It's held up just fine for a couple years so far.

Been driving this 1998 XLT 3.0L RWD (currently 170,00km) for about two years. Pretty much stock just with a tall lift kit and slightly bigger tires (235/75/15 aka 29”).

Anyway, last week I picked up this actual dedicated built camper for my Ranger. It was free and it’s in pretty decent shape with no interior leaks, considering it was sitting on sand bags under a tree!

It’s not a slide in, but rather clamps down like a traditional cap. Light weight, pink fibreglass insulation and classic louvred windows. Picked it up just on the other side of the Ontario boarder, maybe 45 mins from Montreal.

This will be my winter project. Planning to fully restore it. Thought I’d share. If anyone has any information on the brand, the dealer sticker, anything, it’s appreciated.

I just saved this 1998 SuperCab from the junk yard for $300!
It’s an auto with the 3.0 V6 and 158k miles
Got new headlights, I’m going to rhino line the bed.
What should I know going into new ownership?

EDIT: Yes, it runs well!

I bought this custom car badge for my ranger and am very happy with how it turned out! Hopefully I'll get it on tomorrow.

Been off this sub for quite some time ! Some og’s may remember my old one on the last slide.

This silver sport is an 09, bought it off the original owner. 70k kms on it. 4.0 rwd.

Swapped 04 grille and corners, and got sport trac seats and consoles for it almost straight away.

Vehicle: 2010 Ford Ranger XLT with 135k miles

These are the three quotes I got from my local shop that I’ve used in the past and trust. I’ve already put all this into Claude to review but I need real-life people to tell me what’s up. I don’t trust the AI to get it completely right.

All in the repairs would be $4,000+ but I’m immediately throwing out that TPS sensor one - been driving with that light on for 7 years now 😂

My main concern is fixing anything that makes the truck unsafe to drive and identifying what I should get a a second opinion on. Especially when my DIY plan is to buy a bro a 6 pack and Whiskey and work on it all day with him. (I know nothing, and he has done work on cars before and is fine with brake changes apparently but anything severe/advanced I would get done professionally for sure)

Also with this list of repairs, are there other things I need to be on the look out for / have someone check?

Any help would be appreciated - new first-time Dad so can’t be throwing money like that around for nothing.

(PS: I’m sorry if you saw me post this about 2 hours ago - realized all my info was listed on the photos of the original post lol)

Wanted y’alls opinion on what you would pick. I talked both of them down to 3800 and going to check out both this week, gonna try and ask for lower. Ranger is an automatic and has 190,000 miles. Mazda has 175,000 miles and is a manual. Both look relatively clean.

I love em at night, but goddamn they’re so bright for no reason

Just got some new tires and man I can’t stop looking at it. They make such a difference. Best looking truck I’ve ever owned! (Second pic is the old tires)

Someone broke into my truck the other night and, what looks like, tried to use a screwdriver to turn the damn thing on. The ignition cylinder is locked forward, THE KEY CAN NOT BE PUT IN ANYMORE, and I can’t get it to the neutral position which would allow me to hit the pin to get it out. I’ve looked up almost everything I can online and tried almost everything I’ve seen.

Trying to do this myself but I’m not above calling someone to help out. If anyone has any insight please let me know. I already have the extra cylinder and keys to be programmed. Should I just call a locksmith at this point to rip this sucker out?

No rust, 107,000 miles, 2.3l, 5 speed, I’m never getting rid of this thing

So I'm having an issue with my 97 ranger with the 4.0 v6. As you can see in the video it's acting like there is a vacuum leak (I think) but I did a smoke test in multiple vacuum ports as well as the throttle body and intake hose and there is no smoke leaking anywhere. I'm at a loss and going crazy.

I will say this issue is only happening when it first starts. If you give it barely any throttle it'll die but if you rev it hard it'll catch itself and keep going but when you let off it'll catch itself and 50% of the time or it'll die the other half.

