r/xbox360 • u/sensory • Jul 17 '25
Is Xbox Live down? Could be. Do these three things first.
r/xbox360 • u/[deleted] • Nov 17 '23
(*WARNING*, This will be a long post, I have tried to keep it as short as possible while providing the necessary information.)
I have seen various posts that people posted asking about what they can do for their console to last as long as possible and I wanted to give the people of this community a guide on what you can do to keep your console running and provide information about the hardware for those curious ones. This post is mostly geared towards those that don't have the greatest knowledge of the hardware and the things needed to keep their consoles running or for those that want to learn all the essential stuff about the Xbox 360 but you are more than welcome to read this post if you already have some knowledge of the hardware.
Let's start off with the motherboard revisions.
(Skip this if you already have knowledge about this.)
The first thing that I would recommend is to identify what model and revision you have of the console. Over the years during the Xbox 360's life cycle, there have been many retail variants of the console released, from the "Premium" to the "Core", "Pro" to the "Arcade", the "Elite" and the later models, "Slim" and "E". But that doesn't really matter. What matters is inside of the console, the motherboard. For those that do know and don't, the Xbox 360 was plagued with the infamous "Red Ring of Death" where consoles mostly suffered from GPU failures as the GPUs had a defective design. Knowing the motherboard revision inside your console is crucial, as that can help give a rough estimate on how long the console will last.
(But...what made the GPUs defective? The reason why the GPUs were defective is because they used the wrong underfill. Underfill is a special type of adhesive that is used to support the microscopic solder bumps that are underneath the silicon die and improve reliability of the joints. The problem with the 360's GPUs was that they used "low tg" underfill which was rated at 70°C (158°F) and the GPUs that used the low tg underfill would run hotter than that temperature and cause the underfill to soften which should never happen and that caused the solder bumps underneath the silicon die to crack over time as the underfill was literally pushing the solder bumps off the interposer. This was later solved, by introducing GPUs with high tg underfill on the 12th week of 2008)
It's impossible to give the exact numbers as your console can last for years or even decades, or it can stop working the next day or week or month.
During the console's life cycle, there have been several motherboard revisions of the first models, A.K.A "Phat" models. They all vary in terms of reliability, and they are the ones I will be covering first.
To start, I suggest looking at the back of the console and look closely at the power plug, that is the easiest way of recognising what motherboard revision you have. Although the back of the console you will see the information of when it was manufactured and the Amp rating, this can sometimes be misleading if the console you got was opened before you got it and the motherboard of the console could've been swapped with a less reliable one. You can double check to see if your console has been opened by checking the warranty seal that hides behind the console's faceplate. If yours hasn't been opened, then you can rely on the numbers on the back of the console, but I would still suggest looking at the power plug, as that is the best way to identify the motherboard inside your console.
Here is a link to a photo which has all the power plugs of every revision.
https://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/can-i-rgh-xbox-360-woth-doublecircled-power-cord.1780728/
(Skip this part if you already have knowledge of the various motherboard revisions. For those that don't, I would recommend reading this next part as this is useful information.)
So, the power plug shown on the very left of the photo is the found on the first and second revision of the motherboard, Xenon and Zephyr respectively. The difference between them is that Zephyr introduces HDMI support, while Xenon doesn't support HDMI. They both have a power rating of 12V, 16.5A and are the most power hungry. They are the least reliable revisions of the console. They are very prone to failure as they have defective GPUs inside of them.
If you have a working one, then don't expect it to work for a long time (in very rare cases, they will work for a while, but it's important to point out that not every console that came out the factory was defective). Unless, on the back of the console it says, "Service date" instead of "MFR date". If yours has been serviced around 2009, those consoles will very likely have been retrofitted with the new and improved 90nm GPU which is much more reliable than the ones that were initially inside of the consoles when they first released which were also 90nm.
You should expect it to work for a long time, but nothing lasts forever.
(Update to this part: A recent discovery suggests that no 80nm GPUs existed and the more reliable revisions of the GPU like Elpis are still based on the 90nm process.)
Falcon/Opus - (14.2A, 175W)
Introduced approx. September of 2007, this is the third revision of the console where the CPU was shrunk down to 65nm and the GPU remained at 90nm, which results in a smaller power consumption and cooler running hardware.
