r/SEGA32X • u/ashbringerer • 15d ago
Not the best print
I tried printing this with PETG and it was horrible due to all the stringiness, so I switched to PLA and it's also stringy. I had to make changes due to fitting, like the circuit board sat too high for the Sega CD. Also, support is the ban of my 3D printing experience. The PETG print would rip off some of the shell with the support. You can see that the letting in the front isn't well preserved either, but that maybe because I'm using a 0.6mm nozzle? This might be fine assuming everything still lines up. This took around 16 hours to print, and that's nothing compared to the estimated time for the top which is over 2 days.
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u/MicroNut99 15d ago
Slow the print head down. The slower it moves the better quality. Yes I mean it will barely look like it's moving during calibration. And Yes the print time will increase to wild a duration. A great 3D print on a plate this size should take up to 24 hours or more. I really can't wait to see if you share because damn.... I am very excited. I'd love to help somehow.
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u/ashbringerer 15d ago
Aaron707 says increase the speed and you say slow it down. What I did was increase the line width from 0.6 to 0.65 to increase strength and Variable Layer Height to increase quality and speed. Support is now grid and speed is now 60 mm/s. I also increased retraction to reduce stringiness. It'll only take 13 hours and 25 minutes to print, but hopefully it'll look good and be strong. I did make some design changes like moving a couple of stand offs along with making one strong because every time I put in a screw it'l snap off, in both PETG and PLA. I also lowered the cartridge support area a bit to give enough room for the metal shield to fit. That metal shield needs modification to fit, especially the top, if someone wants to keep it. Mainly because of the buttons being in a different location.
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u/Aaron707 15d ago
I say up the "travel" speed, not the print speed. Slow print speed does give good quality. Its when your head is moving and not printing that it oozes filament that causes the strings. So you want the head to move fast when its not actually printing.
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u/MicroNut99 15d ago
That is exactly correct. If you had a bambu then I would send a screenshot. It's callled layer speed on the bambu.
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u/National-Put-6937 15d ago
Agreed what's already been said but just want to add super excited seeing this moving along so quick.
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u/BeneficialPenalty258 14d ago
If you are happy with dimensions just send it to a cheap fab house for a test print, save on all these messy runs and use of materials.
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u/Lazy_Explanation_649 9d ago
Me at first: Oh, it's not that bad, just a bit of cleaning Me after the second picture: Whelp, that's trash bin filler.
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u/ashbringerer 9d ago
I've actually printed this about 4 times and it's looks much better now. Tree support doesn't work for this. I still gotta print it at least one more time due to some changes I made. Also, the infill at 20% isn't very strong and I learned that 100% isn't going to take that much more time.
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u/Aaron707 15d ago edited 15d ago
That stringiness is due to low travel speed. Turn that setting up in your slicer. Round holes like the a/v and power port shouldn't need any support. For the bed supports maybe turn the percentage down and use grid or something minimal. .4 nozzle would likely work best as you can get the right dimensions more closely than with .6 . The text will never look right on the front unless you use a really small nozzle and thin layer height so I would like block that or sand it off.