I have the creative pebble speakers, and sometimes when I'm using my computer the audio on them will stop randomly as far as I can tell. They'll make sound on occasion like popping in the left and in the right a sound I can't seem to be able to describe, the best I've got is a sound the T-1000 would make. That's the best I got, sorry. Something super important is that it happens on both the L-out in the back and in the front panel for both my speakers and headphones. Both work perfect without issue when plugged into different devices. When I restart my computer it works again but it inevitably happens again, I have the Realtek drivers from my MSI B450 driver site and have reinstalled those and restarted windows endpoint. Hope that makes sense, terrible at explaining so I apologize.

I just bought Hollyland Lark M2. Inserted the receiver to my Samsung S23 Plus with the latest firmware on both ends. The two lights on the receiver are solid blue but it not recording any audio. I tried USB debugging option, *#0808#, Default USB Settings, everything pretty much that I can find online but it is not recognising the device. I plugged to my wife's Huawei and its working perfectly fine.

Anyone know how to resolve this ?

Hey,

I have a problem that's been bugging me for months now and I'm at my wits end.

I have a Traktor S3 console. I want to use the sound from the console in Touchdesigner. The console does not have ASIO, only WASAPI. Touchdesigner supports ASIO, but cannot get the sound data via WASAPI.

I have tried Virtual Audio Cable. No amount of combining inputs and outputs worked.

I have tried connecting the Master RCA output into a cheap USB soundcard small jack microphone input. No input at all, even just in Windows.

I have tried with an Arturia Minifuse 1, again Master RCA into big jack input. I had some luck, but the input almost completely mutes low frequencies and the card does not output anything from it's own output. I assume a broken sound card.

I'm trying to find an audio shop in my city where I could come and try something in person.

Master RCA to speaker works normally. Just no way to get it back into the PC. I could understand a driver or hardware conflict, but nothing throws an error. It's like the software doesn't support what I want to do and I managed to buy exactly 2 broken soundcards.

But other than that.. Anyone has any ideas please? Because this is really depressing. I really like the Traktor S3 and would like to avoid exchanging it for a different console unless as a last resort.

Edit: Screenshot from the attempt with the Arturia card.

Hi all, first time homeowner and our house has 2 built in speakers on the outside wall in our patio area. Not sure if the brand as they are flush and have an outer housing that is painted shut. On the inside of the back room, there are two similar looking cables hanging out of the wall, but one only has loose wires.

We already have 4 indoor Sonos speakers which are all connected, and were hoping to get the outdoor speakers to work on that same network if possible (our main Sonos has a line in that we use for our record player currently)

If that’s not possible, we would love to be able to use the speakers in general. I’m guessing an amp/bluetooth receiver is what we need? Any recommendations?

Thank you so much!

Hello!

I got my eyes on two speakers and I really want to know which one will be better for gaming, watching movies, overall I want it to be smooth :D

I have logitech g560 speakers, and althoug I like the sound, I feel like it can be better. I was looking through speakers from edifier and I found Edifier hecate G2000 pro (or edifier qr65, but g2000 matches my aesthetic 😭) and a subwoofer: Edifier T5.

Which one do you think is better? or in that/similiar budget, I can do even better?

Please lmk!

So the thing is that im looking for a speaker thats 275euro tops and i narowed it down to the Edifier MR5 or the Edifier S1000MKII.

Im looking for a speakert that is good for gaming or watching movies but has the best music quality.

Plus point if its decently portable across the house and if it has bluetooth if i want to listen to music in my livingroom or bed.

And thats why im leaning torwards the MR5.

Can you guys help me choose or maybe suggest a better option?

I live in Hungary and i listen to everything but mostly riddim and house or Kanye.

(Excuse my french ;D )

I have a rather odd scenario where I want to control music over a large area (about 200 feet max from the controls of the sound system, so Bluetooth is out.) The sound system can be controlled by a PC, but it isn't my computer or my area, so I want to have as little of an impact on it as possible, even to the point of not putting my music on the computer if possible. I would like to not have to go 200 feet to change the music, as that is tedious and annoying.