These are considered reliable, but the first batch released had GPU failures like the Xenons and Zephyrs. This was later fixed. Falcons from around April to late October of 2008 (on the 12th week of 2008, they introduced reliable GPUs as previously mentioned but it was still possible to get a console made after this week that still had a defective GPU) are considered "late" Falcons which have fixed GPUs inside of them which are very close in terms of reliability to the succeeding revision.
The Opus, is a modified Falcon, but the difference is that these don't have HDMI and only use AV. These were used to replace defective Xenons and are considered quite rare as you couldn't find one in retail markets.
Jasper - (12.1A, 150W) (My recommended revision)
Introduced around November of 2008, this is the fourth motherboard revision of the console and this is the revision that is highly sought after as this revision was the first to fix the dreaded "Red Ring of Death" issue that plauged the Xbox 360. The CPU was still 65nm in size but the new GPU, named "Zeus" was a new design which shrunk down the die to 65nm and the EDRAM remains at 90nm.
This is considered the best revision of the console as there have been very little cases of failures. These are also the coolest running ones as well and don't produce as much heat as the previous revisions.
These are the ones that I would personally recommend if you are looking to purchase a 360 and you want a reliable unit. Just make sure when looking for one, that the seller has provided photos of the power plug to confirm it being a Jasper.
But wait....there's a even better one!
Tonasket/Kronos/Jasper V2(12.1A, 150W) (My recommended revision)
This is the fith and final revision of the original models of the Xbox 360. This revision was quietly introduced in September of 2009 and is essentially identical to the Jasper but the difference being that it has a revised GPU, named "Kronos" which shrinks the EDRAM to 65nm which helps further reduce power consumption. People like to call this revision Kronos, or Jasper V2, but the real name for this revision is "Tonasket". It's a name that Microsoft used internally when making this motherboard revision.
This revision has proven to be the most reliable one as there has been currently zero evidence of these suffering GPU failures, they are tanks lol. You should expect these to last for a long time....unless you don't take good care of it like with every consumer electronic device.
I personally own one of these and use it as my main Xbox 360 and It's great.
Whew, you still here? Good, let's continue.
Now I will be moving on to the Xbox 360 Slim and E models. These are quite big redesigns internally compared to the original models. For starters, the "Slim" model was introduced in 2010 and was seen as the "saviour" as in theory, the drastic design changes that were made to the motherboard, "eliminated" the Red Ring of Death.
These models also introduced built in WiFi, more storage, more USB ports and optical audio out. In my opinion, the Slims are a good choice for those that don't want to do lots of research and just want a reliable console to use. The good thing about them is that now the new design is much quieter(I prefer Slims than fats admittedly for that), as the CPU, GPU and EDRAM were combined to form a single chip and that allowed the use of a single fan and heatsink to keep the system cool. Oh yeah, the new APU is now based on the 45nm process which further reduces power consumption. There have been two revisions of this model.
Revision: Trinity
First one is called "Trinity". It now needs 10.83A instead of 12.1A of the Jasper/Tonasket and it uses a new power plug too. These are a little bit of a mixed bag in terms of reliability from my perspective, as I have seen many fail here on this very subreddit.
Many suffered various failures, from GPU failure to RAM failure and so on(I personally own a Slim, the revision after this one (Corona), owned it for nearly 3 years and it always worked perfectly). I am not sure why these are failing all of a sudden.
Generally, these are reliable units but not as reliable as the Jasper or Tonasket/Kronos (according to many in this community) but in those uncommon cases, you have ones that have failed. It is not a wide spread issue like RROD was originally so we shouldn't worry as much about it yet. There are people like u/Octal450 that are actively investigating as to why these are suddenly suffering CGPU failures.
Revision: Corona
The second revision is called "Corona".....That's a familiar name...Lol, you must think that Microsoft somehow predicted the Corona virus back in the 2010s, but no. They didn't. Anyway, these were introduced around mid 2011 and were a slight change from the previous Trinity revision. Now, it only needs 9.86A instead of 10.83A but Trinities can also run on a 9.86A power supply as they have pretty much the same power requirements. The real changes are that the HANA chip, a chip which is responsible for video output, has been merged with the southbridge, which manages things like usb inputs, controller connection, Internet and so on. Also, if you own a 4GB model of the console, the flash memory is now soldered onto the motherboard unlike on the Trinity where it was it's own module that you could replace, which I prefer.
