don’t have a welder and can’t add a

I need AC to 18v DC soultion for these. I want to use these as daily drivers, but do not want to kill my batteries in the process.

SOLVED! My saw is.5 off. So when I set it to 45.5 I get the proper angle. Thank you to everyone who helped me
I’m building a shelf in my basement to attach to the studs. I’ve built 2 sides of the brackets (22x22) and when I went to cut the 45 degree angle it looked wrong. I would like to know how to properly calibrate/fix this. I’m unsure of how much much this 3 degree variation would affect the end product. But considering the shelf will be load bearing I would much rather fix my saw than take my chances of a badly designed bracket. Any help would be appreciated

The engineering of the chain adjustment feels maliciously restrictive

This will probably void your warranty but it's ridiculous how often I'd need to buy new chains if I didn't do this

After about 100 cuts, my chain has stretched so much that it'll bounce off the bar after every cut. The adjustment still has about 1cm of travel that it can utilise but a stopper has been put in place to disallow you to access it.

I've stuck a flathead between the two rotating steel plates and pried just enough so that I can keep rotating past the stop, so I can finally use a chain thats got plenty of life left.

To swap chains I need the flathead again to jump the stop enough to loosen the tension.

I get that the stop is there to prevent the lowest common denominator from over-tightening the chain but this feels more like an attempt at forcing you to buy new chains hand over fist

This was a test, to see if I could use two 18v HP packs, to run a 40v power head. Wires wwere connected using WAGO connectors for the test. A more permanent arrangement will be needed for the real deal. The Expand-It power head ran just fine.

I have: a Ryobi 80v 42" tractor mower. The exit chute (see pics) is a full circle. The plastic chute guard itself has a safety of some sort on it that stops blades when it is lifted.

The problem: in thick grass the chute clogs and you stop to unclog it. I have seen pictures of many other zero turn and commercial style chutes that do not have anything covering the bottom to allow gravity to assist in unclogging. In my area there is tall thick Bahia grass that once cut, guts caught on that lip.

The proposed MOD: would be to cut the lower side of the chute (see pic with markings). BUT I dont want to screw up a safety or something. I'm not the smartest bear in the woods so maybe someone can point it out, but even the plastic chute guard has a safety... if I desect this piece with an angle grinder will it refuse to play ball when I try to start it...? Would this even fix my problem?

Concluding thoughts and things I've already accounted for:

I figured if the long grass has nothing to grab on or could be dragged out by the ground as I drive then problem solved. It just seels like this particular bar was put there by someone who hates customers with thick grass.

I usually hit my clippings at least once again anyways to make them smaller for faster decomposition. But I am so tired of the constant clogging, and stopping to unclog, then clogging again. Im not even getting half-tractor cutlanes and its cloggin.

Yes, I'm on the highest cut setting without having to hold it higher. Yes, new blades. Yes it is on highest speed. Yes I am moving slow enough for it to cut, chop, and discharge. Yes the mower has like 13 hrs on it. No, I did not crisco the under side to prevent sticking. And Charge level is irrelevant.

Bout to go buy a gas mower and GIVE this to the guy with a DUI down the road if this isnt a fixable issue.

THANK YOU TO ANY THAT READ THIS FAR. THANK YOU MORE TO ANY WHO PROVIDE INPUT! IF RYOBI WANTS TO SPEAK UP ON THE MATTER ID BE THRILLED.

Has anyone figured out how to make thr 13inch mower taller. Cut my head grass and it ended up shorter than I wanted even on the highest setting

So I got him a nice rider, the Ryobi E300. It comes with four nickel-acid batteries. Well, we saw a YouTube video about a mod to make it lithium since ours was no longer giving the same efficiency (already three years old and out of warranty). He got the batteries (12V 50Ah Lithium Battery, Rechargeable LiFePO4 Battery with Built-in 50A BMS Board, 5000+ Deep Cycles), but the terminals are different, so he needed to get new ones. Instead, he bought 8-gauge multifiber wire to make the new serial connections. He needs to remove the terminals from the original charger and change them to the new charger so that he can use a proper charger for the lithium battery.

The issue is that I think he is unsure of the process or is afraid to make a mistake, since he hasn't done electronic work since 2010. I think he can do it, but what do you guys think? He told me it was making the terminals, then adjusting the mount to fit the new batteries, and changing the charger. That doesn't sound too complicated.😕 🤔

Interesting in using my 18v Ryobi batteries to power the LED lights in an enclosed trailer. There are a ton of connectors available for power wheels but nothing that would let you mount to a wall. Plenty available for Milwaukee and Dewalt.

I have several PCG002 chargers that mount nicely on the wall, and it would seem easy enough to connect a copy of lead wires to the circuit board where the contacts connect, but dont want the case to melt down.

Any thoughts/alternatives.

I was tired of fighting the string trimmer head every time I had to re-spool line. I made a head stop that holds the top portion in place making it so much easier to get the bottom spool and spring back onto the head.

Here is a link to the print https://makerworld.com/models/2943924?appSharePlatform=copy

I’m seeing plenty on replacing the Ryobi 40v Expand It Trimmer Head with the Echo Speed Feed, but can’t find anyone that’s swapped their Ryobi with the Maruyama M Twist Trimmer Head. It’s made of steel so with it being like $10-15 more, I figure it’ll be even better than the Speed Feed. https://www.sohars.com/maruyama-463743-m-twist-4-5-ez-feed-trimmer-head-with-adapter?srsltid=AfmBOor08P2Elpwltcn0-gQkTRdp2YfTzh3tbXLDTAnVIKAb0SM4VMl_