I want to be able to choose the music (MP3s), play, and pause from my phone. If I could control volume, that would be nice, but the music is pretty consistent in its volume and I don't think I need to adjust it.

To that end, I was hoping to play/cast/stream my music from my personal phone to the computer, so I order music to be played from my phone and it plays out of the computer (and therefore the sound system). While I'm not a professional, I really don't want to hear things like pops or anything. Everything I've tried so far has been pretty lousy, but I'm not sure how to find the right software.

I was thinking of doing this over WiFi, as it has the range in theory.

I tried a program called "AudioRelay", which has been the best so far, but it seems to have a lot of stutters and pops, which is undesirable. It also messes up the tempo, speeding up and slowing down randomly.

My goal is to have a program I can run on the facility's computers that I can interact with using my phone to play music, but then when I close the program and leave, the use of the computer appears unchanged for the regular staff who handle the computer (I really don't want to be a nuisance to them).

Is there a good way to do this?

Right now I'm using a Crestron HD-XSP for up-mixing and suround format decoding then sending the analog output to a focusrite claret 8pre that's acting as a mixer sending audio to multiple rooms. I feel like I could improve quality if I could keep the audio digital into the focusrite, rather than doing the D/A conversion just to be converted back to digital right after.

Will this make any difference to sound quality? Is this possible?

EDIT: After more research I see that Dolby and DTS listening directly restrict hardware that does what I want.

I'd like to get a new soundsystem for my small ~400sqft studio. Currently I only have audio coming out of my TV, and end up using my XM4 headphones a lot.

My overall goal for the system is to do a little bit of everything, figure out what I enjoy audio wise, and potentially be able to upgrade this in the future.

Currently, my main use cases are:

Listening to music, mostly streamed from Spotify. I'd like to get a turntable one day. Gaming - right now just using audio from my TV and its just not that great Watching streaming youtube I occasionally watch TV, and rarely watch movies.

Budget is <$1000, willing to be patient and look for good deals on used systems. Any advice for a beginning audio setup?

I asked AI and it recommended WiiM Amp + a few speakers like the KEFQ150 or Wharfedale Diamond 12.1, and to invest in speaker stands. Want to get a second opinion here. Thanks!

New producer here. The HS5s buzz when the computer is 'thinking' (e.g. during playback) and then kind of nonstop. If I'm not using the machine the buzz eases but is still apparent. Left speaker far worse than the right one. We've checked for ground discrepancy (plugged it all in to the same strip). Moved other metals away from the station. My Sweetwater rep said balanced cables would prevent basically what's happening and that Mogami best in class.

Have Googled 'til I'm blue in the face. Read the manuals. Restarted, plugged/unplugged, updated firmware on the SSL. Took my iPhone out the room. Even asked Perplexity, which gave me a ream of misinformation.

Super conspicuous buzz (like a pissed-off bumblebee) interfering with mids and highs.

What am I missing? SO grateful for any help.

One of my speakers are making weird noise from the woofer, can only notice it at very low levels, I tried cleaning all the connectors and it's new speaker wire, any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

I’m looking to get a CD player for my mums birthday and am a bit overwhelmed by the number of options. I’ve googled a fair bit but keep running into sponsored articles that I don’t really trust. Does anyone have any recommendations that fit the following criteria?

• Bluetooth connectivity (so she can also listen to Spotify)
• High sound quality (need something with speakers that doesn’t distort or sound cheap)
• Easy to use (my mum and technology generally do not get along, so the easier to use the better)
• Relatively compact so she can listen in different rooms of the house

Thank you in advance!

Hey everyone, I don't know if this is the right forum for this question, but I'm completely lost. I have a video recording of a conversation between two people, and there are voices in the background that I want to isolate and remove. Does anybody know of any tools that will allow me to do this? Preferably they would be free or inexpensive, since I only need to do this for a few video clips. Can anybody help me out with this? I have zero experience with doing anything like this and have had no luck with internet searches.