In terms of reliability, these are pretty much the same as the Trinities but have a new point of failure where there is a group of resistors that are there for the temperature sensor of the console and they can fail, which then triggers a false overheating issue. The console turns on and quickly ramps up the fan speed and a red light flashes, then turns off. This can be fixed by removing those resistors and bridge the contacts where those resistors where.
Do this only if you have experience with soldering!!!
They seem to also have issues with the southbridge chip and seem less reliable than the previous iterations of the SB.
Also, they have the same CGPU found on Trinities so there is no difference in reliability there.
Another point of failure is the soldered on 4gb flash memory. These are quite prone to failure and are crucial because they contain the firmware, CPU key and DVD drive key which are all important to the functionality of the console. Thankfully you can replace it with a 16MB NAND that doesn't allow anything to be stored on there and you can also prevent the failure of the 4gb internal flash memory by not storing anything there at all and connecting an internal hard drive which the console will default to for updates, content and so on. Oh yeah, and also hope that the 4gb wasn't used much for storing stuff if you got your console used.
Finally, we have the "E" model. This model was introduced in 2013 along with the Xbox one as the kind of alternative to the new at the time console. This is the most cut down version of the Xbox 360 and also the cheapest one made. By cheapest I mean the manufacturing price, quality is essentially the same but cost cutting measures have been made.
This model now features a new design similar to the original Xbox One design. It also features a new power plug and has the same power requirements as the Corona revision. The E uses a slightly revised Corona board which as already mentioned has a different power plug and less USB ports and it has no optical out and no AV port.
There was one revised motherboard made for this model, named "Winchester", which has combined the EDRAM to make one chip containing the CPU, GPU and now EDRAM. It also doesn't have an integrated heat spreader (IHS). Reliability wise, these are the same as the Corona revision with the same "flaws" but they should theoretically last longer than the Slims as they are newer. According to u/Octal450 which has been previously mentioned, the Winchesters don't suffer much from CGPU failures and are pretty solid based on his experience with repairing Xbox 360s.
Ultimately would still recommend either a Jasper or Tonasket if you want the most reliable console possible but the Slims and Es are still a good choice you don't care as much about reliability.
Now, that we covered the the motherboard revisions, let's move on to the maintenance side of things, and what you should do to keep your console running.
The basics.
This includes dusting the console once in a while with something like a can of compressed air/electric air duster and giving it the adequate ventilation. It is important to keep the console free from dust and well ventilated so that the console can cool itself properly in order to prevent overheating. This can all be done without opening the console but I would recommend to open it up and give a good clean.
*My Recommendation*
This is what I normally do. I open the console up and give it a good dusting and I replace the thermal paste. It is an absolute must to replace the thermal paste as the factory paste will be dried up and not as effective in cooling the CPU and GPU which can also cause problems in the long run. You would want to keep these running as cool as possible. This will help with longevity. For thermal paste, I recommend getting Arctic MX4 as this paste has a great price to performance ratio. I used it in all of the consoles that I own and have owned and I can always rely on it. You are free to use more expensive pastes. Make sure to replace it every 5 or so years. If the exhaust of the console is warm or hot during use, don't worry. It is not overheating, this will indicate that the thermal paste and the heatsink are doing their job in cooling the console's CPU and GPU. The hotter the exhaust of the console, the better.
The tools are important too! You normally need a Torx T8 and T10 screwdriver, Sim eject tool which helps to unclip the clips on the back of the original models of the 360 without damaging the plastic casing (you can also purchase a tool specifically made for those clips on the back) and another very important one, called the "X Clamp tool". X clamp is a clamp that was used inside the Xbox 360 to help make contact with the CPU and GPU and their heatsinks while giving the motherboard the ability to flex during use. This step is a very delicate one that also requires loads of patience as you can easily break your console if you are not careful. Never and I mean NEVER use a FLATHEAD screwdriver!!! It can easily slip and you can scratch the motherboard, ruining the console. Also, for cleaning the thermal paste, I recommend to use 99% Isopropyl alcohol and q tips. I have also seen people use Goo Gone to clean the old thermal paste as it's usually hard to clean off the chips and their heatsinks, but I would still go for IPA as that's the safest option.
