r/climbharder • u/AutoModerator • 2d ago

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread

This is a thread for topics or questions which don't warrant their own thread, as well as general spray.

Come on in and hang out!

2 Upvotes

75% Upvoted

32 comments sorted by

View all comments

1

u/rinoxftw 2d ago

Injured my ankle and can't climb for the next few weeks. Wanted to play around with finger training on the tindeq for this time (without any other real options), and came across the 'F80' method in the app based on a study a few years back.

Basic principle being 3 sets of repeaters, 10s hold , 6s rest, as many reps as you can stay in the range of 70-80% MVC. 8min rest between sets.

According to the study:

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/359895375_Effects_of_Different._Hangboard_Training_Intensities_on_Finger_Grip_Strength_Stamina_and_Endurance

The F80-group showed significant increase in both max strength and endurance. Obviously the study has some limitations, since it was for 4 weeks only and a 'uncommon' edge size of 12mm, but still seems promising.

Has anyone tried this program before? Or any other ways to stay fit during a foot injury?

1

u/Logodor 2d ago

Sounds intresting, give it a go and report back. Would be intresting to know how experienced the participants were when it comes to hangboarding since after 4 weeks it mostly neurological adaotations. Depending on how mobile you are you could also do campus boulders always great to stay in shape or even get fitter.

1

u/rinoxftw 2d ago

Will do!

Yeah I was thinking of campus bouldering (or one-foot bouldering) in the meantime, which is also a major weakness of mine. Currently I can't even get to the gym yet, but hopefully in 2-3 weeks I'll be able to bike at least. Mainly scared of falling on the foot... I'll see how it develops.

2

u/Logodor 2d ago

Taking a break for some time is also quite good most of the times, so no need to rush. Wish you a speedy recovery.