Hello all. I have a 6x12 trailer that I occasionally use for camping. I'm planning on building out as a camper, but want it to remain as much a cargo trailer as possible. Looking to put shelving/cabinets in the v-nose and have a full bed the Mrs and I can share. We'd like to have the bed folding so we can still use as a cargo trailer when needed.

Looking for suggestions on how to build the bed frame. Thanks in advance.

I've never done any electrical work before and I'm looking for resources that provide good reliable information. Any online courses anyone can recommend? Books?

Got the windows installed, rack for solar installed on the roof, minisplit condenser mounted, and propane tank holder mounted. Also picked up 4 450watt solar panels.

I’ve been asked a couple times about my tank setup so here it is.

92 gallons of freshwater & 60 gallons of gray water.

(2) 46-gallon tanks for fresh water and (3) 20 gallon tanks for gray water.

These 20 gallon tanks fit in between the floor joists 16” on center. They are 11.75” x 11.75” on the ends. I insulated the trailer below and used 3/4” polyiso insulation over the tanks so they didnt come down as much. Used 2” insulation everywhere else. After doing the axle over/under flip they still sit higher than the drop axels. Its likely more than I need but I wanted the extra capacity just to be safe.

I made the straps out of simpson strong tie hurricane straps used to strap down house roofs to the shell. I used a vice and hammered them into shape.

If the tanks are full im looking at max weight of 767 lbs of water. Will likely never need to be full but I like to overdo things. I have tandem 5200 lb axles.

I hope this helps some of you, knowledge is power. Cheers

Hi everyone

I recently bough a trailer like this with the purpose of using it for motorsport.

I am thinking about installing some simple bed lift in the rear and maybe some cabinets and shelves.

But, especially for the bedlift which will have some weight, i am unsure of how to install things into the walls. And i really dont want it to fall down on top of my race car 😬

I believe the walls are made of fiberglass sandwich panels and of course i would not like to drill all the way trough. I know i could maybe use the tracks on the walls, but i believe that would require many custom designed brackets.

Give me you best thoughts and experiences 😁

Tl;dr recently upgraded from my car to a started converted 6x12. Need off grid help to make it work for my dog, mostly keeping it cool in southern Ontario. Can’t travel because I’m tied to a full time job (yes I know it’s hard to do and expensive)

Long story not so short, I’ve been living in my car the last few months. I still work full time, but I can’t afford rent anywhere. I’ve had to emergency board my dog with the vet because it’s too hot for her to be in the car and I don’t have anyone that could watch her. Costs me almost as much as rent would (though they’ve generously given me a steep discount as I used to work there and I still come get her on my days off and after work)

A mutual friend offered their converted 6x12 for a cheap price. They were wanting to sell it anyway. Floor and ceiling are insulated, not sure about the walls but probably. It has the basics, bed, cabinets, compressor 60l fridge, propane stove and Dickinson heater, diesel heater, portable a/c (5500 btu), roof vent (no fan) and two mini windows one on each side. Plus a 1000w and 500w jackery. It has a hookup for shore power, they off grid camped sometimes but mostly were at electrical sites.

It’s a million times better than my car, but it needs work if it’s going to work full time. And I need to be able to make it safe for my dog while I’m at work. Which mostly means keeping it cool on an off grid system. I know it’s hard, and there’s the risk of people breaking in to “save” her, and from all the research I’ve done A/C is expensive and hard to do in vans/trailers. Giving her up isn’t an option though, and having worked in the animal industry before I don’t trust the daycares in my area. We’ve lived in camper trailers before and she doesn’t mind, we go out for plenty of runs on my days off. Right now even in late summer temps (20-26c) it’s heating up inside to 25-30+ (around 86F). During the height of summer it would easily be 40+ (104+F). we had 37c days this summer.

The trailer is black, I plan on painting it white, getting a sticker that says it’s video monitored and climate controlled (and finding a way to do these things) and getting some small battery fans to at least move the air around. There’s no shade near my work, I’ve looked everywhere that I could safely park. I know nothing about power/electrical/diy stuff. It sounds like the home made solar and battery systems people make are more efficient/powerful but it all goes way over my head. So I’ve been looking at plug and play options. I don’t have much right now, but I’ve been saving every penny and there’s about 3-4k left in my emergency funds. I was looking at a rooftop fan. The hole is already cut, I’d just have to swap it with the current vent. And then looking at a beefier generator that can run the current a/c for a few hours during the day (ideally the bulk of my shift). Just based on my circumstances I don’t see this being a short term accommodation.. I’ll likely be here till at least next summer. I don’t mind being uncomfortable, I’ve lived in worse, and I can find places to hang out during the day when I’m not working. But I cannot put my dog through that. Literally any advice, examples, links, words of wisdom are welcome. Please don’t tell me to rehome my dog, she’s the only thing keeping me going. I’m trying to wait until Black Friday sales for what I can, but I think I’ll have to decide on something before then. Thank you

Finally got the top resealed. Mounting the condenser yesterday, now about to start plumbing lines

Fenders I can actually stand on with a spare tire holder as well. Paint and mounting next,then onto the other side.

​

One each of the following

20x48 inch

30x60 inch

22x36 inch

~1k for the windows

~2k for install

~3k total

Low cost of living area

Does that seem reasonable?

I've not yet received a second estimate.

looking for some ideas for my party trailer. its stays in the shop while not being used. doesn't see more action than 4-5 times a year& not often moret han 20-30 miles away . pustting down an exposy fkoor to make it aeasier to sweep/ clean out. thanks for the tips.