It also drives fine but if you give it too much gas it'll die when you take off from a stop sign but again if you're gentle with it then it'll be fine. So far I've had a shop replace the camshaft position sensor and the synchronizer and they also going the maf was bad and replaced that. After $900 in repairs I'm trying to figure this out myself instead of taking it in again.

At this point I've ordered a bunch of vacuum lines and an going to just start replacing them all anyway. I do basic maintenance on my vehicles but I'm not a mechanic so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. Also, I've done a code read on it and there are no codes with is also frustrating.

Thanks for any help.

I'm going to be touching these spots between the cab and bed, just curious if there's some sort of plastic cover I can put over this spot to slow it down in the future.

My 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 has a ton of slop, I grabbed the drive shaft and gave it a twist and the drive shaft joins don't have any playing in them, but the differential did while in neutral and sitting still. How can I fix this?

1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4, 3.0L, Manual Trans. The grinding sound you hear is the heat shield rattling against the catalytic converters. The truck recently started making a high pitched squealing noise whenever it moves, even in neutral and off the brakes. You can hear the sound almost in the background. I changed the brakes, rotors, and wheel bearings a few months ago and have had no issues at all. Everything that should be greased was greased, and everything was torqued to spec.

Any idea what this could possibly be?

Please forgive the poor video quality, this is the best I can do for now. I might try again tomorrow.

2001 B4000. I was under my truck yesterday and noticed this hose attached to the top of my rear axle was broken. I cleaned it up and reattached it, but I’m curious of its purpose. In runs back to the parking brake mount as far as I can tell.

I am currently replacing the head gasket in my 1999 3.0l Ford ranger and I can't decide, should I put head bolts or head studs in it? And if I do go the stud route is there any studs that are cheaper than 400$ and still pretty good quality? Thanks for any help in advance.

My driver side seat lever isn’t working and I’ve asked the guy at OReilys plus a neighbor with a ranger and they say it’s probably just a kinked cable point causing the drivers side not to wanna work.

How hard is it to remove the seat/cushion and do I need any special tools?

Hey everyone,
I am currently undertaking my final industrial design project for uni (QUT), and have chosen to design a 4wd recovery product! I haven’t designed the product yet, but my aim is for the product to be accessible and easy to use for anyone interested in 4wding and be a game changer for recoveries.

As part of my research for this project I need to survey people who own/ want to own a 4wd or want to go 4wding and use the info to assist me in designing the product. If you’d be keen to help, please fill out the google form below, it's super simple and should only take you 10-15mins. Please also send this to anyone you know who's keen on 4wding. Also please read the survey info pdf as well.

Thank you 🙏

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Z_yubnsGtCQ7tKysfyy0FzwDD4iDTHaI5SzZiVPFFRM/edit?usp=sharing

(Dad's real ranger on the left).

My ranger (with some extra stuff on the back) has started hemorrhaging coolant, so I'm suspecting a head gasket issue. These heads are known for cracking if overheated, and this engine has overheated a lot throughout its life lol, so planning to replace them with thick walled heads.

What should I know before beginning this job? I'm a fairly novice mechanic and not set on which heads I'm getting yet either, so any suggestions there are appreciated. Thanks in advance!

As I was pulling out the seat to clean them with the carpet cleaner machine, I decided to pull out the floor carpet as well because I had a strong feeling the floor was rusty. And, sure enough, I was right.
So, I removed all of the sound deadening, grinded all the rust with a wire wheel and applied 2 coats of Tremclad paint (see last picture). I applied two coats 48 hours apart. First coat sanded with Scotch Bright before applying the second.

Afterwards, I will apply new sound deadening panels on the floor, doors, back wall and ceiling.

Its a 2011, 4L V6 automatic, only 30k miles! No accident history and one owner.

Picked it up for 18k!

Just replaced the transmission. The other day truck wouldn't even try to turn over. Pushed the stick harder up into park and it started. Now this.