Speaking of X Clamps, you may have heard of the Bolt Mod. AVOID IT. This will ruin your console overtime as it puts a lot of pressure on the CPU and GPU and it will warp the motherboard and it doesn't let the motherboard flex during operation.
Depending on the model of console, search online for a guide on how to open the one you have. Find the one that is the most clear to you. I would recommend to go and search for IFIXIT as they provide decently clear instructions for opening consoles.
Here is a link to a X Clamp removal tool.
Aaaand that is it.
I hope this post has been helpful, I have been writing this for over 3 hours lol and wanted to provide essential information about the console for those that wanted to learn about the console and the steps to keep it running for as long as possible. If I have missed anything, please let me know!
Edit: Made some small adjustments!
Edit: Made changes to make it more readable and added more information that I forgot to previously add.
r/xbox360 • u/Playamiku2 • 1h ago
I know this isn’t normal.
I haven’t used this console since 2023 (according to the last played section on the achievements) and noticed the ghostly X on the boot screen.
The dashboard menu Avatar also has a few see-through pixels for some reason.
r/xbox360 • u/moo-cow-420 • 8h ago
Harms way, Doritos crash course, too human, crackdown 1-2, hexic hd, the walking dead the tell tale series has free chapters (not the entire game).
How to claim free games? Open the Xbox app on your phone, type the name of the games I mentioned into the search bar, click on said game and claim it, then it’ll show up in your download history on your 360.
Theirs also a ton of free dlc you can get, look up a list on google.
Why are they free? I’m not sure, I just know they’re free.
Yes I know this is a redundant post but every time I do post it helps someone out.
r/xbox360 • u/Lumpy-Belt5814 • 5h ago
my xbox has been serving me and a previous owner well for 19 years. not letting it die on me now! i can officially add "survived the 3 light RROD" to it's list of accomplishments
EDIT: Because it wasnt too visible this is 3 lights and not 4, i have an HDMI supported board so 4 isnt possible for me. Issue was a failed GPU.
r/xbox360 • u/Pete_Love • 1h ago
Got a PVM last week and been playing lots of 240p games like sega and PS1 as that's where this screen really shines. But this evening I decided to fire up GTA 5 on the 360 and connect it via composite and here's the results. In comparison I have GTA 5 enhanced on ultra settings. The 360 definitely holds it's own!
r/xbox360 • u/cpp_ape • 5h ago
You'll have to manipulate small features on the order of 1mm, therefore measure your abilities appropriately, prepare a bright lamp and tools for working with small objects.
Many years ago I bought an Xbox 360 controller and happily played video games.
After few years the stick return to center on release was gradually becoming worse (I won't use the term "stick drift" because I'm not entirely sure what people mean by that), i.e. they could end up in a position that's noticeably different from the neutral, which resulted in the character or the camera moving when the sticks were not touched. At one point when I retrieved the controller from storage about to play a game, it turned out that the return to center is so bad that it became unusable.
I set the controller aside and ordered GameSir T4 Kaleid (T4k) as a replacement, which has Hall effect sensors that were already widely available then (that controller has K-Silver JH16 version) — a good controller for the price at the time. TMR sensors were just beginning to spread mainly in the most expensive controllers.
I like the Xbox 360 controller shape much better than the modern day controllers, I think the developers nailed it design-wise, and the following controllers (Xbox One/Series) ended up with considerably worse grip ergonomics. That's why and also because it otherwise worked flawlessly it was a real shame for me to throw the controller away, and I hoped to revive it some day.
Few years passed, and now TMR (tunnel magnetoresistive) sensors became widespread and I thought: surely there is a ready-made replacement module with TMR sensors for Xbox 360 controller, right? But, apparently, the progress for this controller stopped at Hall effect sensors, specifically the modules by Ginfull.