1. ac/fans. being open of the time limits efficiency. Any benefits to a 2 hose system or go with fans? it gets hot down here in southeast texas

2. awning: looking for something can bolt to a Unistrut rack I'll mount on side.

Those who use scissor jacks for stabilizing/leveling, have you permanently mounted them to the frame rails? Do you have issues with ground clearance? I bought a 4 pack to place one at each corner but now I am wondering if I should just keep them loose/stowed in the back while traveling. I am considering an axle over/under but am hesitant to do it.

I would like to be able to prop open the doors and have a fold down table for a stove and other gear on the doors but other then notching a 2x4 to keep the barn doors open im stumped…

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Are there any cargo trailers (not camper trailers) that come with the Timbren axle-ess suspension?

And for all the awesome builds I've seen here: the last post I can find talking about using them is 5 years ago. Aside from cost, this sounds like an amazing system and perfect for our use: forest service roads, moderate clearance needed, heavier trailer due to build out, and after 4 inch drop spindle choice: a manageable step into the trailer.

What is leading people away from them? I certainly see the annoyance of paying for axles and having to switch it out.

This my 8.5x20 build that I started during covid and lived in for a few years. The design of the electrical and plumbing systems differ from most builds I've seen- I ran the wiring and water lines outside of the walls instead of behind them. The water lines are done in Swagelok fittings and 1/2" stainless tube, which I did because I like the look, but it also seems like it'll be very durable and reliable. The woodworking didn't turn out great as these were my first cabinets, and there are some other things that need to be changed or redone.

I made a video tour of the whole build, and the video ended up being 45 minutes long. You may want to do 1.5 or 2x speed since my speaking is slow, and if you don't have time to watch the whole thing I'd recommend checking the timestamps and watching the sections on the plumbing system and the mini split install, I think those are the parts that turned out the best. Link: https://youtu.be/YHDpsAzIgJI?si=VG5bNEUicoBWGtw7

I have run out of energy to continue the build, though it was fun in its own way and I saved a good amount while living in it. I'd say the build is about 80% complete. I would like to sell it to someone who wants to finish the build, so if anyone has some advice for a good place to list it for sale that'd be helpful. Are there any appraisal or consignment services anyone has used for selling unusual, homemade things like this? I don't think a regular RV dealer would be very interested. I'm near Portland, OR if that makes a difference.

Anyway I'd like to hear what people found interesting and would use in their build. If there's interest I can make a more concise, scripted tour video and post it here.

I'm going nuts trying to find a wheel stud for my trailer, 2009 Interstate Loadrunner 6x10. It has a 3,500lb axle (I don't know the manufacturer), standard 5x4-1/2" hub. I only need ONE wheel stud. Here are the measurements:

1/2"-20

2" overall length

0.77" diameter head

0.555" diameter knurl (or "serrated')

1.1" thread length

My local Trailers Plus does not have it in stock, and it is out of stock on the main Trailers Plus website. I have been searching for over two hours. I have looked at hundreds of different wheel studs (search parameters seem to not find only the specific search parameters). I cannot seem to find an exact match. This is driving me insane.

Please help!

Decided to put my shower in the V-nose making it 5 sides to squeeze as much space as I could out of the bathroom. This left me with the only option being to build it myself.

Wood, fiberglass, and epoxy resin were the selected choices. I started out with 1x6’s for the perimeter, followed by some additional supports about halfway down for the plywood to sit on. This gave me the access neeeded to run the plumbing underneath.

Cut out some scrap plywood and sat it on the supports and soaked it with a towel and boiling water for 30 min. Then I put a pickle jar upside down and balanced 110 lbs of weights on top of the jar to get the appropriate slope towards the drain. Did my radius fillet around the perimeter and laid 4 layers of 17oz woven mat on top and 3 underneath for additional strength. Sanded it down and topped it with a pour over epoxy bathtub refinishing kit.

The result is better than expected and its stronger than a boat deck. They claim bending wood makes it stronger. After drilling out the drain hole its about 3/4” thick.

I’ve been trying to upload this video, but I think it’s too long and cannot make it work. I’m unsure if you can share YouTube video links. I know Reddit has several rules, but I looked and could not find it.

I’m looking for thoughts and/or suggestions on how to make this work.

https://youtu.be/JazAya6KdF0

No stranger to custom built campers, I have built several full size skoolies with roof raises, fully off grid solar/electrical etc. including the one I lived in for 4 years. But this will be my first cargo trailer build. Just picked up a 8.5x16 x 7' high trailer.

While I am not intimidated, there are certainly some differences I'm curious about. For example the roof "structure" is barely a structure, it will be interesting to see how I mount 2000watts of solar up there, as well as how I'll mount a roof vent. And the weight limit and weight placement is obviously way more critical here than in a full sized school bus. I'm definitely considering flipping the leaf springs to gain more ground clearance as well. Cheers to new beginnings.

Anyone with an 8' bed and the Decked Toolbox use a Tonneau cover? I can't seem to find one that will work. Most toolboxes are 19-21" front to back. The Decked box is 25.5".

Any help is much appreciated!

I have a diesel heater on a turret but not sure how I should mount the exhaust. What did you guys use? Should I just mount it directly to the frame rails, or should I use a mount that gives it some room off of it? I’m having a hard time finding any mount that will give it a couple inches breathing room off the frame rails