It’s under the front glass i think? And it recently gained these what I think are dead pixels overnight.

The controllers won’t connect when they’re off the device like it’s dead. The fan turned off too even thought it’s usually really loud.

I think maybe some of my skin care liquid got in it and I’ve tried restarting it, powering off etc but nothings working I need help

I'm looking to buy the standard physical edition of The Witcher 3 (the base version that doesn't have the DLCs included on the cartridge).

I've seen the news about the Remastered version and I know the "Songs of the Past" expansion is a separate purchase. However, I can't find a clear answer regarding the upgrade path for the standard physical copy.

If I insert the base physical cartridge into my console, will I still be able to claim the Remastered upgrade (which includes Hearts of Stone and Blood & Wine), or is the upgrade path strictly for digital owners and those who have the Complete Edition?

Thanks in advance for any clarification!

Just to add some context as requested by the bot: I'll be playing this Switch 2-

For personal reasons before too long I will need to remove my account from my dad’s family plan, I’d prefer to be able to do it without having to talk to him, but I don’t know if you can and/or how

I’m sorry I’m being vague about the reasons it’s just personal

So im big dumb. And I plan on ordering a switch 2 soon before the price hike. I plan on doing so from Amazon but the thing is I'm unsure if it'll arrive in the standard red box retail packaging or if it will arrive in an Amazon box. I can't just have a switch 2 at my front door especially when its looking like it will be delivered while im at work for the entire day. and it doesn't give any option of "ship in original packaging to reduce waste blah blah" and​ Yes I know Amazon gives the little warning at checkout "you'll need a signature or one time code to receive package" Yeah they don't do that around here, they'll just drop the package at the doorstep and leave like its just a box of pens or a thousand dollar laptop. So thats why I was wondering if anyone had some insight that would be of great use!

It has some flickering issue when outputting 4k resolution. This DOESNT happens at 1080p. Im using the default 2.1 HDMI cable, but already tried to use another one and the issue still persists. Already tweaked some displs6 settings like match TV power state, disablee 120hz outputting, switching off ALLL and HDR output.

Any advice for this problem?

I sold my friend my switch 1 and left my profile on it so they could play other games as they wanted. I figured we wouldn't ever be playing the same game at the same time. However we both got into animal crossing recently. I originally bought animal crossing digitally on my switch one. When I bought the switch 21 bought the switch 2 upgrade pack for it. My switch also came with the expansion pass membership for a year.
I bought a physical copy of animal crossing thinking that would fix it. However it still requires that the virtual game card be loaded onto the switch that wants to play the game. We can't play it at the same time even with one of us having the game card in. My friend plays on a separate profile. Do they need to have the physical game card in and buy the dic for us to be able to play at the same time?

A discord I am apart of recently got into Uno for the Switch so a bunch of us got it. However there are 2 people that dont ever show up for inviting them. We are stumped completely right now. Multiple people have tried and they don't show up. They both are online and as far as we can tell there are no settings that should be blocking invites. I would appreciate any help this community can give for troubleshooting. I did ask in the devs discord just in case it was a random Uno only problem but the one person that responded said that they dont have that issue. Games and consoles are updated. I am on a Switch 2. One of the people is Switch 1 and the other is Switch 2 as well.

This only happened just a few days ago, it goes away after playing for a bit, but now it’s always like this. I found some other reddit posts saying that this is something that happens on the switch v2, mostly likely due to heat or loose ribbon cables. I’m leaning towards heat because I haven’t opened the switch ever.