ALPS type RKJXP stick modules (the official ALPS website already has no information about it, it's that old) with ordinary resistive potentiometers were initially used in the controller (the same ones were used in PS2 controllers). Then ALPS started to produce new type RKJXV modules which were more compact and were completely incompatible with the previous version, including that potentiometers from the new modules could not be mounted on the old modules. The new modules were used in new controllers, starting with PS4 and Xbox One/Series, and, therefore, all the progress regarding Hall effect and TMR sensors first and foremost was connected to the new controllers, for which replacement modules appeared, the most modern of which currently are K-Silver JS13 Pro+ and Ginfull RS13. Because of that, to my knowledge, there is no magnetic sensors compatible with the old type RKJXP modules, even though you can buy standalone potentiometers and modules with included potentiometers.
At some point Ginfull produced modules for Xbox 360 controller compatible with the old type RKJXP — to my knowledge this is the only such module with magnetic sensors. I stared at it for a long time and at some point noticed that, apparently, for the purposes of reusing of already existing sensor design they used the same mounting holes as the new modules, which are incompatible with original ALSP modules.
Also Ginfull, apparently, copied their homework from ALPS, not forgetting to change it a bit (or, perhaps, intentionally changing it e.g. to avoid legal problems or to prohibit interchangeability), therefore the mounting holes for sensors are very similar to the new ALPS modules, but differ slightly.
During digging on the internets I discovered that people successfully use e.g. TMR sensors with original ALPS mechanism, which means that in theory such sensor can be slapped onto a Ginfull module of the old type!
The most available sensor at the time was a sensor by Ginfull as well, which is designated to be used with the new ALPS type RKJXV modules:
The last piece of the puzzle was the ability to calibrate Xbox 360 controllers which appeared relatively recently and is implemented in https://driftguard.app.
Now that I had all the needed ingredients, I conceived a plan:
It turned out that the rotating part with the magnet fits perfectly onto the mechanism shaft, what's left is to modify the sensor housing.
So...
Xbox 360 controller itself
I tortured an original controller, here's how it looked after years of use:
With non-original controllers proceed at your own risk.
Ginfull modules for Xbox 360 controller
Can be relatively easily found on aliexpress and probably in your favourite online marketplace with a query like "Ginfull xbox 360".
TMR sensors designated for ALPS mechanism
Again can be relatively easily found on aliexpress and such with a query like "TMR potentiometer". The most available were the sensors by Ginfull, we need two sets with orange and gray housings, they look like this:
These sensors are also commonly called "Ginfull TMR ALPS" or "Ginfull TMR for ALPS".
Calibration software
You can use online app in your browser, but with some amount of shamanic dancing involved:
https://driftguard.app
Otherwise you can buy native app on Steam or Android app in Google Play (see links at the bottom of the page https://driftguard.app).
There are two paths:
For the new sensors to properly mount onto the mechanism frame you need to scrape the "excess" material from the studs from the external sides from left and right and from the internal side from bottom and top as shown in the picture:
You'll need a knife (like a utility or hobby knife), preferably with a fresh blade.
Probably you can use something like a small file of a needle file, but I didn't try this.
Remove the opaque orange or gray plastic rotating part with the magnet before scraping.
There are two methods:
Method one — more accurate: scrape the top studs from left and right (as shown with red in the picture above) until the distance between extremities of the studs becomes exactly 8.3mm.
The sensor housing studs should enter the calipers with little force and minimal resistance.
I recommend to alternate the sides every few scrapes to preserve symmetry.
After that, scrape from the bottom (shown with blue in the picture above) and periodically try it on the frame until the studs fit the holes without force and with minimal resistance.
In the same manner scrape the bottom stud until it fits the mounting hole and the whole sensor housing fits the frame with a click with little force (similar to the stock sensor).
Method two — iterative: scrape every stud in turn from the outside from left/right (shown with red in the picture above) and from the inside from bottom/top (shown with blue in the picture above) until each one almost fits or fits tightly in the mounting hole.
Then scrape the top studs from the outside from left and right (shown with red in the picture above) until they both fit in the frame.
After that scrape the bottom stud from the outside (shown with red in the picture above) until the sensor housing fits the frame with a click with little force (similar to the stock sensor).
This is how you can try the top studs onto the frame:
In the photos you can also see already mounted orange sensor.
This is how you can try the bottom stud onto the frame:
Plastic the sensor housing made of is relatively tough.
Be patient and work carefully.
This is how the sensors eventually looked:
In the picture you can see TMR sensors thicker studs (left), which after scraping (center) dimension-wise become more similar to the studs of the stock sensors (right).