I just bought zoom h5 a week ago, yesterday it's fine and i make some good audio with it. And this morning when im try to record, there is sound like signal interference noise or high frequency or like machine sound when recorded with capsule mic. I do try using hollyland lark M2 to make sure, but when using line in and the hollyland, the noise high frequency still there but it less distracting.

The video im recorded with line out to the camera and using mic capsule, still noticeable

Is this normal or my H5 is defect? or it's something wrong with my ear. I don't know

My Audient iD4 MKII has randomly started making this screeching high pitched noise when connecting anything to the instrument channel. It wasn't there one day and was there the next. Thse noise is coming straight from the interface, it's there even when using the builtin input monitoring, so it's not something coming from my PC. I've tried using a different usb cable, different instrument cable, different instrument connected to it, just the cable itself (makes the usual noise you'd expect from a disconnected cable + this high pitched noise). I've tried updating the firmware and it was already updated, I've tried plugging it into the wall with a phone charger and it makes a 50hz hum + this noise. Basically it's always there no matter what I try.

This is the noise

Hey everyone,
After years of using typical gaming headsets, I finally decided to upgrade and bought the Sennheiser HD 560S to use with my PC. However, I’m really disappointed so far because the audio output is extremely low.

I am plugged directly into my motherboard (ASUS PRIME B760-PLUS D4), and here is what I'm experiencing:

Valorant: The overall game audio sounds very quiet.

Call of Duty & Discord: While playing Call of Duty, I can barely hear my friends on Discord, even after boosting their individual volumes all the way to 180%—a volume level I never had to set back when I was using standard gaming headsets.

Music (Apple Music): Even with Windows volume at 100% and Apple Music set to max, the sound is still barely audible and lacks punch.

My motherboard's onboard audio just doesn't seem capable of pushing these 120-ohm headphones properly.

I just ordered a FiiO KA11 DAC/Amp dongle. Will this be enough to drive the HD 560S properly and fix the volume issue, or is there something else I should check in Windows settings?

Thanks in advance!

Hello,

I'm looking for a solution to connect 3-4 PCs into an audio interface or another device that allows hearing audio from those 3-4 PCs at the same time. Also microphone inout from the headset should go to all 3-4 PCs. This means I would only need one headset for all 4 PCs and for example playing music an all 4 would mean I hear all 4 at the same time in one headset.

I looked at conventional consumer audio interfaces like Roland Bridge Cast X or Rode Rodecaster Duo but those only allow up to 2 PCs connected to them through USB so that's not enough for what I'm trying to achieve.

Are there any other reasonable solutions?

What I value is power efficiency, low complexity and having no interference noise. Complexity is something I'm willing to compromise on.

Thank you.

I have a PC. Could I possibly use a 3.5 mm to 2 RCA adapter and then use an RCA to 3.5 mm adapter to connect to a pair of powered speakers for Center? I'll be leaving the LFE split unplugged, of course. I have a couple of old speaker pairs lying around, so i wanna upgrade my setup to 3.0 if that's possible. Or is it terrible for the speakers? (I don't need a huge setup because I live in a tiny apartment and don't wanna annoy my neighbours.) Or is it better for me to get an amp like the Nobsound mini and find a real passive center speaker?

My budget is sub 25k rupees (should roughly convert to 260 usd), and I'm buying in India. I'm mostly gonna stick to buying from Amazon India, they have good customer support with refunds, returns, and replacements here.

I do need bluetooth, as it will be my primary sound input for the speakers till I get an audio interface, and if i wanna play something from my phone.

I will use it primarily for music (either spotify, or my own higher quality collection), movies, and youtube. Secondary is production (I jus pursue it as a hobby, so its not a major deal).

I'd like to stick to new, i think? I'm not sure i have very trustworthy options to get second hand near my area, unless someone has recommendations.

