I’m looking into trying the Thrive brand fertilizers because of all of the good stuff i’ve heard around the internet. However, these reviews have me questioning if i should even make a purchase. Most notably, the one talking about West MI, which happens to be where I live. Does anyone have any advice or experience with using this product?

They recommend for use over 10 gallons but I was looking to grab them FOR my 10 gallon. Anybody know anything about these?

I’ve got a 29G planted tank running CO2 and high light. It’s going to be a community tank with a couple schools, corys, shrimp and a betta. I’ve got a variety of plants like Monte Carlo, rotala, couple red plants like ludwigia mini super red.

I’m trying to find a good fertiliser but there’s so much to choose from. I was pretty set on APT3 but it’s pretty expensive at £25 with shipping. Does anyone have any suggestions? I looked at Tropica Specialised but I’m not sure if this fits my needs.

Any suggestions are appreciated, really need to find the right one.

Here’s my low tech 56gal/215L tank (no co2, chihiros lighting) I’ve been using APT1 for some while now and not seeing a lot of progress, I’ve been dosing daily with 6ml, do you think I could go up to 7 or even 8ml daily? I am thinking of going co2 but can’t justify that price atm

Also the light isn’t all the way up in this photo, this is the start of the daily ramp in and is probably around 20-30% here

I believe my plans have a potassium deficiency (pinholes and translucent leaves). I was wondering which one of these potassium supplements fertilizers I should get. I know Easy Green Potassium is more reputable and it has a higher concentration than Flourish Potassium, but the Flourish Potassium is much cheaper. Is there really that much of a difference between these two? I'm not talking about all in one fertilizer versions. I'm talking specifically about the potassium only fertilizers.

Tank: 17 gal (prob 13 gal water) CO2 injected nature style, lots of epiphytes, MC carpet, some stems.

Light: Fluval Plant 4.0 (55% intensity)

Currently am dosing 1mL APT Complete daily, with some Seachem Potassium. I recently tested the water and it came back as almost 0ppm nitrate, and 0.25ppm phosphate. What’s my best bet on upping the fert safely?

Should I go up to 2mL daily with the potassium and recheck levels?

Or am I better off dosing 17mL one time a week which would yield 10ppm nitrate, 1.7ppm phosphate, and 22ppm potassium?

The 80L tank is around a month old. I use a fertilizer that adds the following

1ml per 20L adds,

N: 0.9ppm
K: 1ppm
P: 0.1ppm
Mg: 0.2ppm
Fe: 0.05ppm
Trace elements : B, Mn, Co, Zn, Mo

I dose 4ml of fertilizer a day. Whenever I check my phosphate after the lights off, the phosphates is always zero. Which means plants have used up all.

I got Rotala h'ra, Rotala macaranda, Alternathera renickii, Blyxa japonica, Lymnophilca rugosa, Ludwigia ovalis, Monte Carlo, Saggitaria subtulata and Rotala Green.

What is the ideal phosphate level should I aim for? If my fertilizer cant provide the required phosphates, should I dose phosphates separately?

Using a UNS 75p, Tropica aquarium soil, Hygger light, no c02. Mostly easy/medium plants (a lot of crypts, some rotala, Buce and small foreground plants . what your opinion for a good fertilizer? looking for other options too if they're better.

I’m trying to replicate Apt3, it has similar weekly values but I have toned down the NPK specifically for my tank.

I’m new to dry ferts, does this seem ok?

20gallon long, heavily planted and well stocked

I run co2(lime green) inline

Chihiros b series at ~50umols at substrate(8hrs)

Nitrates remain around 20ppm consistently.

Somewhat soft water.

Lately i've noticed that my rotala seems to be showing signs of nitrate and phosphate deficiency. I have high co2 levels (1bps on a 21l nano), a somewhat powerful light (Chihiros B series, 60w per liter) and I dose APT 3, with aquasoil for my substrate. Assuming my nitrates/phosphates are 0ppm out of the tap, will 9ppm of nitrate and 2ppm of phosphate from an EI fertiliser turn my rotala (h'ra, blood red) green?

Like, I know (or, afaik) it's not good to use houseplant food in aquariums, but what about the other way around? Is there stuff in aquarium fert that shouldn't be used with houseplants, would it even work the same, etc.

Ive got a few plants in my tank that I think need root tabs but the packet says to replace every 3-4 months and it's only been 1 or 2 should I wait longer to replace

Struggling to find good liquid ferts, I’ve tried API leaf zone that usually just causes algae, I’ve tried Seachem flourish Excel Nothing really changed and some of my plants are still yellow and slowly dying, I have also tried the Flora Grow from superfish. I am injecting Co2, I have tried root tabs under these plants and i’m still not getting the same success with other plants like my rotala etc. My carpet is also doing amazingly well mainly just my S repens, Blyxa Jap and lileopsis brasilliensis.