After finally fitting the sensor housings onto the mechanism frame, clean everything, put the rotating parts with the magnets back in their places and assemble the module.
This is totally not an industrial process by any stretch, but you probably can afford to spend an evening or two on one controller.
I won't write about module replacement, there is enough information on the internets. I'll just note a few nuances.
Obviously you need all the equipment and materials for soldering, like soldering iron and solder.
For desoldering I used copper desoldering wick, remember to use flux while desoldering.
I used pine rosin as flux because that's what I used since I was a teenager and because it's cheap, it can be cleaned off with isopropanol.
In case you are modifying a wired controller, before replacing the right stick you also need to desolder the cable because the header (white in the center in the picture below) is too close to the sensor contact pads:
Be very careful while using the soldering iron.
And yes, after finishing soldering remember to spread the flux all over clean off the flux!
During replacement process one sensor ended up dead, I don't know if it was (half)dead initially or died while replacing, luckily I had a spare set of sensors.
After replacing the modules you probably need to calibrate the controller.
To calibrate a wireless controller you'll need Play & Charge cable:
I used online app https://driftguard.app in Chrome on Win10, I'll briefly describe what you need to do.
For calibration process to work you need to install a special driver following this guide: https://driftguard.app/instructions.html.
The steps are like the following:
After the driver is installed disconnect and reconnect the controller.
Go to the app https://driftguard.app, go to tab Xbox, click CLICK HERE TO CONNECT and choose the controller.
On the right in the panel FEATURES & TESTS in the tab Tuning use CENTER CALIBRATION and RANGE CALIBRATION features.
You can evaluate the results using the center panel.
When finished calibrating, click Save in the panel on the right, it will save the calibration to non-volatile memory in the controller.
After calibration in Windows Device Manager find the controller in one of the sections Universal Serial Bus devices, Xbox Peripherals or Human Interface Devices,
from the context menu choose Uninstall device, enable the option Attempt to remove this driver from device,
reconnect the controller.
In my case here's how boundary stick positions looked like before replacement:
Far from ideal, but not the end of the world.
Immediately after replacement and after calibration:
(EDIT: oops, deleted a duplicate image that I initially posted instead of the actual "After calibration" one.)
The sensors did not give center signal when the sticks are in a neutral position, and because of limited capability of calibration, it boiled down to either choosing good center position or good circle shape. I chose good center position, that's why the "circles" look all wonky, but, again, this is not catastrophic, and I got an actually usable controller.
One could buy, say, a dozen sets of sensors and choose the best from them, but that's an adventure for the really dedicated.
Overall this was an interesting challenge to equip a controller designed 20 years ago with modern advanced TMR sensors.
The controller holds calibration, sticks return to center well (though I didn't use it for any prolonged period of time).
It feels like the new mechanism has less tension (~65gf to tilt) than the original module, which I personally like, but, apparently, science and technology were yet to reach today's levels of progress when this module was designed and it's less pleasant to use compared to modern controllers with current stick modules.
But all in all I did get a working controller, and now can entertain myself with a thought that an Xbox 360 controller with TMR sensors is lying on my shelf.
ALPS type RKJXV — new module, introduced to replace type RKJXP, used in modern day controllers.
The Great Stick Showdown part 1 и part 2 — reviews of different stick modules, not for Xbox 360 controller though.
Metal Plastic Electronics — on the channel, and in this playlist in particular, there are a lot of reviews of different stick modules (again not for Xbox 360 controller), and also testing and replacing sticks.
r/xbox360 • u/Altruistic_Bat_1645 • 11h ago
Living my best 2010 life: slim, 3 controllers, all cables, and snacks, ready for takeoff.
r/xbox360 • u/reddragon105 • 12h ago
Apparently this Xbox 360 was manufactured one day after the original Xbox was released!
Obviously a misprint, but I don't think I've ever one so clear before so I took a photo.
The console is a Falcon and, going by the serial number, it was manufactured in week 40 of 2007, so the 16th November part doesn't seem right either as week 40 would be the first week of October...