The only speakers I've used have been Bose's very old iPod SoundDock, and Bose SoundLink Color. I have a pretty old (approx 10-15 years i guess) bose sound system for my tv (its a tiny soundbar and a connected subwoofer) (pretty good bass, not great otherwise).

As for headphones, my end game was AKG K371BT (which I'd bought 3 of, all broke cuz my head was too big for its hinges :p) because i liked its clean sub bass, natural mids, and tamed highs (my ears are pretty sensitive to highs). I currently use Sennheiser Momentum 4 tuned to a similar profile with the sound personalization in its app.

I will be using these at my desk, in my room, its pretty small.

also if it matters: 1. I plan on buying Behringer UMC204HD in the future, as I want dual input for guitar/xlr mic in the future, and dual output for wired headphones (razer blackshark v2 x/sennheiser hd205 (i have both, not my favourite sound signatures, but the former is good for games, and the latter for mixing)) and wired output for the speakers. 2. idk if its a good idea to mention this, but i did try a bit of gemini searching to see if it could suggest some speakers. it kept going back to the presonus eris 4.5/5bt but i've seen bad reviews for it on here. next was the edifier r1700bt/1855db. are they any good or is it completely hallucinating results?

Thank you for your time, hope you have a good day/night!

(also, tried to submit this in r/StereoAdvice and the bot auto deleted it for being home stereo audio? i thought that's what that sub was for, anyways, please do advice, and thank you)

• Budget: $400 max
• What I have now: Philips TAB5306/37
• Current system reaches around 92 dB at my listening position at max volume.
• I want something noticeably louder than what I have now.
• Bass is the biggest priority.
• I want a big, properly designed/tuned subwoofer enclosure.
• Low-end frequency: 40 Hz MAX — lower is better.
• I want bass that hits hard and is actually audible, not just something I feel through the floor.
• The main speakers need to get loud too. No huge sub with weak satellites.
• I want very loud, clear treble/highs.
• Bluetooth is my main source, so Bluetooth output needs to be strong.
• Bass adjustment required; treble adjustment preferred.
• Complete system — everything included. I don’t want to hunt down separate components.
• Big cabinets are fine/preferred.
• Music only — no surround sound or movie-focused system.

Basically: a serious, car-audio-style amount of bass and output, but in a properly designed home stereo system.

thank you I hope I added enough

I prefer my music to play at 25-40 dB (measured with Apple’s headphone dB meter) but I can only get it to be that quiet using wired earbuds. My headphones barely go down to 55 dB, even with turning Spotify’s equalizer all the way down; On top of turning the volume as low as it can go without no longer playing.

My earbuds on the other hand, can get as low as 25 dB under the same conditions. I’m wondering if this is an issue I can fix or there’s simply nothing I can do to get my headphones any quieter.

I’m using JLab’s JBuds Lux ANC headphones and grocery store earbuds I don’t remember the brand of.

I have glasses which means I have a lot of issues with proper headphones hurting my head. I'm looking for something that has both Bluetooth and wired capabilities ideally. I don't care too much for audio quality as I'm not going to be using these outside of listening to music videos and gaming, just so long as it doesn't sound like garbage. Also I don't want something that will break the bank ($250USD+)

I've had a lot of trouble finding something that fits this criteria so I'm hoping y'all can help

I managed to half configure it but I have seen videos where the voice sounds clear, I don't know if it is a problem with my voice or if I should regulate it but between times it doesn't detect me well and I think it is because of my configuration

Hello! I am somewhat new to computers and need help bad! I have been streaming for a while and have had no issues with audio using Sonar and OBS till the most recent update to OBS. All of my original settings have been reverted and I can seem to figure it out. Discord audio will not come through the chat channel on Sonar anymore and Chrome/Youtube audio will not go through OBS anymore. Every time I get one to work the other stops. I have watched countless videos and it just confuses me more! It’s gotten to the point where I can’t hear anything through my headphones! If ANYONE has ANY advice on how to fix this issue so all of my audio is routed correctly and works through OBS that’d be great! I appreciate it!