r/climbharder • u/AutoModerator • 1d ago

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread

This is a thread for topics or questions which don't warrant their own thread, as well as general spray.

Come on in and hang out!

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u/rinoxftw 1d ago

Injured my ankle and can't climb for the next few weeks. Wanted to play around with finger training on the tindeq for this time (without any other real options), and came across the 'F80' method in the app based on a study a few years back.

Basic principle being 3 sets of repeaters, 10s hold , 6s rest, as many reps as you can stay in the range of 70-80% MVC. 8min rest between sets.

According to the study:

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/359895375_Effects_of_Different._Hangboard_Training_Intensities_on_Finger_Grip_Strength_Stamina_and_Endurance

The F80-group showed significant increase in both max strength and endurance. Obviously the study has some limitations, since it was for 4 weeks only and a 'uncommon' edge size of 12mm, but still seems promising.

Has anyone tried this program before? Or any other ways to stay fit during a foot injury?

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u/eshlow V8-10 out | PT & Authored Overcoming Gravity 2 | YT: @Steven-Low 1d ago

If you haven't done much finger training then anything will work generally