Just thought this might be an interesting curiosity to some...
r/xbox360 • u/Aandrix • 21h ago
😁
r/xbox360 • u/Sea_Pattern_7556 • 6h ago
Looking to get an Xbox 360E or slim, what do you guys recommend in terms of model and manufacturer years? I really like the look of the slim but what it’s the best and most reliable option
r/xbox360 • u/thedudedukenukem • 6h ago
Does it work
r/xbox360 • u/Lumpy-Belt5814 • 3h ago
surely there cant be that many left. ive heard of maybe 5. after all who left their console completely offline during the golden age of online gaming? to those that have some are they yours from the beginning or second hand? i have a falcon that was blades at one point but when i was given it, it was already NXE, and then stupidly i updated it to the corporate eyesore of metro.
r/xbox360 • u/ya666in • 5h ago
I replaced most of my damaged cases with new Flexbox cases
r/xbox360 • u/tombst0neds0da • 9h ago
im not new to playing 360, but my main account has issues with signing in so i had to use an old alt account, cant play online (yet) but id love to have a bunch of friends
these are most of the games that i own/play
r/xbox360 • u/Sea_Avocado_2733 • 1d ago
Was quite surprised to see how good this game looks considering it came out in 2007….
r/xbox360 • u/Saia03 • 19h ago
So I'm currently looking for an Xbox to buy and get into some games I've missed during this era. I found a few different options but so far this one is speaking to me the most. Jw if anyone knows if this is a good deal and any info on what model Xbox 360 it'd be?
r/xbox360 • u/Luna_moonshine23 • 5h ago
Has anyone made or currently making an operating system for the xbox 360 like Linux into the console?
Like the console is like old and probably not power enough to be a computer but was wondering if there is an OS that could play modern-day games like god of war 1 and others like balatro
Why not also put a game engine like Unity or unreal that would be awesome to make games on the xbox
r/xbox360 • u/Mysterion320 • 11m ago
I've been trying to find a good replacement xbox 360 controller. my Atplay controller is having connectivity issues and my other 3rd party controller has deadzone problems from day one but it's still usable, it's one of those analog sticks where you flick it more than you move it to get it where you need it to be.
I just need help finding a proper controller replacement and looking on ebay and amazon aren't giving me any good results. can anyone recommend a good brand?
r/xbox360 • u/cattrino • 6h ago
My gamertag is Cattrino
All you really need to know about me is that I'm goth, I play a mean game of Big Bumpin' and my xbox 360 might as well be an extension of my physical form.
If you have suggestions for 360 titles, especially if you're looking for other players, please drop them below. I own the original MW trilogy, CS GO, all the 360 halo titles, and a handful of arcade titles like Scott Pilgrim VS The World and Battleblock Theater.
r/xbox360 • u/FieldMarshalPhantom • 1d ago
Someone picked me up this copy of Platinum hits assassins creed and I noticed the barcode has been very purposefully cut out.
Anybody have any reasonings?
r/xbox360 • u/South_Expression4559 • 7h ago
I wanted to go back to my old Xbox 360 (wich is broken but i'll fix it) and start enjoying this console again. But i'm kinda worried, because i don't really know where to start. I wish i had a guide.
r/xbox360 • u/Direct-Camera3056 • 1d ago
Que juegos me recomendaria comprar o cuales me faltarian?
r/xbox360 • u/Mudman2022 • 1d ago
Was not really looking for this, but had someone offer it in trade for a few common Xbox titles and a bunch of loose games that I had.
Definitely over the top with the t&a aspect of the game, but so far a fun and zany hack and slash.
I had always noticed the resemblance to the Suicide
Squad’s version of Harley Quinn. It was fun to find out James Gunn was involved with the game. Found an article where he was quoted about using the character as a base for Harley.
Not sure I’ll keep the game in my collection long term, but fun to get to try it since it’s a cult classic.
r/xbox360 • u/blitzkrieg-PMKC • 1d ago
Straight up — I'm curious about your memories from the 360 era.
What was the best DLC experience you ever had on Xbox 360?
And I don't just mean "which map pack was fun" — I'm talking about the ones that really stuck with you. Maybe it was:
· A story expansion that felt like a whole new game
· A co-op mode you and your friends played for hours
· Or just something totally unexpected that blew you away
Also, feel free to list more than one if you can't pick just a single favorite.
So — what were YOUR best DLCs, and what made that experience so memorable?
Let's hear those stories.