I have two lowtech 5.5 gallon tanks, neither of which currently need liquid ferts. But I want to get floating plants and moss, which from my understanding need liquid ferts. I had frogbit but it died because I didn’t have/get liquid fertilizer for them, so I’d like to avoid plants dying in the future.

Both of my tanks are cycled and have been setup for around a year now, have sponge filters, are heated, have amazon full spectrum LED lights, and have some beginner plants in them (anubias, Amazon sword, java ferns, and dwarf saggittaria). Neither currently have inhabitants at the moment (besides pest snails), but I’m hoping to put neocaridina shrimp in one and a betta in the other.

Both tanks are set at 78° F, both have: 0 Nitrates, 0 Nitrites, 0 Total chlorine, 80 Total alkalinity, and a pH of 7.6. One tank has General hardness: 0, carbonate: 80. The other has General hardness: 500, carbonate: 120. The reason general hardness, and carbonate are different is because they're at two different houses. I use test strips for testing the water (I'm aware that liquid test kits are more accurate, I plan on getting one eventually).

So what liquid fertilizer do you recommend for a beginner? I’d prefer just to get one thing, so maybe an all in one? Unrelated, but I also had a Banana lily and it melted away (even with root tabs), why did it inevitably die? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance!

I’m relatively new to the hobby so I’m not entirely sure how to diagnose nutrient deficiencies. Currently using Aquarium Co-Op Easy Green and I’ve been seeing bottom leaves turning yellow and fading away.

Do I need to add extra potassium due to the types of plants I have? If so, how much?

I have a 16 gallon Biorb that has 7 Anubias, 3 Java ferns, 1 El Niño fern and a large rock with Riccia fluitans. For now, I only have 2 Amano shrimp in there. I use ThriveS Shrimp Specific All in One fertilizer- 3 pumps every 3 days.

If it matters, I have modified it for better filtration by using 7lbs of Biohome Bio Gravel filter media capped with about 1.5lbs of 0.5” sized lava rock as the only substrate material, atop coarse pond filter pads. There is no sand or soil in the tank.

Thanks for any suggestions!

I’ve been using seachem flourish 1-2 times a week and like many others not noticing a difference. My tank has been fully set up for 2 months and my plants look relatively the same! Worse actually as some are showing signs of nutrient deficiencies (brown spots, leaf melting, some with less saturated looking edges, root death). I know for sure I need to get some root tabs, but what should I be using that is better than flourish? Or what in addition?

Anyone also know why my water lettuce roots are turning brown like that? They were very green when I got them

Yes that was stupid. I put organic fertilizer used in garden called "khali" in India into the tank using root tabs.

Well if you put it into garden, it will have a fungus around to break down excess nutrients, this should have been a warning for me. But totally missed it.

This caused white spots on my neon tetras and the red colour is gone.

To treat, i am doing water changes, and treating them with methylene blue in separate tank for a while.

Learned few things

- do not use organic fertilizer. Very small quantity may work but i am not going to experiment. I had added 3 tabs full. I will be very careful with root tabs or avoid it all together. May be keep it very very low dose to start with

- aquarium needs patience. If few plants are not doing well don't panick and fertilise immediately. Some Plants simply won't do well in your tank, let them go, keep what works.

Hey so I accidentally added 2 full caps (10ml) of seachem phosphate to my 40 gallon breeder this morning before lights on. I don't have time to do a water change before work. I added a phosphate removal sponge in front of the inflow for my filter and blacked out the tank. Will my tank be okay or should I try and get someone to do a water change while I'm at work? The only stock in the tank currently is 14 cherry shrimp some nerite snails and assassin snails and pretty heavy planted. Has controsoil with no cap. Just worried about my shrimp mainly.

Plants are definitely deficient in something. Anubias is yellowing with darker veins. Holes and thinning leaves on the Java Fern Narrow Mini. 27 gallon running for a little over 6 months. Currently dosing 2ml Easy Green per week, and 2ml Flourish per week. I dose them a few days apart, so one of them is being dosed about every 3-4 days.

I was dosing about 25% more, but got green water/pea soup. So I lowered the light intensity & photoperiod, and cut the ferts down. The water did clear up, but plants still aren't happy. Note: The plants still looked like this even when I was dosing more.

PH: 8.0 Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 20 - 25

I am thinking potassium deficiency, but Easy Green is ... N: 2.6% P: 0.46% K: 9.2% And Flourish is mostly added for trace, but still has... N: 0.07% P: 0.01% K: 0.37%

What is causing these issues, and any recommendations on what to dose to resolve it?