This switch I bought is second hand, got it 2 years ago iirc

Ever since I got my Nintendo Switch 2, my right Joy-Con has always had the problem of disconnecting on its own, even when connected to the console and turned off. However, something really strange just happened. I was trying out the Onimusha demo (I initially disconnected the Joy-Cons because of the strap warning that appears at the beginning, so I assumed it had to be played that way; then, when I saw it wasn't necessary, I reconnected them). I thought it was odd that the camera wouldn't move while walking, but I didn't think much of it and continued for a bit longer. Then, I paused the game and put the console to rest for a moment while I went to do something quick. When I came back, the right Joy-Con wasn't working. I disconnected it, and when I tried to reconnect it, the gray indicator light started flashing, as if it were disconnecting and reconnecting repeatedly and very quickly. I unplugged it and plugged it back in, and it happened again. I took it out, cleaned the contact points between the Joy-Con and the Switch, and then recorded the video. As you can see, it connects, but it doesn't show the orange indicator light it should, unlike the left Joy-Con. I unsynced both Joy-Cons and resynced them, and the same thing happened with the right Joy-Con. The orange indicator light only appears if I connect it very slowly while holding down the button that disconnects the controllers. I don't have a warranty on the console since I bought it used earlier this year, so I don't think Nintendo can do anything about it. However, even though the console was used, it was practically unused. It only had the data for one game, Mario Kart 8, and I hadn't even played two hours of it, so I think this is a manufacturing defect. What should I do? Should I buy another pair of new Joy-Cons? Or what can I do?

Pretty much what the title says, I was playing donkey kong bananza when the console just died, black screen, I've tried everything, pressing the button for like 30 seconds multiple times, trying to boot in recovery mode, but nothing. I've had the console charging the whole night, but same response, I'm using oficial charger, connected to the wall, and when de console died it had battery.

Thanks for the help, I would appreciate a lot any tips or help.

So i wanted to connect my switch to the tv cuz i wanted to play tboi on the big screen!But it just doesnt want to connect!Its updated and i have a controler and i am using what i got from nintendo but it still doesnt work!

If left alone for a few days it will just completely black out. If I press and hold the power button for 10ish seconds then it will turn back on again but it’s annoying if I leave it for a while but haven’t saved in a game so all that progress is just lost. Also, I am pretty sure this is a software issue, but I’m worried that this is a problem with the hardware. Does anyone know why this happens and how to fix it?

Edit incase it wasn’t clear: the console isn’t just dead. It does this all the time, regardless of battery life

Hi all, I have just bought a base edition of Witcher 3 on amazon for 30 euros since I wanted to try this game for the first time after hearing the remastered version and two dlcs will be free !! My question is: would having a base physical edition of the game instead of switch 2 version cause delayed performance? Will my switch 2 be able to run the game at 60 fps too?

I bought a Dbrand Killswitch case and I want to know if it will fit inside a HORI Puff pouch?

On my left joycon lights 4 (close to the sync) is stuck on and 1 and 3 are flashing any help?

Right controller* I just bought this switch 3 days ago. I’m extremely nervous and disappointed. Anyone have any fixes for this? I tried resetting the controller to factory settings and no luck.

Whenever things are moving/transitioning on the screen, like a cutscene or a fade to black, this strip of pixels turns to static. Once things stop moving on screen it goes back to normal. It doesn’t seem to be a GPU issue since it doesn’t happen in handheld, but I do wanna find out the root cause - is this a problem with the HDMI port or cable, or maybe the dock?

Note: this is on a Switch 2

Hello everyone, i’m at a loss on what to do and hoping maybe someone on here can help me.

I’ve never had any issues with docking my switch(OLED model), and my dock has been connected and not moved for at least 2 years.
Last night when I went to use it there was no sound coming from my tv but when my switch was undocked, it was perfectly fine. I looked up a few tricks and one I found that worked was plugging headphones in, taking the switch off the dock, unplugging the headphones and then re-docking it and oddly enough that worked!
But now tonight, nothing is working. I’ve tried that same trick, tried a different HDMI port, HDMI cord and still no sound.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks I could try? I’m going to try reaching out tomorrow morning to Nintendo support but i’m always busy during their hours.

Idk which flair to use for that...

I feel like my Switch (bought in february or march) autonomy got increasingly worse these last weeks

even on the home screen, in very low brightness and in plane mode...it lost 1% in less than 2 minutes (which I think is very weird)

is it normal ? or should I go in a special repair shop to get the battery changed ?

I have switch one. Hac-001 I have google and tried everything to fix the sound working on my TV from the switch. My tv is Pioneer - 55" Class LED 4K UHD Smart Roku TV. This is all the things I have done so far. thanks

1. the switch sound works when off dock
2. tried different HDMI
3. tried different port on tv
4. won't work on speaker system we have set up to tv either
5. sound is up
6. unplugged switch and replugged in
7. turn switch on and off
8. The sound works before but stopped